Yes, thanks. I've been looking at those as well as the Mikunis. Still not sure which way I'll go as there are aspects of each that I like. That being said, as a novice in this game I haven't much to go on. I imagine that those of you who have built these motors for a long time develop your preferences from experience. I suppose either one will work for me as long as I get the fit right and the jetting set correctly.
1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project
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speedrattle
Well-Known Member
i have preferences, but i try new stuff too. i use keihin FCRs on one machine, just as an example
theyre huge and can cause fitment issues if you want to use extensions
but i made them work eventually
these are really nice carburetors except that as they come theyre hard to fit an air cleaner to. that not the case with either an amal premier or a mikuni. im bringing them up just to point out that there is no one answer to the question.
theyre huge and can cause fitment issues if you want to use extensions
but i made them work eventually
these are really nice carburetors except that as they come theyre hard to fit an air cleaner to. that not the case with either an amal premier or a mikuni. im bringing them up just to point out that there is no one answer to the question.
That is a serious looking piece of machinery! I'm sure I'd have difficulty with fitment with the keihins. I appreciate the exposure to the differences. Nice looking bike. I'm curious about the origin of the oil tank as well as the oil filter.i have preferences, but i try new stuff too. i use keihin FCRs on one machine, just as an example
theyre huge and can cause fitment issues if you want to use extensions
but i made them work eventually
these are really nice carburetors except that as they come theyre hard to fit an air cleaner to. that not the case with either an amal premier or a mikuni. im bringing them up just to point out that there is no one answer to the question.
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
the oil tank is just a lowbrow customs piece for choppers.
i cobbled up th eoil filter from some exhaust pipe clamps and a remote filter mout. cost about 25 bucks.
this is nota street legal bike, so what works best is what goes on. no restoration or originality here.
the keihins are used on nortons as a performance modification, and also on hinkley triumphs. theyre very expensive and don't offer anything for street use that a different carburetor would do more easily. but they have accellerator pumps, so theres good throttle response. while stuff like this would fit on your machine for sure, i would suggest following the path of least resistance to get your bike up and on the road. there's all sorts of time available to experiment with other options.
i cobbled up th eoil filter from some exhaust pipe clamps and a remote filter mout. cost about 25 bucks.
this is nota street legal bike, so what works best is what goes on. no restoration or originality here.
the keihins are used on nortons as a performance modification, and also on hinkley triumphs. theyre very expensive and don't offer anything for street use that a different carburetor would do more easily. but they have accellerator pumps, so theres good throttle response. while stuff like this would fit on your machine for sure, i would suggest following the path of least resistance to get your bike up and on the road. there's all sorts of time available to experiment with other options.
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Thanks for this advice. Yes, I'd like to get it running easiest. Today a work colleague mentioned that since I was needing new carburetors anyway, that I might consider a 2 into 1 manifold and change to a single carb setup. I've read about this a bit in some forums, although most doing this seem to change the head. Have you any experience with this and would you know a vendor who might sell this kind of manifold? Thank you.the oil tank is just a lowbrow customs piece for choppers.
i cobbled up th eoil filter from some exhaust pipe clamps and a remote filter mout. cost about 25 bucks.
this is nota street legal bike, so what works best is what goes on. no restoration or originality here.
the keihins are used on nortons as a performance modification, and also on hinkley triumphs. theyre very expensive and don't offer anything for street use that a different carburetor would do more easily. but they have accellerator pumps, so theres good throttle response. while stuff like this would fit on your machine for sure, i would suggest following the path of least resistance to get your bike up and on the road. there's all sorts of time available to experiment with other options.
Twin carb 650 (or pre T140E 750), you have to change the head, because it is the head casting itself that angles the twin carbs and air filters to clear the sidepanel and oil tank.
It is 500's that you can just change the manifold(s), as the head has parallel inlet ports, it is the twin carb manifolds that have the bend to angle the carbs and air filters to clear the sidepanel and oil tank.
Curiously, 650 single carb (and TR7RV?) heads - that also have parallel inlet ports - at least one of the US importers used to sell a bolt on manifold to convert to twin carbs.
T140E heads have parallel inlet ports - the Co-op modified the TR7RV head to take two Amal Mk2 Concentric carbs, which can be mounted side by side, which the Mk1 could not on the 650/750 twin inlet port spacing.
OK, it is quite crazy (in a good way) that you know so much detail about these machines. I am looking at my notes and it was a 500 that my colleague had the 2 into 1 manifold change. Thanks for keeping me on a good path.
Rudi, I'm trying to figure out the year of my forks - again. When you say, "measure carefully between fork legs' horizontal centres," I am not sure the location of the horizontal centres - so if you can help this novice I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
OK Rudi, I think I figured it out. If I were to measure the distance between the centers of the top fork nuts, this would be the horizontal distance. If this is the case the fork on the bike is a 69, 6-3/4 inches and the extra fork is pre 69, 6-1/2 inches.
Speedo and Tach for 1967-1969 Bonneville - is there a way to install a digital speedometer and tachometer for a unit twin 67-60 vintage? I am wondering it anyone has installed a digital tachometer and speedometer, or a combination speedo/tach, on a vintage Triumph. I am not looking for a vintage look necessarily, just wondering if this is something that can be done - and if so what kind of work does it entail? Thanks.
Digital copies of Smiths (and others) speedos and tachos, Smiths grey face as fitted originally.
Speedhut.
Although neither of the above require electrics to be 'negative ground', other digital gauge makes might.
HT suppression will be required (when required, I prefer resistor plugs to plug caps).
From what I read on other forums about the Speedhuts, wires from sensors to gauges need careful routing and much fiddling to prevent electro magnetic interference.
Thank you Rudi. I'll take a look at the Smiths products - as well as get some information on the grounding and wiring needs in order to make these function properly.
So, I decided that the bike needed a full rebuild. After taking a closer look, and seeing more corrosion, noticing that there were some missing and loose fasteners - and knowing that ultimately I wanted to know the condition of what I will be riding - I removed the engine today. I used Glenn's Triumph book and some other assorted videos to get me through. I was on my own, so ended up wrestling the motor a bit before it came out of the frame. I've got to clean it up a bit on the outside and then will continue the teardown. When I took the exhaust off, there was a lot of rust in there.
I've seen a LOT worse.
You should have left the engine in place to knock off the main hardware while you still have the leverage of the frame holding the engine still.
Oh well...
Guess I’ll learn as I go, but thanks for the tip. I’ve got a stand to put the engine on that should help. Any more tips before I start breaking it down? Thanks.
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
that glenns book is very good for some things but you still need a factory manual and parts book. free download from kyle at CBS
https://www.classicbritishspares.com/pages/workshop-service-and-repair-manuals
https://www.classicbritishspares.com/pages/free-triumph-bsa-norton-parts-books
the original books are sometimes problematic, because they didn't update parts images, they won't contain the service bulletins, and an occasional procedure is aspirational, but they are the first place you should look for information. then go to third party publications for your second opinions.
https://www.classicbritishspares.com/pages/workshop-service-and-repair-manuals
https://www.classicbritishspares.com/pages/free-triumph-bsa-norton-parts-books
the original books are sometimes problematic, because they didn't update parts images, they won't contain the service bulletins, and an occasional procedure is aspirational, but they are the first place you should look for information. then go to third party publications for your second opinions.
Wrap your drive chain around the engine drive sprocket and cram it in place when it comes time to remove the drive sprocket nut. Then, take an impact gun to it to loosen it off.
Or, if your chain is old and you'll be replacing it, wrap it around the sprocket and clamp it with vice grips. Turn it "forward" till the vice grips come up against the case then hit it with the air gun.
So yes, there are a few more publications I need. I have the Glenn's and an old Clymers presently.
I've got to check my chain out for wear. I saw this technique of wrapping the chain around the sprocket to remove the nut on a lowbrow customs utube video. I don't have an impact gun, so may need to ad lib. Thank you.
