Some progress on my Rickman build. So I've got the bottom end finished and installed the engine in the frame. Waiting to put on the top end just because it makes installing it a bit easier with having to move the engine a bit for alignment. It took a lot of adjusting and filing and some drilling to get the engine mounts, engine plates, etc. to align properly with the frame. Also needed to pay attention to the rear hub/wheel for alignment. I'm using a BSA quick detach hub for the rear and am having to alter the center boss of the brake plate to get clearance for chain alignment. I finally received the axle from Adrian Moss at Rickman. The Royal Mail was hacked a couple of months ago so it took 2 months for the delivery to happen. There is a lot more fitting on this build than I first thought!
Rickman Triumph Project
- Thread starter Sundance
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So . . . trouble with my rear wheel alignment. On my Rickman build I'm using a BSA QD crinkle hub. I've had an axle made to fit the Rickman swing arm. I am trying to get it all to fit and have the rear wheel centered. I had to machine off part of the rear brake plate to get the sprockets close to alignment. Now putting it all together it looks like the wheel does not center, it is too far to the right. I am wondering if I have the wrong rear sprocket, perhaps there is another that has a cut out and overlaps the brake drum a bit. If this were so, I could machine off a bit more of the brake plate. Or, I am wondering if the wheel was built improperly? The wheels with this frame I bought were not directly from Rickman. So I've built some bicycle wheels and know you have to offset the hubs a bit to make sure the sprockets line up. Perhaps this rear wheel was built
without taking that into consideration? Or I may be missing something else. Thank you for comments!
That is beautiful!
Thanks, still needing a lot of work.
So I think I know the problem with the wheel not centering in the swingarm. I got in touch with the previous owner of the frame and wheels and found out he built the wheels. However I believe that when he built the rear wheel he centered it on the hub, but without the brake drum and brake plate attached (since this hub is a quick detachable hub and comes apart). So, remembering from my bicycle wheel building days, when I built a rear wheel, I had to build it so it centered on the hub including the freewheel (sprockets). Therefore, the left spokes are a bit shorter than the right side spokes, allowing for the rim to center on the entire rim and freewheel. So on this BSA hub wheel, that is not the case. You can see in the attached photo that the wheel is not centered to include the whole hub and sprocket. Anyway if any of you wheel experts can comment on building motorcycle wheels and the offset issue that would be appreciated. If this is the case, I may try to see if there is enough play in the spokes to adjust it to center the rim without needing to get another set of spokes and such. Cheers!
If you don’t have the original offset dimensions you might need to calculate what they are. Following.
I found this article, it’s pretty interesting and part two seems to cover your issue with the offset.
https://tro.bike/motorcycle-maintenance/wheels/spoke-wheel-lacing-offset-runout/I read part one too and if it was laced properly you might just need to follow the linked guidelines. However, some appropriate type wheel stands and gauges seem advisable.
https://tro.bike/motorcycle-maintenance/wheels/spoke-wheel-lacing-offset-runout/I read part one too and if it was laced properly you might just need to follow the linked guidelines. However, some appropriate type wheel stands and gauges seem advisable.
Thanks for the comments - they helped me get the Rear Wheel Alignment fixed!
So, I was able to get my rear wheel alignment fixed. It seems the PO of this project built the wheels, however as this is a BSA Quick Detach hub, I believe he built the wheel without the brake, sprocket and brake plate, so he built it without the proper offset for this swingarm. Fortunately I was able to move the rim over to the left enough, by tuning the spokes, to get it aligned properly and keeping the sprocket alignment with the engine sprocket. Thanks for all the advice on this issue!
So, I was able to get my rear wheel alignment fixed. It seems the PO of this project built the wheels, however as this is a BSA Quick Detach hub, I believe he built the wheel without the brake, sprocket and brake plate, so he built it without the proper offset for this swingarm. Fortunately I was able to move the rim over to the left enough, by tuning the spokes, to get it aligned properly and keeping the sprocket alignment with the engine sprocket. Thanks for all the advice on this issue!
Absolutely awesome! Looks good!
Head and Cylinder Clearance Issue. So I thought after getting the rear wheel aligned I'd put the rest of the engine together. Got the pistons and cylinder on and was working on attaching the head and working out pushrod spacers . . . when I found that I have way to much clearance between the cylinder top and head!.
This head is a TR6 head that the PO purchased and had the valves done, etc., including as I look closer, having the top and bottom surfaced. I have the old style pushrod tubes and seals, and when putting this together with the smallest push rod washers on both top and bottom, I still get about 1/8 inch clearance between the head and cylinder, way to much to compress because I think I shold have about .030 clearance there including the copper gasket.
So I am not sure how to fix this. It would seem that what I need are shorter pushrod tubes.
I imagine someone out there has had this issue and I appreciate any help - again.
This head is a TR6 head that the PO purchased and had the valves done, etc., including as I look closer, having the top and bottom surfaced. I have the old style pushrod tubes and seals, and when putting this together with the smallest push rod washers on both top and bottom, I still get about 1/8 inch clearance between the head and cylinder, way to much to compress because I think I shold have about .030 clearance there including the copper gasket.
So I am not sure how to fix this. It would seem that what I need are shorter pushrod tubes.
I imagine someone out there has had this issue and I appreciate any help - again.
Engine case numbering issue - so when I got this engine, T120R DU45678, I realized I had a 1967 engine. The primary cover was not on the machine but included in the parts. Now putting it together, The engine cover hex bolts that fit on the timing side do not fit on the primary side cover. I notice on the bottom of the cases that the primary side case has the numbers 433, and the timing side case has the number 926. So, I'm not sure where to find what these numbers refer to, but I am thinking that the timing side engine case might be from a different year, and different engine than the primary side case - thereby perhaps meaning the cover hex bolts are likely different thread types.
The hex bolts I have, and that fit on the timing side covers, are 20TPI, so since these don't fit on the primary cover, can I assume what I need here are the 26TPI bolts? Thanks for any comments. I didn't expect this issue!
The hex bolts I have, and that fit on the timing side covers, are 20TPI, so since these don't fit on the primary cover, can I assume what I need here are the 26TPI bolts? Thanks for any comments. I didn't expect this issue!
Is there a shop manual available for the engine that has parts numbers?
Not able to link the post in @Sundance's thread in another forum but the explanation might be useful here for reference.
The numbers on the crankcase castings are not part numbers but the numbers that identified the engines for two purposes during building. The plurals are because @Sundance's crankcase castings left Meriden as parts of two different engines.
Left and right crankcase castings were bolted together for boring the crankshaft, camshafts, mainshaft and layshaft holes in each casting so they were in line for the shafts across both castings. The castings were split after boring for cleaning and then engine assembly; the numbers ensured castings that had been machined together were assembled together in the same engine.
The numbers on the castings also identified the engine in the build book before completion. The model code, range code or date code and number were not stamped until the engine was completed; if an engine had to be scrapped during building for any reason, it could be identified in the engine build book but there would not be any gap in the "VIN" on completed engines assembled into bikes.
Rudie, Thanks for this explanation. In my case - ha - I then know the year of my primary side case/casting. Is there any way to know the year of my timing side case from the bottom number on the case? I'd think probably not.
As with your thread in that other forum, I assume "hex bolts", you mean the 1/4" o.d. screws with a hex socket in their heads, that simply pass through the timing cover and gearbox covers, screw into threaded holes in the timing side crankcase? If so, and therefore these are 1/4"-20, they are UNC (as Triumph did not use the corresponding BSW thread on unit engines), that makes the timing side crankcase 69 or later.
The VMCC and TOMCC have the Meriden engine build books; however, even if the timing side crankcase could only be 650, could not be 750, 650 with UNC case threads are 69 to 74; otoh, if it could be a 750 timing side crankcase, you are potentially asking someone to search every engine build book from 69 to 83/84 ...
Does the possibility the shaft holes are not aligned accurately between the two parts of the crankcase concern you?
Regarding the concern of the shaft holes being aligned. Well yes since I've found this out. However this was a running built engine before I tor it apart, so not terribly worried. Also, when putting it together and replacing all bearings and bushings, I had not problem having the pieces fit, such as the crank aligning easly with both case halves. So, at this point I am going ahead with finishing the motor.
Any experience with Ceriani Forks out there? I have 35mm used Cerianis, but I can't seem to find a diagram for them to figure out how to take them apart and refurbish them. I know there are a couple of seals and one or two bushings that can be replaced. I find some diagrams but they don't look like mine. I can't seem to figure out how to get the damper out. I'm pretty sure it comes out from the bottom of the stanchion, and there is a bushing at the bottom of the stanchion preventing i
t from dropping out. There is a snapring holding the bushing in, however the bushing is not coming out easily and it seems the only way to get it out would be to drive it out from the top with a long rod bearing on the top of the damper rod. Thanks for any help with this!
t from dropping out. There is a snapring holding the bushing in, however the bushing is not coming out easily and it seems the only way to get it out would be to drive it out from the top with a long rod bearing on the top of the damper rod. Thanks for any help with this!
My bike hasn't got crankcase matching numbers each side. Presumably one side got damaged. Runs fine. Also presumably, was a shop repair that considered bore.
Yes, I think there are several motors out there like this. Glad it works this way!
