Lordmac
Well-Known Member
That IS good news. Always better to have things in good shape and not cost an arm and an ankle if possible. One always wants their Triumph (or any bike) to be dependable and right, right? The gears look okay?
Rickman Triumph Project
- Thread starter Sundance
- Start date
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Lordmac
Well-Known Member
TRIUMPH MAIN BEARING:
RHP MJ 1 1/8" C3 BALL part number 70-1591
This crankshaft bearing was fitted to all Triumph 500 and 650 Pre-Unit twins on the drive side from 1938 to 1962 and timing side from 1955 to 1971.
Triumph engineers want you to put a C3 clearance bearing on the timing side so when the crankshaft expands from heat it won't cause a "nook-yoo-ler" meltdown of the bearing and race and side cover.
RHP are fairly standard original equipment bearings, BUT, they cost more than, say, Fafnir or SKF or other big-name manufacturer worldwide, I have found.
Thanks Lordmac on the bearing advice. The original gears look good, no chips and not much wear. I got the new mainshaft and it is much better than the original so will be using that now. I'm not sure if I need to replace any transmission bushings with the new/used shaft I have. I've already needed to replace some cam bushings as there was too much play, especially in the intake cam bushes.
suzook12
Well-Known Member
Hi Sundance, I would be tempted to send that to Abom79 (youtube machine shop) and get him to spray metal repair that. Worth an ask, then you'd have a known good spare
I've never heard of that. I will get in touch. Thanks!
suzook12
Well-Known Member
Quite a common process, used in industry for repaing bearing journals etc, used in automotive for repairing cranks etc
I'm putting my cases together and an having a bit of difficulty in remembering where the various studs go in each case before assembling. It may be I am missing a stud or something like that. This is a 1967 T120R. Is this the correct placement, 2 studs in the primary side case on the aft end, and two studs in the timing side case on the outside for the transmission case. I thought there might have been another stud somewhere and can't quite tell from the parts manual what goes where. Thanks for any help!
I believe I figured out the problem. The PO of this engine used a stud in place of the #43 bolt (from the parts book), which is what confused me. So when taking the engine apart I did not have the #43 bolt, but instead 2 of the #4 studs. Now I am wondering if I can go ahead and put it together with the two #4 studs, as it doesn't seem to have any clearance problems. Thanks for your comments!
Pressure relief valve - So I was cleaning some of the parts from this engine and took the pressure relief valve apart and found that it was missing the piston, everything else was there but no piston. So I am wondering if anyone knows what would be the consequence of running an engine with the pressure relief valve missing the piston? Thanks if you have an idea!
Rickman gearing. So I am trying to figure out what size front and rear sprockets to use on my Rickman build. This is a standard Triumph T120 engine, rebuilt. What I've got for front sprockets are an 18 and a 19 tooth. For the rear I've got a 49 and 60 tooth. I'mm planning on using this mainly for trails and fire roads and a bit on the street. I'd appreciate any advice on how to set up this gearing. I'm ok with getting different sprockets - I just have these now. Thanks.
suzook12
Well-Known Member
Are you using a std rear wheel? When building streetfighters where invariable everything ended up with GSXR 3 spokes, I used to work out the ratio of the original sprockets and divide the wheel/tyre circumference by that number. Then divide the circumference of the new rear with the same number to see how close it was, then work it with different available ratios to get as close as possible. Once there you have a known starting point and can figure where you want your gearing to go accordingly..... Sounds worse than it is
Thanks. I'm using an 18 inch rear and 21 front. On another forum I was directed to this site - pretty good: Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7
suzook12
Well-Known Member
Can't access the site as using ad blocker, wary of using sites that don't allow you to use ad blocker......... If it works, then cool
I'm putting my Primary together now and I noticed on the cover plate (for the final drive) that on the inside of the plate is a tit. Anyone know what this is for and if it has to be oriented in a particular way?
Also, what do folks use to seal this cover plate, I've heard some folks use silicone versus something like yamabond?
Thanks.
Also, what do folks use to seal this cover plate, I've heard some folks use silicone versus something like yamabond?
Thanks.
As I proceeded to put my primary together I noticed in the box of parts from the previous owner is an ELECTREX WORLD LTD, CDI IGNITION, STK-102D. So the PO was going to install this on the Rickman I believe. I am wondering who has any experience with these systems? The instructions say this can be run with or without a battery. It seems this unit does not need to have any part replaced in the timing/points cover, as the spark is generated from the rotor/stator, to the CDI, to the HT-2 coil to the plugs. I'd appreciate any comments on this type of system for my T120R, 1969, motor. Thanks.
The dubious bit is Electrex's combination with just 65W (rpm unstated) for lighting and battery charging, OK perhaps if @Sundance is OK with LED lighting?
Apparently much liked by the classic enduro bunch, who presumably do not enduro after dark?
The other dubious bit that surfaces if you use forum searches is Electrex's customer service is "marmite"*
* @Sundance - if Marmite is not available in the US, it is a yeast extract spread, the taste of which any individual allegedly either likes or hates, no in between; so, if something is described as "marmite", it means people either like it or hate it, no in between.
Check with Electrex if it requires their ignition switch to replace the standard Lucas one?
Got it, thanks.
