You may have to get longer cables, which is not unusual when swapping bars. You can also see if you can gain some cable length by rerouting them.
New Trophy Owner
- Thread starter Jixr
- Start date
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cable length is fine, since my bike is lowered a tad, and the bars are lower than the stock bars, its just mainly it was past midnight when I was working on it, and I was too tired to figure out what was causing the snag. I think its probably just a very tight angle bend somewhere that I need to re-route.
I mainly want to get them all mounted up and to where I can ride on em, see how they feel.
The bars are a bit banged up, and I would need to fully dismount them, paint them, and see if it would be possible to drill the bars to run wiring to allow for the heated hand grips.
But the part i was worried most about was that if the bars would not bang into the tank or the brake/clutch levers would touch the plastics, and ive found just the right angle to keep it working, and its not at an overly awkward position.
I mainly want to get them all mounted up and to where I can ride on em, see how they feel.
The bars are a bit banged up, and I would need to fully dismount them, paint them, and see if it would be possible to drill the bars to run wiring to allow for the heated hand grips.
But the part i was worried most about was that if the bars would not bang into the tank or the brake/clutch levers would touch the plastics, and ive found just the right angle to keep it working, and its not at an overly awkward position.
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sweet, got everything working, the only issue is that the bars are about 1/2" too short, so i'll have to keep an eye out to make sure the corners don't crack or anything.
Rides more like a sport bike, only bad thing I can say is that the fork dive is more pronounced that your leaning more forward. Also lost the heated handlebars, I know with some work I can get them working again, but would need more drilling into the bars and running wire through, but I'll worry about fixing all that come winter.
I think it looks pretty good myself, and was only $30, and can fit the stock bars back on in just a few mins if I ever need to.
Rides more like a sport bike, only bad thing I can say is that the fork dive is more pronounced that your leaning more forward. Also lost the heated handlebars, I know with some work I can get them working again, but would need more drilling into the bars and running wire through, but I'll worry about fixing all that come winter.
I think it looks pretty good myself, and was only $30, and can fit the stock bars back on in just a few mins if I ever need to.
Nice work. 
Our life style can get darn expensive in a hurry! 
I hate moving. Best wishes for your move.
Just mind you don't make it too tight
Jixr,
Your Trophy looks great with the new bars.
Your Trophy looks great with the new bars.
So My tires are only about 1000 miles old, and I ran over a screw on the rear tire, how safe is it to plug it?
( its not in the center, and is in a tread, and I rarely lean the bike over that far anyway )
Everything I've read online says its alright ( but not the best idea ) as long as you keep your speeds in legal limits, you should be alright.
I've plugged a bike tire before ( on the side of the road ) with no problems, but that tire was due for replacement anyway, and the hole was in the center of the tire, but I really don't want to have to buy another $200 tire and throw away one that has plenty of life left in it. as i'm looking at having to do a valve job as soon as I can afford it anyway.
Tips ideas suggestions?
Also, What can I expect a valve check and adjustment to cost from a dealer?
I've never adjusted valves before, but I feel comfortable doing so, I just don't know if it will be worth the huge pain in the ass to try and shim it right, remove the cams, etc.
( its not in the center, and is in a tread, and I rarely lean the bike over that far anyway )
Everything I've read online says its alright ( but not the best idea ) as long as you keep your speeds in legal limits, you should be alright.
I've plugged a bike tire before ( on the side of the road ) with no problems, but that tire was due for replacement anyway, and the hole was in the center of the tire, but I really don't want to have to buy another $200 tire and throw away one that has plenty of life left in it. as i'm looking at having to do a valve job as soon as I can afford it anyway.
Tips ideas suggestions?
Also, What can I expect a valve check and adjustment to cost from a dealer?
I've never adjusted valves before, but I feel comfortable doing so, I just don't know if it will be worth the huge pain in the ass to try and shim it right, remove the cams, etc.
I picked up a nail in the rear of my previous Street Triple, the tyre was almost new. I plugged it and rode another 5,000 km before the bike was sold.
This don't plug argument comes from,
1 people selling tyres and
2 people who think they'll get sued if they look side ways at you.
As long as it's a hole and not a tear plug it and save a $.
This don't plug argument comes from,
1 people selling tyres and
2 people who think they'll get sued if they look side ways at you.
As long as it's a hole and not a tear plug it and save a $.
I agree with Kevin. Now if I were racing, it would be a different story.
Yeah, I've not pulled it out yet, but it looks to be either a screw or a nail ( just have it popped up on the center stand till I can get to it this weekend )
What is the best type of plug? ( all i've used before is the gummy worm looking things you can find at any store )
or should I pop the tire off and try to patch it from the inside. ( i've never pulled a full size tire off a bike without a machine, popping it off would be easy, getting it on and beaded is always the hard part ) I don't have access to a tire machine at this time ( not a free one anyway )
What is the best type of plug? ( all i've used before is the gummy worm looking things you can find at any store )
or should I pop the tire off and try to patch it from the inside. ( i've never pulled a full size tire off a bike without a machine, popping it off would be easy, getting it on and beaded is always the hard part ) I don't have access to a tire machine at this time ( not a free one anyway )
If it were mine, I would plug it and patch it. You will need to re-balance the tire.
yeah, I suppose I'll try to pull the tire and use one of the "plug patch" things that most auto shops will do on car tires. I did notice when I plugged my previous tire, it did leak air, but that was also a road side job using cheap tools. Most of my riding on the bike is to and from work, which is only 15miles or so, and my speeds rarely get above 70, and even when I'm on an open highway, I rarely hit 100+ ( and everything i've read online, no one has said they have slug out plugs/patches, but have a friend of a friend who did )
I also usually always have my backpack with me, which has a tire plug kit, co2 cans, and other tools in it just in case.
In other news, I got quoted anywhere from 3-400 for a valve check/adjustment. i'm really debating on taking it to the shop, but not entirely sure.
Shop:
- 5 mins away from my apartment
- they know what they are doing
- proper tools
- anywhere from $3-400 in labor ( ballpark said 3 - 4.5hrs @ $90 /hr labor )
- only personal time of mine spent is taking the bike to the shop and walking home
Doing it myself:
- I've checked valve clearances and adjusted only on a 2 valve single cylinder bike
- will have to drive 1hour to my parents to use our shop
- probably a full days job at best
- nearest shop from my parents is another 30mins away ( for buying shims )
- save a little money
- will probably have to order a box of shims or something
- will have to pull the cams ( if they need adjusting )
I see no need to do a full service check on it, everything he rattleded off on the phone was something I can do, have already done, and basically was stuff that non mechanically inclined people like to hear to make them feel good.
But i'm not even sure if it is the valves or not, only symptoms i'm thinking is whats causing it is the low ticking noise. ( no backfires, and seems to run okay, no smokey exhaust ( from burning oil through the valves )
Also, I want to adjust the cam chain, it could possibly be just needed tightened up. On these bikes, to you tighten the bolt ( clockwise ) to tighen the chain, or do you loosen ( counterclockwise ) to tighten the chain (i've seen it both ways )
Lastly, I locked up the rear tire again while riding, I'm not sure if these bikes are just really nose heavy, as I feel like i've not applied too much force, and It could possibly be that with my 140lbs of self combined with the new riding position of the bike could make the rear tire very light under a combo of front fork dive just takes all the weight off the rear. BUT, this also happened during the ride that got the nail in my tire, could they be connected or just a seperate incident?
I also usually always have my backpack with me, which has a tire plug kit, co2 cans, and other tools in it just in case.
In other news, I got quoted anywhere from 3-400 for a valve check/adjustment. i'm really debating on taking it to the shop, but not entirely sure.
Shop:
- 5 mins away from my apartment
- they know what they are doing
- proper tools
- anywhere from $3-400 in labor ( ballpark said 3 - 4.5hrs @ $90 /hr labor )
- only personal time of mine spent is taking the bike to the shop and walking home
Doing it myself:
- I've checked valve clearances and adjusted only on a 2 valve single cylinder bike
- will have to drive 1hour to my parents to use our shop
- probably a full days job at best
- nearest shop from my parents is another 30mins away ( for buying shims )
- save a little money
- will probably have to order a box of shims or something
- will have to pull the cams ( if they need adjusting )
I see no need to do a full service check on it, everything he rattleded off on the phone was something I can do, have already done, and basically was stuff that non mechanically inclined people like to hear to make them feel good.
But i'm not even sure if it is the valves or not, only symptoms i'm thinking is whats causing it is the low ticking noise. ( no backfires, and seems to run okay, no smokey exhaust ( from burning oil through the valves )
Also, I want to adjust the cam chain, it could possibly be just needed tightened up. On these bikes, to you tighten the bolt ( clockwise ) to tighen the chain, or do you loosen ( counterclockwise ) to tighten the chain (i've seen it both ways )
Lastly, I locked up the rear tire again while riding, I'm not sure if these bikes are just really nose heavy, as I feel like i've not applied too much force, and It could possibly be that with my 140lbs of self combined with the new riding position of the bike could make the rear tire very light under a combo of front fork dive just takes all the weight off the rear. BUT, this also happened during the ride that got the nail in my tire, could they be connected or just a seperate incident?
I do most of the servicing of my bikes - except the valves. I don't have the proper place to do the valves. I can check them; but they need adjusting, I take it to an independent shop.
One time I had a screw in a tyre, I prepared my plug kit, when the screw was pulled out it hadn't gone into the tyre far enough to let air out, job done, all that I did was keep an eye on the pressure for a few days.
As far as what kind to use, I'd stick with the "gummy worm" if the hole is small and it's hard to get the cleaning up tool into the hole. If the tool is a loose fit in the hole then an internal "patch/plug" will be required. It's hard to tell what to do if the hole is big, it will be internal "patch/plug" or new tyre.
The front fork dive can be improved a LOT by installing progressive springs or putting a 1 - 1.5 inch piece of PVC pipe in there as a spacer.
I'd be careful too on the chain tightening.....they were made to sound that way. If anything just replace the tensioner.
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
I'd be careful too on the chain tightening.....they were made to sound that way. If anything just replace the tensioner.
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
