So I think i've figured out a way where I can save my exhaust, Basically i'm just going to cut them down and shorten it, unfortunately i don't have the right welding equipment to weld Stainless steel, so i would have to find a fab shop that can do it for me. It would make it much louder, but I figure if i put the removable baffles in it shouldn't be straight pipe loud, while still keeping a little bit of needed back pressure.
New Trophy Owner
- Thread starter Jixr
- Start date
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I think I would attempt to pull out the dent as much as possible.
What can you lose? If that doesn't work you can always shorten it as above.
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What can you lose? If that doesn't work you can always shorten it as above.
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Good to hear that you got a headlight and the low beam sorted.
alright, got the front faring stay up, but here is the kicker, I can't get my headlights to work at all now. Due to how the wiring is all wrapped around the stay, I had to unhook everything to get the new one on, and when I reconnected everything, I cant get the headlights working. Unfortunately the manual does not help much, and i've not found much online to help me out.
It seems the trophy uses 3 different relays, a 3 prong for the blinkers, and then there are 4 and 5 pin relays, and i'm not sure which ones to use for the headlights.
I've tried swapping them all around to see if I can get lucky and find a combo that works, but so far no luck.
Also, someone stole one of my Staintunes exhaust cans out of the back of my truck, but oddly left my front wheel stand and other things, so its probably JB welded to the back of some punks honda civic right now.
It seems the trophy uses 3 different relays, a 3 prong for the blinkers, and then there are 4 and 5 pin relays, and i'm not sure which ones to use for the headlights.
I've tried swapping them all around to see if I can get lucky and find a combo that works, but so far no luck.
Also, someone stole one of my Staintunes exhaust cans out of the back of my truck, but oddly left my front wheel stand and other things, so its probably JB welded to the back of some punks honda civic right now.
I'm confused.....unless an '01 is different than what the '96 and two workshop manuals I have (it shouldn't be):
There is 1 three prong relay for the turn signals.
There is 1 four prong relay for the LO beam.
There is 1 four prong relay for the HI beam.
The two headlight relays are interchangeable.
There are no 5 prong relays on the bike at all.
BTW.....if a certain section of one of the two headlight relays is cooked, it could affect the other one since a portion of the circuit is in a series while the other portion is not.
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There is 1 three prong relay for the turn signals.
There is 1 four prong relay for the LO beam.
There is 1 four prong relay for the HI beam.
The two headlight relays are interchangeable.
There are no 5 prong relays on the bike at all.
BTW.....if a certain section of one of the two headlight relays is cooked, it could affect the other one since a portion of the circuit is in a series while the other portion is not.
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and thats where i'm confused. I have a hand full of relays, and I know one is bad ( don't know which specific ) and the replacement headlights and stay both had relays come with them. and when I plug the 5 pin relay into one of the headlight sockets, I can get the 5 pin relay to 'click' when i toggle the headlight beam switch ( but still no lights )
I'm not sure when the manual was published, but one of the relay connectors has 5 wires going into the socket ( which i would obviously think thats where the 5 pin relay goes )
And another reason why the bike got set back again is because my blown motor in my car needed a new headgasket, turbo, some coolant lines, waterpump, timing belt, and a few other things worked on.
There are also some connections that are not used, for other models.
I'll try to get some pictures up and maybe that will help you guys help me sort out the issue.
( dummy check: fuses are good, bulbs are good )
Also, I Think i found out why i was having carb trouble awhile back, there are little rubber boot caps on the carbs, and the #4 cylinder carb the boot is missing, leaving an air leak.
I'm not sure when the manual was published, but one of the relay connectors has 5 wires going into the socket ( which i would obviously think thats where the 5 pin relay goes )
And another reason why the bike got set back again is because my blown motor in my car needed a new headgasket, turbo, some coolant lines, waterpump, timing belt, and a few other things worked on.
There are also some connections that are not used, for other models.
I'll try to get some pictures up and maybe that will help you guys help me sort out the issue.
( dummy check: fuses are good, bulbs are good )
Also, I Think i found out why i was having carb trouble awhile back, there are little rubber boot caps on the carbs, and the #4 cylinder carb the boot is missing, leaving an air leak.
One carb's cap should be missing as that's where the vacuum hose for your fuel petcock attaches.
The manuals I am looking at say the wiring diagram applies to all Trophys 1996 and up.....although one was published in 1999. So there could be a change although I don't know why they'd change the lighting circuit.
PS: some of those disconnected things might be for an alarm system and/or California models
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The manuals I am looking at say the wiring diagram applies to all Trophys 1996 and up.....although one was published in 1999. So there could be a change although I don't know why they'd change the lighting circuit.
PS: some of those disconnected things might be for an alarm system and/or California models
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yeah, on the carb, there is the fuel hose attached to carb 3, but 4 is missing its cap. sticking my finger over it and plugging it the idol smoothed out, so I just need to cap it.
I was in a rush to put the new stay on as I thought it would be an easy job and was hoping to get the bike fixed up so I could ride it out to the race, normally when I do more complicated jobs I take pictures to help me put everything together.
EDIT: my manual was published in 99 as well.
I've also noticed from the crash my rear brake lever, now that i have the lights connected, is still a little stiff as when I let off the rear brake the brake lights are still on.
I was in a rush to put the new stay on as I thought it would be an easy job and was hoping to get the bike fixed up so I could ride it out to the race, normally when I do more complicated jobs I take pictures to help me put everything together.
EDIT: my manual was published in 99 as well.
I've also noticed from the crash my rear brake lever, now that i have the lights connected, is still a little stiff as when I let off the rear brake the brake lights are still on.
OK....yes you need to cap that carb then.
As far as your brake pedal goes....is there any chance in the crash that the brake line got kinked or crushed at all? If the brake line is smooshed your pedal will push fluid to the brakes, yet be slow to allow it to return. Just an idea?
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As far as your brake pedal goes....is there any chance in the crash that the brake line got kinked or crushed at all? If the brake line is smooshed your pedal will push fluid to the brakes, yet be slow to allow it to return. Just an idea?
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I'm getting pretty close to calling it quits on the bike, I have about 10 different relays, and the most I can make it do is make the 5 prong relay click when insterted into the 4 prong relay.
Battery does not seem to be holding a charge either.
The kicker is before I took the front stay off, I had everything working, unplugged everything, put the new one on, and now nothing
- blinker works
- brake light works
- stater works
- dash lights work
- no headlights
I don't think all the relays could be bad, but i don't know what else to check
- bulbs good
- fuse good
- battery fuse good
I'm seriously just thinking of taking it home to let it rust in our garage or selling it off as is. Its been nearly 3 months and i've not rode it an inch.
Battery does not seem to be holding a charge either.
The kicker is before I took the front stay off, I had everything working, unplugged everything, put the new one on, and now nothing
- blinker works
- brake light works
- stater works
- dash lights work
- no headlights
I don't think all the relays could be bad, but i don't know what else to check
- bulbs good
- fuse good
- battery fuse good
I'm seriously just thinking of taking it home to let it rust in our garage or selling it off as is. Its been nearly 3 months and i've not rode it an inch.
This must be getting very frustrating for you, the thing is if you do give up the next guy may just stumble on the fix and you will kick yourself.
Wow I did not know getting the title changed was so expensive 
Well, you have to pay taxes on the bike, and i may or may not have a few late fines i need to take care of....
Idea: I wonder if I pick up some H-4 HID kits if that would solve my headlight problem. CycleGear has a HID kit that cost $100 per bulb, I know they usually have a pretty good return policy, May be worth the gamble to see if I can get them working or not.
Idea: I wonder if I pick up some H-4 HID kits if that would solve my headlight problem. CycleGear has a HID kit that cost $100 per bulb, I know they usually have a pretty good return policy, May be worth the gamble to see if I can get them working or not.
I don't know them but yes it maybe something to try
I don't know about Texas, but in Florida if your bike has not been on the road, there are not late penalties for registration.
In Pennsylvania, if you were given a vehicle, you only pay sales tax on the amount that you paid. You can't "give" a vehicle to another party (only donate it to charity) so you must state a purchase price of at least $1.00. The tax on that is 6 cents (6%) and you don't need to send anything less than $1.00......so in effect there is no sales tax.
You can also own a vehicle and never register it for plates...you just can't ride or drive it on public streets.
There is no such thing as late fees.
To transfer a car or truck title (without plates) from one person to another is $36.00. Motorcycles are only $18.00. They don't care how long you take getting around to doing that. You just don't legally own it until you do.
The problem I have always had with the above is that every time a vehicle is bought and sold, the State requires a sales tax be paid. So if a car is sold 5 times, the State collects a tax on that same car 5 times. I can see sales tax on a brand new car collected once. But collecting it 5-10 times on the same car is robbery.
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You can also own a vehicle and never register it for plates...you just can't ride or drive it on public streets.
There is no such thing as late fees.
To transfer a car or truck title (without plates) from one person to another is $36.00. Motorcycles are only $18.00. They don't care how long you take getting around to doing that. You just don't legally own it until you do.
The problem I have always had with the above is that every time a vehicle is bought and sold, the State requires a sales tax be paid. So if a car is sold 5 times, the State collects a tax on that same car 5 times. I can see sales tax on a brand new car collected once. But collecting it 5-10 times on the same car is robbery.
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