I always get guide blocks AND followers from the dame source, or ensure they are made by the same company. You can try polishing the follower shafts with superfine emery cloth and see if they'll go. And/Or take a skinny pipe that fits in the holes, cut a slit in one end and slip a short length of emery cloth in the slit, chuck it in a drill and give the guide blocks a few passes with a shot of oil. Make sure to thoroughly clean both after each re-work. Shouldn't take much...
That sounds like the good idea that I didn't have - so next time will have to do. So I'll get some experience with reaming. I now notice on the fagengine site that they mention clearances and any manner to ream the blocks will do.
I'd try a local machine shop, let them do it right.
Got it, thanks.
I was hoping not to have to go so far. In a previous post I indicated where one of the cam bushings was buggered up, it looked like when it was last installed the key was pressed into the bush, creating a cut out in the bush. So, as this was/is a learning experience, I replaced all of the cam bushings. While it took me a couple of sets of new bushings, I finally got it right and so I guess my great-grandchildren will get to ride this if gas engines are still legal in the future. I did figure out, finally, which cam gear went where after reviewing my many photos of the disassembly - and so have put them back where they came from and all seems good and the cams and crank are rotating smoothly. Except for rebuilding the wheels, I will have taken everything apart on this bike - at least once!
But are you POSITIVE which keyways you used? They will time differently with reference to the cam lobes.
the intake and exhaust camwheels are the same part, with identical marks. later T140s used letters instead of dots and i dont know about them. but the earlier ones in yours are easy.
the stock camwheel mark is the one on the rim, near the teeth. some nervous nellie added your extra punchmarks near the keyway. that keyway -- the one in line with the punchmark on the rim-- is the one you use to fit your camshafts into the stock position. it should be okay as-is.
you can advance or retard the timing of your camshafts in 4.8-degree increments by holding the camwheels still (conceptually) and rotating the camshaft CCW to retard or CW to advance one keyway at a time. if you choose to do this:
-- you must check the cam timing with a degree wheel to set the camwheels to the correct position at the new timing.
-- the marks on the camwheels will then no longer line up on the idler and you must paint new ones
-- you MUST check the valve to piston clearances and the valve-to-valve interference, as everything will have changed.
but theres no reason to mess with camshaft timing unless youre looking for something very specifically non-stock, so this is just a heads-up.
this is one where i use a different cam timing and had to paint new marks
Yep, new chain
