Stator stud nut problem- So I just got my brand new stator studs and new nuts, nice and shiny. I was adjusting things to get the right clearance between stator and rotor and once it looked good I went to torque the nuts to 20 ft lb. I got to 15 ft lb with the nuts and then when going to 20 the upper left stud nut would not torque, but kept spinning. Stud was fine in the case. So it looks like this brand new nut failed, and just kept spinning. Problem is I can’t get it off the stud now. I tried gripping it with pliers and pulling while I tried to remove it but it stayed. I tried to insert a small blade between the nut and stator to put some pressure and rotated but it wouldn’t some off. I ending up taking the stator off by patiently unscrewing the studs one by one until I could get the stator off - with the stud still attached. So I’m trying to figure out how to get the nut off. I’ve put a vise grip around the stator stud and held the nut, pulling on the vise grips while rotating. Any ideas about how to get this nut off. Obviously I will have to get a new nut. Perhaps I should try to cut the nut off with a Dremel cut off blade. Thanks for any advice. Has anyone ever had this problem with one of these type of nuts that are locking nuts?
1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project
Help Support Triumph Motorcycle Forum:
By the way, I talked with the guys at Classic British Spares, where I purchased the new stator studs and nut. The guy said the stator doesn’t need 15 to 20 lbs, that was too much. Said 10 lbs was enough with a bit of loctite. Of course the manual says 20 lbs. I’d be interested in any one else’s take on this - as well as any other torque setting in the manual that might need to be managed differently. Thanks.
Try wedging a piece of steel, between the nut and stator. It should allow the nut to be turned out if it’s stripped. A metal blade from a scraper might work.
I thought this would work also - and tried it. I got a scraper blade in there and twisted it to put pressure on the nut but it would still not back off any. Still a mystery why I can't get it to back out. Thanks.
Keep the primary cover off until after first start-up and test ride. Just oil the chain before running, then wipe off excess. It will NOT hurt it to run dry till you ensure proper adjustment. I suppose the crankcase pressure might spew a bit at the level holes, but it should be no big deal.
Exhaust pipes installation - I’ve got my exhaust pipes and will need to fabricate or source some brace or hanger. I’m wondering if any of you have experience with this sort of thing? I think it would be ok with just having the exhaust clamps to the head spigots along with another hanger/brace somewhere just aft of the engine. I suppose I could use one of the engine plate bolts as a place to connect a brace or have a brace that clamps to the frame. It seems like there may be some kind of ready made dual pipe fitting that could be used along with a hanger. Anyway I imagine some of you may have done something like this and if so, I would appreciate knowing your experience. Thanks!
Nice!
Exhaust pipe hangers - so I took a couple of EMGO exhaust pipe hangers and modified them a bit to provide support to my upswept pipes. They seem pretty secure now. I think if I had a bit more equipment I could make something a bit more elegant so perhaps in the future I may try something different but this will do for now.
I am getting close to needing to install oil and fuel lines. I’d appreciate any advice about the sizes and type of lines I should use as well as the kind of fasteners/clips that work well. Thanks for any advice!
I am getting close to needing to install oil and fuel lines. I’d appreciate any advice about the sizes and type of lines I should use as well as the kind of fasteners/clips that work well. Thanks for any advice!
I finally got my carburetors and hope to install them shortly. These are the matched, left and right 930 concentric premier alloy body carbs. I am wondering if I should change the jetting of these before I install them and appreciate any advice on this. The box indicates the Main is 200, N/Jet 106, Pilot RJ17, Valve 3. I don’t know what all these numbers mean but sure some of you do. As my bike has the 750 kit on it I am wondering if I need to change out the jets? Thanks for your advice on this.
Also, I ordered a Triumph Inlet Carburetor Mount Set 14-1301 Stiff-Nut Cupped Washer 1970 & On - New. So for some reason I thought I would need these to install my carbs. They seem to be a sort of rubber mount. But from my parts book it looks like the carbs on my bike were installed with just a locking nut. Any advice on using these other stiff-nut cupped washers?
Lastly, I’m working on putting my oil lines together. I installed a choppahead oil tank. I’ve got this alloy rocker oil feed pipe that I am planning to use. So it seems seems like the oil, whether in my feed pipe or the standard feed pipe, somehow flows through the pipes and fills up the space in between the chrome dome nuts and everything else with enough pressure to finally make it into the end of the rocker spindles. Is that how it works? It seems to me with the dome nuts tightened down the oil would no make it to the end of the rocker shafts. Am I missing something here?
Thanks for any assistance!
Also, I ordered a Triumph Inlet Carburetor Mount Set 14-1301 Stiff-Nut Cupped Washer 1970 & On - New. So for some reason I thought I would need these to install my carbs. They seem to be a sort of rubber mount. But from my parts book it looks like the carbs on my bike were installed with just a locking nut. Any advice on using these other stiff-nut cupped washers?
Lastly, I’m working on putting my oil lines together. I installed a choppahead oil tank. I’ve got this alloy rocker oil feed pipe that I am planning to use. So it seems seems like the oil, whether in my feed pipe or the standard feed pipe, somehow flows through the pipes and fills up the space in between the chrome dome nuts and everything else with enough pressure to finally make it into the end of the rocker spindles. Is that how it works? It seems to me with the dome nuts tightened down the oil would no make it to the end of the rocker shafts. Am I missing something here?
Thanks for any assistance!
Well, I had some comments and realize there were other holes in the rocker spindles that allow the oil to flow through the pipes to lubricate the rocker arms.
Now I have a question regarding the setup of the carburetor manifold. How does one determine how far to screw in the manifold? Do you screw it in as far as it will go then set the lock nut - or do you determine to set it at a certain distance and then lock it with the nut. I appreciate any advice.
Now I have a question regarding the setup of the carburetor manifold. How does one determine how far to screw in the manifold? Do you screw it in as far as it will go then set the lock nut - or do you determine to set it at a certain distance and then lock it with the nut. I appreciate any advice.
More advice needed for my carburetor install. So I have new carb manifolds and thanks to a forum member they are now painted with metallic rust-o-leum. I also just received the mounting nuts for the carbs and notice that the studs on the manifolds are too long for the nuts to tighten the carburetors - see photos. So now I am wondering how to manage this. I see there are phenolic spacers available in various thicknesses, like 30mm. I suppose using one of these on each side would allow the nuts to engage the carbs. Any advice on this? Also, if one uses the phenolic spacers how does one use, or not use, gaskets? The carbs have a very thing O-ring. So If I am to use phenolic spacers to get the proper distance for the nuts to engage, where would I need to use gaskets? Thanks for any help.
Your parts book should show you which items, and in which order, to install them (I can't remember).
You will still have to wiggle the carb away from the head to get the nuts started (the inner ones are the most fun).
You will still have to wiggle the carb away from the head to get the nuts started (the inner ones are the most fun).
Thanks GP, I understand needing to wiggle the carb away. I thought I was getting the right part numbers. Perhaps I overlooked this as my bike is a 67 frame and 69 engine and I think, some other odd stuff.
I could use some advice on my carburetor install again. So my tank petcocks impinge on the Amals. I would think this may have happened to others before me and so I aim looking for a good solutions to get this all to fit. I am assuming the carbs should be oriented vertically straight, rather that canted to make room? Thank you for any advice.
Turn the petcocks for lever side facing the back.
Carbs need to be vertical.
Carbs need to be vertical.
Wiring questions. I am beginning to wire my bike and arm asking for advice. I have a headlight (hi/lo beam), tach and speedo with illumination, tail light, and a pazon ignition with a podtronics regulator/rectifier. I’ve got new coils, 2 6 volt, and the coils, and pazon are installed and the bike is timed statically. The lights and gauges has small male bullet type connectors on the wiring. I’m planning on a single point negative ground. So my questions revolve around what type of connectors are good/best to use when connecting all the electrical components. Also, as this seems to be a bit of a challenge for me, any advice on how to approach this, like what to do first, second and so on. I know there is quite a bit on-line about this, but a lot varies. Oh, I am thinking of using a 3 position switch or 2 toggles (one to turn on ignition and brake light, the second to turn on lights). Thanks for any help.
