1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project
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Indexing my transmission and checking it. I am having some difficulty knowing if/when I’ve indexed may transmission properly. I’ve tried it in 1st gear and 4th, according to some methods I read about. However how do I know for sure that it is correct? A couple of times I knew it was not right as there would be one shift, then no more. Since the engine is out of the bike how do I go about checking to see if it is indexed properly? First time for me! Thanks for any help.
Mount the case in a vice and have a friend rotate the mainshaft with a pair of vice-grips gently clamped on with a good wrapping of rag or cardboard.
As it is rotating, shift thru the gears. See if the sprocket rotates accordingly.
Thanks GP, I will give it a try!
e-bay?
of course - forgot to look there!
I’m putting my forks together. I have my original sliders, but most everything else is new - new stanchions, seals, nuts, etc. So when I put the nuts on and work to tighten them, even when very tight I still have some threads showing on the sliders. Is this normal? I’d like to get them fully covered but am not able to at this point. So I’m wondering with the various tolerances with the seals, washers, bushings, etc, if I should give up on this. Perhaps there is enough difference in the new parts that this makes it impossible to get the nut to cover all the threads. I appreciate any advice!
Can't recall that happening. Sounds like the new caps are longer than the originals. A quick side-by-side comparison will show you. You could always CAREFULLY file/grind off however many threads on the end to allow the new cap to screw in that much more... (machining them down would be better)
By Nuts I meant dust excluder nuts - so there may have been some confusion due to my part when describing my issue. So I ended up measuring the inside of the threaded portion of the dust excluder nut to where the slider abuts, and this measurement, along with the thickness of the top bushing and its accompanying washer makes it impossible to not have a few thread showing.
Yes, some have one or two threads showing, some have 5 or 6.
Assemble front and rear, then swingarm.
I gave up on installing those years ago, except on my race bike. If you are a "normal" rider, not doing hard starts, you will never miss them.
I agree. I left them out and put stainless steel bolts in their place just to fill up the holes. I ground the bolt heads into a dome shape to remove any edges that might chafe or cause any wear.
I don't bolt the valve stem down tight but leave them a bit slack to detect any shift in the tire/tube causing the stem to lean - which has never happened.
They've been in there for 20 years with no problems - but of course the tires, tubes and rim tapes have been changed a few times
I was able to install the rim locks - a bit of a challenge but then this is about learning new stuff.I agree. I left them out and put stainless steel bolts in their place just to fill up the holes. I ground the bolt heads into a dome shape to remove any edges that might chafe or cause any wear.
I don't bolt the valve stem down tight but leave them a bit slack to detect any shift in the tire/tube causing the stem to lean - which has never happened.
They've been in there for 20 years with no problems - but of course the tires, tubes and rim tapes have been changed a few times
Help with Cam Followers - I was going to put on my barrel and pistons and head this weekend but ran into some difficulty. I purchased new Kibblewhite tappet blocks from fagengine (Part # 010154) and new inlet cam followers (PN# 70-3059 R) and exhaust cam followers (PN# 70-8801) from The Bonneville Shop. So I installed the blocks and when I got to fitting the cam followers I found they will not fit into the tappet blocks. If I try the fit from the other side they slide in an inch or so, but from the side they need to be installed they go in a 1/4 inch or so and no further. Have any of you had this sort of experience? Thanks.
