Soon, hopefully, I will be installing my new cam bushings, as well as new bearings in my cases. I suppose this will sound like I am a true novice at this (I am), but can anyone explain camshaft and crankshaft float? I’m most interested in making sure that I understand this before installing and reaming my cam bushings. Thanks for any helpful comments.
1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project
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It is likely to cause oil weepage at the top joint, no other issues.
I think I'll keep it like it is, unless I get some fix ideas from whomever is going to rebuild the head. Thanks.
I am going to replace some (or all) of my engine fasteners as well as engine to frame fasteners. I would think using stainless fasteners would be a good idea, however I am wondering if there is any issue with this (stainless to aluminum)? Also, I see replacement fasteners on a number of vintage internet sites, but I’m wondering if some members have comments on the best places to buy these replacement fasteners? Thanks to all.
Use of Stainless fasteners on classic bikes is a topic that ranks just below choice of which oil to use.
You're going to get various divergent replies.
Yes, they make & sell them, plenty of people use them, plenty don't.
You're going to get various divergent replies.
Yes, they make & sell them, plenty of people use them, plenty don't.
OK, thanks. I was just going to ask about oil - Ha.
I picked up my engine cases from Sean at Motorelic (MotoRelic – Motorelic | Custom Motorcycles & Fabrication) here in Northern Virginia. He vapor honed my engine cases, head and rocker boxes. I was considering not having this done since I had cleaned the cases quite nicely, but I’m really pleased with the results! Sean did a great job and he has some very cool builds in progress now.
I then drove my head down the road a bit to Rob at Virginia Vintage Cycle (Virginia Vintage Cycle). He was gracious to take a look at some of my problematic parts, especially my pitted cams and tappets. Looks like I’m in the market for new cams and tappets now as the pitting was too deep to consider then serviceable. Rob went over his head rebuilding process. He also took a look at the place in my head where the head bolt hole breaks through the inside of the head (and is plugged by a steel insert) and says he sees this on a lot of heads and is not a problem the way it is. He was putting several bikes together and offered me several build tips, specifically on a transmission he was installing - which will save me from some mistakes I was probably going to make. All this to say that he was very generous with his time and knowledge. He also has some very cool custom bikes in process as well as restorations and is very busy these days. Glad he could fit me in.
I then drove my head down the road a bit to Rob at Virginia Vintage Cycle (Virginia Vintage Cycle). He was gracious to take a look at some of my problematic parts, especially my pitted cams and tappets. Looks like I’m in the market for new cams and tappets now as the pitting was too deep to consider then serviceable. Rob went over his head rebuilding process. He also took a look at the place in my head where the head bolt hole breaks through the inside of the head (and is plugged by a steel insert) and says he sees this on a lot of heads and is not a problem the way it is. He was putting several bikes together and offered me several build tips, specifically on a transmission he was installing - which will save me from some mistakes I was probably going to make. All this to say that he was very generous with his time and knowledge. He also has some very cool custom bikes in process as well as restorations and is very busy these days. Glad he could fit me in.
Wow! The left side is clean, but the right side is practically pristine.
Oil Drill Way Questions: My 1969 T120R engine had a Routt 750 kit with no oil way in the Cylinder, and my right (timing) side case has a plug in the oil drill way. So it last ran with tappets without the holes for oil passage. The new 750 Cylinder I purchased has the oil drill way. Since I am going to have to replace my old tappets (pitting and scoring) I am going to get the exhaust tappets with the oil hole. My question is about removing/drilling out the plug of the oil way on my timing side case. So, do I drill this out with an appropriate diameter drill bit? Also, how far do I need to drill the hole? Perhaps this will become apparent while drilling?If any of you have done this before I’d appreciate your comments on how to proceed. Once it is drilled, do I then need to install a hollow dowel? Thanks for your comments!
Is that a "before and after" shot, or are those mismatched and apparently different finish case halves?
This is before and after. Very clean!
I finally got some time to install my cam bushings. The cases were very clean. I put the bushings in the freezer for a couple of hours and then installed them with the driver tool sold by Lowbrow customs. Then used the reaming tool for the bushings with the cases bolted together. I fitted the cams and put the cases together and it seems that they are a good fit. Now on to replacing some bearings.
I’m getting ready to reassemble my clutch shock absorber unit with new rubber bits. I’ve also got new screws since the old ones were messed up a bit. I’d appreciate any comments on how to get this together as I’ve read getting the new rubber bits in can be a challenge. Also - what it the recommendation for loctite? I’m assuming a bit of red loctite? Thanks for any advice!
I had it easy because I had a box of spare transmission parts including a mainshaft.
I clamped the mainshaft in a soft jaw vice, slipped the hub & centre bits onto it, then used a clutch holder tool to rotate the outer housing.
Insert 1st rubber, rotate and insert 2nd, rotate & insert 3rd...
Nice to have lots of other parts to make this easy. I was surprised that it came along easily for me. I have a rubber strap wrench that I put around the basket. Then I had a piece of angle steel that just fit into the inner gear. With this secured in a vise I was able to rotate the outer piece with the strap wrench and insert each piece with a bit of leverage. So now do I use red or blue loctite?
Blue should be fine.
I’ve been waiting on some new cams and tappets so went to work on the frame, completely disassembling it. I took the forks apart tonight and would appreciate any comments. I am pretty sure these are forks from a 1969 Bonneville. The insides were a mess, lots of corrosion, so I’ll be needing to get a number of parts. These measure 6 3/4 inches stanchion to stanchion. On the right side stanchion there are a couple of pits about mid-way so I’m wondering if this is a problem to rebuild? On the left stanchion there are a couple of pits also, however they are very low on the stanchion. Thanks for any comments.
I’m working to get the frame parts ready for painting or powder coating. I see that on the main frame the main tube ends with an open hole. Is this suppose to have some sort of cap on it? I have not seen anything in the parts books but it seems like it would be a good idea.
