I used to use a beam one, it got lost among many moves. I replaced it with two “click” type. Been pretty happy with both. Also store them in original container and zero after each use.
1967/1969 Bonnie Rebuild Desert Sled Project
Help Support Triumph Motorcycle Forum:
I started out with a beam-type of torque wrench, but later bought two click/break-type wrenches; one to use in inch pounds and the other in foot pounds. They are handled carefully, always and returned to zero and stored in their cases.
I finally removed the cam bushings last evening, using the technique with a tap. Tapping them a ways and then they started to move and came out. Easier than I thought.
Apart from the damage that was existing in the right exhaust bushing, it seems good that I am replacing all of the bushings. It appears that all of the bushings are sintered bronze - except for the left intake bushing which is solid bronze. I would think this is not a good idea to mix bushing types?
Apart from the damage that was existing in the right exhaust bushing, it seems good that I am replacing all of the bushings. It appears that all of the bushings are sintered bronze - except for the left intake bushing which is solid bronze. I would think this is not a good idea to mix bushing types?
Some Tappet advice needed. I had thought that 3 or my tappets were the “R” type and 1 was not. Well, after carful inspection I can make out an “R” on all 4 tappets. So I suppose the means the previous builder was consistent. This being the case, the exhaust tappets do not have a machined cut away space with an oil hole. My engine is from 1969 and I thought that this meant it should have the exhaust tappets with the machined flat area and an oil hole, which should face out on assembly of the exhaust tappets. Do I have my facts straight?
Also, I am wondering if the case halfs are from different engines? As I put the cases together the casting doesn’t seem to match. As to the oiling of the exhaust tappets again, on the right side case, the exhaust tappet oil feed drillway is plugged. So perhaps this is why the exhaust tappets have no cut out and oil hole. Perhaps stranger again is that the cylinder (An old Routt big bore) does not seem to have an exhaust tappet oil feed drillway that would correspond with the drillway in the case. If any members can shed some light on this tappet sling question I’d appreciate it. From what I’ve read, the 1969 engine should have the exhaust tappet oiling system.
Thanks!
Also, I am wondering if the case halfs are from different engines? As I put the cases together the casting doesn’t seem to match. As to the oiling of the exhaust tappets again, on the right side case, the exhaust tappet oil feed drillway is plugged. So perhaps this is why the exhaust tappets have no cut out and oil hole. Perhaps stranger again is that the cylinder (An old Routt big bore) does not seem to have an exhaust tappet oil feed drillway that would correspond with the drillway in the case. If any members can shed some light on this tappet sling question I’d appreciate it. From what I’ve read, the 1969 engine should have the exhaust tappet oiling system.
Thanks!
Hydro blasting advice. I am going to take my engine parts to be hydro blasted. I am curious as to which parts can withstand this process. Obviously the cast engine cases - but does anyone also have the covers blasted? Or is this something that ruins them? Thanks for any advice.
It won't hurt the covers, but it's almost wasted effort if they're going to be polished afterwards. (unless you do the work yourself, then it relieves you of some of the early stages of sanding)
Tappet oil drillway advice needed.
So I purchased an AERCO big bore kit to replace my aged Routt. On the old Routt there was no exhaust tappet oil feed driveway, and the right side engine case had the oil driveway plugged. Additionally the exhaust tappets in the engine had no machined cut out or oil hole.
The AERCO cylinder has an open, exhaust tappet oil feed drillway. So what is a good way to proceed? Should I open up the right side case driveway, and buy new exhaust tappets with the machined part and oil hole? Has anyone had experience with this kind of situation?
Thanks!
So I purchased an AERCO big bore kit to replace my aged Routt. On the old Routt there was no exhaust tappet oil feed driveway, and the right side engine case had the oil driveway plugged. Additionally the exhaust tappets in the engine had no machined cut out or oil hole.
The AERCO cylinder has an open, exhaust tappet oil feed drillway. So what is a good way to proceed? Should I open up the right side case driveway, and buy new exhaust tappets with the machined part and oil hole? Has anyone had experience with this kind of situation?
Thanks!
I would first confirm the hardness of the cams and followers.
If not hardened to 69 or later spec (Nitrided), you'll need to re-open your oilway and get drilled cam followers.
If not hardened to 69 or later spec (Nitrided), you'll need to re-open your oilway and get drilled cam followers.
Got it. Thanks!
Cams and Bushings.
I ordered from Classic British Spares a set of sintered bronze bushings for my 1969 T120R. 3 of the bushings seemed to be right on as to size, etc. 1 of the bushings, the drive side intake bushing, was longer than necessary. I contact CBS and they said longer would provide more support and didn’t need to be cut down. However this length would interfere with the breather system. I revealed this to CBS again and they said to switch this bushing out with the exhaust drive side bushing, since it was shorter. Of course the exhaust drive side bushing did not have an oil hole drilled. So CBS said I should drill an oil hole and then debur and ream. I have not checked out if using the much longer bushing on the drive side exhaust cam would interfere with anything else. Has anyone had a similar experience with new cam bushings on this kind of motor?
Also, upon further examination of my cams I found some pitting. On the exhaust is a large pit on the lobe, and a smaller pit on the intake lobe. I’d be interested in knowing if these pits are a serious concern?
Thanks to all!
I ordered from Classic British Spares a set of sintered bronze bushings for my 1969 T120R. 3 of the bushings seemed to be right on as to size, etc. 1 of the bushings, the drive side intake bushing, was longer than necessary. I contact CBS and they said longer would provide more support and didn’t need to be cut down. However this length would interfere with the breather system. I revealed this to CBS again and they said to switch this bushing out with the exhaust drive side bushing, since it was shorter. Of course the exhaust drive side bushing did not have an oil hole drilled. So CBS said I should drill an oil hole and then debur and ream. I have not checked out if using the much longer bushing on the drive side exhaust cam would interfere with anything else. Has anyone had a similar experience with new cam bushings on this kind of motor?
Also, upon further examination of my cams I found some pitting. On the exhaust is a large pit on the lobe, and a smaller pit on the intake lobe. I’d be interested in knowing if these pits are a serious concern?
Thanks to all!
I'd be concerned enough with this one to call Megacycle and ask their opinion. Send them a copy of both photos...
Can't help you on the bushing issue, it's never happened to me.
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
ive never seen drive side bushes that were not too long. ive always cut them back
Nidge62
Member
Hi, I've started a rebuild of a t120 tr6, i got a full, carb kit from cheshire classic bike parts, ask for peter, a really nice guy,Good luck
Hey, thanks for the information. I'll check this out. I was thinking of going with the Amal or Mikuni. Once I get a bit more along with the engine reassemble I'll figure out what carbs I'll use. Cheers!
If you are going to have to pay for a new carb or carbs, may as well buy Burlen Amal Premiers.
Is this a problem?!
So I finally got all my engine cases clean enough to send to the hydro blaster (perhaps they look good enough without this blasting?) Anyway, when finally getting the head clean I noticed this breach in the right side exhaust portion of the head/chamber. So you can see there is an insert in this space (which the head bold goes through), so I’m not sure if this is OK to use or what. It looks as though this may have been there a long time. Any comments are appreciated.
Also, I live in the Northern Virginia area and am wondering if any members know of someone who could rebuild my head (if it is indeed ok to use). I know of a place in California to send it with a long wait list, and also have someone in Ohio who was given as a reference. I’m wondering who may be more local to me.
Thank you.
So I finally got all my engine cases clean enough to send to the hydro blaster (perhaps they look good enough without this blasting?) Anyway, when finally getting the head clean I noticed this breach in the right side exhaust portion of the head/chamber. So you can see there is an insert in this space (which the head bold goes through), so I’m not sure if this is OK to use or what. It looks as though this may have been there a long time. Any comments are appreciated.
Also, I live in the Northern Virginia area and am wondering if any members know of someone who could rebuild my head (if it is indeed ok to use). I know of a place in California to send it with a long wait list, and also have someone in Ohio who was given as a reference. I’m wondering who may be more local to me.
Thank you.
That's very common. I've heard of using a liquid high-temp epoxy and using a vacuum sealer to draw it in (not exactly sure how that works).
Anyway, I've also heard of the 2-part clear JB Weld applied to VERY clean and dressed gap all the way around, then dress with a Dremel emery-tipped tool after it cures. Set the head where the JB Weld can creep downward as it cures.
Anyway, I've also heard of the 2-part clear JB Weld applied to VERY clean and dressed gap all the way around, then dress with a Dremel emery-tipped tool after it cures. Set the head where the JB Weld can creep downward as it cures.
Thanks grandpaul. I imagine that this has been run with it like it is. It does not seem like damage or wear. So it doesn't seem like there would be a safety or longevity issue with the way it is, perhaps a performance issue since it might impact exhaust flow a bit. I'm considering leaving it as it is if this is the case. I've got to think others have seen this exact defect.
