TRITON! ...at last...

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What a lot of fuss to get the pistons & cylinders installed!

-Cleaned up the piston crowns with a Dremel wire wheel
-Dug through ring assortment to locate stray top ring of the correct type & size
-Checked ring end gaps (all fine), installed rings
-Washed cylinders after honing
-Polished cam follower (tappet) stems to make sure they were totally free in the guide block bores
-Reamed one rod small end bushing to better fit piston pin
-Used allthread rod and large washers to draw pins into pistons
-Installed fiddly snap ring circlips
-Installed base gasket
-Set up ring compressor bands
-Gently lowered cylinders in place
-Realized the two original stud sleeves were not accomodated for on the M.A.P. cylinders, had to lift them up slightly to remove the sleeves, lowered back down
-Sorted 8 matching nuts and installed.

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Now the top end is on hold 'till I locate the single missing alloy split lock keeper; oh, well, plenty of other stuff to do.
 
Didn't do much today but mock-up to check fit / interference of various parts.

Oil tank is going to work great, 2-into-1 header is not.

These pipes with these rearsets might be great for long winter road trips to keep my feet warm, otherwise, a re-work is in order. maybe i'll check out the scrambler pipes after all...

I need to source 4 really small screws that hold the velocity stack necks onto the carbs, as well at some fine thread intakes, the pair I have are coarse thread.

Turns out the MAP cylinders take different head bolts, so I need to order a set of those as well.

I did manage to assemble the rockers to the rockerboxes, and do have 4 brand new correct corner bolts and all the little studs and nuts for those.

I'm going to have to fabricate a head steady bracket to interface with the Dresda bit, the cheesy bit of angle aluminum that came in the kit is absolute rubbish. It's about 1" too short, and will only allow fixing to ONE head stud! I've got a design for two plates that will each hit 2 studs, and sandwich the main Dresda plate with 2 bolts.

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It's timing time.

Set the crank at 38 degrees BTDC using the flywheel cutout tool-

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Confirmed with the pointer on the alternator rotor mark-

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Installed the unit per the instructions-

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Also installed the Sparx regulator/rectifier-

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Looks like I'm going to need to stand the primary cover off at least 1/4" to clear the hunky MAP primary...

Oh, yes, note to anyone installing Dresda Triton engine adapter plates - install the transmission drain plug assembly before placing the engine in the cradle. The right side plate sits immediately below the drain/level plug location! You'll also have to crop the level plug about 1/4" to get it in and out of there for checking the tranny lube level.
 
Well one never knows how people may change their minds hey :y2:

Yep, one never knows.

I once put a lot of time and $$$ into a project and when it was finished I looked at it and said to self, "That didn't work out the way I hoped for." It was gone in a week, I hope GP has better luck.
 
Took a pair of OEM manifolds and chopped the ends of the flanges off-

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Turned them down in the lathe-

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Ready for the MkII carb spigots!

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The lip sits perfectly in the inner recess of the rubber spigot with the clamp compressing it nicely. I did have to cut a V-notch in each one to clear the balance tubes.
 

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