OIF Question

[The Seeker]

[quote author=grandpaul link=topic=10178.msg50938#msg50938 date=1285156655]
If they are the original Konis, or one of a few other types of the era, they are not upside-down.

If you mount those "correctly" with the hydraulics at the bottom and the rod at the top, they wont damp correctly and they'll fail prematurely.
[/quote]

I can't really tell if they are Koni or not. I flipped them over already, but I can easily put them back if you say so. I just figured the adjuster belonged at the bottom.

This photo makes everything look a lot rougher than it does to the eye...in person it looks a LOT cleaner than this.

I also just now noticed from taking this photo that there is a rubber buffer that looks like it's out of place...where does that belong?

(click on picture to enlarge if need be):

 

[DaveM]

As far as I remember that rubber buffer belongs where it is. It was when you bottom out the shock that it would buffer instead of hitting metal against metal. I may however be incorrect been a long time :tongue:

 

[The Seeker]

Well, I will wait to see what GP says about if these shocks are mounted correctly right now or not.

I did find the rubber venturis for the carbs.....British Cycle has the Mikuni carb "adapter" kits which consist of two bolt-on intake pipes of a larger diameter and the rubber hoses. I can buy just the hoses also.

Looking very closely at the rubber hoses that are on the bike right now, I could see that they are the actual kit hoses and not just hose bought someplace. They have writing stamped into them on each end.

 

[ducarly]

Hi Seeker:
The picture was taken of British Cycles, so we're on track. The shocks are firmly on the photo, and gum is so that when they abut the end of the route was hit dry (metal to metal).
Good Roads, Carlos from Ensenada, Argentina

 

[The Seeker]

Well, a new problem has arisen now.

I rode the bike to Bike Nite (about 25 minutes away) and it stalled out on me just as I was getting there. It was as if someone hit the kill switch (like an electrical problem). But, it started right up again.
I had the headlight on the whole way for safety. I didn't think much of it and stayed until well after dark. Then, I proceeded home and again made it almost all the way until it did it again. And again it started right up..... only this time it stalled out a couple more times just as I was getting into my property. Each time it stalls, it will start again.

So it's acting like there's not enough battery power. The lights are dim (even the oil lamp) although they do brighten up when your rev the engine. Perhaps it's not charging the battery? But the strange thing about that is that the day I bought it I rode a bit over an hour with the lights on and had no problems. So maybe something has gone wrong since then? Maybe the battery shorted?

 

[DaveM]

I think it is your battery. The fact that the light gets brighter when you rev it means it is charging

 

[grandpaul]

Those look like Girlings, but you'd better look close. The photo shows them "right way 'round". The buffer "floats" and you'll never see it in the same place twice 'till it loosens up so much that it's always resting on the hydraulic body and is probbl not as effective as it should be.

 

[The Seeker]

I can say that the bike feels a bit more stable now with the shocks this way as opposed to how they were when I bought the bike.

Can you weigh in at all on the stalling problem? I would say it is charging since the lights brighten when I rev the engine BUT if it's charging OK, then why would it begin to stall after riding at speed for 25 minutes or so? BTW, the headlamp seems awfully, dim at night too. I realize I'm used to riding a Hinckley Trophy with two PIAA bulbs and this thing only has a 45 watt bulb....but even still, it seems way too yellow/brown. I don't recall my '69 Tiger being so dim.

 

[The Seeker]

Hmmmm???

This photos seems to show a 1978 T-140V with Girling shocks in the "upside down" position:

Here's a photo of Girling replica shocks...they say it has the "ramp" style adjuster just as the original.

The shocks on my bike do NOT have the ramp style adjuster though.

 

[CarlS]

AJ, charge your battery up then take it for a spin after dark and see how the lights look. My '68 is not the brightest headlight; but it is darn near as good as a stock '03 T100 headlight. In fact the dim is better on the '68.

 

[DaveM]

Your shocks may be right depending on your frame model :tongue:

http://wallys-speed-shop.com/triumph_manual.htm

It changed because of a frame change the one year :y115:

 

[The Seeker]

[quote author=CarlS link=topic=10178.msg51011#msg51011 date=1285261654]
AJ, charge your battery up then take it for a spin after dark and see how the lights look. My '68 is not the brightest headlight; but it is darn near as good as a stock '03 T100 headlight. In fact the dim is better on the '68.
[/quote]

They were REAL dim!!

I also figure (after thinking about it a bit) that the reason it would stall (in addition to a low battery) when I stopped was because I had the brake lights on and the additional draw just sapped it to the point that the engine stalled.

Now I have to figure how to test the output of the charging system to test if it's charging enough.

I still think it's strange that I could ride a bit over an hour with the lights on without a problem and then have it happen after 25 minutes??? Whatever broke, must have done so after the first day I had the bike.

PS: The battery is on the charger as I type this.

 

[The Seeker]

[quote author=DaveM link=topic=10178.msg51018#msg51018 date=1285265795]
Your shocks may be right depending on your frame model :tongue:

http://wallys-speed-shop.com/triumph_manual.htm

It changed because of a frame change the one year :y115:

[/quote]

Thank you TRIUMPH for making things so muddled-up!!!!

 

[ducarly]

Hello Seeker and Forum:
The seats have cushions are fine tuning, they have a thread to be tightening the spring. Electrical problem on the lights, I have put in my '70 TR6R a 90/130 W halogen lamp and light it well, gives a very white light and has the original alternator tri phasic.
If you have a multimeter, you test the voltage of the battery before starting, and once started, check if the voltage goes up from 13.8 to 14.3 V, and also checks if the bike standing with the key contact to on, low fast battery charging. The ammeter on the bike but should acknowledge boot 2 amp max.
Good Road, Carlos fron Ensenada, Argentina.
P.D.:The manual that I download I think they are the data and how to check if the alternator is charging fine.

 

[The Seeker]

Thank you Carlos. I will check that with the multimeter. I will also look at the manual PDF file you gave us.

I gave my repair manual to the guy that bought my T-120 chopper.

The '78 T-140V doesn't have an Amp meter on the headlamp like my TR-6R.......which is unfortunate.

 

[The Seeker]

So I'm in the twilight zone here......

I took my trusty multimeter and just after charging the battery it was reading 13.78. With the key turned on, it dropped a tad to 13.4. With the bike running, it jumps up to 14.3, so I guess the battery is charging. Now I have NO IDEA why the battery is draining to almost nil if I ride with the light on for 25 minutes (especially after riding over an hour with the lights on the day I bought it). It could be a Lucas thing that only decides to screw up when it's dark outside. By the way, my headlamp is super bright with a fully charged battery too.

I also still don't have a clue what shocks I have or if they are right side up or not. I see pictures of them BOTH ways and all the specs I can find say that a '78 T-140V had Girling shocks from the factory.

I also succeeded in stripping one of the threads in the left hand switch housing when I was putting it back on the handlebar after I decided that the headlight dipped switch needed to be torn apart and greased. Now the dipper switch works perfectly (it was a bit stiff), but the entire switch housing rotates.....AAARRRGGG! Tomorrow I plan on drilling and re-threading the housing to fix my screw-up.

 

[ducarly]

Hi Seeker:
As you told me, the battery and the alternator going well. You have a short time due to some bare wire / bitten. Look under the tank and / or the headlight. With the key light, you can put a piece of rubber tube (wheel), or else make a hole in the housing and put a screw thread ... The shock absorber .... uhmmm, if you want to get you doubt it, take the spring to one and note, by pulling out the stem, where more strength if the bottle up or down, then you will notice they put in that position.
I hope I have served, good roads, Carlos from Ensenada, Argentina.

 

[The Seeker]

Yes, I must have a short someplace. I'm decent with a wrench, but I suck at electrical stuff...... so this isn't going to be fun.

 

[The Seeker]

[quote author=DaveM link=topic=10178.msg51018#msg51018 date=1285265795]
Your shocks may be right depending on your frame model :tongue:

http://wallys-speed-shop.com/triumph_manual.htm

It changed because of a frame change the one year :y115:

[/quote]

So, after frame number BX5107 the shocks should be upside down.

My serial number is T140VNX01191

It take it that means that mine is after BX5107....correct? The T140V part is the model.

 

[Dschief]

NX was made in October 1978, BX was made in February 1978.