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[quote author=Dschief link=topic=10178.msg51358#msg51358 date=1285812499]
I can't answer that one, I think you'll have to do some measuring to solve that riddle.
[/quote]

Well, I found the answer to that.....

Only the '73 and up fork gaiters will fit. They were used only on the European models and not in the USA. But they are available.
 
Just as an update:

I have now replaced the three burnt out bulbs which indicate the oil pressure warning light, turn signal, and high beam.

I also replaced the burnt out pilot light bulb inside the headlamp.

I was able to get the proper intake rubber venturis to adapt the Mikunis and installed them. Now I have no air leaks and can ride it again!

Next on the agenda is the fork gaiters and pea shooter retro pipes (plus the adapter inserts).
 
You're moving right along. It all sounds very familiar like the first year I owned the old Triumph. Fixed things and rode it as I went along.
I replaced the pilot bulb with a halogen bulb on the Triumph and BSA and use that for my daytime running light since it shines so bright. I also replaced the headlight as the reflector was badly deteriorated and didn't reflect much anymore. The new reflector and halogen bulb gives me lots of light.
A halogen burns hot so make sure the socket is metal and not plastic as it will eventually melt. Don't ask me how I know this :ya2:
 
I have considered going to a halogen headlamp bulb, but until I am positive that my charging issues are OK, I am going to hold off on that since a halogen would certainly draw more power than the stock bulb. I also worry a bit about how hot the wiring would get??? That said...I do see halogen adapter sockets for these bikes so if they make them, evidently the stock wiring is capable of handling the extra "juice".
 
I think the wiring is capable provided that all of the connections are good. Though I have not switched to halogen bulbs (because of the heat). I do run my pilot in the daytime on the open road. Good progress, AJ; this old bikes are fun - and a challenge.
 
I have been contemplating how I'll install the fork gaiters. To remove the forks from their yokes and slide them down from the top is probably the preferred method. However, that will be more involved as well. Therefore, I am considering if it would be possible to do it from the bottom-up???

If the gaiters will squeeze over the widest part of the forks (where there are two ears cast in there for the fender stays), then I might attempt to do it that way. I'd obviously have to remove the front wheel and remove the brake caliper and the brake fluid hose from the forks. I think I can do that without actually having to disconnect the brake line (no need to bleed them afterwards) whereas I would have to disconnect it along with a lot of other stuff to do it from the top.
 
[quote author=CarlS link=topic=10178.msg51626#msg51626 date=1286203460]
I have always removed the forks from the yokes and slid the gaiters down from the top.
[/quote]

Yeah...me too. But it's not as easy with a bike that has a master cylinder on the bars and disc brakes. That's why I'm thinking hard about how/if it's possible to go bottom up.

I figure that even if I find it impossible, I've not really lost any time or anything since everything I remove to do it that way would have to come off anyhow (except the fender).
 
GP:

I'm not blowing out the bulbs. They were just old and already out when I bought the bike. Since replacing them, I've not blown a single one (nor did I blow the bulbs that were working when I bought it).

As far as the suspected charging system problem I had goes....I believe I have that under control now. It seems to be charging per specs and not draining too quickly anymore.
 
[quote author=CarlS link=topic=10178.msg51639#msg51639 date=1286204902]
Good luck. I don't know if you can get it over the ears.
[/quote]

Well, with an ID of only 1.5 inches (and that's the larger end), there's no way it would even go over the bottom of the forks without any fender stay ears!

But I think I've figured out how these work....

They don't fit OVER anything at each end like the earlier gaiters (where you use the clamps). They simply fit BETWEEN the top headlamp bracket and the top of the fork where the dust seal is.

If you look closely at the bike below, it looks like the fork gaiter is sinply "riding" between the chrome headlight bracket and the dust seal on the top of the fork lower:

DSC_0499.jpg
 
[quote author=The Seeker link=topic=10178.msg51686#msg51686 date=1286286442]
Well, with an ID of only 1.5 inches (and that's the larger end), there's no way it would even go over the bottom of the forks without any fender stay ears!

But I think I've figured out how these work....

They don't fit OVER anything at each end like the earlier gaiters (where you use the clamps). They simply fit BETWEEN the top headlamp bracket and the top of the fork where the dust seal is.

If you look closely at the bike below, it looks like the fork gaiter is sinply "riding" between the chrome headlight bracket and the dust seal on the top of the fork lower:

DSC_0499.jpg

[/quote]

I think you are right. I just have no experience with the 1972 and later models.
 
OK...this is really weird.

I decided that I ought to check the gearbox oil on this '78 T140V last night. So either I have gone blind or my bike is some kind of a "one of a kind" because for the life of me, I could not locate the drain/level check plug underneath the gearbox. I double-checked the manual to make sure it should be in the same place as the older models, and it should be. But I certainly cannot locate it???
 

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