New Trophy Owner

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tested the toggle switch with a voltmeter, it checks out fine.

So I thought putting new plugs in the bike would help the stuttering and it cutting off at red lights, boy was I wrong.
replaced the plugs, and Now i can't get the bike to even fire up.

I also replaced the fuel hose as well, but there is no kink in the line, and I inspected the carbs and everything and didn't see any obvious damage before I put the tank on.

The only thing I can think of is it started riding crappy after I last got gas, but is it possible to get bad gas from a gas station?

I sea foamed the bike probably a month ago, so teh carbs should be pretty clean.

Does the petcock run on any type of vacume tube system?


It just started running a bit choppy, then started to die at stop lights, and now can't even get the machine to fire up and hold a steady pulse
and when I do get it fired up, riding around the block I have to hold the throttle wide open just to stutter around

It shouldnt be the battery, as the lights are bright and everything else works properly as it should, and the startor motor sounds strong.
 
The petcock is completely controlled by vacuum. That's why there is no OFF position. I would test that by disconnecting the fuel line and putting the end in a bottle. Turn the petcock to the prime position and fuel should flow freely. Turning it to the Run position and sucking on the vacuum tube should allow fuel to flow also. When you removed the tank you should have removed the vacuum tube, the fuel line, and the wire to the fuel level sensor.

Trophys also have a problem sometimes with a clogged fuel tank vent. Open the fuel cap and see if flow improves.

Be sure you gapped the new plugs correctly and didn't mid up the plugs leads too.
 
I found four lines, the main fuel line, the line that connects to the back of the petcock, the electrical sensor, and there was a smaller 1/8" line that had a vaccume, I was confused about where it went, and i found a little nub behind the gastank, very near the two bolts that bolt it to the frame, and connected it there.

The secondary hose looked pretty worn, so I suppose I'll just take the tank back off and replace it. Could be a nicked hose was not creating teh proper vac.

The plugs were gapped per spec.

Also, when I pulled the plugs, the two outside cylinders were black, the two inside were slightly less black, not quite tan. Should i adjust the carbs or just run them as is.
( and always, thanks for the help seeker )

I aslo got ahold of a pdf of the manual, so i'm gonna print out the copy at work, and hopefully its just a vaccume issue. Ideally, I would like to just basically replace all the hoses under the tank with some good quality ones, but taking of the airbox sounds like a hell I don't want to put myself through just yet.
 
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Haven't done it for awhile so yes.....there are two fatter fuel lines that got to the petcock and one smaller those that is the vacuum hose. That vacuum hose goes from the petcock to one of the carbs where it draws vacuum from. If it's not connected to a carb then there's your problem!

Also...if it's not connected to a carb you are leaking air into the intake which could cause the two carbs in the center to caused the sparkplug fouling.
 
that must be the problem. I'll look in the manual i just printed out ( 217 pages ) and i'm sure there is a diagram of that.

Every previous bike i've owned had always been a single cylinder bike with a simple gravity feed system.

I'll pull the tank again today ( its supposed to be a nice weekend in the mid 70's down here ) and see if I can get it sorted out for the weekend. i'm approaching the 30k mark, and I would really like to get the bike up and going over the winter, so many events coming up soon, Riders of Texas rally as well as MotoGP down here in Austin ( which i'm so excited about )
 
Damned auto-correct when I post with my tablet is driving me crazy!!!!

Sorry for the weird language before, that's the auto-correct fixing what doesn't need fixed!!


That thinner vacuum tube from the petcock can attach to any one of the four carbs. It was probably attached to ONE of them which means there's an open nipple on one carb right now. The other three carbs will have a rubber cover over the nipple to prevent air leakage. You should try to find the one that is missing the black rubber cover over the nipple and attach it there. The nipples are at the rear of the carb.
 
got it. And yes, most of the "free" online manuals are just .pdf's that show the first 3 pages and then a link to buy the full version.

I've found a copy of the hanes manual ( scanned ) not sure if its allowed for me to post the link as I don't want to get me or anyone else in troubble, but its the full manual that covers the trophy and a few other models.
 
The only problem with the Haynes manual is that it covers so many different models you have to be careful you're reading the correct part for the Trophy and there are illustrations that don't pertain to your bike.

Since you are removing the tank again anyhow, you may as well check that the diaphragm inside the petcock is working OK. Just put the fuel line that would go to the carbs into a bottle and suck on the smaller vacuum tube. With the petcock turned to RUN or PRIME it should allow gas to flow. Actually it should on RES as well. It should shut off the flow when there's no vacuum.

If it doesn't, the rubber diaphragm inside the petcock is bad.
 
yeah, I was thinking of going through it and pulling pages I don't need. Try to condense the 271 pages down to something a bit more usefull. I'm the kind of guy who would rather just have exploded diagrams of everything vs the kind of stuff thats in this manual, but it will do.
 
got it working, I just had the vac tube connected to the wrong thing lol.

I also noticed I was basically dry on oil, I put 4 liters in and there was still room left, so I'm either burning oil or have a leak somewhere :(
Hopefully i have not run it hard enough to cause any damage to the top end.

If you want the pdf of the manual, just send me a pm and i'll help you out.
 
You are running fully synthetic oil aren't you?

It's abnormal to use only an incremental amount of oil in a whole year. Could this oil have comes out when you laid the bike down?

Whatever you do....do not overfill the oil as the bike won't even run with too much oil.
 
Right, I did add some oil when I laid it down, so I must either be burning up oil in my top end or have an oil leak. ( no white smoke though ) full synth.

Finally got the bike fired up and running right, I think it was a combo of low oil, old plugs, and i noticed the fuel hoses were very worn and so I replaced them with some high end hoses and replaced the hose clilps with some better ones, and it seems to fire up a bit better now. I did notice my temperature light coming on though ( very dim ) not sure if it was from the stop-go route i took, or what. I know my resivour is full of coolant. Not sure If i should be worried about that or not.

I'm also thinking about trying to drop a tooth or two in the front sprocket, I would like a little more acceleration out of the bike, as my high speeds are not that high since i mostly live in the city.

I'm still also wanting to do the PVC fork mod, since my bike is lowered, it comes pretty close to bottoming out the front forks, so if I compress the springs they won't have as much play in them, right?
 
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Yep. The 1-1.5 inch pvc will just stiffen things a bit.

I think in the TT Wiki there's a chart for sprocket sizes/ratios.

I would be concerned about the tempt light coming on. Does your fan come on when it gets warm?
 
i've still not figured out why its cutting out, and right now my car is dead until at least next friday, so the bike is my only mode of transportation. When I filled it up with oil i deffenately over filled it, as oil has been dripping from the air box, so last night I drained it some more, but still don't see any light in the site glass, and this morning it cut off again at a light, with the bike in neutral and clutch in. No smoke out the back though, so i'm not sure whats going on. I could do a full oil change, but thats $50 out of my pocket that I need to get my car going again.

I think whats happening is the crankcase breather tube is sucking oil into the airbox, which then the oil is getting the air filter clogged up and making its way into the carbs, causing a poor air/fuel mixture. For now i'll just pull the vent tube out of the air box and have it pointed down at the ground. see if that helps anything.
 
I would stick a thin screwdriver down into the oil filler and see what the oil level really is. Perhaps it is still over-full. Although in my experience they won't even start with too much oil.

I think the oil from the airbox is just excess from the foam filter....in order for oil to get from the engine to the airbox it would have to travel pretty far and backwards through the carbs....at an upward angle too.

It sounds more electrical if it just cuts out?

What about the idle speed? Trophys need that to be about 1000 rpm.
 
Well, from one of my old race bikes, a similar problem happened, and its not that the oil is going from the top end, back through the carb, and back into the airbox, but when the motor gets hot, the oil starts to get misty, and the suction of the carbs will actually pull that mist up into the airbox, where it will then cool, condense, and clog up the air filter ( running a K&N filter btw ) From what i understand, the idea is that on a normally working motor, the gasses and vapors from the crankcase are sucked back into the motor and burnt off into the exhaust ( its an EPA thing ) if too much oil gets into the air filter, it will either clog the filter and your bike will starve for air, or it will mix with the air/fuel in the carb and throw off the ballance. And yesterday, when my bike died twice on the way home, each time the bike began to bog out, and I basically had to pull over and let the bike sit for a bit. and with it being stop-n-go traffic as well as nice 75 degree weather, its easy to see how the oil would heat up and mist up faster, thus clogging up the air filter faster.

and I know there is oil in the air filter because when I park the bike, oil drips out from the corner, down the side of the motor and onto the pipe. So, in theory, If i disconnect the breather tube, and just have it vent out into the air, ( with a breahter filter on it ) it should eventually get all the oil out of the air filter and box. I actually have the bike idoling around 1100 rpm, as that has seemed to help the random cut outs a little. Odd thing is, when it cuts out, it fires right back up ( at stop lights ) battery is plenty strong, and fires up quite quick. I feel really dumb for just now thinking of that, as since the bike is not morally mine, i've been heasatant to pull it apart, ( all my old race bikes were beat to hell, and basically did everything to them myself, but also being a single cylinder race bike, things were much more simple, no eletrical, push start only, simlple engine design, and easy to tear apart )

The only danger of pulling the breather tube is that it will then allow moisture into the case, so typically a breather filter is recomended.

So for now, i'll pull the breather tube, and do a full oil drain and change.

Question on the oil change, are there pumps on our bikes? or do you just unscrew the filter and let it all drain out? and if i'm correct the bikes use 3.8quarts of oil? and is there any way to clean the oil site glass? i'm afraid mine is too dirty to properly see through.
 

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