charles
Active Member
Hey all. Got done putting my 69 TR6R gearbox back together and have been slowly getting a Newby belt drive in place. I intend to post a detailed article about the process when all is done. However right now I have to reach out.
The parts are in place except for the stator. While I was turning the engine over to the check pressure plate alignment I could hear a suction/hissing sound from the, rotor/front pulley area. So I put some spray white lube around the rotor nut and when turning over the engine again I could see the lube being sucked and pushed around the nut. So I can only guess that crankcase pressure/suction is getting by the splines of the pulley and running up the keyway. On assembly, because the pulley is wider than the OEM sprocket the "distance piece" is deleted, and the rotor sits against the pulley but the contact area of the rotor on the crank nose is not as much as it would be with the sprocket. However there is good purchase with the crank nut.
This engine breathes by way of a metal tube that exits the crankcase behind the primary, which is connected to a tube running up to the oil tank and teed to a line out to the rear fender. Do I need to increase crankcase venting via the timing plug? Or am I missing something obvious? Newby recommends using antiseize on the splines, which I did on assembly.
To me, this has not been a $900.00 bolt on project. FWI. I have been in Email contact with Mr. Newby numerous times and he has been responsive but not overly wordy. The belt drive package is a work of art!
I am starting to get fried on this. The student is in class without a teacher.
Thanks for looking and any thoughts.
Charles
The parts are in place except for the stator. While I was turning the engine over to the check pressure plate alignment I could hear a suction/hissing sound from the, rotor/front pulley area. So I put some spray white lube around the rotor nut and when turning over the engine again I could see the lube being sucked and pushed around the nut. So I can only guess that crankcase pressure/suction is getting by the splines of the pulley and running up the keyway. On assembly, because the pulley is wider than the OEM sprocket the "distance piece" is deleted, and the rotor sits against the pulley but the contact area of the rotor on the crank nose is not as much as it would be with the sprocket. However there is good purchase with the crank nut.
This engine breathes by way of a metal tube that exits the crankcase behind the primary, which is connected to a tube running up to the oil tank and teed to a line out to the rear fender. Do I need to increase crankcase venting via the timing plug? Or am I missing something obvious? Newby recommends using antiseize on the splines, which I did on assembly.
To me, this has not been a $900.00 bolt on project. FWI. I have been in Email contact with Mr. Newby numerous times and he has been responsive but not overly wordy. The belt drive package is a work of art!
I am starting to get fried on this. The student is in class without a teacher. Thanks for looking and any thoughts.Charles
