Not starting.... grrrr

[golfingirl]

Okay. If my valve cover is leaking a touch of oil, can I simply tighten it down or is it prudent to buy a new gasket? I assume there's not enough clearance to tighten it down without removing the tank. I was planning on tightening it down this weekend and changing the spark plugs at the same time. If that deosn't get her going, then onto cleaning out the jet and getting a new air filter to be safe. Reasonable plan for this newbie?

 

[Rocky]

If the valve cover is only leaking a tiny bit it may not be worth the effort to take it off.
You will have to take the gas tank off to get at the Allen head bolts. If they already seem tight when you put some pressure on them, then they're proabably tight. You have to be careful and not apply too much pressure (only 7-8 foot pounds) or you may strip the threads.
The neoprene gasket generally does a good job of sealing, but the only way to check its condition is to remove the cover.
If it seems damaged , kinked or whatever then replace it. I put a chrome valve cover on my bike and used the old gasket which has never leaked a bit. Follow the manual; get everything very clean; don't let any debris fall inside the head and you should be fine.
It will also be easier to replace the spark plugs with the gas tank off too.
Unless you bike has very high mileage the air cleaner/filter may not need replacing. Take it out and tap the dirt out of it. Compressed air is best for blowing out the dirt. If it's really dirty and filthy, replace it.
As for cleaning the jets (one in each carb) I have never been inside mine so can't offer any guidance.
If you have a Haynes manual follow it closely and you should have no problems.
BTW, how many miles are on your bike? This may help us in making suggestions.

 

[CarlS]

The valve cover leaking or weeping is an annoyance and a cosmetic thing. Certainly it needs to be fixed. My priory would be to get my bike running and then take care of the gasket. From my remote position and haven't seen your bike, it is difficult to give advice. As discussed, it could be spark plugs or a dirty carb. There is also a chance it could be a coil. Usually coil problem show up when the engine gets warm, though. I think I would put new spark plugs in and see if that is the problem. If it still will not run, take the air filter out and try to start it. That will either point to the air filter or eliminate the air filter as the problem.

Don't forget to charge the battery. With all of the attempts at starting, the battery charge may be getting weak. Electronic ignition systems don't work well with a weak battery. Do you have a battery charger? If not not, pick up a "smart" charger designed for motorcycles, ATV's etc. You can get these at any auto parts store such as Advance, Pep Boys, NAPA, etc. This charger will slowly charge tha battery and will cut off when the battery reaches full charge. It will then monitor the battery and give the battery a charge when needed to keep the battery fully charged. These trickle chargers run in the $30 - $40 price range. I have three of these:



Schumacher SEM-1562A 1.5 Amp Speed Charge Maintainer

 

[devo]

and while your checking the filter,have a quick check on all the intakes up to and out of the airbox to make sure some kritter hasnt built a nest in there and is stopping your bike from breathing like it should.

 

[CarlS]

Good point.

 

[golfingirl]

My bike has 11 000 miles on it. I do have a trickle charger which I will put on her tonight. Good idea.

I'll check the valve cover bolts to ensure they are tight. If they are, I will order a new gasket and plan on replacing it.

I will replace the spark plugs at the same time this weekend.

Is it difficult to check the jets and filter?

 

[Doug]

Devo has a point,I've known that to happen. Just take off the left body sidecover and have a look.
I really dont think a blocked jet would happen overnight,you might have got some water with your last tank of petrol(that's 'gas' to you colonials)so you could try draining the float bowls. It's easy,at the bottom of each float bowl you'll find a recessed socket screw,use a 3mm allen key(socket wrench) to loosen it about one turn.What comes out should be clean fuel,if any water is present it will present itself as separating droplets.
Hope this helps.

 

[Rocky]

Your bike has very low mileage so I think you will only need to clean the air cleaner/filter unless it's really dirty. I think it's a good idea to check it anyway just as a matter of routine so that you'll know one way or the other - plus a clean filter is better for the engine.
I'm surprised that the valve cover gasket is leaking at such low mileage, but I suppose anything can happen.
It's recommended that you replace the spark plugs at 12,000 miles so you're about ready for that.
I agree with Doug that you should drain the carb bowls in case you picked up some water. Anything is worth a try.
Turn the petcock off, drain one carb at a time and see what comes out.
If you decide to remove the gas tank you may find the gas line will be stuck on the petcock spigot and it's a devil to break loose sometimes. Four letter words often help
I've never been inside my carbs so can't comment on how hard cleaning jets might be.

 

[CarlS]

My bike has 11 000 miles on it. I do have a trickle charger which I will put on her tonight. Good idea.

I'll check the valve cover bolts to ensure they are tight. If they are, I will order a new gasket and plan on replacing it.

I will replace the spark plugs at the same time this weekend.

Is it difficult to check the jets and filter?

Checking the filter is easy.
1. Remove the left side cover. You will see a snorkel that directs air into airbox.
2. Remove the snorkel and the mount for the snorkel. I believe there are two bolts that hold the where snorkel mounts to the airbox. I have long since ditched the snorkels on both of my T100's. I don't recommend that you do that unless you are prepared to rejet your carbs. The Bonneville engine runs leans from the factory and without the snorkel, it will run more lean.
3. With the snorkel and mount removed, you can see the filter. You remove the filter by pulling it straight out. You might want to put a piece of masking tape on the frame where the filter comes out. The filter is tight fit and it will brush the frame. The tape will keep you from scratching the frame.
Examine the filter and see if it is dirty. If it is new filter, both the inside and the outside should be white. You can try to start your bike withe the filter out and see if it starts.

It is possible that the previous owner installed a unifilter, which is reuseable, or a K&N, which is also reuseable. These filters need to cleaned and very lightly oiled.

Once the filter is out, check the airbox and the opening from it to the engine for any nests as Harry posted. You may find a little oil in the bottom of the airbox. These is normal; the engine breather vents into the airbox. If the engine oil has been overfilled, you may find quite a bit of oil there. Clean the oil out with a rag, preferably a lint free shop rag. Don't use a paper towel as these will get bits of paper in the carbs. You can use kerosene or mineral spirits to clean out the oil if there is much there.

Before you check the filter though, charge the battery and try to start the bike. If it does not start and run on a fully charged battery, change the sparks plugs and try again to start it. If it still does not start and run, then check the filter. By taking it a step at a time, you may be able to pinpoint what went wrong. Please let us know.

Doug's instructions for draining the carb bowls are spot on. If you remove the bowls completely, look in the bottom of each them for trash and sediment. Clean them if there is anything in them. If you find even a little trash in them, it may well indicate trash has plugged up a jet.

 

[Rocky]

If you don't already have one, I highly recommend getting a Haynes manual for the Bonneville. Everything is clearly explained with tons of pictures. It's very well done and it's almost impossible to go wrong.
For example, all the things Carl explained about cleaning the air fliter/cleaner is clearly shown in the manual.
Get the manual. It's well worth the money and will answer a great many questions and give you confidence that you can do things to the bike yourself.

 

[golfingirl]

Thanks Doug, CarlS, and Rocky for such great advice and taking the time to assist me. I do have the Haynes manual and I'm studying sections in anticipation of my repairs this weekend.

Just to clarify how new I am at this, I've only done any mechanical work on non motorized vehicles. So, bear with me as I ask such simple questions. If I drain the fuel out to see if there's water in the tank, how do I discard the fuel?

I guess I should invest in some sort of stand for my bike since I'm starting to do repairs. Pitbull stand okay? I've heard decent things about them. I usually have someone around that can help me put my bike on it.

 

[CarlS]

Laura, you are very welcome. I am glad you have the Haynes manual; it is a very good tool.

I don't know where you live so I can't really help you with your fuel disposal question. Put it in a fuel can and ask your dealer or the folks at an auto parts store how to dispose of it in your area. I know how I handle it - but the EPA would not approve.

I can't help you with the stand; I have a motorcyclist jack and center stands on my bikes. You can watch Harbor Freight and the chain auto parts stores for sales on motorcycle/ATV jacks.

 

[Rocky]

Super! I'm glad you have the manual. I refer to mine often and studied it a lot before I took my suspension apart this winter.
Every winter I drain my carbs (three bikes) and put the gas in a container. I then take it to a hazardous recycling station, along with old paint and any other toxic household items. I only do this every couple of years as I have a detached garage to store the stale gas away from the house.
If you have a centerstand that's about all you need, but I have paddock stands too. It's best to have a helper to steady the bike when you put the bike up and down.
If you have a centerstand you probably already know that it takes a big heave to pull the bike up on it.
Pitbull seems to be a popular brand and should be fine.

 

[The Seeker]

Laura.....do you have anywhere with weeds that you want to kill? Perfect place to dump fuel when no one is looking

The way I see it is that oil and gasoline comes from the ground doesn't it? Besides, the County oils dusty dirt roads every summer with used engine oil anyhow!

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[Rocky]

I was trying to be environmentally correct but a tiny bit of gas can be disposed of
in "certain ways"

 

[The Seeker]

I was trying to be environmentally correct but a tiny bit of gas can be disposed of
in "certain ways"

Lol.....around here in western Pennsylvania, oil naturally bubbles right up from the ground and is a nuisance to farmers. We even have a river called Oil Creek that has oil floating on top.

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[CarlS]

Exactly as AJ and Rocky stated.

 

[DaveM]

Well I must say you doing a great job at it being so new to working on bikes

 

[Rocky]

Well I must say you doing a great job at it being so new to working on bikes

I too admire you willingness to get your hands dirty and learn about your bike
But to be honest, I usually wear a disposable latex sort of glove to protect my hands from oil and grease
Stuff like this is really only hard the first time (and a bit of a mystery) until you have done it at least once.

 

[golfingirl]

LMAO! I try to be environmentally friendly and sadly my gas tank is full... grrrr. I don't have that many weeds to get rid of. I know gas stations here in ATL have to take used oil, I'll check about gas too.

Thanks so much guys for always being here to answer my simple questions. It is a big learning curve for me. I won't let my husband help me much. He doesn't ride a motorcycle and I want this to be my hobby, not become his. So it is excellent to have a resource outside of the Haynes manual. I like to chat things over. If nothing else but to boost my confidence. You guys rock!