DJ Commerative Rally Report

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Adrian

Member
Well, the DJ has come and gone again. But this year was a very special one, being the centenary of the first race, and attracted the largest entry list ever with a good number of overseas riders taking part. The route was reversed this year with the start in Johannesburg and the finish in Hillcrest near Durban. The rally covered three days - Day One from Jo'burg to Newcastle, Day Two from Newcastle to Nottingham Road and Day Three from Nottingham Road to Hillcrest.

The event is open to all bikes manufactured in or before 1936 and there were 200 entries.

Scrutineering my Triumph Tiger 780 - just as well I got there early and avoided the bun fight later on!
scrutineering.jpg

The start of Day One - some riders were affected by rain and hail in the vicinity of Newcastle but I had a dry run all the way through in spite of donning my wet weather gear at the last fuel stop. It's quite daunting with these massive 18-wheelers passing close by your shoulder while trying to accurately maintain the required speeds ... one eye on the route schedule for the next clue, one eye on the stop watches for maintaining the speeds, and a third eye watching the mirror for traffic!
start of day 1.jpg

The end of Day Two - showered and changed and preparing the final day's route schedule.
route schedule.jpg

Day Three dawned cold and wet. Fortunately I had parked the Tiger under a tarpaulin so at least it stayed nice and dry. But little did I know at that point that there were problems looming for me. When I tried to start the bike, it felt as though the engine had seized solid.
start of day 3.jpg

I wheeled it down to the tar road and continued to try and free the engine. By this time, my start time had come and gone so the competitive element of the rally was over for me. Finally, after much sweat and many curses, the engine turned over but refused to start. Further trouble shooting revealed that not only was there was no spark, but that the points were not rotating inside the magneto. I then had to admit that the entire rally was over for me so we loaded the Tiger onto the trailer and drove to Hillcrest ... a sad way to end the event.
the end.jpg

Ever heard of 'shelactitus'? Let me explain - the magneto armature is coated with shellac to insulate and protect the copper windings. With age, the shellac deteriorates and starts to melt when the engine and magneto are at normal operating temperature. Then when the engine is switched off, the shellac cools and solidifies against the magneto housing which means that the magneto can't rotate any longer; because the magneto gear is part of the crank drive train, the engine can't turn either so it feels as if it has seized. And THAT is the sad reason for my being declared a non-finisher ... my dear old Dad must have been turning in his grave, but I doubt that even he would have foreseen this particular brand of trouble.

So now the question is: repair the magneto and keep it in it's original state, or convert it to electronic ignition? There's a firm in the UK that produces a 12v ignition kit that fits neatly inside the magneto housing, so from the outside it looks like the original magneto but a new transplanted heart beats strongly (and reliably) within. What to do, what to do ... I'm torn between the two choices!

Oh well, roll on next year so that we can do it all again ...
 
What a shame you had this type of an issue and as you say something that I suppose you could not really see coming. I would actually convert to the new system but keep an original as a backup so you could always switch back if you felt that way
 
Adrian, thanks for the excellent ride report. I feel your pain and I'm sorry you had the magneto problem. I agree with Dave. I would convert to electronic ignition, repair/replace the magneto so I could go back stock. That is what I had Paul do when he restored my TRT6.

I would love to have been able to attend that rally.
 
Too bad the outcome was bad for you, but the pics are great TUP
I've read in the British classic bike magazines about that magneto conversion and it seems the business.
But like most things in life, the good stuff costs $$$.
If you plan to keep the bike the investment might be worth it.
 
Congratulations for getting as far as you did.
For me it would be a modern ignition hidden behind the original cover.
A friend years ago had an I over E Harley with a suspect coil. He machined the internals away, slipped in a Honda coil and then filled around it with black tar like material. You couldn't pick the modification and the bike became reliable.
The same bloke fitted two sets of 125 Honda front disc brakes into the drums of his Alvis car, looked correct but stopped on request.
 
Thanks Guys, appreciate the positive comments! :y2:

The electronic ignition kit costs GBP350 plus another 40 odd for shipping - that's more than an eye-watering ZAR4,000! I've been pointed towards a local guy who repairs/rewinds magnetos at a fraction of the cost so that's the direction I'll be taking. However, if I get around to robbing a bank, I'll definitely buy the kit.

Had a pleasant ride on the old Enfield on Sunday, the Century Run where the combined ages of the bike and the rider must exceed 100 years. Mine was a whopping 163 years which qualified me for a gold certificate!
 
Thanks Guys, appreciate the positive comments! :y2:

The electronic ignition kit costs GBP350 plus another 40 odd for shipping - that's more than an eye-watering ZAR4,000! I've been pointed towards a local guy who repairs/rewinds magnetos at a fraction of the cost so that's the direction I'll be taking. However, if I get around to robbing a bank, I'll definitely buy the kit.

Had a pleasant ride on the old Enfield on Sunday, the Century Run where the combined ages of the bike and the rider must exceed 100 years. Mine was a whopping 163 years which qualified me for a gold certificate!

I'm sure that a good man can do the rewind for you and you'll get many years out of it. I had a Norton Atlas that had been reworked (magneto) by the previous owner's specialist and it threw a spark like a lightning bolt.
If you do have problems getting bits that you know are cheaper in Australia I'm happy to act as your agent.
 
I'm sure that a good man can do the rewind for you and you'll get many years out of it. I had a Norton Atlas that had been reworked (magneto) by the previous owner's specialist and it threw a spark like a lightning bolt.
If you do have problems getting bits that you know are cheaper in Australia I'm happy to act as your agent.

And what Kevin said goes for me in the US. I'd be glad to help you if needed.

I like that concept of the Century Ride. TUP
 
Kevin & Carl to the rescue. :thumbup:
That's what makes TT so great, folks in different corners of the World willing to help a fellow member.


Had a pleasant ride on the old Enfield on Sunday, the Century Run where the combined ages of the bike and the rider must exceed 100 years. Mine was a whopping 163 years which qualified me for a gold certificate!

I would love to attend one of these just to see the bikes and hopefully hear some of the riders talking about their bikes and their past rides. There's got to be some great stories, even from some of the younger riders on older machines.




Posting with Tapatalk while riding my Tiger 955i at 15 over the speed limit.
 
Had a pleasant ride on the old Enfield on Sunday, the Century Run where the combined ages of the bike and the rider must exceed 100 years.

THAT is a GREAT concept! I'll have to encourage implementation of that, with maybe something like a 100 mile ride. 100/100?

I would qualify with a '68, but only have the '67 running. I believe it would make it!
 
Thank you Carl, much appreciated!

This was the 7th running of the event and there were about 45 bikes entered so it is quite a popular occasion. There were a few distances that riders could choose from, 16kms (suitable for the veterans), 44kms and 100kms; each group's start times were staggered so that all the riders finished at the clubhouse at about the same time. Barbeque fires were lit and the bar was opened so it all ended very socially.

But back to the DJ, there were a number of overseas competitors who took part and they were all very impressed by the event, so much so that most of the first-timers have pledged to come back next year. So have a think about whether you'd like to participate, the Rand/Dollar or Rand Pound exchange rates rates make it an affordable trip. There are guys who take the event very seriously, the winner's total error was only 163 seconds over three days and 500-odd kms (remember, no speedometers, gps, nothing that measures speed, only stop watches) which is pretty impressive. Then there are the guys who just want to be part of the event and don't care what their scores are, the kind of guys who stop and help other riders who are experiencing difficulties. Alastair Gibson who was riding his Dad's 1936 BMW R5 stopped, got out a piece of rope and towed the rider of the 1912 Bat, who's belt was slipping due to the rain and who's rider was exhausted from pushing, up a long hill ... perhaps THEY are the true competitors! I had lunch on day two with a Dutch guy who brought his 1926 Husqvarna over from Holland; he rode without a route schedule and followed the guy in front, he just wanted the experience of riding in a DJ. I believe that the one of the Aussie riders has been inspired to trya and organize a similar 'DJ' DownUnder.

Bringing your own bike over would add significantly to the cost, but most of the overseas riders loaned bikes from locals. It's a very special kind of event and is thoroughly enjoyed by everyone. More info available if anyone is interested.
 
Grandpaul, the route is comprehensively surveyed before the event and the route schedule is produced taking into account towns, road works, etc. You select your speed group dependent on the type and age of your motorcycle: A = max speed 50km/hr, B = max speed 60km/hr, C = max speed 70km/hr and D = max 80km/hr.

Your rally board holds the route schedule and speed table on rollers and also holds the stop watches. I use three, one set to the master rally clock and the other two I use to time the mile stones or posts and/or stripes on the road. So you check the route schedule for your start time and place (could be a bridge, sign post, whatever) and required speed; you dial up that speed on the speed table which tells you how many seconds for each kilometer (and also .2 of a km) and how many seconds for 20 stripes on the road. You then try and set that speed as quickly and accurately as possible and check for the next clue which will invariably require another change of speed. This continues for as long as the 'regularity' or 'closed' section lasts. Towns are usually open sections where there are no marshals and the required speed around 35km/hr. Marshal points are set up anywhere along closed sections and the actual times that you pass these positions are stamped and later compared to the computed times you should have pass them. The number of seconds, early or late, are your penalty points.

Hope this makes sense. It's good fun but hard work if you compete seriously.

I'll post a few pics of my rally board and the route schedule so that you can get a better idea.
 
Regarding overseas participants, some clubs look after visitors very well. A mate of mine who has Vincents and Vellos travels abroad to this kind of event regularly and usually leaves his bikes at home because of generous host club members. They get to ride his bikes when in Australia.

Now, timed rides without speedos. Our racing club (WMCC) held these events back in the 70's to get racers onto the street, they were fun. Riding modern bikes of the day with the speedo taped over and your watch confiscated and told to average a certain speed between two points.
Not to mention the BBQ and beer after. :y2:
 

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