67 Bonneville 650 Chopper

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Psycobilly

Member
I am looking at picking up what I was told was originally a 67 T120. It's now an almost 9 foot long hardtail chopper. I know nothing about these bikes specifically, but I am a very competent mechanic on most others. I was just curious what I should look for to start off with. I know the basics are going to need done since it has been stored over 12 years. By that I mean carbs rebuilt, bearings repacked, completely rewired and an oil bag mounted. What I don't know is do these bikes have anything singular about them that I should be concerned about? Namely, any known engine and transmission issues or defects? The frame, suspension and wiring aren't really an issue since none of that is Triumph anymore...
 

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Also, it has great compression, the paint has never seen the road, the tires are new and he says he has a basket of parts that was removed from the bike. It was running and riding 12 years ago when he tore it apart for paint.
 
No disrespect to you, but I consider these creations an abomination and wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.
But if it's your thing then go for it.
The basic engine and transmission are solid and give long service unless they has been abused.
If you just want to get it running do all the basics you mentioned.
 
The '67 Bonnie has no specific "known faults", just that any Triumph big twin before '69 has cam & drivetrain shortcomings that the factory dealt with by Nitriding (hardening).

If the engine is complete, all the core parts in good shape, it's worth $1,000 needing total overhaul. Minimum $2,500 if overhauled by a reputable builder and/or with paperwork provenance for the parts used in the overhaul. Could be worth $3,500 if "top shelf" parts were used, and typical upgrades (hardened cams and radiused followers, etc).

I can't give you a lot of help on the chassis, but the basic frame has little value because TWO CRITICAL THINGS are in evidence:
1. Headstock rake has been changed (chopped, bent and re-welded)
2. Hard tail is welded type (some rigid rear ends can be bolted to the frame)

Rear wheel hub appears to be original (although re-chromed). That's a "plus".

What leftover parts are there? (to either re-incorporate, or sell to recoup build costs)

So, howzabout some more pix?
 
If you want a chopper, this might be a decent one. A test ride will reveal the nature of the steering and handling, my guess is it is not an easy bike to ride.

In the classic chopper market, it has a POSSIBLE value of $5K if it starts, ides, runs, stops and handles well, and if it has a clean title with matching numbers.
 
Before you ride it, pull in the clutch and kick it a few times; after the first kick or two, the starter pedal should "slip through" without engaging the engine. Classic Triumphs can get you in trouble if you don't check this, ESPECIALLY after they've sat.

If all is right with the bike (clean gas, clean carbs, good battery or 2MC capacitor, clean points, and oil tank 3/4 full), the bike should fire in a few kicks (bonus points if it starts on the first kick).

Otherwise,

Flush out the gas tank and overhaul the carbs with new gaskets and viton-tipped float needles. I use the one gallon can of Berryman's Chem Dip, set it in the sun to warm it up, then soak carb parts for 30 minutes. Flush thoroughly with running water. Use fresh mid-grade fuel. Non-ethanol if available. Lube the throttle cables; throttle should snap back when you release it.

Get a BIG tin turkey pan and set it under the engine; pull the sump plug underneath. It's a big nut, angled; USE THE CORRECT SOCKET. Inspect the screen closely before washing it, see if there are any metallic particles, then test with a magnet and see if any are steel. Open the valve lash inspection caps and dump some clean oil in until it flows out the bottom relatively clean. Replace the sump plug.

Drain the oil tank, remove the large screen fitting and check for debris. THOROUGHLY flush the tank with 50/50 Simple Green & water. Look in with a flashlight and make sure it's clean. Tie a small rag to some sort of long instrument and use it to swab out any remaining sludge & residue. Replace everything and re-fill with 2 quarts 10W40 Castrol 4T oil.

Open up the primary side engine cover and drain whatever is in there (likely milky sludge). Note the position of the 3 clutch center screws and remove them, pull out all the plates using a very thin hooked dental tool and/or magnet. Wash the plates in 50/50 Simple Green and water, place them in the sun to dry. Re-install them dry, screw the clutch screws back in to where they were. Adjust the primary chain to just snug, replace the primary cover. Pour in 1/4 cup 10W30.

Check and adjust valve lash by the book. If you don't have a compression tester, you can borrow one from AutoZone. Run a simple cold compression check with both spark plugs removed and the throttle held wide open. As long as both cylinders are above 100PSI and relatively close to each other (10%), you'll be okay as a starting point.

There is a "double nut" plug on the transmission (underneath); pull it and drain the tranny. It will not smell good. Hopefully, what drains out will resemble heavy oil, but it is likely to look more like dark brown mustard. remove the small nut from the drain plug and re-insert it, then slowly pour some Castrol Hypoy oil in until it starts to drool out the small plug nut. Replace the plug nut.

Carefully clean the points, don't even try to adjust them yet, as the bike may run without fiddling with them. It probably doesn't need a battery as long as the large blue 2MC capacitor hasn't burst or bulged excessively. Pull the old spark plugs out and buy new Champion N3C (802) plugs. Check for spark after cleaning the points, I'll bet it will spark after the 2nd or 3rd kick to charge the 2MC capacitor.

[ONLY FOR STANDARD FORKS: Flush the forks by unscrewing the drain screws, holding the front brake lever, and pumping up and down to dispell whatever is in them. Most likely it will be milky sludge, but you might get lucky! pour in 1/4 cup of clean 10W30 in each leg and pump some more to flush them till they drain reasonably clean; then, refill per spec.]

IF the tires are at all sound, air them up to 30 PSI; otherwise, install new tire (I recommend pattern Dunlops, they are well made and very affordable, and look exactly like the originals).

Clean the chain and lube it with good sticky lube, then wipe down the excess.

Adjust front and rear brakes to provide good braking force with as near zero rolling resistance as possible (a fine line, to be sure).

You MIGHT be able to fire the bike up and take it for a spin now!

No, I didn't just type all that, I copied and pasted it from another forum where I just gave the same advice to another new guy...
 
Thanks for the replies and advice everyone. Sorry it's been a few days since I have been on here, so I will try to answer any questions y'all have.
1- This is the only pic I have of it right now, but I may get more in a few days
2- As far as I know, what you see there is all there is. I am getting off of the owner's mother. He says he has a coffin style oil bag, chain, some wiring and maybe a few other small parts, but she doesn't think he does.
3- The engine turns over by hand with VERY good compression, and he said that he had the engine rebuilt around the same time the paint was done. The tires were bought new then also.
4- The frame itself does have a welded on hard tail and a stretched/raked neck. The original chop was done in the early 80's according to the owner who knew the original builder (who passed in the mid 90's). He stripped it to bare metal, reinforced the old welds and had it painted about 8-10 years ago. It's never been on the road since.
5- A lot of the original (ish) wiring is still there, but having sat as long as it has I intend to rewire it for reliability sake. I would like to use a small hidden battery so my lights don't dim at low RPMs, but I also don't want a lot of excess things on the bike.
6- It is a what I would call a "suicide chop", meaning no front brake or fender, no turn signals and only a mechanical drum rear foot brake.
7- My intent is to leave the bike essentially as it is and just get it running and riding. The only things I am planning to change is the addition of forward controls and possibly changing the seat to a springer solo to save my kidneys a little bit.
8- It has a clean title and the frame and engine are original matching numbers (or at least they WERE original).
 
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No disrespect to you, but I consider these creations an abomination and wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.
But if it's your thing then go for it.
The basic engine and transmission are solid and give long service unless they has been abused.
If you just want to get it running do all the basics you mentioned.

Generally, I would agree with you to an extent. The draw I have to this bike is that it's an original retro chop done in the early 80's. The newer styles of "choppers" just aren't right in my eyes. The other reason is I am somewhat of a purist at heart, so I couldn't chop up a nice original bike myself. On the other side of that coin, I can't find a factory bike that suits me, so it tends to be a no-win situation in most cases. My only other choices are to either cut up an original bike to fit me or settle with always being uncomfortable on a factory bike. This gives me a better option since I won't have to do either of those things.
 
Generally, I would agree with you to an extent. The draw I have to this bike is that it's an original retro chop done in the early 80's. The newer styles of "choppers" just aren't right in my eyes. The other reason is I am somewhat of a purist at heart, so I couldn't chop up a nice original bike myself. On the other side of that coin, I can't find a factory bike that suits me, so it tends to be a no-win situation in most cases. My only other choices are to either cut up an original bike to fit me or settle with always being uncomfortable on a factory bike. This gives me a better option since I won't have to do either of those things.
All good reasons to want it.
Enjoy TUP
 
The custom bike scene today is all about the cafe / bobber styles, we seem to have ignored or forgotten the impact that the chopper had on the culture of the 60's and 70's. I think they still have a place in the bike world, but maybe not something I would build or buy.
 
The custom bike scene today is all about the cafe / bobber styles, we seem to have ignored or forgotten the impact that the chopper had on the culture of the 60's and 70's. I think they still have a place in the bike world, but maybe not something I would build or buy.

I agree that the trend has leaned so far toward the cafe/bobber style that we seem to have forgotten the roots. I like the bobber style as well, but I've always had a soft spot for the vintage choppers myself lol
 
Picked up the chop today. The title says it's a 68 ASM and I had one of my friends that has built a few bikes tell me that it has a custom frame, so I wonder if the frame/tank is actually a vintage aftermarket unit. The way the tank mounts is another reason this seems likely, since I wouldn't see anyone fabricating such an elaborate mount system...
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Solid state. Once it's properly installed, it never needs to be touched again.

1. Turn crankshaft to 38 degrees BTDC (BEFORE Top Dead Center) - this is a bit of a fiddle with Triumphs that don't having the timing locator bolt behind the cylinders, and/or don't have a timing window & pointer on the primary cover, and alternator rotor with timing marks.
2. Insert pin in magneto face, all the way through rotor
3. Install magneto
4. tighten rotor bolt on camshaft
5. close magneto and remove pin.
DONE.
 

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