1968 Bonneville

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Sam

Member
Ok, here is my project. This is just how I brought it home. The pics were taken at my friends house in SoCal. He got it from the brother of who could have been the original owner. That person was the one who turned it into a scrambler. My goal is to get it running and put it back to original other than the pipes. I LOVE those pipes. lol My friend tried to start it and was able to get it to cough and sputter, so he pulled the carbs for a cleaning and rebuild. That is where I am at the moment. I do have the rebuild kits for the carbs. The next step is to tear them down, and clean them. I have heard of people using Pine Sol ? I have been reading up on it and its strange to me to say the least.

granpaul has dibs on the fork stiffener. he is looking for something I need, in trade. lol The other part up for trade is the clip on seat. I have found a complete front fender in matching condition. What I still need are the badges, air cleaners, correct seat, hardware for mounting the front fender, and a tail light lens. I just noticed mine has a corner broken out of it. All in good used condition of course. lol

Oh, and could somebody help me identify what my pipes came off of please.

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I am hoping that all I need to buy as far as new parts, other than tires and tubes, are the fork gators, new fuel line kit since its apart anyways, and the handle bar rubber mount kit.
 
Do NOT use pine-Sol! Use Berryman's Chem-Dip from any auto parts store, in the 1 gallon can. Soak ONLY the metal parts for 30 minutes in the sun.

Ok, I need to take the plunge. I should have the 185 wrapped up over the long weekend and then comes the Bonnie !!!HAPPY

So.....with that, what do I need to do to rebuild the carbs? My carb "rebuilding" amounts to pulling the float bowl and seeing how cruddy it is, making sure everything inside moves freely, blowing everything out with aerosol carb cleaner, making sure the slide moves freely, putting it all back together, getting it started and running fuel through it with an additive like seafoam. If the flotbowl is nasty, I try and find a different carb. lol That is not an option this time. I'm running outa cash. :D

I purchased a couple "rebuild kits". I will get a pic of the carbs/kits posted sometime over the weekend.

Any detailed directions would be appreciated. So tell me where to go and how to get there. :y34:
 
Same advise I've repeated at least a hundred times:

Go down to your favorite auto parts supply house and get a gallon can of Berryman's Chem-Dip. Crack the seal on the lid with a screwdriver and let it sit in the sun for a few hours to warm up. Pull apart the carbs keeping the slides matching the bodies together (I etch the top of the slides with "1" and "2", and scribe the same on the cast lip that holds the float pivot pin).

Dip all the metallic parts in the included dipping basket for 30 minutes or so. Have a large tub handy and a garden hose when you are ready to pull out the dipping basket; put it straight in the tub and turn the hose on with a good heavy stream focused right on the dipping basket. Flush well and flush again. Then, blast the bodies dry especially well with compressed air. Dry the rest of the parts and reassemble the carbs with FULL rebuild kits which include new needles.

Check and adjust your float levels by the book.

Vroom vroom!
 
Ok, fork brace off and fender on. Much better IMHO

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Here are the carbs and air filters that came with the bike. Paul, I do not know which carb came off which cylinder. They are stamped with a 9 and a 10 respectively. Also, the carb kits I bought did not come with a needle. BUT, they accidently sent me FOUR kits, so I have some trading stock for the needles if they can be purchased separately.

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I'd go with 3.25x19 front (ribbed pattern) and 4.50x18 rear (universal pattern)

Check the carbs for the little adjusters screws on the sides, you want them facing out for easy adjustment.

I may have a spare set of needles, I'll check.

If it were mine, I'd swap to the float bowls with sediment plug at the bottom for easy draining & cleaning.

Very nice fender, by the way.
 
Just for the heck of it...

Inquiring minds want to know how many parts make up a '68 T120R Bonneville; well, I found out. There may be no way to definitively determine the EXACT count due to the fact that some options were available, and some items, technically, are not "parts" (like keys and tools).
Also, I didn't count each individual wire, terminal and rubber insulated connector in the wiring harness; the entire harness with all connectors is counted as one part. (One of these days I'll count those wires). And, the speedo, tach, some cables, bearings, shock dampers, and key switches are each composed of many parts; these were all counted as one part each.
So,
1,841 actual parts that comprise the bike
4 keys (from new, 2 ignition, 2 fork lock)
16 tools in the complete kit as illustrated in the parts book
11 decals (there may be disagreement on this as to several decals)
10 wire & cable tie strips (I used that many, the book doesn't specify)
Grand total - 1,882 "parts" delivered from the dealer to the original buyer in '68.
This does NOT include a seat strap and grab rail, they were optional or "available".
Also, I counted the two tires, not listed in the parts diagrams; and, I counted the individual parts in some assemblies where some of the little parts are sold as "sets", like points (the individual parts are clearly illustrated).
Too much time on my hands? Nah…
 

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