Also it’s a Mikuni fuel tap, I bet you could track down replacement filters for it. It was probably on many Japanese bikes as well.
01 Triumph Bonneville Carbs
- Thread starter La_leo
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I’d see about cleaning that up before new if you can find the filters. The crud is the rust from the tank in my opinion.
OldRider48
Member
That is nasty looking for sure. You may wind up having a radiator repair shop boil the tank out and coat the inside of the tank. I'd start with the electrolytic procedure 1st then improve on it going forward.
Good luck on sourcing the petcock and screens. When it is all said and done, you'll have a great Made in England, carbureted, 360 degree firing order, proper, air cooled classic.
I hadn't thought about a radiator shop. Just called my local one, turns out they do motorcycle tanks too. The 2 day vinegar soak really did great work, but the rust on the sides and bottom remain. If it was straight see through tank I could really get in it.
So it's 350 to get the tank Coated! Not cheap. And I don't think I can use the electrolysis method because of the baffles that would hit the eletrode
OldRider48
Member
Everything seems expensive these days. It should fix the issue long term though. At least you have a buddy to fix the paint.
Ordered a bore scope for 18 bucks on Amazon. I'll definitely be able to see the tank now
Here is where I'm at: The tank needs another vinegar soak. I think one more and it will be pretty much rust free. I have to order a new fuel tap. I will be breaking down the carbs soon. Gas apparently did go into the crankcase at some point when it was left stored. I will be doing a flush with cheap oil and a can of seafoam soon, maybe tomorrow. In reference to fork oil....do I really need to fully disassemble the forks just to change the fluid? Or can I just suck it out through the top caps? The seals are fine, but the bike is an 01 so I want to change it. I have a laundry list of maintenance procedures, including checking the valve clearance. If they need adjusting, I will for sure let the shop do it. Pulling the cams is more than I'm willing to trust myself with.
The fuel hose (T3620008) needs to be replaced on my bike. There's a little in line filter that doesn't seem to be available except for under a kawasaki part number (49019-1085). Would you guys have any objection to me using an in line k and n fuel filter instead? The small clear plastic ones. I'd have to cut a section of line to fit it but it would be easier to monitor as it got dirty.
Just thought I'd update yall on the progress. The bike is now put back together and runs great. I have taken the carbs off probably 4 times....but, that's the name of the game I guess. I pulled the jets out, cleaned everything, and found one of the ports was stopped up causing a lean condition. Replaced the carb bowl gaskets and installed new stainless hex head screws (top and bottom.) I changed the float needles, but the floats were fine. The upper diaphragms were also still good. My OEM in line fuel filter had deteriorated so I replaced it with Kawasaki 49019-1085.. I changed all 4 the intake rubbers and the fuel lines. I also had to replace the fuel petcock with a Pingel valve.
on the gas tank at a body shop.
Thanks for the update!
You can change the fork fluid yourself. It requires you remove the fork legs from the triple tree. Before you pull them out be sure to unseat the top cap while it's in the triple tree. The key things are making sure the old oil is completely drained, that may require leaving the fork leg upside down for a day. No flush required. And proper oil level with fresh oil. If the specs provide a specific volume you can measure, pour in and then work the air out, or if it provides a level from the top you'll need a tool like in the provided video. The maintenance manual will have the oil specs.
View: https://youtu.be/fOgd83sOaNU
View: https://youtu.be/fOgd83sOaNU
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