Starting Problems

[Markfromcradley]

I have a 2010, Bonneville 865SE, I love the bike and enjoy riding it. I've had it about a year. However, unless the battery is charged up the night before, it sometimes struggles to turn over. I have 2 batteries and alternate between them. I have gone for a ride, come back to the bike and it's struggled to start. The lights come on as soon as the ignition is turned on, I wondered if I could buy a relay, that didn't have the lights come on until the engine was running. Or is it a problem with the starter solenoid. Has anyone else had similar problems?

 

[sikatri]

One of the electric components is failing, regulator perhaps..or ignition coils are weak..

 

[Markfromcradley]

Thanks for reply, do you know how I could check , whether it was the regulator or the ignition coils?

 

[sikatri]

Thanks for reply, do you know how I could check , whether it was the regulator or the ignition coils?

I didn’t really even try figuring out how, my symptoms were pretty classic, so I just went and bought a new regulator. I probably just got the coils at the same time or near it, don’t remember which was first. I did eventually end up getting a new pick up coil. No electrical issues since. The last one I did test and it was bad.
But for the rectifier regulator,
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/blog/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-rectifier/I think I bought a Ricks.

 

[Markfromcradley]

I didn’t really even try figuring out how, my symptoms were pretty classic, so I just went and bought a new regulator. I probably just got the coils at the same time or near it, don’t remember which was first. I did eventually end up getting a new pick up coil. No electrical issues since. The last one I did test and it was bad.
But for the rectifier regulator,
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/blog/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-rectifier/I think I bought a Ricks.

Again thanks for the reply, and I'll have a look at how much it is to change the regulator and the coils. Thanks again.

 

[JS Duchatel]

Do any of you have a delay when starting the bike. (T120)
When pushing start button: Sometimes starts right away, other times there's a delay, but always starts.

 

[Markfromcradley]

Do any of you have a delay when starting the bike. (T120)
When pushing start button: Sometimes starts right away, other times there's a delay, but always starts.

Thanks for reply. It does start right away, with the battery fully charged. Or it just clicks. The starter motor does nothing. or just clicks. Then you can push the start button again, and it starts. Strange. But definately needs a fully charged battery. If its reading say 12 volts on the meter. Nothing, just a click. Then swap for a fully charged battery, reading 12.6 or more away it goes.

 

[JS Duchatel]

Thanks for reply. It does start right away, with the battery fully charged. Or it just clicks. The starter motor does nothing. or just clicks. Then you can push the start button again, and it starts. Strange. But definately needs a fully charged battery. If its reading say 12 volts on the meter. Nothing, just a click. Then swap for a fully charged battery, reading 12.6 or more away it goes.

What I was talking about is the fact that my Triumph T120 right from when I bought it has sometimes a delay issue, sometimes it starts right away, other times it delays 2 to 4 seconds. I have 17.000 km on this bike (2016 model) and it has done this since it was new. My closest dealer is 600 km plus away from me, so I never went back to the dealer. I understand your problem, it's not the same as mine. I was just wondering if there are other Triumph owners with the "delay" issue. I am not concerned about it, just curieus.

 

[JerryP]

If you are in the states a parts store like Auto Zone can lend you an OBD reader. The connector is the black vinyl covered plug just rear of the battery. When I owned a 900 air cooled they were nice enough to reset my ECU. As I recall my Scrambler had two coils and I believe the Bonne has but one. In any case lift the tank up a bit and check the coil wire, the engine heat may cause insulation cracking and or frame rub around the headstock. Also check sensors (kick stand) as they get corrosion from road moisture.

 

[OldRider48]

I have a 2010, Bonneville 865SE, I love the bike and enjoy riding it. I've had it about a year. However, unless the battery is charged up the night before, it sometimes struggles to turn over. I have 2 batteries and alternate between them. I have gone for a ride, come back to the bike and it's struggled to start. The lights come on as soon as the ignition is turned on, I wondered if I could buy a relay, that didn't have the lights come on until the engine was running. Or is it a problem with the starter solenoid. Has anyone else had similar problems?

Have you checked the battery while the engine is running to be sure the bike is charging your battery?
If so, then all the other recommendations above seem great.

 

[Rolandrat]

Buy a new battery sounds like yours are both losing charge

 

[Fordfixer]

Had similar concerns with my 2013 Bonnie 865SE . A new

Yuasa YUAM6212B YT12B-BS Battery did wonders as did a battery maintainer​

OptiMATE 1 DUO, TM-409, 4-step 12V 0.6A Battery charger-maintainer . Prefer buying Yuasa as some of the part store brands end up being crap . Been down this path with other bikes over the years. Bite the bullet and pay premium price for a premium battery.​

 

[triumph900]

What I was talking about is the fact that my Triumph T120 right from when I bought it has sometimes a delay issue, sometimes it starts right away, other times it delays 2 to 4 seconds. I have 17.000 km on this bike (2016 model) and it has done this since it was new. My closest dealer is 600 km plus away from me, so I never went back to the dealer. I understand your problem, it's not the same as mine. I was just wondering if there are other Triumph owners with the "delay" issue. I am not concerned about it, just curieus.

My T120 just started doing this. Hit the starter and I occasionally get a click. A retry gets it going, but I haven't figured it out yet. I have check battery, and it's on a tender. I have a load tester and the battery seems ok. Seems every time I have the tester connected the bike starts. I'm leaning toward the battery as the culprit since it's the original.

 

[OldRider48]

Have you checked the battery while the engine is running to be sure the bike is charging your battery?
If so, then all the other recommendations above seem great.

Stick a multimeter/Voltmeter on your battery while the bike is running to see what amount of charge
the battery is receiving. This should be the 1st thing you do. It should be charging 13+ volts or so while running. If it is charging adequately then take both batteries to have them load tested. 1st step is always to be sure your charging system is recharging your batteries adequately. 2nd step is to have the batteries "load tested". If those 2 items are OK then look for other causes.

 

[Markfromcradley]

Thanks for all your replies. There is 2 other threads on here , which state the same or similar problem. The one I read says that when the ignition is turned on, the main headlight comes on. Drawing power from the battery. If the bike ECU doesn't register enough power, it just clicks , like mine. If my batteries are12.5 volts, it starts, and when running gives out 13.5 volts. according to my volt meter. I bought an easy start headlight control module from New Bonneville. Which is based in the USA. It came quite quickly and is easy to fit. Just fits in-line between the headlight connector. Its a bit tight in the headlight so you have careful with the wires. But now the dip in voltage when the ignition is turned on is less. And so far , no problems starting running and re-starting. I'll post one last reply. Just to say everything's ok after some time running. Hope this is some use to other Triumph owners.

 

[Red Dog]

I'm with those who say at least take it to an auto parts store, or you can check it. If you don't have 14.4 volts across the the battery terminals, new battery time.

 

[Markfromcradley]

I'm with those who say at least take it to an auto parts store, or you can check it. If you don't have 14.4 volts across the the battery terminals, new battery time.

According to my voltmeter, not sure , how accurate it is. It cost about £50.00 pounds I think . It says 13.8 volts when running. So a bit below what you suggest. I'll keep an eye on the charging and starting and after a while, leave another post. Thanks for your reply.

 

[OldRider48]

According to my voltmeter, not sure , how accurate it is. It cost about £50.00 pounds I think . It says 13.8 volts when running. So a bit below what you suggest. I'll keep an eye on the charging and starting and after a while, leave another post. Thanks for your reply.

13.8 volts running is fine. It shows your charging system is working as it should. The battery is considered "fully charged" @ 12.8 volts. (Measured when not running)
If everything continues on as successful as you've been, you can either let it be or as a last
step have the batteries load tested. Especially if you don't have the age or history on the batteries. A good battery shouldn't "care" if your light is on or not, that is the way all newer bikes are designed. I prefer the old way with a separate switch. I have 1 bike with a switch and 2 without.

My gut feeling is your batteries are getting older and not holding a full charge as long as before.

 

[sikatri]

13.8 volts running is fine. It shows your charging system is working as it should. The battery is considered "fully charged" @ 12.8 volts. (Measured when not running)
If everything continues on as successful as you've been, you can either let it be or as a last
step have the batteries load tested. Especially if you don't have the age or history on the batteries. A good battery shouldn't "care" if your light is on or not, that is the way all newer bikes are designed. I prefer the old way with a separate switch. I have 1 bike with a switch and 2 without.

My gut feeling is your batteries are getting older and not holding a full charge as long as before.

I share that thought. Perhaps a temporary fix reducing load.

 

[Markfromcradley]

I share that thought. Perhaps a temporary fix reducing load.

Thanks for reply, going back perhaps, 40 years to when I had a Yamaha dt125 and a Suzuki x7. They both struggled to start if you had the light on. Turn it off and they'd start. I would prefer, to turn the light on myself. I've started it a few times since fitting the relay and it starts easily. Time I guess will tell if either of my batteries are on the way out. I would take them to be tested, there's a place in my town which would do this. But working a lot just lately so haven't had time. but I agree with everything people have said. Thanks for the replies.