Rock's Bonneville T140v Project

[Rock]

Hoping for some assistance.

I'm now the owner of a Bonneville which needs a full going over, after having been left in the open for a number of years.

Rings and pistons have been replaced, but as the head is currently off, I'd like to lift off the barrels to replace the bottom gasket and fit new 12 point barrel to crankcase nut set.

While off I'll prepare and re paint the barrels.

ITEM 1: I need to clean out the heavily rusted threads of 10 barrel head bolt holes.
I'm having trouble screwing in the head bolts (by hand at this stage).

How should I go about cleaning out these threads?

So far I've applied a few sprays of wd40.

The barrel is marked, "BIR 001 71-3337"

If I use a tap die, is it 1/2in NF20?


ITEM 2: The drive chain was left out in the rain and has quite a bit of rust on it.

Naturally, after cleaning it, if there are signs of significant wear I'll bin it.

How should I go about cleaning it?

Should I place it in a bucket of petrol first, or maybe heavily spray it with WD40?


ITEM 3: I'm learning that gasket sets can come from a number of producers other than OEM parts.

Over here, it seems, choosing OEM involves selecting and paying for individually numbered parts.

I prefer getting a kit with a corresponding good price.

I came across, what appears to be good value, a complete gasket, o ring, and seal kit made in Taiwan from EMGO.

Are they all OK or should some be avoided?

Living in Australia, British items can be expensive, and U.S. items can have a very high postage cost.

Any recommendations for complete gasket kits?


ITEM 4: I find the Triumph Speed Twin motor a thing of beauty and the centre piece of any Triumph.

I'll be servicing, cleaning and reassembling the engine on my T140V and would like to dress it up.

I'd like to source:

Stainless Steel allen head screws & dome nuts for the Engine Cases, & tappet covers &
Stainless Steel or plated barrel to crank nuts.

Can anyone recommend any value for money kits?

Cheers,

Rock

 

[Rocky]

I don't know of any kits as such, but if you look in the adverts of Classic Bike magazine for example, there are usually vendors who make and sell stainless items.
Years ago I sourced such items from Andy Molnar in the UK, but I haven't researched the market in probably 15 years.

I haven't done a restoration in 15 years so will have to let others jump in on this question.

WD40 and a wire brush will probably get most of it off, but if it were me I would buy a new chain.
If it's an O-ring type chain then the grease may still be inside the rollers, but if it's a standard chain you don't know how bad it is in there.
I wouldn't risk it and would bite the bullet for a new one.

I've never had to deal with this problem so a more experienced person like Grandpaul is the best one to have a go at this one.

 

[grandpaul]

I took the liberty of combining the various threads into one build thread. I know it's maybe not as easy to get exposure on one particular question, but the original posting method might mean 897 different threads and that would be a mess trying to "collect your thoughts" on this project.

My first bit of advice is to obtain the correct year shop manual and parts book, or "Kim The CD Man" Triumph disc set.

Second, carefully catalog the obvious issues, then go through each subsystem and component, alongside the parts book, and jot down all the part numbers, quantities and part descriptions.

Only once you've sorted EVERYTHING you'll need, should you actually place a parts order. Otherwise you'll pay WAY too much for postage/shipping.

1. Cleaning the head bolt holes in the cylinder is easy; IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PROPER THREAD TAP, take one head bolt (or a duplicate threaded bolt) and cut a longitudinal slot in one side of the threaded end, cut to about 1/3 of the diameter at the tip, tapering off to about 4 or 5 threads (1/4" or so) up into the threads. That will create a thread chaser. Dip the tip in oil before chasing a thread, and clean the slot out after screwing it in 1/2 way, and after you get it all the way in.

2. Don't re-use that chain. A new replacement can be had for about $40 US

3. I use Emgo gaskets almost exclusively and have done so for over 35 years with excellent success.

4. Any distributor that sells Emgo products will most likely sell good quality/value stainless screw kits.

Great start to a build thread!

 

[Rocky]

Good post GP

 

[Rock]

I took the liberty of combining the various threads into one build thread. I know it's maybe not as easy to get exposure on one particular question, but the original posting method might mean 897 different threads and that would be a mess trying to "collect your thoughts" on this project.

My first bit of advice is to obtain the correct year shop manual and parts book, or "Kim The CD Man" Triumph disc set.

Second, carefully catalog the obvious issues, then go through each subsystem and component, alongside the parts book, and jot down all the part numbers, quantities and part descriptions.

Only once you've sorted EVERYTHING you'll need, should you actually place a parts order. Otherwise you'll pay WAY too much for postage/shipping.

1. Cleaning the head bolt holes in the cylinder is easy; IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PROPER THREAD TAP, take one head bolt (or a duplicate threaded bolt) and cut a longitudinal slot in one side of the threaded end, cut to about 1/3 of the diameter at the tip, tapering off to about 4 or 5 threads (1/4" or so) up into the threads. That will create a thread chaser. Dip the tip in oil before chasing a thread, and clean the slot out after screwing it in 1/2 way, and after you get it all the way in.

2. Don't re-use that chain. A new replacement can be had for about $40 US

3. I use Emgo gaskets almost exclusively and have done so for over 35 years with excellent success.

4. Any distributor that sells Emgo products will most likely sell good quality/value stainless screw kits.

Great start to a build thread!

Thanks G P.

Great feedback.

I wanted to avoid a new chain at this stage but this is probably unavoidable.
I was taught that sprockets should also be replaced when fitting a new drive chain, otherwise high wear occurs.

It's not just the cost, but also means pulling out all the clutch assembly and the rear cover to get to the engine sprocket.

I have thread tap.
It's full block 1/2 in NF 20.

It's just that I don't know if the barrels are this size.
Is there an online reference to the thread type for this barrel?
Barrel is marked "BIR 001 71-3337".

Going by the engine/frame number, my motorcycle was manufactured in April 1977.

 

[grandpaul]

Sorry I don't have time to research those threads, but maybe a google search will help?

If you look in the resource section, there is a link to online parts books. You can always research there and it might give the spec in the parts listing (some parts do, others don't)