That is really working well. 
I have learned something.
I have learned something.
My 1977 T140V project
- Thread starter DuffCon
- Start date
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How long do you think this process may take
Well according to what I've read, more amps = faster. Most people are using a standard 10 amp charger. I'm using a 1 AMP tapering charger so it's a lot slower than it could be. Apparently using too high an amperage will damage the metal so I'm fine with low and slow. The charger I am using also has the advantage of being free. The only thing that is really costing me anything is the washing soda which was somewhere around $5 and the big advantage is that there are no dangerous chemicals; I'm pouring the water in the ground.
Basically no work, except to change the water daily (mostly to check on progress)
Basically no work, except to change the water daily (mostly to check on progress)
Well I suppose if you in no hurry than this methods seems fine and friendly to everything involved
I'm going to have to round up all my chargers (4, I think), set up some space on my spare parts counter, remove a few gas tanks, and start a lengthy tank refurb process on a half-dozen of my tanks...
very impressive
thanks for the info.
thanks for the info.
Its looking very good, certainly seems an easier way to remove rust than I have used in the past.
Looking very, very good. I will remember this technique.
Yep, this is a virtually flawless system, whereas ANY tank liner treatment can and will fail if the PREP WORK isn't perfect. Well, if you are going to go through all the prep work that basically should eliminate any existing rust, then what is the point of wasting $50+ on liner?
After getting it all nice and clean, the key to keeping it that way is to keep your gas tank as full as possible when the bike will sit for any length of time; that also means, add Sta-Bil to the gas (or any good fuel stabiliser)
After getting it all nice and clean, the key to keeping it that way is to keep your gas tank as full as possible when the bike will sit for any length of time; that also means, add Sta-Bil to the gas (or any good fuel stabiliser)
So, I removed the clean tank and ran to the gas station. Filled it up, brand new gas cap and everything seems fine. About 8 hours later, this is what I see:
Before:
After:
Am I crazy or is it rusting? Or is it simply discoloration for the fuel? Keep in mind from the "before" pic the tank has some paint overspray inside that did not come off with the rust.
Before:
After:
Am I crazy or is it rusting? Or is it simply discoloration for the fuel? Keep in mind from the "before" pic the tank has some paint overspray inside that did not come off with the rust.
Wow, 3 days and no reply?
OK, I'll comment but you may not like it.
I think people worry way too much about a bit of rust in a tank.
You have most or possibly all of the rust out now so keep it full and worry again if the tank starts to weep.
I've seen plenty of rusty tanks holding fuel without any problem, it's only when they're left empty or holding water that problems start.
Wow, 3 days and no reply?
dont take it as lack of interest,I for one thought the question was rhetorical.
In a normal situation, is there any form of rust protection in a fuel tank that may be missing in yours.?
Have you seen anymore development (in the last three days ) or taken any steps to verify that it is in fact rust forming and not just discoluration from the fuel.( i remember in the days of leaded gas,our fuel was pink,now the unleaded crap we get is a distinct yellowy brown.) What colour is yours.
And last but not least, did you thoroughly rinse out the tank and remove all traces of moisture before you refilled it.
No real answers here I know,probably just a few thoughts to kick around.
Well that's where i think I screwed up; rinsed out tank and shook pretty dry, but obviously some moisture in there, after the last go around I had flash rust in the time it took for it to air dry, so this time I figured that it was better to get has in there ASAP. Probably right about discolored gas, but I'd have to pull a sample. Chances are that there is some rust in there.
If your ever in that situation again,as soon as you have rinsed and shaken dry your tank,throw a litre of meths or isotropyl alcohol in there and give it a good swirl around then dump that.
In actual fact,I would be inclined to pour off most of that fuel if there is a chance of water in it, and go the meths route anyway, otherwise you will end up with water in your carbs,unless you are running water traps.
Yeah, upon researching further, I should have done that. The good thing about the electrolysis method is that it can easily be done again and correct this.
Stupid question - water rests at the bottom, so whatever is in there is a the bottom, so if there was really a tablespoon of water wouldn't draining off a bit with the reserve petcock get rid of it?
Stupid question - water rests at the bottom, so whatever is in there is a the bottom, so if there was really a tablespoon of water wouldn't draining off a bit with the reserve petcock get rid of it?
Dump a can/bottle of dry gas in there to remove any moisture in the fuel.
Sold at any auto parts place.
Sold at any auto parts place.
It would get all but the bit up to the bottom of the outlet.
Unfortuanately,it only takes a few drops to upset your carbs.
I would do as AJ suggested since it will be a while till you start using that fuel.If you were running the bike now,a cupfull of meths would break the surface tension of the water and allow it to pass thru the carbs and motor with no ill effect, but if you aren't,you want to use that drygas so you dont encourage more rust.
