Solid advice, don’t look for extra work. LoL. Some things don’t need fixing.
Restoring & Modifying 1971 OIF TR120
- Thread starter NM Bonny
- Start date
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They don't, but given my predilections one shouldn't be surprised if when I post pics of the repositioned lever, it appears to have sprouted a zerk fitting...
Seriously, though, it's easy to drill and tap a hole, and 10 seconds with a grease gun rather than 15 minutes to R&R the bolt to lube it would be nice. The only impediment might be that the casting isn't thick enough to prevent a fitting's threads from hitting the pivot bolt. We'll see...
On the dash front, I'm now remembering that the reason I bought .050" 5032 aluminum for the side covers was the .063" I'd originally bought was too thick for my bead roller (max in aluminum is .050"), and also wouldn't have formed the ignition switch indentation so nicely that I put in the R/H side cover.
So, if I end up making a custom dash--and unless I want to order another sheet of .050" material (only $20)--I won't be able to put nifty stiffening beads on the panel. Bummer...
If I do make a custom dash, I'm thinking of applying that flat black wrinkle paint to it rather than polishing it, so I don't get blinded when looking down at the clocks and warning lights.
Attached is a picture of this sort of dash fitted to a modern Triumph with the same fairing I purchased. Looks pretty good.
I bought two 8mm aluminum LED lights (red for oil, blue for high beam) that can either fit into the rubberized P-clamp bushes if I'm forced to use clip-ons, or go between the gauges if I make a custom dash. They're sufficiently bright to see easily in daylight.
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Well of course I support improvements, but my cash is limited. So pick and choose. LoL.
Mine, too--newly retired and on a fixed income. But that's why DIY stuff is so great: you not only get what you want, it's far cheaper.
So, I took some more measurements and will be very surprised if I get away with the P-clamp flat bar--and I'm not keen on clubmans. I might be able to pivot these so the gentle rearward sweep aims downward, but I'm not sanguine about that panning out.
Regardless, I think I've decided to make up a custom dash--both to save money, and because although I really like the cool CNC versions Rudy alerted us to, I want the gauges closer together.
So: here are pics showing rough layout and attachment points. This mock-up assumes clip-ons and LEDs in place of 5/16" P-clamp bolts--but I may not find that sufficiently secure. Might move the LEDs around on the dash...
I have attached the version with four bolts affixing the dash, probably much better...
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I’m in the same club, newly retired! Still too young to collect. Events led to my retirement a bit earlier than I wanted, 64yo, but my wife is a bit older and retired some years ago and now receiving her pension. So I do all the miscellaneous maintenance, work on cars, house, motorcycle and generally do what she says. Spent this morning looking for one of my voltage meters in the garage.
Excellent idea on the custom dash plate.
All rightee then...
Got the new pegs fitted, and decided to put them both in the same place on both sides: 2nd hole down on the engine mount.
I must say that this is how the motorcycle should have been set up. But that subjective assessment aside, certainly the low bars feel very natural now, and not at all like I am leaning uncomfortably forward, as they did with the forward-mounted OEM footpeg position.
No pressure on my lower back any more, and my neck and shoulders feel better: I'm anticipating the wind-on-the-chest dynamic lightening the load on the wrists--but it feels very good right now even sitting still.
The clearance is just right on the L/H side, and it looks like I'll be able to keep the full length of the OEM brake pedal arm--and with it, plenty of leverage for the rear drum, as designed.
As you can see, with the T160 kick start lever, there should be no contact with my calf muscle in the stowed position.
Finally, the rubber on these well-made pegs is identical to what's on the OEM Triumph passenger pegs. So, the rear-sets should look very natural when finished.
Next, I'll make up the pivot plate. The provision for the brake light switch will be a simple piece of angle iron bolted to the hole that used to receive the passenger peg--but I'll have to fashion new muffler-and-footpeg mounts--or modify the existing ones--which in my case will be custom-fitted to accommodate the Dunstall replicas.
Got the new pegs fitted, and decided to put them both in the same place on both sides: 2nd hole down on the engine mount.
I must say that this is how the motorcycle should have been set up. But that subjective assessment aside, certainly the low bars feel very natural now, and not at all like I am leaning uncomfortably forward, as they did with the forward-mounted OEM footpeg position.
No pressure on my lower back any more, and my neck and shoulders feel better: I'm anticipating the wind-on-the-chest dynamic lightening the load on the wrists--but it feels very good right now even sitting still.
The clearance is just right on the L/H side, and it looks like I'll be able to keep the full length of the OEM brake pedal arm--and with it, plenty of leverage for the rear drum, as designed.
As you can see, with the T160 kick start lever, there should be no contact with my calf muscle in the stowed position.
Finally, the rubber on these well-made pegs is identical to what's on the OEM Triumph passenger pegs. So, the rear-sets should look very natural when finished.
Next, I'll make up the pivot plate. The provision for the brake light switch will be a simple piece of angle iron bolted to the hole that used to receive the passenger peg--but I'll have to fashion new muffler-and-footpeg mounts--or modify the existing ones--which in my case will be custom-fitted to accommodate the Dunstall replicas.
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Last effort of the day...
This is my sketch of the bolt-on brake lever pivot plate, which is designed to slide into place and be locked down by a single bolt passing through the existing passenger peg hole.
The way this works is short angle-iron lugs welded to the rear of the plate allow the plate to be inserted in the larger, forward part of the triangle--then slid rearward until the aft hole lines up, at which point the lugs lock the affair into place in an inboard/outboard plane.
Naturally, I'll use a spacer behind the plate to apply pressure to the tab that current holds the peg pinion bolt and muffler mount...
Voila, no welding on the frame and a rigid mount. Once the pipes get here (and I have time), I'll determine whether the existing muffler mounting plates will work (they'd be clamped on the rear of the foot-peg tab), or if I'll need to modify or replace them.
I may have to, as they'll now be handling the twisting load of passenger pegs...
This is my sketch of the bolt-on brake lever pivot plate, which is designed to slide into place and be locked down by a single bolt passing through the existing passenger peg hole.
The way this works is short angle-iron lugs welded to the rear of the plate allow the plate to be inserted in the larger, forward part of the triangle--then slid rearward until the aft hole lines up, at which point the lugs lock the affair into place in an inboard/outboard plane.
Naturally, I'll use a spacer behind the plate to apply pressure to the tab that current holds the peg pinion bolt and muffler mount...
Voila, no welding on the frame and a rigid mount. Once the pipes get here (and I have time), I'll determine whether the existing muffler mounting plates will work (they'd be clamped on the rear of the foot-peg tab), or if I'll need to modify or replace them.
I may have to, as they'll now be handling the twisting load of passenger pegs...
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But a bright high beam warning will be a distraction at night ...
This exercised BSA from time to time - certainly Rocket 3 high beam lights were fitted with a 24V bulb. Eventually the T160 swapped from green to more common blue for high beam and Lucas supplied the coloured shade with a diffuser.
But a bright high beam warning will be a distraction at night ...
Good point. However, the LED is recessed in these particular lights, so they're kind of directional, if that makes sense--far brighter if you're directly in line with the narrow beam, but merely visible if not.
At any rate, I'm leaning toward the second layout in post #364, which would put the blue high-beam indicator between and above the center of the gauges. Given the relatively flat angle of the dash I think I'd avoid a problem--but we'll soon see whether it's too bright or just right.
T160 kicker en route from Klempf. Eager to see how it works out; thanks again.
The T140 L/H shifter came in, and it works as anticipated: much better clearance than the OEM shifter at the arched cover--no contact at all--and the peg is right where the reinforced shifter patch on my boot's toe ends up with the new rear-sets.
Of course, I'll have to get used to the 1 up, 3 down pattern. But frankly I don't think that's going to be any more of an adjustment than a R/H lever...
The unbalanced pipes also came in and look good... but for a couple of very small nicks or defects. They are LF Harris and well-made pipes, but I need to examine the spots with my magnifiers in the daylight, because to my mind there's a difference between a teensy nick suffered at the factory during preparation for shipping, etc.--which I could live with--and poor prep prior to plating.
The latter could (at least conceivably) lead to early failure of the plating, i.e., flaking off in that area. KM Jones agreed pay for return shipping if I'm not satisfied, so he's being great about letting me see them in person. But we'll see if I can discern what the spots are to inform a decision.
Of course, I'll have to get used to the 1 up, 3 down pattern. But frankly I don't think that's going to be any more of an adjustment than a R/H lever...
The unbalanced pipes also came in and look good... but for a couple of very small nicks or defects. They are LF Harris and well-made pipes, but I need to examine the spots with my magnifiers in the daylight, because to my mind there's a difference between a teensy nick suffered at the factory during preparation for shipping, etc.--which I could live with--and poor prep prior to plating.
The latter could (at least conceivably) lead to early failure of the plating, i.e., flaking off in that area. KM Jones agreed pay for return shipping if I'm not satisfied, so he's being great about letting me see them in person. But we'll see if I can discern what the spots are to inform a decision.
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Yeah, those pipes are going back. I will wait for another set that's perfect. TBS is also waiting for them, on back order from the UK.
More progress: I made the pieces for the bracket to house the brake lever pivot and brake light switch from some 3/16" steel I had used for the fuel tank painting jig. This is the inside view; the stud is just a sawed-off 3/8-24 bolt.
You can see that it shifted a little from the initial sketch above, as I needed a bit more room for the brake light switch.
Mañana, I'll just break edges, scuff off the anti-rust coating, weld on the stud and positioning lugs, paint it black, and bolt it on (there will be a little spacer on the stud to take up the room between the frame tubes and dropout). Then, merely shorten the actuation rod, adjust the brake light switch...
...and these rear-set controls are finished.
I will take bird's eye view photos of the finished part and mark it up with measurements, in case anyone wishes to replicate this DIY rear-set conversion. It's not very difficult or expensive to do, and it puts the pegs right beneath your center of gravity. Better than OEM positioning in my view, even if you aren't assuming a more 'sporting' riding posture.
More progress: I made the pieces for the bracket to house the brake lever pivot and brake light switch from some 3/16" steel I had used for the fuel tank painting jig. This is the inside view; the stud is just a sawed-off 3/8-24 bolt.
You can see that it shifted a little from the initial sketch above, as I needed a bit more room for the brake light switch.
Mañana, I'll just break edges, scuff off the anti-rust coating, weld on the stud and positioning lugs, paint it black, and bolt it on (there will be a little spacer on the stud to take up the room between the frame tubes and dropout). Then, merely shorten the actuation rod, adjust the brake light switch...
...and these rear-set controls are finished.
I will take bird's eye view photos of the finished part and mark it up with measurements, in case anyone wishes to replicate this DIY rear-set conversion. It's not very difficult or expensive to do, and it puts the pegs right beneath your center of gravity. Better than OEM positioning in my view, even if you aren't assuming a more 'sporting' riding posture.
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Beautiful work, can’t wait to see it completed
This is fabulous fun! Can’t wait to see the totality!
Thanks, Gents. Glad you're enjoying the project.
Here are photos of the finished rear-sets L/H side (R/H side is pictured in earlier posts). The T160 kick start lever gets here tomorrow or the next day...
At last, sitting on this bike feels like my CB750 did, with the footpegs directly under the front edge of the seat and one's center of gravity. Much better for rising from the saddle for potholes or uneven ground without adjusting your balance, and just an all-around better riding position IMHO (though that's entirely subjective).
As you can see, the brake light switch operates as usual: adjust the threaded rod, then adjust the actuating bolt on the brake lever to make the light come on when you tap the pedal. I put a little jog in the rod after shortening so it would work more smoothly, then just bent an 'L' in it and drilled the cotter hole.
The other mod I did was to cut the narrower spacer portion off the lever and shift it to the outside, so the pedal was shifted closer to the primary case. There's a larger hole in the engine mount that accepts this portion of the lever, and the pivot bolt's shoulder actually affixes to an inner plate--so I had to make up the difference somehow. This was the simplest route.
No zerk fitting: I decided that as Rudy pointed out, the plated pivot pin is very hard, and greasing it involves loosening one nylock nut, so I left it as-is.
Now, where's that fairing...?
Here are photos of the finished rear-sets L/H side (R/H side is pictured in earlier posts). The T160 kick start lever gets here tomorrow or the next day...
At last, sitting on this bike feels like my CB750 did, with the footpegs directly under the front edge of the seat and one's center of gravity. Much better for rising from the saddle for potholes or uneven ground without adjusting your balance, and just an all-around better riding position IMHO (though that's entirely subjective).
As you can see, the brake light switch operates as usual: adjust the threaded rod, then adjust the actuating bolt on the brake lever to make the light come on when you tap the pedal. I put a little jog in the rod after shortening so it would work more smoothly, then just bent an 'L' in it and drilled the cotter hole.
The other mod I did was to cut the narrower spacer portion off the lever and shift it to the outside, so the pedal was shifted closer to the primary case. There's a larger hole in the engine mount that accepts this portion of the lever, and the pivot bolt's shoulder actually affixes to an inner plate--so I had to make up the difference somehow. This was the simplest route.
No zerk fitting: I decided that as Rudy pointed out, the plated pivot pin is very hard, and greasing it involves loosening one nylock nut, so I left it as-is.
Now, where's that fairing...?
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Good progress. Thanks for keeping us updated.
Excellent!
Omigosh am I glad that I sent back the XS1B kicker. This T160 lever just slips right on and, to answer Rudy's query, the angle without changing anything is just fine. As you can see in the 1st pic, it angles back, whereas my shin angles forward from the rear-set peg... perfect.
The inboard/outboard clearance right at the pivot is actually a little less than the '71 lever, but it doesn't contact my boot and shifting works fine. Pivoted out for starting, it clears the folded peg by a mile--and looks like there'll be no issues with the mufflers at all.
The rear-sets are done!
The inboard/outboard clearance right at the pivot is actually a little less than the '71 lever, but it doesn't contact my boot and shifting works fine. Pivoted out for starting, it clears the folded peg by a mile--and looks like there'll be no issues with the mufflers at all.
The rear-sets are done!
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You know, perhaps the shifter is a touch short, given the additional protrusion of the T160 lever's pivot mechanism.
We'll see when I start riding the machine. If I find my boot slipping off when shifting up into 1st, I could just remove the rubber, cut the chrome mushroom-shaped end off, weld in a little piece of steel round stock to achieve the precise length I wanted, then trim the existing rubber and another new rubber to form a single, longer one to cover the weld.
You wouldn't notice unless looking very closely at the joined rubber bits...
We'll see when I start riding the machine. If I find my boot slipping off when shifting up into 1st, I could just remove the rubber, cut the chrome mushroom-shaped end off, weld in a little piece of steel round stock to achieve the precise length I wanted, then trim the existing rubber and another new rubber to form a single, longer one to cover the weld.
You wouldn't notice unless looking very closely at the joined rubber bits...
Really love your approach and attitude on this build!
Gosh knows when Morgo will stock their 750cc big bore kit again (I'm on the waitlist), but whenever I wear out the existing top end...
Are the Unit 650's stock valve sizes adequate for the 100cc increase? Assuming the oil pressure is up to snuff, I hadn't intended to touch the bottom end. But while the head is off, aside from inspecting the seats, valves, guides, springs and rockers, I wonder whether folks generally increase the size of either the intake or exhaust valves?
Are the Unit 650's stock valve sizes adequate for the 100cc increase? Assuming the oil pressure is up to snuff, I hadn't intended to touch the bottom end. But while the head is off, aside from inspecting the seats, valves, guides, springs and rockers, I wonder whether folks generally increase the size of either the intake or exhaust valves?
