Restoring & Modifying 1971 OIF TR120

[sikatri]

Both the two- and three-gauge versions are machined from a flat piece of aluminum plate (see pics). The OEM pressed steel gauge mounts tilt up slightly--though easily bent. But the advantage of those is that without the OEM headlamp mount's acorn nuts, I could pivot them inward even until touching if I wanted (just have to cut new notches to orient the gauges).

Yes, I'm a little concerned about the master, though mine is fairly low profile. Of course you're right: I just have to wait until the thing arrives...

Yep. For my model the fairing vendor had a fairly accurate list of items, but it wasn’t a hundred percent. Nothing that couldn’t be addressed as is evident by getting it all together. Turn signals on mine likely wouldn’t have worked as is, but I had already switched them out. I still ended up relocating them to a different place. It’s fun stuff to mod. My intention is to create a bike for me, it’ll never be a collector’s item. LoL.

 

[NM Bonny]

Yep. For my model the fairing vendor had a fairly accurate list of items, but it wasn’t a hundred percent. Nothing that couldn’t be addressed as is evident by getting it all together. Turn signals on mine likely wouldn’t have worked as is, but I had already switched them out. I still ended up relocating them to a different place. It’s fun stuff to mod. My intention is to create a bike for me, it’ll never be a collector’s item. LoL.

I'm of the same mind: this bike is for me to ride for the balance of my life (or anyway until the gas runs out).

Mirrors are a good example: does one go with one or two bar-ends (my leaning), like this '76 Ducati 900SS whose fairing was the inspiration for the one I bought from Omega?

Interestingly, he's got the same shape of mirror that came on my Bonny, but he's swiveled the mirror downward. Looks pretty good. Note the full rear fender, which I also intend to keep...

 

[Rudie]

Mirrors
one or two

I prefer two, inexperienced and thoughtless riders who position their bikes where they cannot be seen in one mirror will always be with us ...

bar-ends

One problem with those is if you ever drop the bike even tripping over, the low side mirror is trashed - (seven years' bad luck?).

Reevu helmet?

 

[NM Bonny]

Took a two-hour ride today on the '51 FL, AKA "The Paint Shaker," and was reminded of both why I love vintage motorcycles and why I'm looking forward to riding this OIF Unit 650.

I feel, relaxing at home with a cup of Earl Gray, like I've been in a rugby game. Riding that 74" rigid-tail beast is invigorating and definitely reminds you that you're alive but it's also like an extended wrestling match.

Just moving the two bikes around the garage is night-and-day different, and I'm anticipating that the featherweight Bonny--with its precise OIF handling, Hagon-enriched rear suspension, upgraded new front brake, and aluminum fairing piercing the NM winds--will be a dream.

 

[NM Bonny]

On the rear-sets...

I have determined that simply inserting passenger pegs into the second bolt hole down on the engine mounts--on both sides--should net a comfortable riding position with low bars. (1st pic)

On the L/H side, the OEM brake lever should work either as is, or with a minor adjustment, once mounted to the passenger peg loop as mentioned earlier.

On the R/H side, as you can see the angle of the kick start lever is uncomfortable against my calf muscle. However, I've done some more reading and it looks to me like a lever from my first vertical twin back in the late '70s, the Yamaha XS1B 650, is the best bet.

Far cheaper than the T160 lever, it arguably lays closer to the tranny, and it sounds like the mods needed to install it are straightforward. I got one new for $41, and can return it if the profile and/or angle isn't as ideal as it looks (2nd pic).

As for the pegs themselves:

I found a set of good used Bonneville passenger pegs for $15 but with shipping and new rubbers, may well go with this $38 aftermarket set (3rd pic) whose critical dimensions are nearly identical: 4-1/2" footrest, 2" pillion. I looked at aluminum pegs but I like rubber cushioning and grip, as I actually have to stand up traversing the dirt road off the highway.

I'm waiting to order them until the kick lever gets here, so I can confirm whether the sweep of the lever will clear the folded peg--and my OEM muffler, which I believe is a bit fatter toward the front end than the Dunstall replicas.

 

[Rudie]

Triples Rule 2-gauge bracket or 3-gauge bracket

center-to-center measurement

Sorry, I didn't see this post of yours earlier.

Guy I know has a 3-gauge bracket - speedo to tacho centres 6-1/4", speedo and tacho centres to (disc brake) stanchion centres 3-3/4" (disc brake stanchion centres 7-5/8").

I like the oil pressure gauge version. The only deficit is no provision for warning lights--but with the oil pressure gauge version, all I'd need is a high beam indicator

Regrettably, Pat Brown made the bracket to take a 1-1/2" nominal pressure gauge, that guy I know has not been able to find one with a light. While today modifying a gauge with an LED could be possible, when he first fitted his, he modified a standard Triumph pressure switch to use as a banjo bolt to clamp the gauge hose while retaining the warning light.

Some pressure switches are made with a 1/2" o.d. section between hex. and thread, that happens to be about the same width as a Goodridge 3/8"/M10 i.d. banjo; he machined the 1/2" o.d. down to the same diameter as the switch thread, cross drilled it.

Fwiw, this also averts the other problem fitting modern oil pressure gauges to old Triumphs - apart from early triples, BSA/Triumph used 1/8"NPS-thread pressure switches - if you did not know already, specifically NPS-thread fittings are virtually unobtainable today. NPT-thread are easy but, because Triumph left twins' timing covers very thin around the pressure switch hole, they are very easy to crack with many NPT thread male fittings.

 

[NM Bonny]

Sorry, I didn't see this post of yours earlier.

Guy I know has a 3-gauge bracket - speedo to tacho centres 6-1/4", speedo and tacho centres to (disc brake) stanchion centres 3-3/4" (disc brake stanchion centres 7-5/8").


Regrettably, Pat Brown made the bracket to take a 1-1/2" nominal pressure gauge, that guy I know has not been able to find one with a light. While today modifying a gauge with an LED could be possible, when he first fitted his, he modified a standard Triumph pressure switch to use as a banjo bolt to clamp the gauge hose while retaining the warning light.

Some pressure switches are made with a 1/2" o.d. section between hex. and thread, that happens to be about the same width as a Goodridge 3/8"/M10 i.d. banjo; he machined the 1/2" o.d. down to the same diameter as the switch thread, cross drilled it.

Fwiw, this also averts the other problem fitting modern oil pressure gauges to old Triumphs - apart from early triples, BSA/Triumph used 1/8"NPS-thread pressure switches - if you did not know already, specifically NPS-thread fittings are virtually unobtainable today. NPT-thread are easy but, because Triumph left twins' timing covers very thin around the pressure switch hole, they are very easy to crack with many NPT thread male fittings.

Thanks for this, Rudy. The dimensions will be helpful whenever the fairing gets here.

In view of what you write, I wouldn't get the three-gauge dash--if indeed I go that route. I see now that by 'early' and 'late' they refer to the different stanchion center distances you note and have informed me of earlier in my DIY front disc R&D.

If I end up with clip-ons, I'll probably use the handlebar mounting holes to house the warning lights for high-beam and oil pressure. That would look cool with this dash setup.

 

[atomsplitter]

Took a two-hour ride today on the '51 FL, AKA "The Paint Shaker," and was reminded of both why I love vintage motorcycles and why I'm looking forward to riding this OIF Unit 650.

I feel, relaxing at home with a cup of Earl Gray, like I've been in a rugby game. Riding that 74" rigid-tail beast is invigorating and definitely reminds you that you're alive but it's also like an extended wrestling match.

Just moving the two bikes around the garage is night-and-day different, and I'm anticipating that the featherweight Bonny--with its precise OIF handling, Hagon-enriched rear suspension, upgraded new front brake, and aluminum fairing piercing the NM winds--will be a dream.

When I want to challenge my spine I ride my Bobber. I've redone the entire suspension to quell the worst of it, but with only 3 inches of rear swingarm travel hard hits are inevitable.

 

[NM Bonny]

On the rear-sets, I didn't notice that on this Isle of Man '70s bike, the setup is strikingly similar to what I proposed a few posts earlier. The folding foot peg is in almost exactly the position I've indicated in post #345.

The shifter looks like it's just switched aiming rearward--though perhaps it's a longer shift lever than mine...?

 

[atomsplitter]

On the rear-sets, I didn't notice that on this Isle of Man '70s bike, the setup is strikingly similar to what I proposed a few posts earlier. The folding foot peg is in almost exactly the position I've indicated in post #345.

The shifter looks like it's just switched aiming rearward--though perhaps it's a longer shift lever than mine...?

That would reverse the pattern wouldn't it? If memory serves race shifters are 1 up and the rest down.

 

[NM Bonny]

That would reverse the pattern wouldn't it? If memory serves race shifters are 1 up and the rest down.

It would--assuming there's a shift lever long enough to make that work. Let's see...

Okay, I've slipped my OEM shifter on 180 degrees out and the center-to-center span is 4-3/4", which is just about right.

Here's a shot (pardon the sawdust on the bike) of roughly where the peg would sit if inserted in place of the existing engine mount bolt I pointed out earlier. It can move in or out simply by shimming or trimming the peg's pillion mount.

The only problem I see is that the curvature of the shift lever may put it contact with the kicker cover. But I'm assuming I should be able to find one whose profile is like the one on the racer's bike in post #349--and whose splines match the Triumph pattern.

P.S. - the XS1B kick lever gets here Tuesday, so I'll be able to confirm that it will move the lever in sufficiently to avoid the clearance issue you can see in this picture.

 

[NM Bonny]

Yeah, this ought to work fine: a T140 L/H shift lever, which appears to use the same 3/4" splined shaft...

 

[NM Bonny]

So, for the L/H peg, it looks like I can simply insert into the old pivot hole for the brake pedal: the bolt hole and pillion hole are the perfect size for the Triumph passenger pegs--which match the Scamazon set discussed above that I've ordered. (1st pic)

I don't think I'd notice the 3/4" difference in height if I drill out the R/H engine mount hole as discussed--but I can make up something to attach to the old foot peg mount hole if I don't want to do that.

I've got the old pipes off to reseal the primary case and upgrade the alternator (and they're getting replaced by unbalanced ones). But as you can see in the 2nd pic, it looks like I'm right that I can simply make a plate to clamp into the passenger foot peg loop...

The T`140 L/H shift lever above is on the way with the new pipes...

 

[NM Bonny]

The XS1B kicker arrived, and a handful of observations.

First - it's a beast. Very nicely finished chromed steel, with a circlip fastening the lever to the knuckle, and captured, spring-loaded ball bearing detent, rubber included.. is the OEM lever aluminum? The weight difference is significant.

With the Dunstall replicas weighing 1 lb more than the OEM cans (each), I keep nibbling away at my 4 lb savings from the DIY disc brake!

Second - although it will sit substantially flatter than the OEM lever, frankly I would have been tempted to spring for an overpriced T160 lever that just bolts on, but everyone is out of stock.

Third - that being the case, it looks like I'll have to do several things--and this assumes I do not want to Hobb or otherwise cut splines into the new shaft I bought. That'd be fun, but I'd have to do it yet again when this shaft wears and I want an easily reproduced, bolt-on repair process:

1. Reposition the gear quadrant on the shaft to get the groove that accepts the OEM cotter aimed more or less right for this lever (see pic);
2. Drill the splines out to bring the I.D. up to match the OEM shaft;
3. Figure out how to shape the hole for the existing clamping bolt to receive the funny-shaped Triumph cotter;
4. Possibly grind a touch from the inboard corner of the lever's flange--which is toed in slightly at the stowage position--to avoid scoring the kicker cover.

This last might not be necessary but won't know until the thing's in place...

...ahhh, you know it could be that's why this guy tilted his rearward a little--to avoid contacting the arching cover at rebound. Well, with a radius ground into the inboard corner, I think the lever might be able to aim straight up like the T160 lever--thus creating even more room for the calf muscle.

 

[NM Bonny]

...or I could simply fill the detent in the steel knuckle with welding wire, grind it smooth, and re-drill the detent to put the lever's stowage position just right to avoid contacting the cover.

 

[Rudie]

T160 lever
everyone is out of stock.

Showing on Mitch Klempf's site? $200 though ...

Third

What happens to the lever position if you just fit the cotter pin from a different side? Standard T160 kickstart, nothing else changed, I know the cotter fitting direction make a noticeable difference to the kickstart's angle when folded.

 

[NM Bonny]

Showing on Mitch Klempf's site? $200 though ...


What happens to the lever position if you just fit the cotter pin from a different side? Standard T160 kickstart, nothing else changed, I know the cotter fitting direction make a noticeable difference to the kickstart's angle when folded.

Oh, wow... I hadn't checked this site (and had looked at something like a dozen others). Frankly, the extra $150 over the XS1B lever is well worth the savings in time and labor to machine everything to fit--and it'll be lighter than the Yamaha bit. Thanks for catching that!

As for simply inserting the cotter (and assuming my T120R cotter is the same size as the T160's), it would be wonderful if it's that simple. I've ordered the T160 lever, so will report back when it arrives. Back goes the XS1B lever!

 

[NM Bonny]

Has anyone drilled and tapped the brake lever pivot for a zerk fitting...? I think I'd like to do that to improve the life of the lever and pivot bolt.

 

[Rudie]

Has anyone drilled and tapped the brake lever pivot for a zerk fitting...? I think I'd like to do that to improve the life of the lever and pivot bolt.

Occasionally, I unscrew nut, pull out pivot bolt, clean off the old grease, apply new grease to bolt and lever pivot, reassemble ... Never replaced pivot in nearly fifty years, only replaced levers when I drop the bike on them and they are too far gone to be bent back into shape.

 

[NM Bonny]

Occasionally, I unscrew nut, pull out pivot bolt, clean off the old grease, apply new grease to bolt and lever pivot, reassemble ... Never replaced pivot in nearly fifty years, only replaced levers when I drop the bike on them and they are too far gone to be bent back into shape.

Ah, okay--good to know. I was trying to avoid having to periodically R&R the bolt for lubrication, but if they last that long and the lever doesn't get worn, may not be needed. My pivot bolt is bent at the threads, so I'm replacing it.