No the video is almost a muted sound compared to real life
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Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
New Trophy Owner
- Thread starter Jixr
- Start date
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Been thinking about adding some accent lighting to the bike, but the cheapest kits I could find were about $80 for a full bike kit.
So I saw this thing online, its basically a kit that has glow in the dark rim tape, and an LED light you mount to your fender facing the wheel, and the idea is, that when the tire spins, the LED lights up the tape, creating a tron-like constant wheel glow.
I really liked the idea, but the kit was $100, and I saw room for improvements. and I'm a huge tech-nerd, so for $20, I can build the same thing, but better. I'm working on it right now, but once its done, i'll post the results.
So I saw this thing online, its basically a kit that has glow in the dark rim tape, and an LED light you mount to your fender facing the wheel, and the idea is, that when the tire spins, the LED lights up the tape, creating a tron-like constant wheel glow.
I really liked the idea, but the kit was $100, and I saw room for improvements. and I'm a huge tech-nerd, so for $20, I can build the same thing, but better. I'm working on it right now, but once its done, i'll post the results.
LED lights and such are illegal to run here in Pennsylvania. Even those tire valve caps that light up are a no no.
That's OK by me as it's not really my cup of tea anyhow.
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
That's OK by me as it's not really my cup of tea anyhow.
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
They are legal here too, but are not for me. The sport bike crowd loves 'em.
They are legal here if you don't get caught with them on while moving. Some bikers use them when their bikes are parked as an "accent". The cops won't ticket you if the bike isn't running....but technically they don't pass inspection.
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
Posted using Tapatalk 2 via my RAZR
Just an update, things are going good, rode for an hour and a half in 55°f weather, thats where I learned i need to figure out a way to get my handle bar heaters working again. But the good thing, it was so cold, my butt didn't get sore simply cus I could not feel it lol.
this weekend i'm taking it to the beach, and i'm soon wanting to do some routine tune up work on the bike
looking at
new plugs - which ones are reccomended?
check fuel lines/filter
clean air filter
I Also think the pipes along with the K&N air filter, left the bike's A/F mix a little off, it just does not seem as powerful as it should be, and is slightly boggy at low rpms
should I just adjust the A/F screws ( turning them in would give it more fuel correct? ) or do a jet kit?
( I have not checked the plugs, but I will check them tonight )
( it may have been jetted when the air filter was installed, I know the PO said it had "carb work" but thats all i know )
this weekend i'm taking it to the beach, and i'm soon wanting to do some routine tune up work on the bike
looking at
new plugs - which ones are reccomended?
check fuel lines/filter
clean air filter
I Also think the pipes along with the K&N air filter, left the bike's A/F mix a little off, it just does not seem as powerful as it should be, and is slightly boggy at low rpms
should I just adjust the A/F screws ( turning them in would give it more fuel correct? ) or do a jet kit?
( I have not checked the plugs, but I will check them tonight )
( it may have been jetted when the air filter was installed, I know the PO said it had "carb work" but thats all i know )
I suggest you do a dyno run with exhaust analyzer. That will tell you exactly where you are and you can rejet from there if needed.
Spark Plugs are NGK DPR9EA-9 Gap: 0.8-0.9 mm
If you're doing the K&N air filter, I'd not touch the cab screws and go with a jet kit. The carb's settings really aren't supposed to ever be tampered with.
I don't have heated grips, but I do have the genuine Triumph Trophy wind deflectors mounted. They work well, but they may not work for you since you changed the height of the bars....they are mounted on the fairing. I don't even know where you'd get them today. Maybe a Triumph dealer???
The only fuel filters I know of on a stock Trophy is the wire mesh one inside the fuel tap (inside the tank) and the tiny ones one each carb where the fuel line enters the carb. I added a see-thru plastic one in my main fuel line.
I would also change your spark plugs BEFORE messing with jetting the carbs. You may want to test ride it with new plugs and see what's needed carb-wise first. I never had to do any carb work when I switched cans. A tiny tweak probably would have been a good idea, but it was ever so minor that I never worried about it.
If you're doing the K&N air filter, I'd not touch the cab screws and go with a jet kit. The carb's settings really aren't supposed to ever be tampered with.
I don't have heated grips, but I do have the genuine Triumph Trophy wind deflectors mounted. They work well, but they may not work for you since you changed the height of the bars....they are mounted on the fairing. I don't even know where you'd get them today. Maybe a Triumph dealer???
The only fuel filters I know of on a stock Trophy is the wire mesh one inside the fuel tap (inside the tank) and the tiny ones one each carb where the fuel line enters the carb. I added a see-thru plastic one in my main fuel line.
I would also change your spark plugs BEFORE messing with jetting the carbs. You may want to test ride it with new plugs and see what's needed carb-wise first. I never had to do any carb work when I switched cans. A tiny tweak probably would have been a good idea, but it was ever so minor that I never worried about it.
Yes...obviously that's the best route to go if you aren't too far from one and they don't charge too much. There are bolts in the front of each header pipe to attach the probes.
It is pricey for sure. Around here, some of the shops have Dyno Nights where you can get a run for $55-$65 per hour. That is what I do.
Progressive front fork springs is almost a MUST on a Trophy...or at least putting a spacer in there to stop the nose dive.
It might mention it in the TriumphTalk Wiki under Trophy, but I'm not sure.
I did it and it's helped.
Basically, you just remove your top fork nuts to get inside the tubes. Then you cut a piece of PVC pipe that will fit inside diameter-wise to about 1-1.4 inches (making sure both right and left sides are equal of course).
You place the PVC spacer you just made above the washers over the spring and then carefully rethread and tighten the top fork nut. I say carefully because with the spacer in there, it'll be a lot harder to compress the spring and if you let it slip, it'll pop up and smack you in the face! Anything over about 1.4 inches long and you'd have to be superhuman to get the fork nut back on.
This gives your springs some preload and stiffens up the front end quite a bit, but not as good as a good new set of progressive spring would. Then again, it's nearly free and easy to do.
Yeah, i'm all for cheap mods, i'll probably start at a 1" spacer then.
Also, less fork compression means I could drop the front a little more ( still on my tippie toes when backing it up ) but I really don't want to slam the bike down, and i'm already having the nut crusher effect with the slope of the stock seat. ( i really miss my old YSR 50's "nut pad" )
I can raise the front back up, but then its too tall, I really need an affordable way to drop the rear of the bike, I've already inverted the rear chain adjuster disk.
Also, less fork compression means I could drop the front a little more ( still on my tippie toes when backing it up ) but I really don't want to slam the bike down, and i'm already having the nut crusher effect with the slope of the stock seat. ( i really miss my old YSR 50's "nut pad" )
I can raise the front back up, but then its too tall, I really need an affordable way to drop the rear of the bike, I've already inverted the rear chain adjuster disk.
The only way to drop the rear any more than what you've done is to get a shorter dogbone link for the rear suspension. There are adjustable ones on the Internet available but they may be hard to find these days.
Yeah, hard to find and not cheap, thats why i'm looking at getting my seat worked on, or possibly buying one of those gel seat pads or something. maybe even putting something under the seat to level it out.
Its not that the stock seat is uncomfortable, its just the comfortable part is towards the back of the seat, and due to my lowering, it slopes forward where i'm almost sitting on where the tank meets the seat.
I have a 4 hour ride either tonight or in the morning, so been thinking of trying something out.
Its not that the stock seat is uncomfortable, its just the comfortable part is towards the back of the seat, and due to my lowering, it slopes forward where i'm almost sitting on where the tank meets the seat.
I have a 4 hour ride either tonight or in the morning, so been thinking of trying something out.
