Hard starting TR6RV

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Hahahaha....
So what's the deal with Lucas electronics? Do they not like moisture? I only take ole blue out on fair weather days so haven't had the liberty to experience any issues with moisture.
Carl pretty much hit the nail on the head. For the day Lucas was considered pretty much the go to brand although the German Bosch products were considered to be the best but were never used in Britain. Just take a look at all the exposed wiring plus the vibration was a killer for poorly soldered joints. Wires falling off brought me to a grinding halt in the dark more than once. I think Lucas got a bad name a little unfairly because of course they got the blame when a poorly fitted product of theirs failed. The design was also often a little lacking. It was little things like the rear light where water could easily get into the bulb holder from behind and rust the connections, or the rear brake light switch which is completely unwaterproofed but sits fully exposed on the swing arm.
Of course we now tend to avoid riding bikes in bad weather as we ride purely for fun. Back then we had no choice. Having said that I would still try to use Lucas products whenever possible. Old habits die hard as they say. Here in Australia Champion spark plugs are pretty much unobtainable. Dealers call them rubbish. I always used Champion and recently imported some from the UK. I actually find them better on my Triumph than NGK. Brand loyalty is a powerful thing. 7, if you take the bike out in the rain just spray some WD40 or similar around the coils, plugs leads etc. under the tank and any other exposed wiring. It does help.
Early Minis were notorious in wet weather. The Distributor cap faced forward right behind the open front grill as did the spark plug caps and plugs on the transverse fitted front wheel drive engine.
So, a Lucas Distributor but fitted in a bad position. Regular WD40 was the cure, usually.
 
Carl pretty much hit the nail on the head. For the day Lucas was considered pretty much the go to brand although the German Bosch products were considered to be the best but were never used in Britain. Just take a look at all the exposed wiring plus the vibration was a killer for poorly soldered joints. Wires falling off brought me to a grinding halt in the dark more than once. I think Lucas got a bad name a little unfairly because of course they got the blame when a poorly fitted product of theirs failed. The design was also often a little lacking. It was little things like the rear light where water could easily get into the bulb holder from behind and rust the connections, or the rear brake light switch which is completely unwaterproofed but sits fully exposed on the swing arm.
Of course we now tend to avoid riding bikes in bad weather as we ride purely for fun. Back then we had no choice. Having said that I would still try to use Lucas products whenever possible. Old habits die hard as they say. Here in Australia Champion spark plugs are pretty much unobtainable. Dealers call them rubbish. I always used Champion and recently imported some from the UK. I actually find them better on my Triumph than NGK. Brand loyalty is a powerful thing. 7, if you take the bike out in the rain just spray some WD40 or similar around the coils, plugs leads etc. under the tank and any other exposed wiring. It does help.
Early Minis were notorious in wet weather. The Distributor cap faced forward right behind the open front grill as did the spark plug caps and plugs on the transverse fitted front wheel drive engine.
So, a Lucas Distributor but fitted in a bad position. Regular WD40 was the cure, usually.
Good to know information. I lost my taillight ground connection one time where the solder came loose. Now I'm going through taillight / brake light bulbs either from vibration my zenor diode is going bad. Cant complain its 47 years old.....and I'm 45 years old and things dont work as they used to......haha
 
Good to know information. I lost my taillight ground connection one time where the solder came loose. Now I'm going through taillight / brake light bulbs either from vibration my zenor diode is going bad. Cant complain its 47 years old.....and I'm 45 years old and things dont work as they used to......haha
I can relate to that!! But Ihave 30 years on you. BGRIN
 
New gasket kit came in yesterday! After going through the cable and clutch spring adjustment. Took some slack out of the primary chain and re-sealed the primary cover. Added enough oil so it ran out the check plug. Took the ole girl out for a spin and everything works great. No problems starting or the clutch slipping.
Came across a pair of these old busses from England that are now Hot Dog stands.
20190908_094822.jpg
 
Good to know information. I lost my taillight ground connection one time where the solder came loose. Now I'm going through taillight / brake light bulbs either from vibration my zenor diode is going bad. Cant complain its 47 years old.....and I'm 45 years old and things dont work as they used to......haha
45? That's still a baby. After 50 its down hill all the way. At 62 I'm making the most of my Triumph before my knees give out and I can't start it anymore.
 
Blowing bulbs? I think you may be right about your Diode. I haven't blown any bulbs yet and they always seemed to cope with the vibration ok. I remember British Police always used a supposedly flickering rear light as an excuse to stop us young riders back in the 70's. I carry spare front/rear bulbs bubble wrapped inside the front headlight just in case one does blow. Its usually bad connections and wiring that causes the most problems. Those are the old route master buses. So much better than the new ones. They used to allow smoking upstairs. Winter with all the windows closed the smell was horrific. Health & safety was the death of these buses as they had a wide platform at the back to get on & off with no door. Its on the left as we drive on the left in the UK (and Oz) so not visible in the photo. Great back drop for ole Blue though.
 
I can still kick start at 75 years old and Rocky is older than I. BGRIN
That's the sad thing. Physical health can vary so much as we get older. One of my riding group had to stop coz his knees got too bad to trust holding up his bike. He then had to recover from having his stomach and throat removed. We are trying to persuade him to invest in a sidecar outfit. I know he would love to get back riding.
I think it was Bob hope who said "I intend to live forever and so far so good!"
 
My late wife, Mae Lyne, had deteriorating physical problems. I hung a sidecar on her T100 and it gave her three more years in the wind. I hope your friend will do this. And sidecars are fun!

full
 
Recently turned 74 with both knees replaced and have enjoyed motorcycles since 1968. Even had a BSA spitfire in '69. About 4 tears ago I dumped my BMW K1100lt while making a simple U-turn. I said I was thru with 2 wheels and got a Ural sidecar rig. It was a good one and rode it 24,000 kl. Got bored with it and yearned for 2 wheels.
Two months ago I got a 1970 Triumph Trophy t100 c because it is light and easy to handle. Love it!
British Bikes rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanx for a great site with invaluable information.
 
I can still kick start at 75 years old and Rocky is older than I. BGRIN
Thanks Carl, and yes it's true, I can easily kick over that BSA 441 single that I ride a lot.
I'm truly blessed to be in such great physical health as age 82 is only a couple of months away.
I ride with a vintage bike club and most of the members are "vintage" too but much younger than me. Lately, I've noticed how some of them are starting to suffer physically. It always saddens me when I see this or hear about riders having to give up riding.
So far, so good. Knees and hips still in good condition.
 
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Recently turned 74 with both knees replaced and have enjoyed motorcycles since 1968. Even had a BSA spitfire in '69. About 4 tears ago I dumped my BMW K1100lt while making a simple U-turn. I said I was thru with 2 wheels and got a Ural sidecar rig. It was a good one and rode it 24,000 kl. Got bored with it and yearned for 2 wheels.
Two months ago I got a 1970 Triumph Trophy t100 c because it is light and easy to handle. Love it!
British Bikes rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanx for a great site with invaluable information.
Yes indeed, Brit bikes do rock! And I agree with you about the vintage Triumphs being light and easy to handle. Glasd you are back on two wheels; but I do love sidecar rigs, too.
 
Reassemble clutch and tighten the springs about 1-1/2 turns.
Too little? Standard adjustment is to tighten what the parts book calls the "Pressure nut" on each spring 'til the end of the "Screwed pin" is level with either the top of the "Pressure nut" or the bottom of its slot; that variation should then be sufficient range for any individual adjustment to eliminate "Pressure plate" wobble.

when Triumph changed to engine oil supplying the primary drive I think it was a retrograde step as it no longer gives the choice of what primary oil to use. I suspect it was done to match the easier servicing offered by the new Japanese bikes
Before '70, Triumph twins had a 'timed breather' to vent the crankcase. The inlet camshaft was hollow, operated the timed breather parts on its end in the drive-side crankcase, that fed into a channel cast in the case which ended at a steel spigot by the gearbox final-drive sprocket. The 'timing' allowed increasing crankcase pressure to vent to atmosphere as the pistons descended but not to suck from atmosphere as the pistons ascended.

Appearances are the timed breather capacity wasn't enough if a bike was used at high rpm for any length of time, say in competition. Certainly the factory ISDT twins in the 1950's vented the crankcase through the primary; the mods. were relatively-easy - drill the drain hole(s) between primary and crankcase, leave out the drive-side main bearing oil seal (for venting), fit a filter in place of the primary filler cap.

These mods. became popular 'tuning', especially in the US, where both importers offered ready-made primary filler-replacement filters and/or spigots (for longer vent pipes) in their go-faster goodies catalogues.

When the triples (developed through the 1960's) were launched in 1968, they had crankcase-primary venting. Meriden must have regularly considered ways of reducing the twins' production costs - leave out parts (drive-side main bearing oil seal and fiddly-to-assemble timed breather bits), cast drive-side crankcase easier, solid inlet camshaft - what was not to like? They also probably hoped for fewer leaks when owners chased Japanese bikes ...

lack of friction inhibitors as commonly used in most modern engine oil.
You should always use specific motorcycle oil even for modern bikes for the same reason that most
modern bikes use a wet clutch.
If you want know if any modern engine oil lacks the specific friction inhibitors that affect clutches, look for "JASO MA2" amongst the specifications on the container.

I use an engine oil specifically formulated for old style bike engines. No friction inhibitors or detergents and friendly to bronze bushing.
Your Triumph is designed to collect oil sludge and gunk inside the crank itself
Some misunderstandings.

While called the "sludge trap", its design and position means it's better at catching heavier particles than any that might make up a "sludge". Even if a "sludge" was made up of particles, they'd be finer than the 15 microns reckoned to be the smallest wear-causing size. A given bit of oil spends so little time in the "sludge trap" that there isn't enough time for such small particles to be separated out.

"Sludge" is more likely chemical compound combustion by-products, normally dispersed or prevented from forming by the various detergent additives. These have been in engine oil about as long as Turner's twin has been around so the chances are remote that even an "oil specifically designed for 40's, 50's and 60's engines" lacks them, or a low- or no-detergent oil is a sensible choice for most (any?) readers' bikes.

The lack of a modern oil filter is the reason we should change Triumph engine oil about every 1500 miles,
The oil 'filtration' on Triumph twins was designed in 1936 (or possibly earlier, given the engine design is basically half an Ariel Square Four). Like many things, oil filtration has advanced a bit in the intervening eighty-plus years.

The lack of a modern oil filter is the reason Triumph recommended changing engine oil every 1500 miles; there are modern oil filters that fit old Triumphs. The crankshaft sludge trap is essentially not user-serviceable, modern oil filters are user-serviceable, they stop the sludge trap filling up and they can at least double the oil change interval. What's not to like?

The only reason that might advise a lower oil change mileage on a filter-fitted bike is if it doesn't cover 3,000+ miles in a year, because the oil companies usually advise a 12-month time limit as well.
 
I always make it quite clear everything I write is strictly my personal opinion formed by what I discovered or experienced as an owner of a 67 Bonneville and a 650 Thunderbird back in the 70's. No misunderstandings, sludge trap is called a sludge trap coz it always fills with sludge that in time becomes rock hard sludge. No definition of sludge is really required.
I will not fit a modern oil filter because it is a modern oil filter. If I want to ride modern I pull out my FJR 1300.
My Triumph stays as standard as I can make it. I will change the oil every 1500 or less because the cost is of no importance when keeping a 60's motorbike on the road. Even my new Mustang V8 wants oil changes between 3000 & 4000 km and that's using modern oil in an engine that has to be light years ahead of my Triumph engine in build quality plus it has a filter. I stand by my earlier opinion. Owners can choose what they wish to do but my old girl will be getting fresh oil on a very regular basis. I love my Triumph because its old style engineering. I refuse to end up with a hybrid of old and new and devalue its worth to me.
 
People get after me all the time for ALWAYS recommending whatever lubricants the FACTORY SHOP MANUAL calls for. "There are better modern lubricants, you know"... Yes, I know. That's not the point.

But no matter how often they get after me, I will KEEP ON recommending that way.
 
No complaining from me, I entirely agree with the same way of thinking. Maybe its an age thing but having a fair amount of life experience one does realize that new modern does not always mean better. I reckon it will be almost impossible to keep my FJR 1300 on the road for another 50 years with all its plastic and modern gidgetry. With luck and a continued availability of suitable fuel my Triumph could easily still be around in another 50 years.
I'm not sure I can even imagine the world in 50 years. Internal combustion will have no doubt long since joined steam in the museums of old world transport and personal transport will cease to be a source of fun and nostalgia. Whats fun about an electric motor in a self driving car?
This is presuming of course that Terminators haven't taken over. Hang on, they rode motorcycles. So, the future enslavement of the whole human race may not be entirely bad!
 
No complaining from me, I entirely agree with the same way of thinking. Maybe its an age thing but having a fair amount of life experience one does realize that new modern does not always mean better. I reckon it will be almost impossible to keep my FJR 1300 on the road for another 50 years with all its plastic and modern gidgetry. With luck and a continued availability of suitable fuel my Triumph could easily still be around in another 50 years.
I'm not sure I can even imagine the world in 50 years. Internal combustion will have no doubt long since joined steam in the museums of old world transport and personal transport will cease to be a source of fun and nostalgia. Whats fun about an electric motor in a self driving car?
This is presuming of course that Terminators haven't taken over. Hang on, they rode motorcycles. So, the future enslavement of the whole human race may not be entirely bad!
BGRIN it's hard to argue with that TUP
 

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