Fix crack in swimming pool

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Does anyone have any bright ideas how I can fix a crack in my swimming pool without having to empty it chop it all out and repair it this way. The crack is running from the top of the pool to about a few inches under the level of the simmer box level. It is on the steps side of the pool about midway where the sallow end goes into the deep end. If I have to get it professionally done it is going to cost me one Speedmaster that is for sure CRY

This is not like a huge crack more a hairline type crack about the width of a knife blade at the sharp end. I have one of those old gunite chipped tile type pools and it hold around 80 to 90 thousand litres
 
This kind of repair would probably fall under house foundation crack repair.
I've never had a pool so can't visualize the problem, but is the crack causing a problem or is it just unsightly?
 
I am loosing around 5000 litres of water in a week through it, I know this as I emptied my water tank to fill it last weekend and now when I look it is back to where it was before I filled it. The water does not seem to fall much below the inlet of the skimmer box level so it seems to be confined towards the top of the pool area. I used food colouring to check that it was flowing out through this area. much like in this video.

[video=youtube;Vd6e4W_bcEs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd6e4W_bcEs&feature=related[/video]

So now looking at this I am thinking that I could maybe try our Pratley Putty as you are able to work with it under water. I suppose the normal one would be the one to use here

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[TD="width: 260, align: center"]Pratley Putty® Original
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cat.no. 80211
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  • Was the first of it's kind in the world​
  • The only South African product to go to the moon!​
  • Hand mouldable adhesive which sets very hard​
  • Ideal for underwater use​
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Wow, that's a lot of water to lose!!
When I first read your question I was thinking that there must be some kind of epoxy-type putty or caulking that could be pushed into the crack to seal it on the water side - and you seem to have found some.

When I first got my BSA Victor Roadster it had a gas leak around the filler neck and was causing the paint to start to lift. I guess the former owner kept the gas level low so it wouldn't leak as there was a hint of a leak and paint lifting when I bought the bike.
I found some two-part epoxy putty that was not affected by gasoline, and just like the guy in the video, I mixed it up and apllied it around where the steel filler neck met the fiberglass tank.
It has never leaked since.
Good luck with the repair.
 
Can answer your question but I do have one comment/question. . . Dave with your DIY luck do you really want to do this? 5000 liters may be small compared to the repaired leakage. :y2:





Sorry, I couldn't rist . . . the urge was too strong.
 
I'm thinking its worth trying yourself Dave rather than giving a crap load of money to someone else.
I'm thinking either a sealant which will work under water or an epoxy putty such as you mentioned.Here we have one called aqua knead it,looks very similar to your one.
The only thing I am thinking tho, is with such a narrow crack,getting a putty consistency in there may be a bit of an ask.
I am inclined to think you
a) need to groove out the crack to get a key for your putty
b) use an epoxy bandage to completely cover the crack
or c) inject a thinner epoxy grout into the crack under pressure.

btw, i used the word crap in the top line cos I can.
 
I will be going to have a word with the pool shop tomorrow and see what they say. You are correct I will need to open the crack up more so I can get the putty into is to hold in place. By next weekend the pool level should also be at the lowest point to where the leak stops. I will then need to go a bit lower into the water as well. At some stage I will need to get it done professionally but that will need to wait until I have the cash.
 
DaveM. I had a friend with a similar problem in a KOI pond.

Solution:

1) Switch off pump at the breaker, to prevent surprize pump start-up.

2) Buy Pratley Putty - but NOT the quick set one - the 24 hour one. Mix as normal and roll into a sausage shape and push into the crack AS DEEPLY AS POSSIBLE.

3) Smooth with finger.

4) Allow to set for 48 hours. (Yes - it does set under water.)

VOILA
 
I would think the advantage of not using the quick set one Dave would be you get longer to work the product and once in the crack,it will act as a seal anyway and the water pressure may help to push it further in to the gap.
 
Dave, I just repaired a leak in a Koi pond using a similar putty. It took me two tries. I had sucess when I lowered the water below the crack and did not use a quick set putty. Good luck. You have a lot more water pressure than I have in the Koi pond.
 
It does not set under water.

:y13: I did not know that, thanks

Well when I do it next weekend most of the crack will be out the water as by that time it would have leaked out. It will also give me a great indicator as to how far down the crack is actually leaking. I will then chip out a bit further down into the water and seal that as well.
 
Mabel had a crick in her pool this Spring and we had to call a pool company to come out. The leak was behind the light and beyond my ability to repair it. It cost her $300.00 USD.
 
I have been giving this some thought and this is the way I think I should do it, so if you see any issues with this please let me know before I do it :y2:

1. Chip the crack open and deeper into the pool side.
2. Place a thin bead of silicon sealer (the marine type) at the bottom of crack.
3. Use this putty to fill remaining crack.
Pratley Putty® Original
PuttyStd.jpg

The way I see it the putty would then force the silicon deeper into the crack thus sealing it off even further.
4. Once the putty is dry use Geocel PAINTERS MATE® Flexible Acrylic Filler over the putty more to give a nice looking finish, it may also add to the sealing properties of the rest of the stuff
 

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