I agree with Rocky and Lowboyjim about the bearings - replace them. You have made some good progress. Thanks for the pics.
1971 T100c
- Thread starter rcrowley
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rcrowley
Active Member
Alright. Still here guys! Had to wait for a few tools to arrive. The hub puller ended up being the wrong one (didn't double check the one I clicked on to order). But did actually get the hub off with a puller. Case is split. I'll get pictures posted a little later today. The two bolts in the middle were giving me some trouble and just as I was about to start to worry they broke free. Phew! Unfortunately the sludge trap is a whole different story. The flathead bolt stripped and for up immediately. So I need to work on extracting it. No red goo inside the case. So that's a plus.
Yep . Great work Rudie !
Good progress. 
Nice going so far
Keep us up to date.
Keep us up to date.
them slot screws strip easy on one sludge trap I had to drill it an use a easy out and lots a heat
rcrowley
Active Member
I noticed haha. I was in awe at how quick it stripped.
they make alen head type for replacement --jim
Good old fashioned engineering! Very simple but you do need to know a few basic skills. Stripping the head on bolts was always the scariest part of working on these bikes. I think it was due to the fact they got removed quite a lot and each time they got slightly more damaged. I remember Allen bolts on the primary side of my pre unit causing me a few headaches. I think frustration at trying to cure oil leaks tended to cause overtightening (which only made it worse). Interested to see piccies of the crank and the sludge trap.
rcrowley
Active Member
Well, the bolt is out. It wasn't pretty. It got bad. It became a warzone in the workshop. The threads might be wrecked. Might be fixable. I actually started looking or a new crankshaft at one point. Ive dealt with some stubborn bolt before but this is easily the worst one I've encountered.
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Bugger, you have my sincere sympathies. I think most of us have had to deal with something similar at some time. My experience taught me to stay calm, remove all hammers from within arms reach and think it through. If it is damaged think about having a good machine shop conversant with this type of part take a look. Metal spraying etc. can often come to the rescue but its very specialized. Be careful with any replacement crank as Triumph had a habit of changing the cranks by altering the weight for different uses and the holy grail of less vibration. Not sure how to identify them but perhaps GP or others may know. From the photo it looks like it can be salvaged ok so long as you didn't get carried away with the hammer. Check it carefully for both balance and that it runs true. Cranks dropped or hit too hard can also develop unseen cracks leading to catastrophic failure at some time in the future. If in doubt have it crack tested. DO NOT take any chances. Crank failure will destroy your lovely matching numbers engine. Just keep thinking how great it will be when it's finished and the sense of achievement in having done it yourself.
That looks ugly. All you had to do was weld a large washer to the plug (after carefullly drilling the peenings), welded in the hole of the washer, then weld a large nut to the washer, and use a ratchet or air impact gun on it.
rcrowley
Active Member
As far as bearings go. I'm going to take the advice and just replace them. I have the original part numbers from the book but upon searching there's a few different ones that pop up. also keep getting a lot of things for the 650. Anyone have the replacement part # for them? Is this ball bearing the original? Says USA on it.
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This is possibly one of the trickiest jobs to do on these bikes so don't beat yourself up for having difficulties.
I feel sure the crank can be rescued. They must be replacement bearings if stamped USA. Just get the best quality available. Usually German or Japanese bearings are good. Just be aware there can be different grades of bearings in the same size. I would go for bearings advertised specifically for this engine to be safe.
Looking good.
Good advice from Twin Pots.
If you intend to keep this bike for many trouble-free years of riding, get the best bearings you can find and have peace of mind that they will last a very long time.
Match the bearings with good quality oil and oil changes, and you will be smiling for many years.
If you intend to keep this bike for many trouble-free years of riding, get the best bearings you can find and have peace of mind that they will last a very long time.
Match the bearings with good quality oil and oil changes, and you will be smiling for many years.
rcrowley
Active Member
Not sure what’s bad for these or not. But it was a little about the holding bolt hole. Packed in there. This concludes the tear down. Bearings are all out as well going to order those soon. Then reassemble begins. Pretty stoked. While waiting for parts and what not. I’ll be painting the frame and getting started on the other parts of the bike. I’ll be doing a full rewire and electrical update. Won’t be bringing electrical back to standard. However. Anything that I don’t bring to original I’ll be saving and repairing anyways so one day it will all be brought back to original.
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I'm guessing these are photos of the sludge trap. Still of the opinion that nothing much happens if the sludge trap becomes completely filled with gunge other than it ceases to remove muck from the oil.
Just a genuine question, why would you not want to re fit standard electrics? My 67 Bonneville is completely standard in this regard inc normal contact breakers etc. I never have any problems and it is still the original 50 year old wiring with the positive earth 12v system. In the last 12 months I have completed over 4000 km with 100% reliability (if you don't count the rear puncture which was my fault anyway). Replace with a new wiring loom but I can't see what is gained by updating the original system.
I guarantee when you come to sell it buyers will prefer it as original as possible. Your bike your choice but I just think its a shame not to keep it as original as possible so long as the bike is reliable. My bike starts first kick every time, idles like a champ so why would I want to change anything? Good luck with the re build. By the way, I got a shock when I looked up the price of new main bearings!!
Word of caution, make sure you check the clearance size of the bearings coming out and use the same to replace. Do a bit of reading on the subject and you will soon know what I mean. It has nothing to do with the fit on the shaft (it won't fix a loose fitting i.d. on the crank for instance). Triumph normally use what's known as a CN3 fit. This simply signifies the inner races of the bearing are made slightly looser to avoid binding (i.e. being squeezed too tight) when the bearing is fitted to the crank and the crankcase. For example using a CN2 stamped bearing, signifying that its tighter than normal, could cause excessive friction and premature failure. CN3 means slightly looser than normal. I mention this simply to avoid the risk of a supplier off loading an unwanted size on you to clear his shelf. If nothing is stamped on the old bearing then presume it is "Standard". Standard or a CN3 size is usual for a Triumph engine to allow enough internal bearing clearance when it gets hot. Check with your supplier which size they are giving you.
Just a genuine question, why would you not want to re fit standard electrics? My 67 Bonneville is completely standard in this regard inc normal contact breakers etc. I never have any problems and it is still the original 50 year old wiring with the positive earth 12v system. In the last 12 months I have completed over 4000 km with 100% reliability (if you don't count the rear puncture which was my fault anyway). Replace with a new wiring loom but I can't see what is gained by updating the original system.
I guarantee when you come to sell it buyers will prefer it as original as possible. Your bike your choice but I just think its a shame not to keep it as original as possible so long as the bike is reliable. My bike starts first kick every time, idles like a champ so why would I want to change anything? Good luck with the re build. By the way, I got a shock when I looked up the price of new main bearings!!
Word of caution, make sure you check the clearance size of the bearings coming out and use the same to replace. Do a bit of reading on the subject and you will soon know what I mean. It has nothing to do with the fit on the shaft (it won't fix a loose fitting i.d. on the crank for instance). Triumph normally use what's known as a CN3 fit. This simply signifies the inner races of the bearing are made slightly looser to avoid binding (i.e. being squeezed too tight) when the bearing is fitted to the crank and the crankcase. For example using a CN2 stamped bearing, signifying that its tighter than normal, could cause excessive friction and premature failure. CN3 means slightly looser than normal. I mention this simply to avoid the risk of a supplier off loading an unwanted size on you to clear his shelf. If nothing is stamped on the old bearing then presume it is "Standard". Standard or a CN3 size is usual for a Triumph engine to allow enough internal bearing clearance when it gets hot. Check with your supplier which size they are giving you.
rcrowley
Active Member
I don’t have any future plans to sell it, I’m probably going to have it set up as a bobber for a little while then bring it back to original. The harness that came with the bike is a bit of a mess, I’d like to clean it up. Switch the lights over to LED and what not. However, this will only last a short time. Then it will all be brought that to original. I know that sounds like a waste of time and money but I enjoy the project and the bobber parts are all bolt so there will be no permanent modifications done to the bike.
rcrowley
Active Member
I’m glad you brought up the bearing clearance. I wasn’t sure which one to go with. The bearing that’s as in there was definitely not original and not stamped with any clearance. diffrrent suppliers seem to give a different CN answers but the most common I found was the CN3. The price of the new mains will be the current hold up of getting it back together. It’s Christmas. Hard to explain to the wife why I got her bearings for a gift
