1971 T100c
- Thread starter rcrowley
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What is that! A rodent stash?
Wow! I believe that engine might need an overhaul.
rcrowley
Active Member
Yup. Looks to be.
Looks like that will be the case. Going to dive into it this weekend. Anything I should keep an extra eye out for? I know the sludge trap is a major one. Any recommendations for gaskets and seals/o-rings?
wow ya wonder how they got that stuff up in there . when splitting the cases be real carfull, don't force any thing , use brass drifts and hammer , I was lucky and found a hide hammer at a yard sale , pay close attention on the timing side , you will need a cam wheel puller tool #d2213 or d2217 also a service tool #91 6019 for the crank pinion- , the cam nuts are left hand thread the crank nut is right hand thread . you should be able to find some of these service pullers on ebay . It would really pay you to buy a service manual for 500 triumphs . also there are 2 small screws that hold the cases together , you cant see them till you pull the barrel out use heat with them you may not get a 2nd chance as they are a slot screw you will need a nice screw driver to get them out , some guys put them in with Loctite so they come out hard , on the 650s its good to remove the barrel studs so you get a square shot at them slot screws, take your time and study how things work and why , good luck jim
almost forgot when you do split the cases , watch out for a thing called a breather disk and its spring . they are in the hole that the intake cam goes in on the drive side. the sprin may fall out and you wont know where it came from , the disc may come out while cleaning the cases , it is a timed breather arrangement triumph used till 1970 on the 650's . I don't know when they changed it on the 500's , my 68 parts book shows it and my 71 parts book does not .---jim
The timed breather was omitted on all 1970 models.
Excellent! It looks really good 
Looks good EXCEPT for all the red goo. All it takes is a little bit to plug an oil way in the crank or pump...
i am surorised it looks that good ! you got the book great ! the center case screws I spoke of earlier ,if you look at the first picture you can see the crank flywheel and a crank bolt the one screw is just above that bolt on the cases , you can see a unevenness in the case half's there thats normal but that's where the front screw is located the screw driver goes in from the drive side use heat before attempting to remove those ears are easily broken when the screws are not removed and a forced attempt is tried to split the cases . i see by the pictures that it was a sloopy job done the last time it was apart. never use that silicone sealer , it gets in your passeges and pump your done , i use grease with the gaskets, those push tubes need no sealer just fresh rubers-- jim
Oh I thought maybe you cleaned up the pistons , well if the red goup is all over the case halfes you will know they did the low end , its still a good idea to check the trap. while im on here, the only place I use gasket sealer is the case half's , I use "threebond" I get it on ebay from a guy in los angeles have attached a picture its a gray paste , after wire wheeling the half's I clean them with alcohol so it sticks good ,I let it dry a few min. so will compress some it does not dry hard . good luck jim
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For the case sealers I use either Permatex or Loctite flange sealer.
Thanks for the photos, pleased you posted them before cleaning. I would certainly recommend taking nothing for granted and double check everything. The excessive use of sealant would suggest a poor mechanic did the service work. Although I think we all understand the frustration sometimes of trying to stop a Triumph engine spewing oil so, if you are lucky, he was simply a good mechanic who just hated oil leaks with a passion. Sad part is I bet it would have leaked even more due to the over use of red goop had it ever been started. The photos would suggest the engine was never run which is probably a blessing. Hopefully you will end with a super smooth oil tight engine that will last for years. I think we would all like to follow the rebuild so keep the photos and diary coming. Best of luck with it.
rcrowley
Active Member
Got a small amount done this weekend. Waiting for a few tools to come in the mail. Everything is still clean. Less goop used on the sides. Pulled the valves out to inspect and clean up that corn mess. One of the valves was a little stuck at first. But after moving it, it seems like move smooth now. The shock absorber popped off the hub right after taking the nut off, so all my rollers came crashing out. Waiting for the tool to pop the hub off and to pull the gears off on the other side then should be ready to finish getting it apart. Ordered a gasket kit that appears to have Everything but the head gasket. Couple of small things I'll need to order as well. One of the alternator bolts had a stripped nut so bad it was a perfect circle. So I just cut it. Ordering a new one. What's everyone's opinion on replacing the bearings. I know some people replace them no matter what whenever doing a rebuild. Have not got to them yet but if the story continues the way it's going they should be in good shape.
Btw the mileage I have on my speedo that came with the box of parts has just over 8k on it. G
Btw the mileage I have on my speedo that came with the box of parts has just over 8k on it. G
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Great progress so far
The speedo may be correct - but it also may not be. Bikes like these have a questionable history. It's the "not knowing" that is bothersome.
It's up to you, but while you have it apart is the time to replace bearings - especially if you intend to keep the bike for a long time and ride it.
It will give you peace of mind to know that everything inside is new and from when it was all new.
The speedo may be correct - but it also may not be. Bikes like these have a questionable history. It's the "not knowing" that is bothersome.
It's up to you, but while you have it apart is the time to replace bearings - especially if you intend to keep the bike for a long time and ride it.
It will give you peace of mind to know that everything inside is new and from when it was all new.
most everthing I take apart is bad because I rescue old triumphs and would not trust the bearings , some times if they sit a long time they will corrode between the roller and its spot on the race , I heard about this also happening on motors that were rebuilt and never run and put in a musiem . when you split the cases please post a picture of the side of the crank that the sludge trap is on before attempting to remove it , it will tell you a lot about its history , also picture's of what you find in the trap , the crank bolt that holds the oil tube in the crank is exspensive don't lose or damage. I made a tool for removeing the oil tube out of a yammaha wheel axle . it already had threads on one end and I tapered the threaded end on a grinding wheel like you would see on a easyout tool , you can weld a tee handle on the opposite end , I put the axle in the trap opening tap it lightly not to destroy the tube and assuming it is a good fit . turn it so the threads go in a little then pull as you turn it , this should give you a general idea what you can do to get the stuborn one's out. after it the tube is out and if it real dirty I soak the crank in kerosene a day and use round wire brushes to clean it and spray solvent in the end of the crank and make sure the holes that feed the rod bearings are clean, the big end bushes are about 40$ us and if they are very scratched up and worn should be replaced , I have a bunch here that I got from a old dealer sell out you can have for shipping have attached a picture of them they are glacier brand made in uk . what country are you in ? jim
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I use kerosene to start , then dawn dish soap in super hot water castle makes a lot a good cleaners , but dawn is a good degreaser and sometimes sos, or comet, I have a glass bead blasting booth but I have to do a lot washing after , its a shame you get them nice and handleing them in assembly they get dirty from our hands, I have allways wanted a steam cleaner but I just don't have the room ! I priced some bearings they run between 60$ and 89 dollars I have a jrc dealership , other wise I could not afford to do this hobby ! jim
