Meathead#1
Member
thanks Rudie for tech talk on the exhaust pipes and signals for the T100. Interesting..
No.CHANGING THE CONTACT BREAKER OIL SEAL, THE GEARBOX DRAIN PLUG WASHER, THE KICKSTART OIL SEAL AND THE CRANK CASE DRAIN PLUG AND WASHER. ALL OF MY LEAKS STOPPED EXCEPT THE CRANK CASE LEAK FROM THE DRAIN PLUG. IS THIS BECAUSE THE ENGINE HEAT EXPANDS THE ALUMINUM AND OIL SEAPS PASSED THE WASHER?
You removed both the points and the auto-advance unit. Did you mark them and the timing chest so they were reinstalled in the same positions? Have you checked the timing with a strobe?DELAYED THROTTLE RESPONSE
DID I THROW OFF THE TIMING WHEN I CHANGED THE CONTACT BREAKER OIL SEAL?
There should not be much oil to drain from the crankcase. Do the degreasing and refitting with the the bike on its sidestand so any oil remaining in the crankcase drains away from plug opening.SEALANT ON THE PLUG. GUESS I WILL DRAIN THE OIL AND USE SEALANT ON THE CRANKCASE PLUG.
Some have a cutaway in the bottom of the taper that mates with a "lump" at the bottom of the camshaft taper. Otherwise no, marking is up to the person working on the engine.ISSUE I THINK I'M HAVING IS THAT I MAY HAVE PUT THE AUTO ADVANCE UNIT IN WRONG. ARE THERE ANY MARKINGS ON THE UNIT WHICH SHOULD LINE UP WITH ANY OTHER MARKINGS?
Strobe it rather than making random guesses?ADVANCING THE CONTACT PLATE ALL THE WAY IS STILL NOT FIXING THE THROTTLE DELAY SO THAT IS WHY I THINK THE AUTO ADVANCE UNIT IS IN WRONG.
Incorrect. Using a strobe on the markings in the primary chaincase will show if the spark timing is advancing and if/when the timing is correct. Strobing is not only for checking the timing is correct, it is also a diagnostic tool.CAN'T STROBE IT UNTIL I KNOW THE ADVANCE UNIT IS IN PROPERLY.
APPEARS THAT MY BIKE NO LONGER LEAKS THANKS TO THE SEALANT USED ON THE UNDERSIDE BOLTS
If you have not changed the fork oil since you bought the bike, you do not know either the quantity or the viscosity of what is in there, either of which can affect fork action.CHANGING THE FORK OIL. IF I USE A HEAVIER WEIGHT OIL, WILL MY FRONT SUSPENSION BE A BIT STIFFER? THE BIKE DIVES A BIT UNDER HARD BRAKING
Typically, forks that haven't been ridden and maintained much, will be gooey / milky with sludgy condensation.
then empty all the old oil out of the forks, remove the sliders and dampers, degrease them and remove any sediment and/or sludge in the bottoms of the sliders,
Possibly. Or a foreign body stuck between float needle and seat.FLOAT STUCK?
https://triumph-tiger-90.com/GENTLEMEN,
I JOINED THE FORUM TODAY AND HAD A FEWS REGARDING MY NEWLY PURCHASED (06/20/22) TRIUMPH AND YES MY CAPS BUTTON IS STUCK( KID DUMPED MAPLE SYRUP ON MY KEYBOARD). I WANTED TO KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND INFO ON WHAT ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT CAME ON THIS BIKE AND WHAT DECALS BELONG WHERE. AS FAR AS I CAN TELL FROM WEBSITES I HAVE VISITED, MY BIKE IS MOSTLY ORIGINAL. THE CARBS ARE NEW AMAL 626 AND THE FRONT RIM LOOKS NEW BUT IT'S THE CORRECT SIZE AND UK MADE. ONCE I LEARN HOW TO POST PICTURES I WILL GET SOME UP.
THE BIKE CAME WITH NO SIGNALS NOR MIRRORS. THE HEADLIGHT IS WIPAC AND THE WIRING HARNESS AND ELECTRICAL IS ALL FACTORY ACCORDING TO MEMBERS OF MY LOCAL TRIUMPH CLUB MECHANIC.
I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP IT AS ORIGINAL AS POSSIBLE AND CHANGE THINGS THAT AREN'T PERIOD CORRECT TO ITS ORIGINAL STATE (MINUS THE CARBS OF COURSE).
THAT IS A VERY INFORMATIVE SITE. THANKS SERGE1952
I have put in jets one size up, I had trouble starting and backfiring/misfiring when the throttle was open. For your situation, you might try adjusting the air jet if not already done so, and if needed, a bigger pilot jet might work. Hope this helps, good luck!LAST NIGHT I WENT UP AND DOWN THE ACH, ABOUT 60 MILES, AND THE BIKE RAN LIKE A KENYAN. THE ONE ISSUE I'M STILL HAVING IS THAT THE BIKE DOESN'T LIKE HOT STARTS. IT TAKES 5 TO 10 KICKS TO GET IT GOING AND IDLE IS DIFFICULT.
ANY THOUGHTS GENTLEMEN?
An Amal "premier" carb will work with modern fuel. You may need to re-jet (see my previous comment).try a new carburator