SIR LOIN
Member
I WILL LOOK INTO THAT OPTION COSMIC SHED. HOW DO YOU LIKE THE LED'S?
'73 DAYTONA T100R
- Thread starter SIR LOIN
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SIR LOIN
Member
I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE LEFT SIDE OF THE PIPE SEEMS TO BE BLUING MUCH MORE THAN THE RIGHT SIDE. ANY IDEAS AS TO WHY THIS IS? I'M RUNNING NGK B8ES PLUGS AND 91 OCTANE GAS.
ALSO, I WENT ON A SHORT RIDE YESTERDAY (12 MILES) JUST TO SEE IF ANY OTHER OIL LEAKS POP UP. I FOUND THE SOURCE OF MY FRONT CRANK CASE LEAK WHICH WAS SHOOTING OIL UP AND ONTO MY PIPE CROSSOVER AND THE REAR OF MY FRONT FENDER.
I TOOK THE COVER OFF THE FRONT OF THE CRANK CASE AND I'M POINTING TO THE AREA, WITH THE ALLEN WRENCH, THAT HAD OIL ON IT . THE INSIDE OF THE COVERS ALSO HAD MINIMAL OIL SPLATTER. I WIPED THE OIL CLEAN TO SEE IF IT WAS SEEPING. I STARTED THE BIKE AND SAW THAT NO OIL WAS LEAKING. I'M ASSUMING THE OIL LEAK WILL START ONCE I RIDE AND GET THE RPMS UP.
I HAD OIL COMING OUT OF THE POINTS COVER, SEALS MUST BE CHANGED AND THE COVER LACKS A GASKET, AND I NOTICED THAT THE FRONT POINT HAD A .013 GAP AND THE REAR POINT HAD NO GAP. IS THIS A NORMAL SET UP?
ALSO, I WENT ON A SHORT RIDE YESTERDAY (12 MILES) JUST TO SEE IF ANY OTHER OIL LEAKS POP UP. I FOUND THE SOURCE OF MY FRONT CRANK CASE LEAK WHICH WAS SHOOTING OIL UP AND ONTO MY PIPE CROSSOVER AND THE REAR OF MY FRONT FENDER.
I TOOK THE COVER OFF THE FRONT OF THE CRANK CASE AND I'M POINTING TO THE AREA, WITH THE ALLEN WRENCH, THAT HAD OIL ON IT . THE INSIDE OF THE COVERS ALSO HAD MINIMAL OIL SPLATTER. I WIPED THE OIL CLEAN TO SEE IF IT WAS SEEPING. I STARTED THE BIKE AND SAW THAT NO OIL WAS LEAKING. I'M ASSUMING THE OIL LEAK WILL START ONCE I RIDE AND GET THE RPMS UP.
SIR LOIN
Member
I HAVE A WIPAC HEADLIGHT AND I NEVER USE THE PILOT LIGHT. IF I INVEST IN AN LED HEADLIGHT BULB, GAUGE AND TAIL LIGHT BULBS, WILL THAT BE ENOUGH TO RECTIFY MY NIGHT RIDING ISSUE? IS THE WIPAC HEADLIGHT JUST AS BAD AS THE LUCAS WHEN IT COMES TO LIGHT REFLECTION?+1.
Only thing I found is some white LED are too bright; red LED can be brighter but will affect your night vision less.
Headlight is more vexatious ...
The only actual bulb replacement is also LED, as the standard bulb base is known as "BPF" - British Pre Focus. If you go for this option, there are a number of versions about, those that use them and like them recommend the one with eight small LED (in two rows of four) on each side.
However, the LED replacement bulb does not solve the standard headlamp's problems; both Lucas lens-reflector combinations that take BPF-base bulbs are also abysmal - neither focusses any bulb's light well - apparently the replacement LED makes the bike more visible to other road users ... because the extra light is scattered widely ...
Compounding the problem is there were originally two BPF lens-reflectors and bulbs - both interchangeable physically but not correctly:-
. 71-77 (i.e. on your bike originally) was a 516801 lens-reflector with a 370 bulb;
. before 71 was a 516798 lens-reflector with a 446 bulb;
. however, when spares were difficult in the late seventies and through the eighties, any combination could have been fitted, but wrong bulb in either lens-reflector is even worse for lighting up the road at night.
Curiously, from about mid 77 until 82, Lucas then supplied one of the best lens-reflector-bulb combinations for old Triumphs - the circular bulb base and lens-reflector known as "P45t". Unlike the BPF, the P45t lens-reflector focusses the bulb's light well,the bulb is 45/40 (main/dip Watts) so suits the standard alternator output well, it connects to the harness with the common 3-spade ("H4") plug,, the P45t lens-reflector is a straight swap for a BPF.
However, while by all means search Ebay and similar for "triumph 99-7060" and "lucas 54522680" (the bulbs are still common new as the P45t was the international automotive standard for most of the 1970's, millions of vehicles worldwide were fitted with them), the Triumph owners that have them know all of the above well ...The Wassell company that has the rights to use the "Lucas" branding choose to inflict the awful BPF lens-reflector on us new.
My preference is to use a modern lens-reflector that takes a "P43t"-base bulb (the bulb that locates with three radial tabs). Two things to watch with this option are:-
. the reflector angle - much shallower than a Lucas and it will push the warning lights out of the headlamp shell;
. possibly the bulb plug will hit the back of the shell.
Even if the plug does not hit the back of the shell, the most common one - wires straight from the spade terminals - should not be used as the shell bends the wires sharply. Say if you consider this option and I will supply more details of the better plugs.
The standard P43t bulb is 60 Watts main/55W dip; i.e. either filament draws more than one Amp extra compared to a BPF bulb; nevertheless, as long as you keep the engine rpm up, and switch to an LED pilot bulb when engine rpm must be low, it is possible the standard alternator can also keep the battery charged. Although I prefer to fit one of the later, more powerful, alternators.
Originally, it was/is more use in the UK:-
. We have always had a legal requirement known as "parking lights" - anything left on an unlit (no streetlights) public road at night must be lit; a motorcycle would normally be lit with the pilot/parking light at the front and the tail light at the rear.
. For a long time, all drivers/riders were discouraged from using headlights under streetlights at night - all vehicles using "sidelights", motorcycles and pedal cycles were easier to see, police patrolling on foot would stop vehicles using headlights. However, British police have not patrolled on foot for probably fifty years, most modern road users do not have any conception of consideration for others - aside, the latest edition of our Highway Code has introduced a definition of "vulnerable road users" (of course, motorcyclists have not been included ...).
Today, replaced with a LED, ime the "pilot light" is excellent as a bright front marker light, both in daylight and under streetlights at night, while not drawing much power.
If you consider Eagle Eye LED, the wire conductors are very thin - quite a length of each must be stripped then folded to make something that can be gripped by crimped spade (lighting switch) and bullet (harness Red wire connection) terminals; however, they have plenty of wire to practice with ...
Whatever you connect, avoid the common red, blue and yellow insulated terminals (the bullets are too large for the Lucas snap connectors). In the US, British Wiring sells correct 1/4" (wide) spade terminals, their insulators, correct Lucas-matching 3/16" o.d. bullet terminals, snap connectors that can connect more than four wires.
Happy to help and it is what the forum is for.
SIR LOIN
Member
SINCE I HAD MY TOOLS OUT TODAY, I FIGURED I WOULD TAKE THE OIL TANK OFF AND CHANGE THE HOSE (3/16 ID) WHICH GOES FROM THE TANK TO THE ROCKER OIL FEED PIPE SINCE IT WAS FRAYED.
I DRAINED THE OIL AND FOUND SOME INTERESTING THINGS.
THE CRANKCASE OIL DRAIN PLUG HAD A CRACK IN IT( SEE PHOTO). THAT EXPLAINS MY OIL LEAK FROM THERE. AFTER DRAINING THE OIL AND REMOVING THE OIL TANK I NOTICED THERE WAS STILL A BIT OF OIL SITTING IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK. USING A FLASHLIGHT TO HELP COERCE IT OUT, I TURNED THE TANK ON ITS SIDE AND THIS IS WHAT CAME OUT OF THE OIL DRAIN PLUG ( SEE PHOTO). IT APPEARS TO BE SLUDGE SINCE I DOUBT ANY BODY TAKES THE TANK OFF FOR ROUTINE OIL CHANGES AND RESIDUAL OIL JUST SITS IN THE LOWER RECESSES OF THE TANK. HOW MANY YEARS THIS DARK TARRY SUBSTANCE HAS BEEN SITTING THERE AND CIRCULATING THROUGH THE MOTOR IS ANYBODY'S GUESS.
THE OIL WAS LAST CHANGED IN OCTOBER OF 2018 AT 15,800 MILES AND I BOUGHT THE BIKE IN JUNE 2022 WITH 16,070 MILES ON THE ODOMETER. THE BIKE HAS BEEN RIDDEN A MERE 270 MILES IN NEARLY 4 YEARS. PREVIOUS OWNER DIED OF ESOPHAGEAL CANCER (HEAVY SMOKER) AND THE BIKE WAS RUN WEEKLY AROUND THE BLOCK BY HIS SON. THE OIL COLOR IS DARK YET WHEN I DIP MY FINGER IN, IT APPEARS TO BE A CLEAN BROWN COLOR (SEE PHOTO).
SHALL I CHANGE IT AND DOES THE CRANKCASE OIL FILTER (70-3722) AND FILTER SPRING (70-3724) SEEM TO BE CORRECT FOR THIS BIKE (SEE PHOTO)? THE PARTS BOOK SHOWS A DIFFERENT PHOTO OF THESE TWO ITEMS.
I DRAINED THE OIL AND FOUND SOME INTERESTING THINGS.
THE CRANKCASE OIL DRAIN PLUG HAD A CRACK IN IT( SEE PHOTO). THAT EXPLAINS MY OIL LEAK FROM THERE. AFTER DRAINING THE OIL AND REMOVING THE OIL TANK I NOTICED THERE WAS STILL A BIT OF OIL SITTING IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK. USING A FLASHLIGHT TO HELP COERCE IT OUT, I TURNED THE TANK ON ITS SIDE AND THIS IS WHAT CAME OUT OF THE OIL DRAIN PLUG ( SEE PHOTO). IT APPEARS TO BE SLUDGE SINCE I DOUBT ANY BODY TAKES THE TANK OFF FOR ROUTINE OIL CHANGES AND RESIDUAL OIL JUST SITS IN THE LOWER RECESSES OF THE TANK. HOW MANY YEARS THIS DARK TARRY SUBSTANCE HAS BEEN SITTING THERE AND CIRCULATING THROUGH THE MOTOR IS ANYBODY'S GUESS.
THE OIL WAS LAST CHANGED IN OCTOBER OF 2018 AT 15,800 MILES AND I BOUGHT THE BIKE IN JUNE 2022 WITH 16,070 MILES ON THE ODOMETER. THE BIKE HAS BEEN RIDDEN A MERE 270 MILES IN NEARLY 4 YEARS. PREVIOUS OWNER DIED OF ESOPHAGEAL CANCER (HEAVY SMOKER) AND THE BIKE WAS RUN WEEKLY AROUND THE BLOCK BY HIS SON. THE OIL COLOR IS DARK YET WHEN I DIP MY FINGER IN, IT APPEARS TO BE A CLEAN BROWN COLOR (SEE PHOTO).
SHALL I CHANGE IT AND DOES THE CRANKCASE OIL FILTER (70-3722) AND FILTER SPRING (70-3724) SEEM TO BE CORRECT FOR THIS BIKE (SEE PHOTO)? THE PARTS BOOK SHOWS A DIFFERENT PHOTO OF THESE TWO ITEMS.
Cosmic Sled
Active Member
I have yet to use in the dark, I will update you when I get the bike on the road and can try them. They seem to work great. They are a perfect fit into the original bulb holders. I expect them to outlast the original bulbs.
I will answer as many of your other questions as possible shortly but, in the meantime, could you post a photo of the bulb in the Wipac headlight, particularly of the base shape? I might have misled you waffling about the bike's original Lucas headlight.
SIR LOIN
Member
COSMIC SHED
SIR LOIN
Member
ARE THE GREEN/BROWN AND WHITE/GREEN WIRES I AM HOLDING FOR THE FLASHERS?I will answer as many of your other questions as possible shortly but, in the meantime, could you post a photo of the bulb in the Wipac headlight, particularly of the base shape? I might have misled you waffling about the bike's original Lucas headlight.
HERE YOU GO RUDIE. I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO REMOVE THE BULB FROM THE LENS UNIT. THERE IS SOME CORROSION WHICH MIGHT BE HAMPERING MY ABILITY TO TWIST IT OUT OF THE UNIT IF IN FACT THAT IS HOW IT IS REMOVED.
No. Both points gaps should be the same, each set of points can be moved independently on the backplate, so each cylinder's timing should be correct.
Could be this quote and the previous one are related?
You are in California; from a fuel pov, unfortunately ... Elsewhere in the US, 93 is available ... The higher, the better, particularly where the ambient is hot.
You better hope not. The area at the end of the Allen wrench in your photo is the right hand crankcase half; no standard openings there or near there, oil seeping or squirting from that area indicates a crack or hole in the crankcase casting.
Otoh, oil leaking from somewhere above and/or in front of the the crankcase and the "covers" (the front engine mounting plates) will deposit leaked oil inside the plates and on the crankcase covered by them ... Oil leaking from somewhere above and/or in front of the the crankcase and the engine mounting plates is much cheaper and less time consuming to fix; hope for that?
Appears to show the White/Brown wire is not connected to the oil pressure switch? If not, the red oil pressure warning light in the headlamp shell will not work.
Look more carefully at the wires:-
. The "White/Green" insulation is actually more Green than White, the White is one or two thin trace line(s) in the Green? If so, Green/White wires are for the right hand flashers. The order of colours is significant; e.g. "White/Green" - insulation mainly White with one or two thin Green trace line(s) - is one standard Lucas alternator stator wire colour combination, would only be connected between the stator and one rectifier terminal ...
. Truly Green/Brown wires connect light switch terminal #7 to the pilot light, tail light, speedo and tacho lights. Otoh, Green/Red wires are for the left hand flashers.
LED in speedo and tacho should improve their visibility, subject to white LED being too bright and red being necessary.
Standard incandescent taillight only draws 0.5 Amp, imho little gain for the financial pain swapping to LED.
If you must replace nevertheless:-
. First please confirm your bike has the standard 73 onwards Lucas 917 rear light (parts book "TAIL LAMP AND SUPPORT" pages 50/51); if it does, @Cosmic Shed should confirm the rear light on his bike; if that is standard, it is a Lucas 564, completely different from a 917, they cannot use the same LED replacement.
. The significant difference is the 564 - like most rear lights - holds the bulb horizontal, the 917 holds the bulb vertical. Not a problem with an incandescent bulb but LED are directional - if the 'bulb' is held horizontally, individual tail/brake LED will shine horizontally, licence plate LED will shine vertically; otoh, if the same 'bulb' is held vertically, individual tail/brake LED will shine vertically, licence plate LED will shine horizontally ...
if the tail/brake LED are red, even more In the UK, I can get:-
... the lower one replaces the standard bulb holder and reflector as well.
Similar in the US?
BPF bulb base and lens-reflector.
If you replace this with LED, regret I do not have any experience with a BPF bulb in a Wipac lens-reflector, I only know all the Lucas BPF combinations are only various degrees of dismal.
I appreciate you might not now, because the standard incandescent bulb is
However, as I have posted already, if you replace the incandescent bulb and its holder with a LED, it becomes As you have posted you had to remove the oil tank from the bike and turn it on its side to get the dark tarry substance out, how would it have been circulating through the motor when the tank was simply attached to the bike normally?
Oil to the engine is not drawn from the very bottom of the tank. Likely, because the bike was used only irregularly, for short periods, for at least four years, but it was used, the combustion-generated contaminants that the oil was supposed to remove simply settled out of the oil when it was sitting in the tank between the times the bike was used.
Yes. Also change the primary oil (same as the engine oil) and the gearbox oil.
73 T100 parts book, "CRANKCASE" drawing page (10) shows the same parts - #29 and #30.Standard Triumph twin oil filtration is poor - the particles that cause the most wear in the engine are sized in microns (thousandths of a millimetre). Triumph fitted triples with a proper micropore filter as standard, added one to the singles from 71. There are aftermarket kits to fit the T100 that use the triples filter element, automotive-type spin-on canisters or iirc a Honda dirt bike filter element.
If the oil tank is completely degreased, Evaporust? Normal hardware store rust remover?
SIR LOIN
Member
THANKS AGAIN RUDIE. I'M WAITING ON A FEW PARTS WHICH I SHOULD BE RECEIVING BY SATURDAY AND THEN I CAN START SWAPPING OLD PARTS OUT WITH NEW.
I WILL REACH OUT TO YOU THEN BECAUSE I KNOW I WILL HAVE MORE
S.
SHALL I GAP MY NGK PLUGS TO .020 FROM .O25 OR IS THE .020 GAP RECOMMENDED IN THE MANUAL ONLY FOR THE CHAMPION PLUGS?
I WILL REACH OUT TO YOU THEN BECAUSE I KNOW I WILL HAVE MORE
S.SHALL I GAP MY NGK PLUGS TO .020 FROM .O25 OR IS THE .020 GAP RECOMMENDED IN THE MANUAL ONLY FOR THE CHAMPION PLUGS?
Ime, NGK's normally come gapped at 0.025"? Check the gaps on your bike's; if they are somewhere between 0.020" and 0.025", unless you experience cold starting problems with the bike, imho do not change whatever gap is set now.
If you have not already, new or dry plugs, I smear a little copper grease ("Copaslip") around the bottom plug threads, refitting the plug in the head spreads the grease up the threads, plug will be easier to remove next time.
New plugs, NGK recommend torquing them to 25 lb.ft. to squeeze the sealing washer. Used plugs, I just fit them "tight", no torque wrench but not heaving on the plug wrench.
SIR LOIN
Member
THANKS RUDIE. MY NGK IS AT .025 AND I HAVE NO COLD STARTING ISSUES. I DO HAVE HOT STARTING ISSUES THOUGH. I PUT ANTI SEIZE ON THE PLUG THREADS ANYTIME I PUT THEM BACK ON THE BIKE.
I GOT MY NEW CRANKCASE DRAIN PLUG TODAY AND AS I WAS REPLACING IT I FORGOT HOW THE DOMED OIL FILTER SCREEN GOES IN. THE SPRING GOES IN FIRST AND THE DOMED PART GOES INTO THE CRANKCASE OR DOWN TOWARDS THE DRAIN PLUG?
THE PARTS CATALOG DOESN'T SHOW A DOMED SCREEN (70-3722) JUST A BASKET SCREEN. THE SPRING IS DOME SHAPED (70-3724) IN THE CATALOG YET MINE IS NOT.
I GOT MY NEW CRANKCASE DRAIN PLUG TODAY AND AS I WAS REPLACING IT I FORGOT HOW THE DOMED OIL FILTER SCREEN GOES IN. THE SPRING GOES IN FIRST AND THE DOMED PART GOES INTO THE CRANKCASE OR DOWN TOWARDS THE DRAIN PLUG?
THE PARTS CATALOG DOESN'T SHOW A DOMED SCREEN (70-3722) JUST A BASKET SCREEN. THE SPRING IS DOME SHAPED (70-3724) IN THE CATALOG YET MINE IS NOT.
TODAY AND INSPECTING MY REAR SPROCKET, I NOTICED THAT STAMPED ON MY LEFT EXHAUST PIPE IS "CAMPBELLS REPLACEMENT SILENCER. MADE IN ENGLAND." THE RIGHT PIPE ONLY READS "CAMPBELLS."Mmmm ... if you turn the "domed screen" upside down, it becomes a "basket"?
When you fit the "basket" - 70-3722 "Filter" - in the 70-9501 "Filter cap", the o.d. of the Filter is the same as the o.d. of the top of the Filter cap and there is (should be) space between the bottom of the Filter and the bottom of the cap?
When the Filter is fitted over the end of the 70-9496 "Oil scavenge pipe", the end of the pipe is below the Filter. So, when the Filter cap is fitted and the engine is running, oil will be scavenged from the space between the Filter and the bottom of the cap - i.e. only 'filtered' oil without any debris is scavenged by the oil pump back to the tank.
See the Oil scavenge pipe has a washer around it just up from the end? I doubt the 70-3724 "Filter spring" in your hand is "domed" as it must fit over the end of the scavenge pipe up to the washer on the pipe. Spring fitted on the scavenge pipe first and then the Filter, as the cap is screwed into the crankcase, the top edge of the cap will press on the outer edge of the Filter, pushing the Filter centre against the spring. The pressure of the spring compressed between scavenge pipe washer and Filter should ensure the outer edge of the Filter is pressed on to the cap, this should prevent oil with debris bypassing the Filter into the cap and then being drawn into the pump (debris potentially damaging the pump
).Although Campbell have been around a long time (fifty years?), afaik the company only ever made/make replacement and custom exhausts and mufflers, was never an oem supplier to Triumph.
SIR LOIN
Member
THANKS AGAIN FOR THE INFO RUDIE. LEARNING NEW THINGS ABOUT MY BIKE DAILY.
TODAY I CLEANED OUT THE SLUDGE IN THE OIL TANK WITH SIMPLE GREEN AND REATTACHED THE TANK TO THE BIKE. I NOTICED THAT IN ORDER FOR ME TO REMOVE THE OIL FILTER IN THE FUTURE, I MUST REMOVE THE TANK. WHEN I TRY AND UNSCREW THE FILTER, IT WON'T COME OUT COMPLETELY BECAUSE IT HITS THE BIKE FRAME.
ANY THOUGHTS?
TODAY I CLEANED OUT THE SLUDGE IN THE OIL TANK WITH SIMPLE GREEN AND REATTACHED THE TANK TO THE BIKE. I NOTICED THAT IN ORDER FOR ME TO REMOVE THE OIL FILTER IN THE FUTURE, I MUST REMOVE THE TANK. WHEN I TRY AND UNSCREW THE FILTER, IT WON'T COME OUT COMPLETELY BECAUSE IT HITS THE BIKE FRAME.
ANY THOUGHTS?
SIR LOIN
Member
I FIGURED OUT THE OIL TANK ISSUE. NEXT I HAVE IS THAT I TOOK OFF THE OIL PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE AND NOTICED THAT THE SCREEN HAD A CUT IN IT AND THERE WAS A BIT OF METAL FLAKE ON THE SCREEN.
I RAN A MAGNET THROUGH THE DRAINED GEARBOX OIL AND ENGINE OIL AND FOUND NO METAL PARTICLES ON THE MAGNET. THERE WERE ALSO NO METAL FLAKES ON ANY OF THE OIL FILTERS.
WHERE WOULD THE METAL ON THE OIL PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE COME FROM AND SHOULD I BE CONCERNED?
I HAVE IS THAT I TOOK OFF THE OIL PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE AND NOTICED THAT THE SCREEN HAD A CUT IN IT AND THERE WAS A BIT OF METAL FLAKE ON THE SCREEN.I RAN A MAGNET THROUGH THE DRAINED GEARBOX OIL AND ENGINE OIL AND FOUND NO METAL PARTICLES ON THE MAGNET. THERE WERE ALSO NO METAL FLAKES ON ANY OF THE OIL FILTERS.
WHERE WOULD THE METAL ON THE OIL PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE COME FROM AND SHOULD I BE CONCERNED?
No telling where it could have come from.
Level of concern is relative to overall closer inspection, available budget, and the flip of a coin
Photo of the flake?
Unlikely the flake came far; pending the photo, unlikely it passed through the oil pump? If it did not/could not, then it is from somewhere between pump outlet and p.r.v.
