'73 DAYTONA T100R

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SIR LOIN

Member
HELLO GENTLEMEN,

I JOINED THE FORUM TODAY AND HAD A FEW QUESTIONS REGARDING MY NEWLY PURCHASED (06/20/22) TRIUMPH AND YES MY CAPS BUTTON IS STUCK( KID DUMPED MAPLE SYRUP ON MY KEYBOARD). I WANTED TO KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND INFO ON WHAT ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT CAME ON THIS BIKE AND WHAT DECALS BELONG WHERE. AS FAR AS I CAN TELL FROM WEBSITES I HAVE VISITED, MY BIKE IS MOSTLY ORIGINAL. THE CARBS ARE NEW AMAL 626 AND THE FRONT RIM LOOKS NEW BUT IT'S THE CORRECT SIZE AND UK MADE. ONCE I LEARN HOW TO POST PICTURES I WILL GET SOME UP.

THE BIKE CAME WITH NO SIGNALS NOR MIRRORS. THE HEADLIGHT IS WIPAC AND THE WIRING HARNESS AND ELECTRICAL IS ALL FACTORY ACCORDING TO MEMBERS OF MY LOCAL TRIUMPH CLUB MECHANIC.

I WOULD LIKE TO KEEP IT AS ORIGINAL AS POSSIBLE AND CHANGE THINGS THAT AREN'T PERIOD CORRECT TO ITS ORIGINAL STATE (MINUS THE CARBS OF COURSE).
 
NEWLY PURCHASED
WANTED TO KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND INFO ON WHAT ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT CAME ON THIS BIKE
Here. :)

Also, the Triumph parts book is free to read online. If you want to find out if a part is available, or you want to look at modern images of a part, enter the part number with "triumph" into an internet search engine. Just be aware that modern images depend on who has posted them so some returned are not always accurate. Ask here if you want confirmation?

WHAT DECALS BELONG WHERE.
The major ones:-

. A cast "Triumph" badge attached to each side of the tank with two screws. These screws can usually be usefully longer, to reduce the possibility of vibration losing one (badge scratches the tank paint) or both screws (new badge and screws time :().

. "Daytona" decal on the left sidepanel.

. "MINIMUM OIL LEVEL" decal on the oil tank. This is actually 'chocolate fireguard' useful, especially as the tank cap has (should have) a dipstick attached, so many owners put another "Daytona" decal on the oil tank.

There are also numerous smaller ones, sometimes listed in the parts book but not always fitted by 73; ask about specifics?

THE FRONT RIM LOOKS NEW BUT IT'S THE CORRECT SIZE
19" diameter?

THE BIKE CAME WITH NO SIGNALS
Would have had (turn?) signals originally. Standard-looking are available new from pattern parts supplier Wassell, although the mounting stems are not always the correct lengths.

Whether you pick the above or aftermarket, installation is relatively straightforward, although a couple of gotchas.

NOR MIRRORS.
Were not supplied new, the selling dealer fitted one or two stocked accessory mirrors.

If your bike has correct handlebar switches, the lever perches have a 5/16" hole for mirror mounting. Threads on other internet forums suggest standard modern Harley Davidson mirrors are both easily available second hand and good quality. Apparently, the reason they are easily available is, although they are supplied free on new HD, new owners would rather pay more money to the dealer for other HD mirrors then try to sell the free ones ... :confused:

HEADLIGHT IS WIPAC
Not original. If it has a modern P43t base quartz-halogen bulb, the bulb can draw nearly two Amps more than the one fitted originally; monitor battery charge frequently until you know the engine rpm that will keep the battery charged.

WOULD LIKE TO KEEP IT AS ORIGINAL AS POSSIBLE AND CHANGE THINGS THAT AREN'T PERIOD CORRECT
If considering changing particularly the headlamp, choose carefully:-

. The original Lucas was appalling, will be difficult to find used (thankfully); modern Wassell Lucas replicas are at least as dire. (n)

. If you must have a headlamp with "Lucas" in the lens, Wassell do produce 7" diameter lens/reflectors which take a modern standard P43t bulb; however, they are intended for cars, I do not know how well they work on a motorcycle, might not be permitted in your state?

. Otoh, if the existing Wipac reflector does not have the hole to fit a pilot bulb, it can be worth changing it. The original pilot bulb was another 'chocolate fireguard' part but, modern LED fitted instead, the bike can have a daytime front light that is bright but draws far less power than even the headlight dip/low beam.

I have also sent you a private message ("Started a conversation" in this forum).
 
THE OIL TANK DOES HAVE THE MINIMUM OIL LEVEL STICKER. THE CAP IS BRUSHED ALUMINUM IN COLOR A LACKS THE DIPSTICK. ALSO ON THE TOP PORTION OF THE TANK PARTIALLY COVERED BY THE SEAT UNTIL YOU LIFT THE SEAT IS ANOTHER DECAL WHICH IS GOLD IN COLOR WHICH READS "USE ONLY BP ENERGOL, SHELL, CASTROL, VALVOLINE, MOBILOIL, ESSO OR REGENT HAVOLINE." ALSO TO THE RIGHT OF THAT IT READS, "IMPORTANT DRAIN OIL AND REFILL EVERY 1,500 MILES. MADE IN ENGLAND." IT IS ONE STICKER ABOUT 4"X1.5"

ON THE GAS TANK JUST LEFT OF THE CHROME TANK DIVIDER AND GAS CAP IS A DECAL WHICH READS," WORLD MOTORCYCLE SPEED RECORD HOLDER" WITH WHAT APPEARS TO BE A BIRD IN FLIGHT.

THE DAYTONA DECAL ON THE LEFT SIDE PANEL WAS BADLY WORN SO I ORDERED A NEW ONE.

THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FRAME BEHIND THE HEADLIGHT THERE IS ANOTHER DECAL WHICH READS, "MADE IN ENGLAND." THERE ARE NO OTHER DECALS.

THE RIM IS A 19" RIM WHICH SAYS MADE IN ENGLAND ON IT.

THE NUMEROUS PICTURES ON LINE THAT I HAVE SEEN, INCLUDING THE ONE ON MY HAYNES SHOP MANUAL DO NOT SHOW THE BIKE WITH TURN SIGNALS. THE 4 HOLES ARE THERE TO ACCOMMODATE ALL 4 SIGNALS THOUGH.

MY HANDLEBAR CONTROLS, I WAS TOLD, ARE THE "AMAL TYPE" THEREFORE I HAVE NO TURN SIGNAL SWITCHES NOR MIRROR MOUNTING HOLES. (SPARX TYPE).
 
In the reply box, the photo icon GP mentions, is that tiny rectangle just to the left of the smiles face.
Click on that and go from there. It's very easy to choose from a pic on your PC or any photo storage site.
 
ON THE TOP PORTION OF THE TANK PARTIALLY COVERED BY THE SEAT UNTIL YOU LIFT THE SEAT IS ANOTHER DECAL WHICH IS GOLD IN COLOR WHICH READS "USE ONLY BP ENERGOL, SHELL, CASTROL, VALVOLINE, MOBILOIL, ESSO OR REGENT HAVOLINE." ALSO TO THE RIGHT OF THAT IT READS, "IMPORTANT DRAIN OIL AND REFILL EVERY 1,500 MILES. MADE IN ENGLAND."

THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FRAME BEHIND THE HEADLIGHT THERE IS ANOTHER DECAL WHICH READS, "MADE IN ENGLAND."
(y)

ON THE GAS TANK JUST LEFT OF THE CHROME TANK DIVIDER AND GAS CAP IS A DECAL WHICH READS," WORLD MOTORCYCLE SPEED RECORD HOLDER" WITH WHAT APPEARS TO BE A BIRD IN FLIGHT.
(y) The "bird" is the stylised "Thunderbird", created for the launch of that model in 1949.

It is very similar to the "Speedbird" first created for Imperial Airways in 1932, retained subsequently by BOAC and British Airways until 1984.

According to "Turner's Triumphs" by Jeff Clew, Triumph staff wearing ties with the Thunderbird logo and flying with BOAC or British Airways were often given special treatment by airline staff, who mistook the logo and assumed they were also BOAC/BA staff.

the Triumph parts book is free to read online.
OIL TANK
CAP IS BRUSHED ALUMINUM IN COLOR A LACKS THE DIPSTICK.
The Triumph parts book, .pdf pages 58 and 59 are captioned "OIL TANK", part #2 is 82-9659 "FILLER CAP AND DIPSTICK".

If you want to find out if a part is available, or you want to look at modern images of a part, enter the part number with "triumph" into an internet search engine.
"triumph 82-9659" into Google, all the returned images show a cap with a dipstick.

THE NUMEROUS PICTURES ON LINE THAT I HAVE SEEN, INCLUDING THE ONE ON MY HAYNES SHOP MANUAL DO NOT SHOW THE BIKE WITH TURN SIGNALS.
All 71 and later Triumphs and BSA's - with the exception of competition versions like the BSA B50MX - were fitted with turn signals as standard.

Triumph C range (unit engine) 350 and 500 workshop manual, .pdf page 248 captioned "KE00001" (September of the 1971 model year), note all the mentions of "FLASHER" and "FLASHERS".

71 or later wiring diagrams in any manual in the index, note the mentions of "FLASHER" and "FLASHERS" in all of them.

1973 Triumph brochure showing all models in the range fitted with turn signals.

73 T100 Triumph parts book .pdf page 69 captioned "HEADLAMP AND FLASHER LAMPS" and listing the parts of the turn signal illustrated on page 68.

"1973 triumph T100" into Google, the overwhelming majority of returned images show standard Lucas turn signals fitted.

Haynes manuals are infamously unreliable.

MY HANDLEBAR CONTROLS, I WAS TOLD, ARE THE "AMAL TYPE" THEREFORE I HAVE NO TURN SIGNAL SWITCHES NOR MIRROR MOUNTING HOLES. (SPARX TYPE).
73 T100 Triumph parts book .pdf pages 62 and 63 captioned "HANDLEBAR AND CONTROL LEVERS":-

. The only parts made by Amal were the TWISTGRIP assembly (part #3) and AIR CONTROL LEVER assembly (part #14).

. The original switch clusters were made by Lucas, the bodies were lacquered aluminium alloy castings ("LUCAS" and "169SA" cast into them), the pushbuttons and levers were black plastic, illustrated and functions listed on .pdf page 6 of the 1973 Triumph 500 Owner's Handbook.

. Each matching lever perch casting was also lacquered aluminium alloy, included a 5/16" i.d. hole for mirror mounting (these holes had been included in all 70 and later lever perches).

These switch clusters and lever perches were fitted to all drum brake Triumphs and BSA's between 71 and 74. However, 73 and 74, the Daytona was the only model still using the same right hand switch cluster and lever perch, because it was one of only two models that still used a front drum brake, lamp switch incorporated in the brake cable (the other drum braked model was the TR5T, had different handlebar switches, the other models had a front disc brake from 73, lamp switch incorporated in the similar right hand switch cluster).

Levers were originally polished alloy also but, possibly by 73, they had been changed to chromed steel (still pivoting in the alloy perch castings).

If your bike does not have the handlebar controls illustrated and listed in the 73 parts book and Owner's Handbook, it does not have standard 73 handlebar controls.

Sparx is a supplier of pattern copies of original Lucas handlebar switch clusters. Their copies are identified by "SPARX" cast on or stamped into bodies where original Lucas had "LUCAS" cast or stamped.
 
HERE ARE SOME PIX OF MY BIKE. CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT IS '73 DAYTONA AND WHAT ISN'T?
LITE.jpg
RITE.jpg
LEFT.jpg

thumbnail.jpg
FRONT.jpg
TANK.jpg
 
TELL ME WHAT IS '73 DAYTONA AND WHAT ISN'T?
Most of the parts making up even a brand new 73 Daytona were not unique to it - the frame and parts that attach to it had been the same since 67 (except for fastener threads), engine parts had been the same since 69, the cylinder block had been the same since 59 ... :cool:

What often made 71-74 Daytona parts more unusual was 650's cycle parts had changed radically for 71 - whereas 67-70 all 350 and 500 versions (including Daytonas) shared many parts with the 650's, they shared far fewer 71-74.

Caveats written ... :cool:

73 VIN stamped on front frame loop and the drive side crankcase half suggests they are likely original. If you do not want to post photos of the frame and engine VIN here in the thread, I will suggest another way in our Conversation? Photos of the VIN, I can maybe offer an opinion on whether things like background and stamp font point to original or newer components?

Drive side crankcase half has another code stamped on the bottom engine mounting lug; if the timing side crankcase has the same code on its lug, the cases likely came from Meriden as a pair.

Your photos show mostly components that could be original on a 73 Daytona; the two areas that definitely are not are the tank paint and the handlebar controls:-

. Tank paint looks like it was modelled on the US market 70 Bonneville - enter "1970 triumph t120r" into a search engine, look at the returned images and you should see what I mean (the tank itself cannot be 70 Bonneville - 650 engines, front frame loops and tanks are a little longer than C range).

. Mentioning the tank, any chance of relatively close-up photos of the right and left bottom rear corners, including the tap?

. The handlebars and controls look like a collection of pattern parts:-

.. If your bike was originally a US market version, the handlebars at least look similar to the parts book 97-4252. Otoh, if your bike was originally a UK & General Export version because of the larger tank, it more likely had the parts book 97-4251 bars, not available today but very similar dimensions to 97-1871.

.. The grips look like Beston - moulded on the widest part of each grip? Based on 69 onwards original Gran Turismo grips but 5" overall length instead of original GT's 4-3/4"?

.. Again if your bike was originally a US market version, the twin cable twistgrip in your photos is also 'correct'. Otoh, again if your bike was originally a UK & General Export version, it more likely had the single cable twistgrip shown and listed on the parts book "HANDLEBAR AND CONTROL LEVERS" pages. The single cable goes to a "Junction box" (same as part #8 in the "AIR CABLE" on the parts book "CONTROL CABLES" pages), then two cables from the Junction box, one to each carburettor.

.. The brake and clutch levers have some similarities to original Amal levers fitted before 71 - chromed steel, clamp around the bars; however, original Amal perches were big enough to have a 5/16" i.d. mirror mounting hole and room to spare ...

.. Triumph never used the horn button/headlight dipswitch on the left bar. The builder has tried to replicate pre 71 controls (to avoid the cost of turn signals?), Triumph did fit a combined switch with the same functions ...:-
s-l500.jpg

... but pre 71 bars have two small holes to mount it ...
 
DOES THE FRONT BRAKE ASSEMBLY LOOK LIKE IT'S A DAYTONA ITEM? I WAS TOLD THE FRONT RIM WAS NEWER WHICH IT APEARS TO BE BECAUSE IT LACKS THE PIN PRICK CORROSION WHICH EXISTS IN THE REAR RIM.
 
FRONT BRAKE ASSEMBLY LOOK LIKE IT'S A DAYTONA ITEM?
(y)

Front rim - look very carefully all around the flat part on both sides. If you find "DUNLOP" or "JONES" with a part number pressed into the steel, the rim is either original to the bike or at least 'correct'.

If you do not find either maker's details, or something different, the rim is most likely a later pattern component. The only other possibility is it is original but rechromed - the polishing before rechroming could easily remove the maker's stamp.
 
I FOUND MADE IN ENGLAND STAMPED ON THE LEFT SIDE AND A UNION JACK STICKER WITH CWC ON IT.
Central Wheel Components in the UK; probably supplied a local US wheel builder with both the rim and new spokes.

HERE ARE THE GAS TANK PIX YOU REQUESTED. CURIOUS TO KNOW WHAT THIS CAME FROM.
:y152: again.

As I posted in our conversation, the single tap outlet indicates a 'UK & General Export' T100 tank; a US market tank would have two tap outlets, one in the same position as the pictured tank, the other in the corresponding bottom right hand corner. Neither tank fits any other Triumph model.

Your photo of the bottom right hand corner does not show any work to block off a tap outlet there (although, if the work was done by a skilled sheet metal worker, I would not expect to see evidence under good paint).

The proof will be filling the tank from empty - a 'UK & General Export' T100 tank will take a little over 3.5 US gallons, a US market tank will take only a little over 2.5 US gallons.

However, the tap in your photos is one of the two different ones fitted only to US market T100 tanks, 82-2800/1 shown and listed on the parts book "GAS TANKS" pages.

The 'main' tap was/is usually fitted in a tank's right hand outlet; specifically this tap has a length of pipe inside the tank; when the tap is turned on, fuel can be drawn only until the tank level reaches the top of the pipe, then the engine will stutter, the rider turns on the 'reserve' tap, knowing he/she must look for a fuel station.

The 'reserve' tap was/is usually fitted in a tank's left hand outlet; specifically this tap does not have any pipe inside the tank; when this tap is turned on, fuel is drawn from the bottom of the tank until the tank is empty.

Obviously with only a single tap outlet from a tank, neither of the 82-2800/1 taps are suitable. Although the larger UK&GE tank is listed in the parts book, the correct tap for the single outlet - 82-1717 - is not:-
572001.jpg,qitok=FKCz6xDv.pagespeed.ce.V8TJSaulRm.jpg
572001.jpg

... the ends are plungers, pull to turn on the tap, push to turn off, the plungers ends are different shapes so 'main' and 'reserve' can be felt with a gloved hand. (y)

I have not forgotten you would prefer standard but: the tap obviously must be positioned so you can reach both plungers when sitting on the bike; however, unlike the 82-2800/1 taps, there is not enough thread as standard both to fit a 83-0006 locknut and fit the tap in the tank ... :( Triumph intended the fitter to file :eek: the tap's 82-1511 sealing washer so the tap reached the correct position when it clamped the sealing washer to the tank ...

The tap is relatively easy to machine to reduce the cast hexagon to the thread diameter then extend the thread, to use the same locknut, 83-0002 and 70-7351 sealing washers as the 82-2800/1 taps; (y) however, that does require access to a 1/4"BSP (British Standard Pipe thread) die to extend the thread, additional expense if the machinist has (or you have) to buy it.

Ime and mho, not 'standard' but easier to fit and use is an Italian tap similar to the ones Meriden fitted from 82:-
17105460.jpg

... and a 83-7970 metric-BSP adapter (the Italian taps have the metric thread).
 
UNFORTUNATELY, MY PETCOCK DOES NOT HAVE A RESERVE SETTING. WE HAVE A PRINCE OF DARKNESS RIDE THIS SATURDAY NIGHT WITH THE SOCAL NORTON CLUB SO I WILL HAVE THE TANK CAPACITY INFO ON SUNDAY.

IDK HOW YOU KNOW ALL THIS RUDIE BUT I'M GLAD YOU DO. I HAVE LEARNED QUITE A BIT IN THESE FEW POSTS. THANKS AGAIN FOR THE ENLIGHTENMENT.
 

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