Very nice looking bike. 
1983 Triumph T140W 750 TSS; 8 valves & electric start!
- Thread starter CarlS
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Hi Sea Dog,
A long while back you updated you clutch plates with a 7 plate conversion. How did that work out? After a couple of years, can you give some feed back?
I am going to do the same to my TSS this weekend, but before I start, it would be great to hear any "ups" or "downs" regarding this conversion on a TSS.
With my current stock set-up, the clutch plates stick ferociouly, requiring way too much effort to free them up.
The existnig stock plates look very oily, and I am wondering if a thorough clean and re-assembly would solve the problem, but from your experince this may be a wasted effort.
Also do you have any thoughts about putting the first two bonded plates together, as you did. (The bonded inside of the clutch basket and the first plate). Having two bonded plates engaging doesn't seem quite right, but that is just my intutive feel, I have no experience to say otherwise.
Last question; the previous owner used some very powerful gasket glue on both sides of the primary case gasket, that does not come off easily. After repeated chemical cleaning and careful scraping, it still doesn't seem quite clean enough. Any tips?
Thanks in advance; have not heard much from this thread lately, I hope that everything is going well.
Regarads,
Pat
A long while back you updated you clutch plates with a 7 plate conversion. How did that work out? After a couple of years, can you give some feed back?
I am going to do the same to my TSS this weekend, but before I start, it would be great to hear any "ups" or "downs" regarding this conversion on a TSS.
With my current stock set-up, the clutch plates stick ferociouly, requiring way too much effort to free them up.
The existnig stock plates look very oily, and I am wondering if a thorough clean and re-assembly would solve the problem, but from your experince this may be a wasted effort.
Also do you have any thoughts about putting the first two bonded plates together, as you did. (The bonded inside of the clutch basket and the first plate). Having two bonded plates engaging doesn't seem quite right, but that is just my intutive feel, I have no experience to say otherwise.
Last question; the previous owner used some very powerful gasket glue on both sides of the primary case gasket, that does not come off easily. After repeated chemical cleaning and careful scraping, it still doesn't seem quite clean enough. Any tips?
Thanks in advance; have not heard much from this thread lately, I hope that everything is going well.
Regarads,
Pat
Two of either type of plates together serve no purpose except as a spacer. Remember, the meshing teeth will not allow them to move relative to each other.
Use a brass wire brush or wheel in a drill (carefully) to clean gasket mating surfaces.
Use a brass wire brush or wheel in a drill (carefully) to clean gasket mating surfaces.
Grandpaul,
You are absolutely right.
I missed that one completely.
Thanks for setting me straight.
Now that you have me thinking a little deeper, in your experience, do each of the clutch plates wear pretty evenly, or do some wear more quickly based on their location reltative to the inside center of the clutch basket?
Regards,
Pat
You are absolutely right.
I missed that one completely.
Thanks for setting me straight.
Now that you have me thinking a little deeper, in your experience, do each of the clutch plates wear pretty evenly, or do some wear more quickly based on their location reltative to the inside center of the clutch basket?
Regards,
Pat
Hello Pat,
Been very busy as of late, work, family holidays and riding motorcycles. The standard clutch on the TSS is effectively a 7 plate with the bonded material on the clutch sprocket / housing. The modern 7 plate clutch pack has the same overall thickness (All the plates) as the original clutch pack. The reason I placed bonded to bonded on the first plate I inserted, is that I did not want to use the original bonded material at all. This may have resulted in a continuing sticking clutch. After a few years of service and over 7000 miles of use, the new clutch operates perfectly. To the extent that I now only use the electric starter, never free up the plates before starting and 1st gear snicks in like a modern motorcycle. Have just returned from being overseas for 3 weeks and 1st gear selected perfectly without noise. I am very impressed. I purchased my new boned plates from British Spares in New Zealand. Hope this helps. It will make the world of difference.
Been very busy as of late, work, family holidays and riding motorcycles. The standard clutch on the TSS is effectively a 7 plate with the bonded material on the clutch sprocket / housing. The modern 7 plate clutch pack has the same overall thickness (All the plates) as the original clutch pack. The reason I placed bonded to bonded on the first plate I inserted, is that I did not want to use the original bonded material at all. This may have resulted in a continuing sticking clutch. After a few years of service and over 7000 miles of use, the new clutch operates perfectly. To the extent that I now only use the electric starter, never free up the plates before starting and 1st gear snicks in like a modern motorcycle. Have just returned from being overseas for 3 weeks and 1st gear selected perfectly without noise. I am very impressed. I purchased my new boned plates from British Spares in New Zealand. Hope this helps. It will make the world of difference.
I've never seen a set of clutch plates where some were more worn than others, except in a total mixed back pack with several different brands that were probablyh already unequally worn when they went in.
GRIN
Member
Re: 1983 Triumph T140W 750 TSS; 8 valves & electric start!
The last TSS I worked on ,as the clutch basket was heavilly worn which off course has the friction material stuck on the back along with the thinner plates,this type is NLA.
So I fitted a beltdrive with alloy clutch basket along with alloy plates worked a treat,no more sticking heavy clutch.
- - - Updated - - -
The last TSS I worked on ,as the clutch basket was heavilly worn which off course has the friction material stuck on the back along with the thinner plates,this type is NLA.
So I fitted a beltdrive with alloy clutch basket along with alloy plates worked a treat,no more sticking heavy clutch.
- - - Updated - - -
Last edited:
GRIN
Member
Very, very nice.
Welcome, Grin.
A bit non-standard, but I'll bet it was a fun ride.
A bit non-standard, but I'll bet it was a fun ride.
Excellent thread guys. Immensely helpfull. I just picked up a project TSS over in Perth cheap as chips.
It appears to be a UK spec locally delivered model with wire wheels.
It's matching numbers
It was missing some of rocker gear but I somehow managed to pick up 2 spare top ends from an old Triumph dealer over here who worked on them and converted a lot of them back to 4 valve heads back in the day. He said he also wrecked a few 20 years ago so doubts there are many left in WA.
Mine is a light blue colour with no black underneath, any chance it may have left the factory this way?
The engine has been in bits since the mid 90s
It appears to be a UK spec locally delivered model with wire wheels.
It's matching numbers
It was missing some of rocker gear but I somehow managed to pick up 2 spare top ends from an old Triumph dealer over here who worked on them and converted a lot of them back to 4 valve heads back in the day. He said he also wrecked a few 20 years ago so doubts there are many left in WA.
Mine is a light blue colour with no black underneath, any chance it may have left the factory this way?
The engine has been in bits since the mid 90s
I've not studied all the paint schemes that may have been available on 70s Triumphs, so I can't help.
Welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum!
Bit of help please guys; I'm returning my front brake hoses to the standard Triumph layout (owing to a serious leak from one of the braided hose joints) but I could use a bit of assistance with the position of the hoses between the fork yokes.
I have got a collection of fittings that looks like a disabled spider, and it would be really helpful to see a photo or two of how yours are fitted. Any chance please?
I shall probably upgrade the rubber hoses to braided equivalent from Norman Hyde, in due course.
Thanks for your help.
I have got a collection of fittings that looks like a disabled spider, and it would be really helpful to see a photo or two of how yours are fitted. Any chance please?
I shall probably upgrade the rubber hoses to braided equivalent from Norman Hyde, in due course.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Mike.
A Steel pipe runs from the upper triple clamp to the brass 4 way union where the brake light switch is located. A steel pipe to each brake caliper hose then leads off the brass union. The brass union is mounted on a bracket which is mounted to the lower triple clamp. Photos below show the basic layout. First image is from the front and second from the rear.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the pics SeaDog, they were exactly what I was after. I expect the short metal top pipe runs to a union fastened through the top yoke, yes? Theres not a lot of spare space in there is there? Still, the main question is answered i.e. where the bracket for thd junction is bolted.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Hi Mike,
You are correct that the pipe runs to the union fastened through in the top yoke.
Pleased I could be of service.
Triumph Tom
Well-Known Member
What would it take to upgrade a 1977 750 to those heads?
The short answer is no. Mike has touched on the fundamental differences apron which you can add head stud positions are different, pushrod tube angles and many other details. I would suspect finding a head would be challenging as well, unless you have one. With out a doubt, sourcing a complete TSS is the way to go. You will not be disappointed.
Reasonably sure the UK models only came out in Black with gold pin striping and the US models black with red princes wings with gold pin striping. Having said that, anything could have been possible in the factory where resources were very limited and parts were cobbled together. You could contact "The Vintage Motorcycle Club LTD" in Staffordshire UK ([email protected]) and request an extract from the works records. You will need to supply your engine / frame number. The colour is on the extract. ATB with getting your TSS up and running. Keep us updated with news and photos.
