Dip switch blowing fuses!

[gasman]

Well you guys did tell me to ask if I had problems - so it serves you right!

My '78 Tiger is blowing fuses when I try to switch to main beam - bulb seems ok and the bike was rewired before I bought it. The wiring in the headlamp looks fine. Any ideas folks.

And number two - after the bike was delivered and just put in the garage I tried to restart it and the clutch cable went at the gearbox end - cable just pulled out of the case. Ordered a new cable and gasket and bought some oil ready to drain down and take the case off. Just about to start and just for fun popped a flexi -magnet through the inspection hole. After two or three dips low and behold out came the offending nipple. Should I still drain down just in case there are any bits left?

Oh and by the way sandcastles or concrete castles don't count.

 

[DaveM]

Well if you already have the oil I would say drain it as you just never know what may be in it

 

[CarlS]

I agree with Dave. I would definitely make sure there are no little broken bits in there.

 

[The Seeker]

Personally, I'd leave the case alone since you got the loose bit out OK. I assume you got the new cable attached OK through the hole?

I say this because re-installing the case with the kick starter spring and all can be quite tricky (and I've done it a couple hundred times).

As far as the dip switch blowing fuses goes......it could be various things.

You say the wiring inside the headlamp looks good, but all it takes is a bare spot touching something/anything. Check out EVERY connection and be sure no metal is visible that could touch on something else. What about the back of the bulb itself when you press all those wires back into the shell? Or, the dip switch itself may need opened up and checked for problems.

 

[devo]

Oh and by the way sandcastles or concrete castles don't count.

thats gunna lower the odds a bit for me
back in the stone age the only inhabitants we had here were birds and lizards.

 

[grandpaul]

Sounds like you may have a bare spot inside the switch cluster that causes a short when you switch it.

 

[The Seeker]

Sounds like you may have a bare spot inside the switch cluster that causes a short when you switch it.

That's what I was thinking too.

On the '78s, the switch should be CAREFULLY taken apart over top of something non-porous and watch very closely for tiny pieces that fall out. There's a very small ball-bearing in there to watch for. Pay attention to how it's assembled so you can get it back together.

 

[gasman]

Thanks for your help guys - there was also a problem with the twistgrip sticking - simple solution the handgrip was on too far. This got me thinking the delivery guy had used straps onto the ends of the handlebars in transit. Could this have pushed the grips causing the sticking grip and could it have damaged the switch?

 

[The Seeker]

The headlamp switch is on the left side and not on the throttle side so I'm not sure how that would do it.

He MAY (?) have damaged the wires that exit from the switch and caused a wire to become bare and is now grounding out on the switch or the handlebar though.

 

[gasman]

Thanks for that! Maybe its a UK thing but the indicator switch is on the left and the headlight dip switch is on the right hand sde. Will replace and see if that helps, no obvious shorts in the lamp.

 

[The Seeker]

That's weird???

You mean your switches don't look like these (my '78 T140V):

 

[gasman]

Totally different! The left is the indicator with a siimilar switch, but in black, as your indicator on the right. The left switch, which is Prince of Darkness, has the kill switch. The right hand switch, which a new Sparx unit has the headlight dip and main, vertical movement along with the horn and the main beam flash button. I have been having a play and all appears to be ok when I put sideways pressure on the dip switch. Will order a new one up tonight! Love the shape and colour scheme of your tank!

 

[The Seeker]

Wow....I didn't realize the Euro models were different!

Both my left and right switch housing are LUCAS and are original as far as I know.

The buttons above and below the kill switch on the right don't do anything at all......there are no wires connected to them when I open-up the housing.

The paint is all original also.

 

[gasman]

Would you risk taking the switch apart or just buy replacement?

 

[The Seeker]

Well, I'm imminently CHEAP so I'd attempt to fix it myself first.

Besides, if you screw it up or can't fix it...you'll still be in the same predicament.

Those switch housings are also quite expensive!

 

[gasman]

How do they come off? Please!!!

 

[The Seeker]

Going on just memory here, but I believe there are 3 screws holding/clamping them onto the bars. Look underneath and from the front to locate them. DO NOT over-tighten them when putting them back on!

 

[The Seeker]

My right-hand switch is integrated with the brake master cylinder, BTW.

 

[CarlS]

Wow....I didn't realize the Euro models were different!

I did not know that either. I learned something today.

 

[gasman]

is intergrated and can't find any instructions anywhere!