It's probably sacriledge to suggest a fly screen on the FL but I found on my Bobber that the flyscreen makes longer rides tolerable by taking about 85% of the wind pressure off my chest.
Touring On A Meriden Bike
- Thread starter NM Bonny
- Start date
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It may not be long before I’ll need to seek the Rocket and get something that weighs less. I’m having arm and hand issues. I’m thinking Bobber, T120 or 900 Scrambler.
Eighty-five percent? Holy cow...
I'm beyond sacrilege as my '51 FL is only OEM at its vital core: unadulterated frame & triple trees, lower half of the engine (matching belly numbers & original crank and rods), tranny, both hubs and rear wheel. The tank is a '61, speedo a '67 police special Stewart Warner that I rebuilt, fenders '70s aftermarket items, front end my own DIY hybrid disc setup, etc., etc.
So, yes: I've considered fabricating something smallish to fit it, as I haven't found anything commercially offered that I like considering the bike's unique aesthetics (I only recently found out that the exhaust I pieced together is almost identical to a very old Knucklehead OEM setup).
However, the other issues quickly overwhelm the advantages re: a vintage touring bike. For me, anyway, the FL is a blast to ride and utterly reliable, easy to maintain, etc.
But for gobbling up highway miles while still possessing the vintage cache and (more important to me) the ineffable qualities that net the larger-than-the-sum-of-its-parts relationship between rider and a true vintage machine, I'm drawn to the '70s~early '80s Beemers.
Again, though, that's if I am unsatisfied with this modified '71 OIF bike for interstate touring. Who knows? I might like it just fine for that duty--and per the restoration/mods thread, I've secured a Morgo 750 kit for it, and Speedrattle has referred me to an outfit that may be able to make up a smaller rear chain ring that would net even further reduced highway rpms...
But if I were to reach the conclusion that the Bonny is for in-state excursions only, then I'd be selling the FL to fund the R100 purchase. Can't afford three bikes on my modest retirement budget...
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Yeah man! Get a T120R and dial it in to suit your predilections. I've had a lot of fun, and it's a comparatively cheap route to a very unique mount. I mean, a complete clutch kit was $219.95, which included: new steel clutch basket with bearings and thrust washer, new steel and bonded clutch plates, Barnett springs, shaft key, and primary housing gasket. That's years of riding after a leisurely weekend's work.
I'll be posting some GoPro footage soon enough, so you can see what she's like to ride, as it were. I was turning the engine over while preparing to true the clutch pressure plate, and kicking this 650 is child's play compared to the 74" Hog (and yes, the compression is still quite good).
I have a 2017 T120 that I enjoy riding, very much. Bought it as an in-town bike with my Rocket reserved for only touring and long haul duty. I upgraded the T120 suspension with some K-Techs in the back and progressive springs and pre-load caps in the front.
Discovered I don't do long haul or touring anymore so traded the Rocket for my 2020 Bobber and kept the T120 too. Both great for the way I ride any more, but thought I should try something sportier, even if it isn't very often, which led me to buying the Thruxton R. That experience of EFI selectable power bands prompted a Speed Tripple RS purchase, and there was the end to my acquiring 1200's. The RS has more of everything except weight than all my other Triumphs. It weighs 437 pounds dripping wet and the dyno numbers said over 150HP. And oddly it has the most comfortable seat (altho the pegs kinda wad me up a bit).
All that to say a lighter nimbler bike (like your Speed 400) can be just as much fun as the power of the 'beast' is addicting. My RS is the best of all those worlds IMO, light, agile, powerful, easy to handle and a lot of fun to act like a hooligan on.
I was about to despair in looking at tank bags... and then found this gem. Perfect size (and expands taller), straightforward attachment, massive map pocket, straps turn it into a backpack, really well-constructed with heavy-duty zippers... and $99.
Nice fit for Meriden tanks...
Nice fit for Meriden tanks...
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I’ve stayed away from tanks back because my fear is though scratch the tank
Yeah, I had one on my '76 Honda 550 Four that I used daily, but back then they all came with a neoprene pad that wasn't abrasive at all. The bottom material they have on this bag is not bad, but I'd want something gentler as I've got pristine paint on this bike.
I'm 99% sure I can buy an inexpensive 1'x1' chunk of 1/4" thick neoprene on Scamazon that could easily be fashioned into a custom-fit, no-mar pad. Just trim to size, cut some slits for the straps and buckles to pass through, and voila. That was my plan when I bought this one...
Yup: found some good-quality 1/4" stuff, very cheap. I can double it up if I wanted 1/2" pad but I don't think it's necessary...
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Magnetic base? If not, it will slide about, irrespective how good the straps appear to be (this from long distance touring since I bought my T160).
One of the best "tank bags" I had was the first - a surplus nylon parachute bag, placed on a towel on the tank, secured by two bungees around the tank; black bin bag inside the parachute bag to keep the contents dry ...
Before, magnetic tank bags, I used to use a towel. Another thing I have done for many years is, when having a tank sprayed, I ask for additional clear lacquer coats, small scratches can then be polished out without affecting the paint; the theory was the lacquer can be be resprayed but, so far, that has not been needed.
Magnetic base? If not, it will slide about, irrespective how good the straps appear to be (this from long distance touring since I bought my T160).
One of the best "tank bags" I had was the first - a surplus nylon parachute bag, placed on a towel on the tank, secured by two bungees around the tank; black bin bag inside the parachute bag to keep the contents dry ...
Before, magnetic tank bags, I used to use a towel. Another thing I have done for many years is, when having a tank sprayed, I ask for additional clear lacquer coats, small scratches can then be polished out without affecting the paint; the theory was the lacquer can be be resprayed but, so far, that has not been needed.
Yeah, it says magnetic but I can't detect any such thing. Looks like a straightforward, 4-strap arrangement with a softish pad on the bottom--exactly what I was looking for--but not soft enough for me. Hence the neoprene pad material, en route.
But I like your idea of even softer Terry cloth. I cut-and-sew a custom-sized layer with oversized, reinforced 'button hole' openings for the straps. (Sewing new pads for dining set and window seats, so already have the machine out...)
It has a rain fly, as you've seen, and that has a map window, too! Really a great little bag.
I could easily add more clear coats, as this tank R&R's so easily--one of the neat things about the OIF bikes. I may do that, but I'm thinking the neoprene or certainly that plus a Terry cloth layer will do the trick!
On mine, the magnets are not only under the bag itself but also in two flaps that, when pulled apart from under the bag, each flap attaches to one side of the tank. Off the bike, the two flaps fold over the magnets under the bag itself, so the bag can be put down and the magnets will not pick up rubbish that could then scratch the tank.
Mine makes a quiet "clonk" as the magnets attach to the tank.
Ah... I will have to take a look mañana. Maybe they're tucked up in there.
I tried out my new sewing machine today to see how it works and tune up my skills. Decided that I gotta have some bell bottoms to go with the '71 Bonneville...
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Bloodknot
Well-Known Member
Had you thought of going tubeless? The work needed to seal the spoke nipples is not overly complicated. A puncture then becomes a task that can be tackled without even removing the wheel.
Whilst on the subject of tyres you can get micro beads that are poured into the tyre through the valve stalk, obviously the valve needs removing first, that means no more stick on balancing weights.
So, indeed there were magnet tabs tucked up inside the bottom. They actually hold the empty tank reasonably well--though I'd never ride a loaded bag without straps affixed, too...
The fabric is kind of clingy but has just enough texture that I would think over time it'd rub off the clear coat. Just a matter of wet-sanding and respraying the tank but I'd rather avoid that if possible.
So, here are some shots of the 1/4" wet suit-type neoprene I got on Scamazon. Decent quality. Not only provides some more ding protection if I were carrying something hard in the tank bag and hit a big pothole I couldn't avoid, but also is softer re: the paint.
This means solely relying on straps but with quick-release buckles that's no biggie. I might put a few hand stitches through the material and straps near the buckles or attach some velcro to the tank bag side of the pad to make gas stops less fiddly...?
Plenty left over, so anyone who wants a patch for their tank bag, just PM me.
The fabric is kind of clingy but has just enough texture that I would think over time it'd rub off the clear coat. Just a matter of wet-sanding and respraying the tank but I'd rather avoid that if possible.
So, here are some shots of the 1/4" wet suit-type neoprene I got on Scamazon. Decent quality. Not only provides some more ding protection if I were carrying something hard in the tank bag and hit a big pothole I couldn't avoid, but also is softer re: the paint.
This means solely relying on straps but with quick-release buckles that's no biggie. I might put a few hand stitches through the material and straps near the buckles or attach some velcro to the tank bag side of the pad to make gas stops less fiddly...?
Plenty left over, so anyone who wants a patch for their tank bag, just PM me.
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I should note per the main restoration/mods thread, the bike is now running, registered, and just needs a kickstand repair (parts en route) to be road-ready.
However, I loath the fiddly carb-to-manifold connection with the Amal 930s, and given that I'm planning a week-long, interstate backroads tour would hate to have to carry that gigantic wrench that fits the manifold locking nuts. To say nothing of having to futz by the side of the road with O-rings, cup washers, and cramped space to thread on the locknuts (oh, my!).
Yes, I plan on making a spanner that size to fit my tool kit, as it also fits the caps that secure the fork tubes--but there are other issues with the Amal mounting I don't like related to hot weather running, vibration atomizing the fuel in the float bowls... yuck.
So: these brand new 930s will now be removed, drained of fuel and wiped down, and for sale at a bargain price complete with new cables, new cup-and-o'ring nut kits, a set of fat manifold O-rings, and nifty aluminum screw-on throat extenders (see pic) for the new K&N filters I have fitted. I think their slight extra length also facilitates better OEM air box sealing, too...
PM me if interested in getting ahead of the listing...
I've ordered a pair of 30mm Mikunis, which should be here soon, I hope.
However, I loath the fiddly carb-to-manifold connection with the Amal 930s, and given that I'm planning a week-long, interstate backroads tour would hate to have to carry that gigantic wrench that fits the manifold locking nuts. To say nothing of having to futz by the side of the road with O-rings, cup washers, and cramped space to thread on the locknuts (oh, my!).
Yes, I plan on making a spanner that size to fit my tool kit, as it also fits the caps that secure the fork tubes--but there are other issues with the Amal mounting I don't like related to hot weather running, vibration atomizing the fuel in the float bowls... yuck.
So: these brand new 930s will now be removed, drained of fuel and wiped down, and for sale at a bargain price complete with new cables, new cup-and-o'ring nut kits, a set of fat manifold O-rings, and nifty aluminum screw-on throat extenders (see pic) for the new K&N filters I have fitted. I think their slight extra length also facilitates better OEM air box sealing, too...
PM me if interested in getting ahead of the listing...
I've ordered a pair of 30mm Mikunis, which should be here soon, I hope.
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Not had time to read this thread thoroughly to post any other suggestions but one wrench you might want to consider is Triumph 60-4531. Cannot post a photo,
it is a combination wrench but with a difference - the ring is Originally only supplied in the T160 toolkit.
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Not had time to read this thread thoroughly to post any other suggestions but one wrench you might want to consider is Triumph 60-4531. Cannot post a photo,
Here's a photo: Klempf's stocks it and many others I should probably check out (thanks for the prompt). However, the rear axle nut on my bike is around 15/16".
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Tch, my bad;
the axle thread is 5/8"-18 (UNF), you are correct about the hex and wrench ring AF.
speedrattle
Member
flat-slide or round-slide? either way, mikunis are an excellent choice for a 650 or 750 triumph. theyre easy to mount, easy to tune, and give excellent performance. but the VM version is a long carburetter compared to an amal concentric. if thats what youre fitting, you may end up having to modify your sidecovers again, although flat air filters will fit between the bellmouth and the old airbox brackets.
