Nice brace! It adds detail and looks good. This is really a good way to strengthen the front end. I believe it’s a similar concept to a strut brace on a car. They really do work.
Fork Leg Spacing
- Thread starter 243jimb
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That doesn’t seem like an outrageous price to me . I think they make top quality stuff , the decat I got was excellent , reasonably priced and I think got across the pond to me in a couple of days .
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I’ve also been pleased with shipping times.
Problem solved!
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSit8FAd_m0
I was in Edmonton a couple of weeks ago and visited Argyll when I was there. I was tempted by the T120 Chrome that they had but realised that it's about $2,000 more than a standard model which means that you are paying that just for the tank! Everything else is the same. A new 2024 is the same price as a discounted Chrome.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSit8FAd_m0
I was in Edmonton a couple of weeks ago and visited Argyll when I was there. I was tempted by the T120 Chrome that they had but realised that it's about $2,000 more than a standard model which means that you are paying that just for the tank! Everything else is the same. A new 2024 is the same price as a discounted Chrome.
So what was the problem and solution? Trade in the old one? LoL. I watched the video, seemed pretty simple, did you miss something?
The brace fits over the mudguard. The issue with the T-120 is the same as my old XS, the frame is too lite for the torque the motor puts out with the load my lard butt puts on it. It therefore tends to wander with road camber or cause head wobble over rough roads. Putting the fork brace on locks the forks in unison so the single damper is more effective. I also put in progressive springs and added preload adjusters to the cap. I left the stock fork oil alone since it was working well enough. Increasing the preload helped with handling over all sorts of road conditions. I wouldn't say it tracks as well as my Thruxton R or Speed Triple but it's not far off either.
Thanks for the info. I will investigate this. I don't mind spending the money if it makes a tangible difference, I'm not one for bolting on unnecessary frilly bits though.
Trust me, it's worth getting it right. Makes the handling much better. I have 5 Triumphs and the only two that had a suspension worthy of the motors were my Thruxton and Speed Triple. Those came with fully adjustable suspensions front and rear (altho the Thruxton rear Ohlins are kinda cheesey with only three preload settings). I changed the T-120 rear shocks out for fully adjustables and then changed the front end as described and now the bike handles like it should have from the factory. One more note your head shake (wobble) could be due to issues with the rear suspension and not the forks alone. Something to consider. If you were in the neighborhood I'd let you take my T-120 for a spin, you could see for yourself.
What would you say made the greatest difference to the handling of your bikes, the front or rear suspension? The reason that I ask is that i replaced the front progressive springs with cartridges and found very little improvement and not worth the money. I removed them. I have replaced the rear shocks with Ikons and once again, saw no real improvement.
How did you set up the suspension once installed?
Following the instructions to the letter. There was a slight improvement but not commensurate with the cost.
I'm guessing you set it once and then never fiddled it again (and I can be way off here). The initial setup is just that, a starting point. To get it right you may need to try different combinations of settings to get the most out of any suspension. On my Bobber I increased the preload 3 times after break-in to minimize the sag and then had to back off the rebound damping 4 clicks to allow a faster recovery to full extension. This limited the shock from bottoming out over a rough surface so now it's a very rare occaision (the stock shock bottomed out early and often). With my T-120 I increased the preload twice until the sag was about 20mm and I increased the rebound damping 2 clicks and now it rides how I like it. There's a lot more shock travel on the T-120 vice the Bobber so it's setup is different than my Bobber. With my Thruxton R I have only three available preload settings. Most people don't add preload to their Thruxton's but I had to to accomodate my lard butt in the seat, so it's on the second setting. I also backed off the compression damping 2 clicks and increased the rebound damping 2 clicks. I may adjust that a bit further but right now it's running pretty sweet. I increased the preload on my S3 this last weekend and backed off the rebound damping 2 clicks. It's better but more changes are coming. What I'm getting to is it's adjustable for a reason, keep dialing it in till you have the best performance achievable. It's not a George Foreman Grill where you set it and forget it.
When it didn't change what I was expecting it to, I removed the whole thing and returned it. It seems that it is a worthwhile modification but I need to fix the underlying problem.
Yes, this guy responded to my post on another site and I was able to see that it was the same on his bike.
So was it just a procedure issue and installation as per video fixed the issue? Or nothing was actually wrong?
Nothing was wrong. I was looking for a reason for the wobble on the front end and began to suspect that the forks were somehow misaligned. I need to see another set of forks from the same era.
Recommend you test your wobble issue by increasing or decreasing the rear shock preload. If the rear suspension affects where the wobble starts you have a clue to the problem.
Good advice. I have altered the pre-load, replaced the rear shocks, the steering head bearings (twice), fork bushings and seals, tyres (three times) and played with the pressures, lower yoke, wheel bearings front and rear, fork oil weight, swingarm bushings and checked wheel alignment until I'm blue in the face!
Is the frame straight?
