Sally bought our FIRST new motorcycle in 40+ years of marriage and a full year before that riding together. She has always wanted a BRAND NEW motorcycle, so when Triumph announced "Under $5,000", she went for it!
IMMEDIATELY, she found the bike to be TOO TALL! (I did, too. VERY silly for a "starter" bike) I am 5'10" with 32 inseam, so I am not "short", but I sat TIP-TOED on it. Sally was bouncing from one toe to the other.
Enter "Lust Racing" Triumph Speed 400 lowering kit
THIS IS NOT THE ULTIMATE SOLUTION! It only makes the spring easier to compress, resulting in a bit lower seat height WHEN SITTING ON THE BIKE. The EXTENDED (at rest) position is still TALL!
So, here's the procedure -
Step 1: Jack the bike up on a bike stand, or using opposite Jack stands, one under the left footpeg and one under the tailpipe near the right footpeg (this can be done solo, without any kind of jack, if you are careful; also useful for changing oil).
Step 2: Un-bolt the bottom of the shock.
Step 3. Remove seat with key. Remove trim bits ahead of the sidecovers, remove sidecovers (SCREWY ENGINEERING - takes 2 different Allen wrenches for 2 different screws!)
Step 4. Remove fuel tank by removing the rear bolt, tipping the REAR of the tank up, and disconnecting the electrical connection and dry-break fuel line at the rear of the tank. Remove tank.
Step 5: Push the breather tube and wiring away from the top shock mount nut, slip in your spanner key, and remove that fixing bolt with an allen key from the left side.
I have just saved you TWO steps that I thought I would need to do, remove the mudflap to allow clearance, and remove entire rear wheel - NO NEED TO DO THAT!
The next bit is tricky, removing the OEM spring retainer, and installing the Lusk retainer. LOOK AT THE PHOTOS BEFORE PROCEEDING, and it will all make much more sense. The orientation of the strap ratchet handles is important, to PUSH on them when tightening, and provide a measure of safety when compressing the spring. The "loose" head will be pointed DOWN, away from you.
Step A: Procure a 4" long 10mm or 3/8 hardened bolt with (2) fender washers and a nut. Procure (2) ratchet type tie-down straps.
Step B: Tie the ratchet ends' bits of strapping in single knots (each) to shorten those ends. Place one fender washer on the bolt, and thread the bolt thru the captive circle of a ratchet end hook, next thru the closed circle of one of the hooks with a long strap, then thru the bottom eye of the shock. Thread the closed circle of the hook on the other long strap thru the bolt, then thru the other ratchet end hook's closed circle thru, then the other fender washer, then the nut, tightened to the point that the most stress will be near the washers straight up to the coils at the top.
Step C: Remove the loose straps from the ratchets and thread the bitter ends (opposite the hook ends) underneath the BASE coils at the narrowest gap possible, from outside the spring to inside the coil near the damper shaft, one opposite the other, more or less in line with the bolt thru the base end of the shock. Pass the bitter ends as high up the coils as possible, then out and back down toward the base to the next lowest coil.
Step D: Thread the bitter ends back up inside the coils to the coil below the highest one you have already looped thru, then back out and back down to the ratchets; you may need a piece of wire or a spring hook to fish the "tails" out from between the coils. This should produce a 2- part compression of 5 coils, then 3 coils on EACH STRAP.
Step D: Thread the bitter ends into the ratchets and pull ALL slack out of the bitter ends, eliminating any twists in the straps. Snug the ratchets down equally until just tight.
Never mind that I used a screwdriver instead of a bolt, Your project should resemble THIS:
Step E: KEEP THE SHOCk UPRIGHT, AND POINTED SLIGHTLY AWAY FROM YOUR BODY. Base of shock resting on the ground, on A PIECE OF CARDBOARD OR A RUBBER FLOOR MAT. Begin with maximum ratchet tightening on one side, then the other, keeping both sides equal. Once they get tight, you will only be able to do 2 or 3 clicks per ratchet, then only one or two clicks, then one at a time, until the spring retainer cup is totally free to slip out.
The OEM cup is now free, spring compressed almost 1"...
Step F: Slip the new, deeper cup in place and CAREFULLY release tension on BOTH ratchets at the same time. If the cup sets in place lopsided, you can tighten back down on the straps to allow it to loosen off, then pop it into position with a rubber mallet.
Voila!
Again, this is not the perfect solution. This is STILL a 12" eye-to-eye shock, when at rest.
An 11" (one inch lower) or even 10" (2" lower) shock is a MUCH better (but more expensive) solution.
REMEMBER THIS: If you DO go with a shorter shock, IF REMOTE RESERVOIR, it must be the LOWER, HORIZONTAL style, as the original, or it WIL NOT FIT in the confined spaces.
Sally can now sit ALMOST flat-footed with moderate heels. I'm probably going to buy a 10" shock later.
IMMEDIATELY, she found the bike to be TOO TALL! (I did, too. VERY silly for a "starter" bike) I am 5'10" with 32 inseam, so I am not "short", but I sat TIP-TOED on it. Sally was bouncing from one toe to the other.
Enter "Lust Racing" Triumph Speed 400 lowering kit
THIS IS NOT THE ULTIMATE SOLUTION! It only makes the spring easier to compress, resulting in a bit lower seat height WHEN SITTING ON THE BIKE. The EXTENDED (at rest) position is still TALL!
So, here's the procedure -
Step 1: Jack the bike up on a bike stand, or using opposite Jack stands, one under the left footpeg and one under the tailpipe near the right footpeg (this can be done solo, without any kind of jack, if you are careful; also useful for changing oil).
Step 2: Un-bolt the bottom of the shock.
Step 3. Remove seat with key. Remove trim bits ahead of the sidecovers, remove sidecovers (SCREWY ENGINEERING - takes 2 different Allen wrenches for 2 different screws!)
Step 4. Remove fuel tank by removing the rear bolt, tipping the REAR of the tank up, and disconnecting the electrical connection and dry-break fuel line at the rear of the tank. Remove tank.
Step 5: Push the breather tube and wiring away from the top shock mount nut, slip in your spanner key, and remove that fixing bolt with an allen key from the left side.
I have just saved you TWO steps that I thought I would need to do, remove the mudflap to allow clearance, and remove entire rear wheel - NO NEED TO DO THAT!
The next bit is tricky, removing the OEM spring retainer, and installing the Lusk retainer. LOOK AT THE PHOTOS BEFORE PROCEEDING, and it will all make much more sense. The orientation of the strap ratchet handles is important, to PUSH on them when tightening, and provide a measure of safety when compressing the spring. The "loose" head will be pointed DOWN, away from you.
Step A: Procure a 4" long 10mm or 3/8 hardened bolt with (2) fender washers and a nut. Procure (2) ratchet type tie-down straps.
Step B: Tie the ratchet ends' bits of strapping in single knots (each) to shorten those ends. Place one fender washer on the bolt, and thread the bolt thru the captive circle of a ratchet end hook, next thru the closed circle of one of the hooks with a long strap, then thru the bottom eye of the shock. Thread the closed circle of the hook on the other long strap thru the bolt, then thru the other ratchet end hook's closed circle thru, then the other fender washer, then the nut, tightened to the point that the most stress will be near the washers straight up to the coils at the top.
Step C: Remove the loose straps from the ratchets and thread the bitter ends (opposite the hook ends) underneath the BASE coils at the narrowest gap possible, from outside the spring to inside the coil near the damper shaft, one opposite the other, more or less in line with the bolt thru the base end of the shock. Pass the bitter ends as high up the coils as possible, then out and back down toward the base to the next lowest coil.
Step D: Thread the bitter ends back up inside the coils to the coil below the highest one you have already looped thru, then back out and back down to the ratchets; you may need a piece of wire or a spring hook to fish the "tails" out from between the coils. This should produce a 2- part compression of 5 coils, then 3 coils on EACH STRAP.
Step D: Thread the bitter ends into the ratchets and pull ALL slack out of the bitter ends, eliminating any twists in the straps. Snug the ratchets down equally until just tight.
Never mind that I used a screwdriver instead of a bolt, Your project should resemble THIS:
Step E: KEEP THE SHOCk UPRIGHT, AND POINTED SLIGHTLY AWAY FROM YOUR BODY. Base of shock resting on the ground, on A PIECE OF CARDBOARD OR A RUBBER FLOOR MAT. Begin with maximum ratchet tightening on one side, then the other, keeping both sides equal. Once they get tight, you will only be able to do 2 or 3 clicks per ratchet, then only one or two clicks, then one at a time, until the spring retainer cup is totally free to slip out.
The OEM cup is now free, spring compressed almost 1"...
Step F: Slip the new, deeper cup in place and CAREFULLY release tension on BOTH ratchets at the same time. If the cup sets in place lopsided, you can tighten back down on the straps to allow it to loosen off, then pop it into position with a rubber mallet.
Voila!
Again, this is not the perfect solution. This is STILL a 12" eye-to-eye shock, when at rest.
An 11" (one inch lower) or even 10" (2" lower) shock is a MUCH better (but more expensive) solution.
REMEMBER THIS: If you DO go with a shorter shock, IF REMOTE RESERVOIR, it must be the LOWER, HORIZONTAL style, as the original, or it WIL NOT FIT in the confined spaces.
Sally can now sit ALMOST flat-footed with moderate heels. I'm probably going to buy a 10" shock later.
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