No, I know how the Colourtune works, how do you fit the AFR clocks?
Dunstall Replicas - 1971 OIF T120R
- Thread starter NM Bonny
- Start date
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Oh, sorry. It's straightforward.
Here's a photo of the heated sensor installed in the exhaust pipe of the '67 MG Midget 'test mule' running my DIY blow-through, intercooled A-Series conversion. I'm 99% sure that the gauge comes with a stainless bung you can weld into a system for a permanent installation, as with the Midget, or a removable pipe for tuning, as I made for this bike.
The gauge (I guess you Brits like 'clocks') would mount to either an aftermarket gauge pod or (in my case) just a bent piece of home improvement store 1/8" aluminum for tuning purposes, like this one I made up to tune the '51 Pan-Shovel, and which could be used temporarily on the Bonny. I just drilled two holes to receive the flat gauge's studs after this photo was taken.
The loom has a bunch of wires you don't use unless hooking up to a computer for data logging. For me it was just power, ground, and readout from the sensor to the gauge.
I have to say that on the 'paint shaker,' as I call the Pan-Shovel, I had to zip tie the thing to the handlebar because it vibrated so badly at speed... could've made up a shorter and less vulnerable temporary mount...
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Bloodknot
Well-Known Member
Just for clarification.
The originals can not be disassembled for repacking. I think you will find that all OE silencers of this era worked on the baffle rather than absorption principle.
The perforated disc, as a restriction to the gasflow, would have forced additional gas into the wadding than would otherwise have done so. I would be most surprised if mine have any packing left having seen what the exhaust pulses our large bore twins do to the stuff.
When I repacked the carbon sleeved cans on my Ducati I used the wadding that permanently expands on its first exposure to heat.
I maybe misreading the second excerpt but the originals do not have a seam between the the main and the reverse cones. it’s as if the reverse cone was formed from the end of the main cone.
Bloodknot
Well-Known Member
The ColourTune unit replaces the spark plug when used.
Thanks for this clarification.
Okay, the branded Dunstall 'red cap' choice seems for all these reasons to be the one for me: looks, removable baffle, not outrageous price...
For sure, I'll use the Acousta-fil or the like if whatever's in there is skimpy upon inspection.
After the initial quick reply from Carolyne at the above website, I've gotten crickets on how to special order notwithstanding the website indicating they're currently out of stock. But that's no biggie, as I've got lots of work to do to get this bike roadworthy per my other thread.
So, attach no significance to interim silence; I'll post whenever she's running and I've received the mufflers--whose 'red caps' will receive a coat of flat black paint, almost for sure.
I forgot to attach a photo of the AFR gauges' heated sensor bung welded to a little piece of pipe that goes between the header and muffler temporarily for tuning. The shorty pipe has a step-down in size, and I got it at the auto parts store for $5 or something--but also available on Scamazon, et al.
A guy at Route 66 Muffler did this, as I was barely above to tack it to the pipe before I started burning through, even on the lowest setting on my MIG welder. He charged me $10. I made the hole with my largest hi-speed bit, then enlarged it with one of those cheapo 'step drill' bits available all over the web.
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speedrattle
Well-Known Member
nm, have you experimented with simple open pipes?
i run my 72 with stock open pipes, open reverse cone megaphones on stock pipes, and an old alphabet 2-into-1 with no glass in the core, depending on my mood. to my ears the noise with the open pipes is not annoying. i live in the country with no neighbors, so thats not an issue either.
open pipes make tuning simpler, but will likely give you some mid-range reversion, which may or may not matter. you would have to experiment to find the best length.
or you could just trust tradition and fit standard open TT pipes.
i run my 72 with stock open pipes, open reverse cone megaphones on stock pipes, and an old alphabet 2-into-1 with no glass in the core, depending on my mood. to my ears the noise with the open pipes is not annoying. i live in the country with no neighbors, so thats not an issue either.
open pipes make tuning simpler, but will likely give you some mid-range reversion, which may or may not matter. you would have to experiment to find the best length.
or you could just trust tradition and fit standard open TT pipes.
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speedrattle
Well-Known Member
^^^these are ordinsry unpainted 14 + 3 reverse cone megaphones on my 72. not too loud. you jet two sizes rich on tbe mains.
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
sorry. the forum doesnt do imagrs from imgur anymore
Reply/Edit message box, there is a row of icons at the top; if you hover the cursor over the one to the right of the two chain links, "Insert Image (Ctrl+P)" should be displayed; if you click on the icon, a box is displayed for 'dropping' the image from your computer; otoh, if you click on the box (or press the Ctrl key and tap "P")), the standard Open (file) dialog box is displayed.
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
View: https://imgur.com/DoDLVBd
thank you., rudie. thats a path ive never uised before, and it seems to work. continuing to test it
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speedrattle
Well-Known Member
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
^^^ignore that, please.. just a test
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
okay, sorry for the digression. this method does seem to work for what i need. anyway, ^^^these are standard 1.5-inch pipes with reverse cone megas on them. they are a bit loud, but this machine with old rings (150 psi on the kickstart lever) will still do 117 with them with minor attention to jetting.
click on the image to see it full width, if it doesnt display completely
Thanks for posting the image, and for the idea.
I think I'm wanting actual mufflers of some sort, as the '51 FL I've been riding since finishing the refurbishment has essentially none and it's a bit loud for my taste. I also live in the sticks but prefer some silencing effect. Precisely how much is the question!
That said, may I ask how you like the rear-sets, what brand they are, and whether you could post an image of the brake side, too?
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
those are from the defunct clubman racing accessories, who imported them from a british supplier, iirc. they set the pegs high and to the rear, so ground clearance is improved. they work well with clip ons, if you can fold, or with stock bars if you dont.
they come with a mechanism for actuating the awful triumph brake light switch, which works about as well as the switch does. drill out one of the 5/16-inch holes in the mounts for the footpeg, and thats all the modification you need, although i ditched the stock rods and clevises and threaded my own for rose joints.
they need attention to set up, and have to be lubed well, else they tend to bind. i use universal rear sets on another machine, but i dont use a kickstart on that one.
i think you can reverse the shift lever to clear the kickstart, and the just use the opposite shift pattern with a pair of universal rear sets. that was the practice for many years, but it depends on where you put the footpeg.
they come with a mechanism for actuating the awful triumph brake light switch, which works about as well as the switch does. drill out one of the 5/16-inch holes in the mounts for the footpeg, and thats all the modification you need, although i ditched the stock rods and clevises and threaded my own for rose joints.
they need attention to set up, and have to be lubed well, else they tend to bind. i use universal rear sets on another machine, but i dont use a kickstart on that one.
i think you can reverse the shift lever to clear the kickstart, and the just use the opposite shift pattern with a pair of universal rear sets. that was the practice for many years, but it depends on where you put the footpeg.
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Thanks... well, that figures. Okay, off-topic but I was curious. Thank you for the info.
In the early 1980's, they were made by "Marchant & Durward" (who was actually one person whose surname was neither Marchant nor Durward ...
). When that one person retired, the rearsets were taken up by Unity Equipe, who also closed several years ago. 
In the early 1980's, they were made by "Marchant & Durward" (who was actually one person whose surname was neither Marchant nor Durward ...
Okay, thank you. Should I decide on the flat bar and rear sets (clip-ons would likely be too low for my taste), I'll get out the welder and plasma cutter, and roll my own based on the clear images Speedrattle posted. I found a decent plating service a few months back for another project that would plate them for a reasonable cost...
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
i use tarozzis on the other machine. i have a phot somewhere maybe.
dime city cycles in america usually has a selection of simple ones. then theres barleycorn in the uk
dime city cycles in america usually has a selection of simple ones. then theres barleycorn in the uk
