Battery/bike Dying

[jedbeadle]

I bought a 2007 Bonneville with 10k miles on it this summer. First I had to fix the carb now I am dealing with the battery dying. I have left the lights on a time or two plus killed the bike by putting it in gear without pulling up the kickstand.

My typical commute is a few miles to work and I do that four times a day typically. It has been getting cold. But all of a sudden the bike is dying. Even idling on my way to work at an intersection. I've had to bump start it multiple times. I bought a tender for it and that helps.

But I just fully charged it and a day later after taking it off it was dead. I charged it again and took it to the parts store with a full charge and they put it on a load tester. They said the battery is good. A doctor I work for recommended voltage test on it.

Could the battery be bad even after passing the load test? Could it be my short commute killing the battery?

Or is it something else that is wrong? The starter? Alternator?

Any clue?

 

[sikatri]

Check the regulator, my 2005 I had to replace the regulator and ignition coil to clear up a similar condition. I’d start there. Tell us what you find. Both of those should be easy to replace if you do it yourself. Might Google how to test them and see how your symptoms match up.

 

[Qship]

Short ride isn't doing it any good. Killing the battery doesn't help but if it's good strong battery, will recover with a proper charge. Today's bikes need a good battery to run the electronics. Granted, yours is pretty simple electrics, but needs it to give best spark. Bikes aren't like cars in that they don't charge well at low RPMs. Low voltages mess up the sensors and cause poor running.
Stalling it because of the kick stand switch won't hurt it. Just lets you know that safety feature is working as intended.
I would suspect the battery is weak. How old is it? The tender is a great idea, but they aren't meant to charge a low battery, only maintain a healthy one.
Most bike batteries don't last much more than 3-4 years with proper upkeep. If yours is older, you're living on borrowed time.
As Sikatri suggested, have the regulator/rectifier checked and if that's good replace battery.

 

[jedbeadle]

Well, guys. I got home spent time trying to figure out which digital multimeter to buy in my city then figured I might just go try to fire her up and sure thing she’s running. I wonder if a cable was loose? I almost wonder if it’s just an older battery and maybe loose wiring causing my symptoms. Maybe if I run it on the tender every so often and try to stick to longer rides if that doesn’t clear it up. I hate to spend money if I don’t have to….

 

[sikatri]

Keep an eye on it and ride, but if it starts to act up fix it before it takes another electronic component with it. I’d still get a meter.

 

[Fordfixer]

Buy a cheap voltmeter. Remove seat and hook up meter(Set it on 20 volt scale first) to battery posts. Start bike and rev engine to about 4000 rpm. Voltage should increase to about 14.5 volts. If it does, good chance your batteries are whipped. These bikes are fussy about battery voltage. Batteries that would start my Honda's no problem just cause my Bonnie to click . Recommend Yuasa

YT12B-BS​

 

[Red Dog]

I disagree with Fordfizer, across the the battery terminals, with out the bike running at all, you should be seeing no less that 12.5 and better 14.5 volts.

 

[Fordfixer]

I disagree with Fordfizer, across the the battery terminals, with out the bike running at all, you should be seeing no less that 12.5 and better 14.5 volts.

Not running 12.2 to 13.2 volts would be considered normal. Normal battery voltage is 2.1 /2.2 volt per cell when charged. Running 13.7and up to 14.5 volts would be in a normal range. Over 14.5 would be considered overcharging. 34 years as a Ford dealership technician specializing in electrical,drive ability and AC. Top Ford technician in Canada in 1991. Honda motorcycle dealer part time tech. Found my 2013 Bonnie would only chatter the starter relay if battery voltage 12 volts or less