'73 DAYTONA T100R

[Rudie]

A FELLOW TRIUMPH OWNER TOLD ME THAT I SHOULD ALWAYS START MY BIKE EVERY WEEK AND LET IT IDLE FOR A FEW MINUTES TOOK KEEP THE OIL CIRCULATING.

Do not take any more 'advice' from this person, he is plotting you should wreck your bike's engine and then he can buy your bike cheap.

Alternatively, wait until he wrecks his Triumph's engine and then buy his bike cheap ...

Joking aside, this is absolutely the worst way to treat any internal combustion engine:-

. Burning any fossil fuel releases large quantities of water; ideally, you never see it because it remains above boiling point until it is either exhausted or vented.

. Cold engine, this water vapour condenses in the exhaust and crankcase; e.g. British bike primary chaincases are particularly prone to condensation because they are one of the last parts of an engine to become hot enough to boil off the water that condensed there when the engine was cold but running.

Ime, a bike's oil tank, primary chaincase and gearbox should be checked regularly, these are the compartments most prone to condensation (gearbox of atmospheric water vapour). If you ever see what looks like mayonnaise inside any of them, that is the oil mixed with condensed water, the bike is saying you have not used it enough.

"Mayonnaise" in primary or gearbox, I replace the oil because it is contaminated with water. Oil tank normally first shows "mayonnaise" around the filler neck and vent; if only there, I do not replace the oil but do plan to give the bike a good long run in the very near future.

Absolutely the best way to treat any internal combustion engine is to use it for long enough all parts - including the oils - reach normal working temperatures; remember, most motorcycle makers design(ed) their products to be used every day.

Any i.c. engine not used every day, the next best thing is simply to leave it alone (within reason). Here in the UK, motorcycling is generally at least unpleasant during the winter, sometimes impossible; about the only thing I do when I do not use a bike for more than about a month is turn the engine over a few times with the kickstart, leaving it with a different cylinder on compression so different valves are closed and open.

WILL LETTING THE DAYTONA SIT FOR 2 TO 3 WEEKS CAUSE ISSUES WITH THE OIL PUMP?

No.

THANKS FOR ALL THAT HELPFUL INFO
I WILL LOOK INTO GETTING AN OIL GAUGE.

 

[SIR LOIN]

THANKS AGAIN RUDIE.

MY BATTERY IS 4 YEARS OLD AND I WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE IT. IS THERE A BRAND OR AMP SPECIFIC BATTERY THAT I SHOULD LOOK FOR?

 

[Cosmic Sled]

THANKS AGAIN RUDIE.

MY BATTERY IS 4 YEARS OLD AND I WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE IT. IS THERE A BRAND OR AMP SPECIFIC BATTERY THAT I SHOULD LOOK FOR?

The battery I use on my T100S is YB9-FP JMT Lithium ion battery. These JMT batteries seem fantastic, just fit and forget, I have a more powerful one on my Honda (So works fine for positive and negative earth). They hold their charge even when the bike is off the road for months. They are small and light. You will need a charger for lithium, I bought a Topdon T1200, cheap and works fine (the battery holds its charge so battery charger rarely needed).
This works great for me so may be of interest.

 

[Rudie]

MY BATTERY IS 4 YEARS OLD AND I WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE IT.

Does it have a fault? If not, why do you want to change it?

If you think it might have a fault, do you want some tests to check it?

If it does not have a fault, golden rule of old vehicles:-

If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It​

IS THERE A BRAND OR AMP SPECIFIC BATTERY THAT I SHOULD LOOK FOR?

Difficult to give a short answer, because it depends how and where you ride your bike and how much you want to spend, now and in the future.

The battery cannot be considered on its own. When riding, the alternator should keep the battery charged; however:-

. the alternator does not start to recharge the battery until it (the alternator) is generating enough to supply all other demands - at least ignition, plus you must ride with lights on even in daylight;

. if your bike's alternator rotor is original, it is around fifty years old, magnetic strength deteriorates with age, rotor magnetic strength has a direct bearing on the stator's generating capability;

. even if your bike's alternator rotor still has its original magnetic strength, the original stator was not very powerful when it was new.

The original Lucas company rated your bike's alternator for 10.5 Amps at 5,000 rpm and the workshop manual alternator test procedure indicates 9A at 3,000 rpm. However, even without considering rectification losses, the ignition demands a little under 3.5A, the standard headlamp bulb low beam demands similar, the standard taillight, speedo and tacho bulbs demand about another Amp. Lighting demand can be reduced by replacing incandescent bulbs with LED but, if you want to be able to ride at night, or even at dawn/dusk, a useful LED headlamp becomes another can of worms.

So, standard alternator, unless you can ride the bike with the engine well above 3,000 rpm for much of the time, the battery is not receiving much charge; if you have to ride for any length of time at much lower rpm (e.g. in the city), because ignition and lights demand changes very little, the lower the rpm, the more demand the battery is supplying.

Around five years after your T100 was built, the original Lucas company started making more powerful stators but still with the same physical dimensions as your bike's; Wassell still makes replicas; I fit the 'high output' (14.5A @ 5,000 rpm) version of the 3-phase stator, that also generates more at lower rpm (approximately 13A at 3,000 rpm).

Not long after Lucas launched the 3-phase alternators, I fitted my first high output version to my T160. While I was not considering the future when I fitted that first one (I wanted more reliable electric starting in cities and better lights outside them), considering I have never had better than ten years' electric starting from any battery, that alternator has turned out a much better investment than any expensive battery (@Cosmic Shed's lithium battery appears to cost around £100 in the UK, without the special charger ).

The largest and most powerful lead acid type (liquid acid, AGM or gel) battery intended for motorcycles that will fit your T100's carrier is a MB9U Motobatt 12V AGM Battery or equivalent. However, they are still $80 batteries even in the US, that I know will electric start a T160 many times without recharging ...

Any modern battery intended for a motorcycle has electric starting capability (the "ccA" - cold cranking Amps - figure); however, your T100 (any kickstart only bike) cannot make any use of it, you are paying extra for nothing.

When (not if) a battery fails. a failed expensive battery is the same as a failed cheap battery.

High output 3-phase stator on a T100 (any kickstart only British bike from the mid 1960's onwards with 12V electrics), I fit a Yuasa NP7 battery; Google suggests they can be had for about $17 in the US?

NP7 is actually a fire and burglar alarm backup battery (so not built for electric starting ), they are fitted so the system continues to work even if the mains power is cut. In the UK, the batteries are replaced every three or four years during routine annual alarm servicing; contact with a servicing company, replaced batteries can be had for almost nothing because scrapping costs the companies due to environmental regulations; otoh, after I have had several more years use out of any of these batteries, as an individual, I can dispose of it free at my local government authority dump.

If your battery does not have a fault now but you must spend a lot of money, ime a new alternator rotor and high output 3-phase stator will be a far better investment than any expensive battery, especially if the battery must also have a special charger.

 

[SIR LOIN]

The battery I use on my T100S is YB9-FP JMT Lithium ion battery. These JMT batteries seem fantastic, just fit and forget, I have a more powerful one on my Honda (So works fine for positive and negative earth). They hold their charge even when the bike is off the road for months. They are small and light. You will need a charger for lithium, I bought a Topdon T1200, cheap and works fine (the battery holds its charge so battery charger rarely needed).
This works great for me so may be of interest.

THANKS COSMIC SHED. I WILL LOOK INTO THE LITHIUM ROUTE.

 

[SIR LOIN]

Does it have a fault? If not, why do you want to change it?

If you think it might have a fault, do you want some tests to check it?

If it does not have a fault, golden rule of old vehicles:-

If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It​

Difficult to give a short answer, because it depends how and where you ride your bike and how much you want to spend, now and in the future.

The battery cannot be considered on its own. When riding, the alternator should keep the battery charged; however:-

. the alternator does not start to recharge the battery until it (the alternator) is generating enough to supply all other demands - at least ignition, plus you must ride with lights on even in daylight;

. if your bike's alternator rotor is original, it is around fifty years old, magnetic strength deteriorates with age, rotor magnetic strength has a direct bearing on the stator's generating capability;

. even if your bike's alternator rotor still has its original magnetic strength, the original stator was not very powerful when it was new.

The original Lucas company rated your bike's alternator for 10.5 Amps at 5,000 rpm and the workshop manual alternator test procedure indicates 9A at 3,000 rpm. However, even without considering rectification losses, the ignition demands a little under 3.5A, the standard headlamp bulb low beam demands similar, the standard taillight, speedo and tacho bulbs demand about another Amp. Lighting demand can be reduced by replacing incandescent bulbs with LED but, if you want to be able to ride at night, or even at dawn/dusk, a useful LED headlamp becomes another can of worms.

So, standard alternator, unless you can ride the bike with the engine well above 3,000 rpm for much of the time, the battery is not receiving much charge; if you have to ride for any length of time at much lower rpm (e.g. in the city), because ignition and lights demand changes very little, the lower the rpm, the more demand the battery is supplying.

Around five years after your T100 was built, the original Lucas company started making more powerful stators but still with the same physical dimensions as your bike's; Wassell still makes replicas; I fit the 'high output' (14.5A @ 5,000 rpm) version of the 3-phase stator, that also generates more at lower rpm (approximately 13A at 3,000 rpm).

Not long after Lucas launched the 3-phase alternators, I fitted my first high output version to my T160. While I was not considering the future when I fitted that first one (I wanted more reliable electric starting in cities and better lights outside them), considering I have never had better than ten years' electric starting from any battery, that alternator has turned out a much better investment than any expensive battery (@Cosmic Shed's lithium battery appears to cost around £100 in the UK, without the special charger ).

The largest and most powerful lead acid type (liquid acid, AGM or gel) battery intended for motorcycles that will fit your T100's carrier is a MB9U Motobatt 12V AGM Battery or equivalent. However, they are still $80 batteries even in the US, that I know will electric start a T160 many times without recharging ...

Any modern battery intended for a motorcycle has electric starting capability (the "ccA" - cold cranking Amps - figure); however, your T100 (any kickstart only bike) cannot make any use of it, you are paying extra for nothing.

When (not if) a battery fails. a failed expensive battery is the same as a failed cheap battery.

High output 3-phase stator on a T100 (any kickstart only British bike from the mid 1960's onwards with 12V electrics), I fit a Yuasa NP7 battery; Google suggests they can be had for about $17 in the US?

NP7 is actually a fire and burglar alarm backup battery (so not built for electric starting ), they are fitted so the system continues to work even if the mains power is cut. In the UK, the batteries are replaced every three or four years during routine annual alarm servicing; contact with a servicing company, replaced batteries can be had for almost nothing because scrapping costs the companies due to environmental regulations; otoh, after I have had several more years use out of any of these batteries, as an individual, I can dispose of it free at my local government authority dump.

If your battery does not have a fault now but you must spend a lot of money, ime a new alternator rotor and high output 3-phase stator will be a far better investment than any expensive battery, especially if the battery must also have a special charger.

THE REASON I WANT TO CHANGE THE BATTERY IS THAT AFTER A 65 MILE RIDE ON WEDNESDAY, I TRIED TO START THE BIKE AT HOME TO MOVE IT INTO THE GA AND THE BIKE WOULDN'T START. I CHECKED THE BATTERY AND IT WAS SHOWING 10 VOLTS. I PUSHED THE BIKE INTO THE GA AND TRICKLE CHARGED IT OVERNIGHT AND IT WAS SHOWING 10.2 VOLTS SO I THINK THE BATTERY IS NO .

ALSO, ISN'T A NEW ALTERNATOR AND STATOR MUCH MORE THAN $80 TO $100 AND WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO PURCHASE THESE ITEMS?

THE RPMS WERE WELL OVER 3K THE ENTIRE RIDE SO THE BATTERY SHOULD HAVE BEEN CHARGING AND IT SHOULD HAVE CHARGED OVERNIGHT SO I'M ASSUMING A BATTERY CELL IS BAD.

 

[suzook12]

THE REASON I WANT TO CHANGE THE BATTERY IS THAT AFTER A 65 MILE RIDE ON WEDNESDAY, I TRIED TO START THE BIKE AT HOME TO MOVE IT INTO THE GA AND THE BIKE WOULDN'T START. I CHECKED THE BATTERY AND IT WAS SHOWING 10 VOLTS.

Thats a dead cell, no reliable comeback from that.
Motobatt are good, bosch, even lucas, Yuasa dont seem as good as they were. Choose ya price range and takes ya choice

 

[Rudie]

CHECKED THE BATTERY AND IT WAS SHOWING 10 VOLTS. I PUSHED THE BIKE INTO THE garage AND TRICKLE CHARGED IT OVERNIGHT AND IT WAS SHOWING 10.2 VOLTS SO I THINK THE BATTERY IS NO good.

Yes.

ISN'T A NEW ALTERNATOR AND STATOR MUCH MORE THAN $80 TO $100

Around five years after your T100 was built, the original Lucas company started making more powerful stators but still with the same physical dimensions as your bike's;
I fit the 'high output' (14.5A @ 5,000 rpm) version of the 3-phase stator, that also generates more at lower rpm (approximately 13A at 3,000 rpm).

Not long after Lucas launched the 3-phase alternators, I fitted my first high output version to my T160.

Your bike is a 73 so "Around five years after your T100 was built" = 1978.

"Not long after Lucas launched the 3-phase alternators, I fitted my first high output version to my T160" = the alternator has been on the bike over forty years.

Which battery will last forty years?

I have never had better than ten years' electric starting from any battery

... and those were expensive 'name' batteries.

The longest I had a cheap noname battery last on the kickstart only bikes was eight years.

The secondhand fire/burglar alarm batteries do not last that long but, considering they cost virtually nothing ... If you want to see how long a new YP7 will last, Google suggests it will cost you seventeen bucks (plus maybe some p&p?)?

WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO PURCHASE THESE ITEMS?

Whichever internet browser you use, enter "lucas 47244" into its Search (47244 is the part number of the high output 3-phase stator). Most returned links will be to vendors of "Wassell Lucas" stators but you should also see this one; afaik, TBS is the only source left in the world of these UK made stators as they have not been made for a couple of years and are not likely ever to be made again.

Wassell Lucas only sell one alternator rotor. You could order from the same vendor as the stator but remember stators are heavy so postage cost could be significant; might be cheaper overall to ride or drive to pick up from a vendor charging a little more for the items themselves?

I do not know how useful it will be to you but CBS are in Lancaster, Ca.

If you were to replace the existing alternator with a new 3-phase, you will also need to replace the existing separate rectifier and Zener diode with a combined regulator/rectifier - I use Regulator Rectifier & 5 Way Male Plug For Honda CB250 CBR400 CBR600 900RR 1100XX | eBay

I understand you might not be intending to keep the bike for another forty years, in which case the cost of replacing the alternator could look less attractive than an expensive battery. However, do much research on lithium batteries on old British bikes - there are many internet forum threads over many years by many people for whom a lithium battery was an expensive mistake.

 

[speedrattle]

i run lithium iron batteries on a 72 T120 (has lasted 8 years) and a 70 norton (5 years?), and have just bought another for a race bike i am converting to coil ignition. flawless performance so far-- they weigh nothing, cant leak, can be mounted in any position, and are so small you can put them anywhere. they hold a charge a very long time, and if you occasionally trickle it my norton is a one-kick bike after sitting for the many months.

nonetheless. rudie is correct:

some people have had them catch fire. i dont know what kind or the details. this is not pretty.

they are apparently sensitive to under and over charging, both off the bike and on.

i run lucas alternators and podtronics rectifiers/regulators. my batteries are shorais, and i use a shorai trickle charger occasionally. the zeners on old british bikes are said to be inadequate for a lithium battery.

read up on them, and see whether they might fit your application. in my own case, i wont buy any other kind of battery any more unless i am using a lucas zener/rectifier.

https://shoraipower.com/battery?type=175&make=382089&model=382446&year=382446
theyre quite expensive to buy, but like i said, ive run the same battery in my T120 for 8 years now, so thats not all that much given the longevity.

 

[SIR LOIN]

THAT WAS MY NEXT . I HAD HEARD LITHIUM WAS NO FOR OLD BIKES SO I STAYED AWAY FROM THEM ON BOTH MY '70S BIKE BUT I DO HAVE ONE IN MY 2015 TIGER 800.

ALSO, SHOULD I BE TRICKLE CHARGING MY DAYTONA BATTERY AS THIS BIKE SITS FROM 1 TO 3 WEEKS?

 

[Rudie]

TRICKLE CHARGING MY DAYTONA BATTERY AS THIS BIKE SITS FROM 1 TO 3 WEEKS?

If I do not use a particular battery (all lead acid type) for more than a month, I give it an overnight trickle charge with a charger I bought sometime in the 1980s. Lead acid batteries should not be charged at more than 1/10th of their Amp-hour rate (i.e. a 10 Ah battery should not be charged at more than 1A); my particular charger has a "CAR/MOTORCYCLE" switch; latter setting, the built-in Ammeter indicates some very low charge rate.

I have never bought a modern "battery tender" simply because a couple of people I know had bad experiences with them. One guy was given (magazine editor ) several tenders; left several bikes' batteries connected over the winter; tenders' indicator lights did all they should; next spring, all batteries knackered, unable to supply a load. Other guy left his bike connected to a tender between times he used it, battery lasted two years ...

 

[suzook12]

@Rudie
I've always been told something similar to the 10% rule as well, Could never figure that one out when the vehicles alternator can and does throw multiples of the capacity at it, my 12r can throw some 30-40 amps at it's 14ah battery. Maybe it should be 10% of CCA. Charging too fast causes heat which as we know, wrecks batteries........

I have not yet switched to Lithium batteries. I have never planned to keep a bike long enough to warrant what was once an exhorbitant cost. As the prices are getting ever closer, that may well change.

With any battery, quality is everything. When I used to drag race my GSX-R's, I ran a total loss electrical system. My Lucas battery lasted a whole 8 years, the Bosch I bought just after it, ended up on a road bike and sold with it, that was 7 years old. While in use they were deep cycled, running the starter motor, ignition and nitrous system which had somewthing akin to a 30A draw all by itself....... Then it would sit in a cold damp lock up for 6 months untouched......

I did find quite an interesing article on Lithium vs Lead acid Lithium Motorcycle Batteries: Myths VS Realities – Updated

Whether I would want to use one on such a low output old charging system I don't know.......
Steve

 

[suzook12]

THAT WAS MY NEXT . I HAD HEARD LITHIUM WAS NO FOR OLD BIKES SO I STAYED AWAY FROM THEM ON BOTH MY '70S BIKE BUT I DO HAVE ONE IN MY 2015 TIGER 800.

ALSO, SHOULD I BE TRICKLE CHARGING MY DAYTONA BATTERY AS THIS BIKE SITS FROM 1 TO 3 WEEKS?

I think, to the first part, it will depend entirely on your charging system, From what I've read, Lithium batteries need a good 14V to charge properly. If you constantly ride within a rev range that delivers that, then you will be ok. Older bikes on a zener may never see such giddy heights in voltage. Hooking an accurate volt meter in to thew current battery (nice easy to read one LED/LCD) then ride around and monitor what your system is doing. Lead acids are a lot more forgiving on this front. If in doubt, talk to the manufacturer.

As for the Daytona, if you do trickle charge it, don't leave it on for the entire 3 weeks, charge it, leave it. Better still, give the ol gal a spin round the block.

I used to own a motorcycle shop, and the number of batteries I used to sell every spring to owners bemoaning it as it had been on an optimate or similar all winter.....

 

[Rudie]

10% rule
Could never figure that one out when the vehicles alternator can and does throw multiples of the capacity at it, my 12r can throw some 30-40 amps at it's 14ah battery.

It does not.

The main difference between the old fixed charge chargers and most motorcycle electrical systems since the mid-1960's is the latter have some sort of automated regulation of the DC Volts and Amps, originally Zener diodes, more recently (e.g. your 12r) reg/rec.

You take a Britbike with a Zener for a run in the country on a sunny day (run in the country = high engine rpm, sunny day = no lights), once the battery is fully-charged, the alternator is just running the ignition; if the alternator is producing more than about 3.5A, the Zener is turning that "more" into heat.

Similar on the 12r, except the reg/rec is measuring the demand of the DC components in use (ignition and efi?), converting any excess AC into heat, only rectifying enough AC to DC to satisfy the DC demand. If the battery needs charging, that is measured by the reg/rec, AC rectified to DC is increased accordingly; as the battery charges up, its internal resistance increases, reducing the charge it accepts, reg/rec reduces the AC rectified to DC.

Before Zener diodes, the rider turning the lights on and off also respectively connected/disconnected four of the alternator stator's six coils to/from the bike's DC electrics. Lights off, the lighting switch made a 'short circuit' through the four stator coils, dissipating their generation as heat (much as any reg/rec does now) and setting up an eddy current in the rotor that depressed the output of the two stator coils still connected to the bike's DC electrics.

The main problem with pre-Zener charge control is it was/is not automatic - e.g. current fixation with riding with lights on in daylight, if something as simple as the headlamp bulb blows, because the lighting switch is on "Headlamp", all six stator coils are connected to the DC, the alternator is putting in too many Amps, boils/blows the battery. Similar if an owner wants to use LED, because LED use fewer Amps than incandescent bulbs.

Old fixed charge charger, whatever it was rated for (car charger could be several Amps), charge most bike batteries at that rate, the heat generated just caused the acid to gas and worst case, the plates to warp.

With any battery, quality is everything.

Mmmm ...

Before knowing about fire/burglar alarm backup batteries, when I put a project on the road, I used to fit it with a cheap battery, on the basis that, if I had to take the bike back off the road, I would rather it was a cheap battery sulphating to uselessness than an expensive one.

The longest I had a cheap noname battery last on the kickstart only bikes was eight years.

 

[Rudie]

From what I've read, Lithium batteries need a good 14V to charge properly.
Older bikes on a zener may never see such giddy heights in voltage.

The charging system on @SIR LOIN's bike should do; depending how it is measured, the Zener diode can allow the DC system Volts to rise to a little over 15V.

Ime, reasons why DC Volts might not reach 14V are: heavy Amps demand (e.g. headlamp more powerful than standard), alternator rotor magnetism badly deteriorated.

Hooking an accurate volt meter in to thew current battery
ride around and monitor what your system is doing.

+1.

TRICKLE CHARGING MY DAYTONA BATTERY AS THIS BIKE SITS FROM 1 TO 3 WEEKS?

if you do trickle charge it, don't leave it on for the entire 3 weeks,

If I do not use a particular battery (all lead acid type) for more than a month, I give it an overnight trickle charge

New battery, Voltmeter connected across it, well calibrated meter should indicate 12.6V. If the bike has not been used for the full three weeks and, when you turn on the ignition, the Voltmeter displays at least 12.5V, I would not worry about any trickle charging, just ride the bike.

However, if you have to charge the battery, charge it only off the bike is posting the obvious?

 

[SIR LOIN]

However, if you have to charge the battery, charge it only off the bike is posting the obvious?

WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE OF CHARGING THE BATTERY ON OR OFF THE BIKE?

ALSO, ON MY '75 HONDA CT90 I HAVE A 6V INTERSTATE BATTERY THAT USES THE SAME F2 TERMINALS AS THE 12V FIRE/BURGLAR ALARM BATTERIES YOU RECOMMEND FOR THE DAYTONA. AFTER BUMPY RIDES OFF ROAD, THE BATTERY CONNECTORS HAVE SLIPPED OFF. HOW WOULD I AVOID THIS ISSUE ON MY DAYTONA SINCE IT VIBRATES MUCH MORE THAN MY HONDA?

 

[SIR LOIN]

I did find quite an interesing article on Lithium vs Lead acid Lithium Motorcycle Batteries: Myths VS Realities – Updated

THATS A GREAT ARTICLE SUZOOK12. THANKS FOR THE INFO.

 

[Rudie]

WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE OF CHARGING THE BATTERY ON OR OFF THE BIKE?

Off the bike:-

. There is no chance of the seat closing on the charger negative terminal, the seat pan causing a short circuit that will start to melt the insulation on the Red 'ground' wires within a few seconds, the go on to damage the rest of the harness, then the bike, etc., etc.

. If anything happens to the battery during charging, no chance of it damaging the bike. In the days of batteries with liquid acid, charging on the bike, dripping and/or vapour would damage surrounding parts.

ON MY '75 HONDA CT90 I HAVE A 6V INTERSTATE BATTERY THAT USES THE SAME F2 TERMINALS AS THE 12V FIRE/BURGLAR ALARM BATTERIES YOU RECOMMEND FOR THE DAYTONA. AFTER BUMPY RIDES OFF ROAD, THE BATTERY CONNECTORS HAVE SLIPPED OFF. HOW WOULD I AVOID THIS ISSUE ON MY DAYTONA SINCE IT VIBRATES MUCH MORE THAN MY HONDA?

The curled over edges of the female spade terminals want squeezing a little with pliers, so they grip the male spade terminals more tightly.

If the battery male spade terminals have a small hole in the middle, there is a certain type of female spade with a dimple in the centre, that engages in the male spade terminal hole.

If you believe the terminals might still come apart, ziptie the harness wires to something close by - ziptie through the strap slots in the battery carrier?

 

[SIR LOIN]

GREAT INPUT RUDIE. I WILL LOOK FOR A FIRE ALARM BATTERY. WILL 6 AMPS BE ENOUGH? I DON'T RUN MY HEADLIGHT DURING THE DAY AND I DON'T RIDE THE DAYTONA AT NIGHT. ALSO, I DON'T HAVE SIGNALS AND MY BRAKE LIGHT ONLY TURNS ON WHEN I USE THE REAR BRAKE.

 

[Rudie]

WILL 6 AMPS BE ENOUGH? I DON'T RUN MY HEADLIGHT DURING THE DAY AND I DON'T RIDE THE DAYTONA AT NIGHT. ALSO, I DON'T HAVE SIGNALS

The alarm batteries I can get - e.g. the Yuasa NP-7 - are 7 Ah (Amp-hours). No problem on my kickstart Triumphs but almost all my bikes have high output alternators to go with the turn signals, powerful headlamps and pilot bulbs, etc.

BRAKE LIGHT ONLY TURNS ON WHEN I USE THE REAR BRAKE.

Not worried about being rear ended in slow traffic when your feet are off the footrests are you only use the front brake?