I have locked the thread because:-
. You are not interpreting posted advice correctly.
. Some of the posted advice is poor.
Please read this post carefully; when you have
understood my advice, contact me using a private message (called a "Conversation" on this forum, click on the 'closed envelope' icon top right of the webpage) and I will reopen the thread.
I advise you to cancel the purchase:-
. You have not posted any information on what the problem is with the bike. You do not even have the bike.
. Fitting any reg./rec. requires changing the bike's wiring. Ahead of
knowing the
existing problem with the bike, what are you going to do with a new reg./rec., tear into the bike's wiring anyway? You have already posted you lack knowledge; without knowing the existing problem, why change the bike's wiring to fit the reg./rec., with the potential just to add more problems?
.
Depending on what the problem turns out to be, a new reg./rec.
might be a solution. However, the "Lucas" reg./rec. you have bought is one of the least reliable of the available reg./rec.; imho not worth the money. There are more reliable reg./rec. (Podtronics) and there are reg./rec. available on Ebay that are
both more reliable and cheaper.
Aside, be aware the company that uses the "Lucas" branding today to supply electrical parts for old vehicles never had anything to with the original Lucas company that supplied your bike's electrics to Triumph; the modern company - Wassell - simply pays the "Lucas" rights owner to use the branding. Wassell also uses a number of other names of old British components companies - e.g. "Girling" for the brake parts it offers (although "back in the day" Girling never supplied anything to Triumph except rear suspension units). Why Wassell does this instead of using its own company name on its products is open to speculation, the hope is Wassell does not intend to mislead customers without the knowledge above?
Please reread my post #2 and my post #14 in this thread. Most of the information in them also applies to a TSX. The only component that
might be different on a TSX - if the bike does not have an electric starter - is the original alternator might have been the "low output" version (the original Lucas company rated "low output" as 10.5 Amps at 5000 rpm).
Nevertheless, the original alternator was still 3-phase, a 1983 TSX would have had the same 3-Zener strip as a TSS, each Zener connected to one of the AC wires between alternator stator and original rectifier.
![Thumbs Down (n) (n)](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44e.png)
This information is simply wrong for either a TSX or a TSS. This is the worst example of the poor advice that has been posted in this thread, that has led you to the potentially unnecessary purchase of a reg./rec.
Although you do not have the bike yet, because of the incorrect, poor and misleading information that has been posted in this thread, I will
speculate on the
symptom that
might have led to "Seems the Zener Diode is the issue":-
. British bikes built up to some time during 1980 were fitted as standard with a single Zener diode connected across the battery (e.g. the "‘73 650 Bonny" that someone tried to sell you). If
that single Zener fails closed, it makes a short circuit between battery negative and battery positive, that blows the fuse also connected between battery negative and battery positive.
![Thumbs Down (n) (n)](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f44e.png)
This fault is well known on British bikes
built up to some time during 1980.
. As is already in my post #2 for you, during 1980, Lucas stopped supplying/Triumph stopped fitting the single Zener diode connected across the battery. Instead, a strip of three Zeners was fitted, one connected to each wire between the alternator and the rectifier;
as these connections are NOT between the battery terminals, one of
these Zeners failing closed essentially cannot cause the fuse - connected between the battery terminals - to blow.
. I.e.
if the reason for a
1983 TSX (or TSS) "sitting WAY too long" is the fuse blows persistently, the cause cannot possibly be a failed single Zener diode connected across the battery.
. Unless a DPO (Dreaded Previous Owner) has messed with the bike's electrics so badly that a pre 1980 wiring harness - with a single Zener diode connected between the battery terminals - had been fitted to the bike.