1966 Triumph Bonneville hurricane salvage rebuild

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I haven't yet done the tooth-by-tooth examination of each individual gear, but I didn't immediately spot anything obvious when I rinsed everything off after the acid wash. A lot of staining, and still some wire wheel touch-ups to do, but not bad at all...

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I let the stuff sizzle for about 2 minutes, and then flushed the small plastic tray with over 30 gallons of rain water, and hand-rinsed each part in the last available bucket of rainwater. "that'll do"
 
Can you describe the acid bath process a bit more?
I bought a gallon of Muratic acid, put the rusty parts in a plastic tray deep enough for the parts, then SLOWLY poured in 1/2 gallon of it, taking care not to let it splatter, and placed a piece of plastic siding between myself and the parts just in case. I let them sit and sizzle a few minutes then I dumped (5) 5-gallon buckets over the tray, one after the other. About the 3rd one, the acid was dissipated, but I kept on "just in case". I don't need to lose my fingerprints to keep from being arrested, so didn't feeling like dealing with acid burns for no good reason. That stuff is a whole level nastier than battery acid!
 
I bought a gallon of Muratic acid, put the rusty parts in a plastic tray deep enough for the parts, then SLOWLY poured in 1/2 gallon of it, taking care not to let it splatter, and placed a piece of plastic siding between myself and the parts just in case. I let them sit and sizzle a few minutes then I dumped (5) 5-gallon buckets over the tray, one after the other. About the 3rd one, the acid was dissipated, but I kept on "just in case". I don't need to lose my fingerprints to keep from being arrested, so didn't feeling like dealing with acid burns for no good reason. That stuff is a whole level nastier than battery acid!
I've never gotten to the point to use muriatic acid, but remember a shop where I worked in my youth had some. I suspect for the same purpose. It doesn't do anything but remove the undesirable bits? Is the few minutes an experience derived number? Thanks for the description.
 
I've never gotten to the point to use muriatic acid, but remember a shop where I worked in my youth had some. I suspect for the same purpose. It doesn't do anything but remove the undesirable bits? Is the few minutes an experience derived number? Thanks for the description.
Hardly.

I figured "that ought to do it" before the gears started melting!

All of the rust and 98% of the crusty flakes are gone, but there is some staining that may be permanent (not the fault of the acid)
 
Hope you’ll post more pictures. I’m hoping to learn.
I was working in the middle of a cleared spot of land on my property out in the country, where there is no risk of the run-off affecting any wildlife or vegetation (dirt runway ultralight airfield). The dissipation took up a good amount of space, like a large parking place for a vehicle. So, if you don't have a proper way to contain the rinse phase, "don't try this at home"...
 
I was working in the middle of a cleared spot of land on my property out in the country, where there is no risk of the run-off affecting any wildlife or vegetation (dirt runway ultralight airfield). The dissipation took up a good amount of space, like a large parking place for a vehicle. So, if you don't have a proper way to contain the rinse phase, "don't try this at home"...
I recall the shop I worked in gathered the waste in hazard disposal containers and the process was also in a special vat with drain to said containers. Yes, not going to try it at home. LoL. Just want to know as much as possible. I like to know what I'm asking someone else to do and what to expect if I need to bring items to some shop. They might even recommend some other method.
 
When we raced go karts with small 2 strokes, I used CR125 Hondas out to 134cc, on alcohol.
So, we siezed pistons from time to time, and couldn't really go anywhere with the bore... so we used muriatic acid to clean the remains of the siezed piston off the bore surface. It did a good job at not hurting the bore but cleaning off the bits.

When I was parts manager at a marine (Sea Ray) dealer, some used muriatic acid to wash the barnacles off their boats before storage.. it seemed fine for that.. the gel coated fiberglass seemed unaffected ...

The stuff works for a lot of things. Leaving the original material intact it seems, but being careful is important ...

Take it from me though ... you do NOT want to get it in an open wound ....
OUCH for sure.. but the wound will be clean at least. Lol

(Cr125 go kart in the picture)
 

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Guess alcohol was tried in a lot of different types of racing . Snomobile racers experimented with it circa 1970 . In the big displacement classes , mostly 800 cc triples , the regular racing gas tanks weren’t large enough to finish 5 laps on a half mile oval ….
 
We run it in our Suzuki gsx r600 powered "micro sprint" ... its good fuel for high compression and/or high rpm ... with downsides, of course...

I was surprised the first time I heard of sleds on alkyd... only because its hard starting in cold weather...
And its caustic, and fires are often invisible or nearly invisible, and..and..and...
 
That was a long break - BACK TO WORK!

Pulled out the gears that had tooth erosion, there were 4 in total. Refurbished cluster on the left. (Yes, I know, the shifter forks are wrong-way-around)

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I've still got a few leftover good bits (on the right).

Preliminary wash of the transmission case area, still had to fish up around the right side, and the final drive gear with a small brush. What a difference...
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Cleaned up cluster re-installed. Took THREE tries to finally get it all in there with the two tiny rollers in place on the forks (I used a dab of grease on each)
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Since this is not a restoration, I thoroughly cleaned everything but stopped short of vapor blasting (I don't have a blaster). I did replace the mainshaft ball bearing, the one that was in it was inferior quality and corroded inside. Needle bearings cleaned up fine (surprise!). I'm really getting a lot of use out of my little Harbor Freight bench-top press; great investment several years ago.

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Don't forget to smear some grease on the inner cover around the layshaft hole, to stick the thrust washer in place! (I did, but remembered before getting any further). Lined up the center lug of the shift gear with the mainshaft and shifter pivot hole, then tapped it into place.
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Thoroughly cleaned and lubed the kicker gears, sleeve & spring, and installed that lot. This is the same photo as the "before" photo - WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
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Transmission outer cover "before" (the original "before" photo is better, it shows the kicker gear & spring, plus the shifter plunger teeth)
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Outer cover "after" - much better, again! That was it for today.
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I did install the cover, but forgot to get a photo. Maybe tomorrow I'll get in a few more hours...
 

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