'73 DAYTONA T100R

[Rudie]

three position petcock. On/off/reserve. Quite hard to get one though with the correct thread.

It is not.

 

[KKcat]

It is not.

Hi Rudii, can you please post details of this tap that you speak of. I have a T100 with a dodgy tap.
Thanks in advance

 

[Rudie]

I have a T100 with a dodgy tap.

1.

correct 82-1717 petcock - that does both 'main' and 'reserve'

... the pull-for-on plunger at one end does 'main', the other does 'reserve'.
it is a pita to position so both plungers are accessible when sat on the bike - primarily, it does not have a locknut like the separate taps. While I have machined an 82-1717 to take both a locknut and use the 73-7351 and 83-0002 washers, in the end I found it easier to use a completely different tap that had both 'main' and 'reserve'

2. 1/4"BSP RH tap, 1/4"BSP LH tap. If you buy one of these and your bike does not already have them, you will also need a 1/4"BSP tap locknut and the 70-7351 Stat-O-Seal washer and 83-0002 plain washer mentioned with 1. to fit between the locknut and the tank.

Also, you might need access to a 1/4"BSP die - the last ones I know someone bought, the thread was not full length as in the images, needed to fit the locknut and have enough thread length to screw into the tank. Easy to extend the thread with the die as the taps are alloy not steel.

3. Moto Guzzi RH tap, Moto Guzzi LH tap. If you buy one of these:-

. You will also need Triumph parts:-

.. 83-7970 "Petrol tank adaptor" (has the 1/4"BSP thread on one end to screw into the tank and the M16 x 1.0 thread on the other end to fit the tap nut);

.. 00-0075 "Washer, fibre - tap seal" (fits inside the tap nut, seals between the tap and the adaptor);

.. again if your bike does not have them already, 70-7351 Stat-O-Seal washer and 83-0002 plain washer, to fit between the adaptor and the tank.

. Check the internal passages with the plain end of a 4 mm drill bit - I found some of the internal passages were a smaller i.d. ... (Italian quality control? ) again, easy to open up any smaller i.d. with the drill bit as the tap body is aluminium alloy.

I also fitted longer screws to secure the front plate - the screw holes were fully threaded through the body but the original screws only used about half the thread length ... Standard metric thread, M3 iirc.

 

[KKcat]

1.


2. 1/4"BSP RH tap, 1/4"BSP LH tap. If you buy one of these and your bike does not already have them, you will also need a 1/4"BSP tap locknut and the 70-7351 Stat-O-Seal washer and 83-0002 plain washer mentioned with 1. to fit between the locknut and the tank.

Also, you might need access to a 1/4"BSP die - the last ones I know someone bought, the thread was not full length as in the images, needed to fit the locknut and have enough thread length to screw into the tank. Easy to extend the thread with the die as the taps are alloy not steel.

3. Moto Guzzi RH tap, Moto Guzzi LH tap. If you buy one of these:-

. You will also need Triumph parts:-

.. 83-7970 "Petrol tank adaptor" (has the 1/4"BSP thread on one end to screw into the tank and the M16 x 1.0 thread on the other end to fit the tap nut);

.. 00-0075 "Washer, fibre - tap seal" (fits inside the tap nut, seals between the tap and the adaptor);

.. again if your bike does not have them already, 70-7351 Stat-O-Seal washer and 83-0002 plain washer, to fit between the adaptor and the tank.

. Check the internal passages with the plain end of a 4 mm drill bit - I found some of the internal passages were a smaller i.d. ... (Italian quality control? ) again, easy to open up any smaller i.d. with the drill bit as the tap body is aluminium alloy.

I also fitted longer screws to secure the front plate - the screw holes were fully threaded through the body but the original screws only used about half the thread length ... Standard metric thread, M3 iirc.

Many thanks Rudi, excellent information as always. The Moto Guzzi tap looks good.My existing tap is the origional 82 1717 and after replacing the cork seals a few months ago it's leaking again

 

[Rudie]

existing tap is the origional 82 1717 and after replacing the cork seals a few months ago it's leaking again

One of the 82-1717 I have came with black rubber seals. Both came from Tricor-Andy | Triumph Motorcycle Parts & Accessories | UK some years ago. If your 82-1717 tap positions well on the tank and the bores are not scored or otherwise damaged, maybe try the rubber seals if he can supply?

 

[KKcat]

One of the 82-1717 I have came with black rubber seals. Both came from Tricor-Andy | Triumph Motorcycle Parts & Accessories | UK some years ago. If your 82-1717 tap positions well on the tank and the bores are not scored or otherwise damaged, maybe try the rubber seals if he can supply?

By using two fibre washers between tap and tank it positions perfectly and does not leak.I have used Tricor -Andy in the past and found them very good.It would be nice to keep the origional tap as Ive had the bike since 1981 and its mostly origional.I will chase up these rubber seals.Again, many thanks

 

[RShackleford]

I also have a '73 Daytona and I've really appreciated all of the information in this thread. Now I need to ask all you fine gentlemen a question...

Were the authors of the owners manual drunk when they wrote this thing? Owners Manual Link

Check this out... The Control Layout clearly labels the kill switch on the right handlebar & flasher on the left

But the rest of the book goes and says the opposite... according to this the kill switch & flasher are on the left? Where should they actually be?

Also, the manual says the oil capacity is 6 pints or 3 quarts, yet 3 quarts of oil won't even get you to the bottom mark on the dipstick. Should I fill it to the full mark on the dipstick? This would bring the oil level to about the bottom of the oil tank filler neck.

 

[Rudie]

Were the authors of the owners manual drunk when they wrote this thing? Owners Manual Link

Unlikely. More likely is, as Robert Pirsig wrote in "The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance", no company puts its best engineers on writing manuals ... Also, Triumph did not devote much manual staff time to the 500 - for the 73 model year, it had two new models (T65 and T140V/TR7RV), the latter with the new disc brake front also fitted to the T150.

The Control Layout clearly labels the kill switch on the right handlebar & flasher on the left
View attachment 54700
But the rest of the book goes and says the opposite... according to this the kill switch & flasher are on the left? Where should they actually be?
View attachment 54701

The handlebar switch clusters were new for 71 and essentially the same 72 onwards but swapped over; 71, the Kill button/Direction indicator switches' cluster was on the right handlebar (throttle side); '72 on, the cluster was on the left handlebar (clutch lever side).

Also, the manual says the oil capacity is 6 pints or 3 quarts, yet 3 quarts of oil won't even get you to the bottom mark

The manual is absolutely correct - the capacity had been standard across the range for years before 73, only the oil-in-frame models were/are different (less capacity).

More likely is your bike's oil tank cap is a poor quality aftermarket pattern part with a random (wrong) dipstick rivetted to it.

Before Triumph fitted dipsticks to oil tank caps, standard tank, the time-honoured method of checking in the oil quantity was: clench fist, extend signalling finger, insert signalling finger into oil tank until other fingers reach filler neck; if signalling finger's tip has some oil on it, the tank quantity/level is correct.

 

[RShackleford]

Thank you! I got the dipstick from classic British spares a while back. I was putting more oil into the bike and thankfully I ran out before I added too much because the level is now about a half inch up my signalling finger. This roughly corresponds to the 'L' line on the dipstick

 

[Rudie]

dipstick from classic British spares
level is now about a half inch up my signalling finger. This roughly corresponds to the 'L' line on the dipstick

Advise CBS? Kyle is normally on the ball with incorrect spares.