'73 DAYTONA T100R
- Thread starter SIR LOIN
- Start date
Help Support Triumph Motorcycle Forum:
We can too in the UK; ime, even more important to have applying the front brake turning on the light, reduces the risk of being rear-ended by another bike.
If you decide to try it:-
. 73 T100 front brake cable part number is 60-4118. For some reason, current stock online is without a front brake switch;
not sure if this was always on 73 T100 or just current (ime, the wholesalers make random changes for no apparent reason 
).. Front brake cable definitely with a switch is 60-2076; was fitted to the T100 before 73, same brake, forks, handlebars, brake lever so the cable should be a straight swap. The switch requires a White wire and a Brown wire:-
.. Connect the White wire at an existing White wires snap connector inside the headlight shell.
.. End of the Brown wire is in the main harness inside the headlight shell? If not, run a new Brown wire ziptied to the main harness, tap into the existing Brown wire between rear brake switch and light.
One thing to be aware of is some people believe the switch affects brake performance. I have never experienced the problem, even on a heavier bike with the same brake, cable and switch; other T100 owners I know have not experienced the problem.
SIR LOIN
Member
RUDIE, IS THERE ANYTHING YOU DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE DAYTONA? GREAT INFO.
I BOUGHT THE 6 AMP BATTERY AND THE BIKE RUNS FINE AND IS CHARGING WELL. I RODE 20 MILES AND CHECKED THE VOLTAGE. IT WAS 13.1 AND DROPPED TO 12.9 TWO HOURS AFTER THE RIDE. MY
IS THE BIKE WAS A FIRST KICK START UP BIKE AND NOW IT TAKES 4 OR 5 KICKS TO START IT UP. IS THIS A LOW AMP ISSUE? SHALL I GET A HIGHER AMP BATTERY?
ALSO, MY RIGHT CARB LEAKS GAS AS SOON AS I TURN THE PETCOCK ON IF IT HAS BEEN SITTING A WEEK OR TWO. I HAD THIS ISSUE A FEW MONTHS AGO AND IT SEEMED TO SOLVE ITSELF BUT NOW HAS REARED ITS UGLY HEAD. A FEW TAPS ON THE TICKLER AND TWIST OF THE THROTTLE CURE IT BUT I WOULD LIKE TO FIX IT ONCE AND FOR ALL.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I BOUGHT THE 6 AMP BATTERY AND THE BIKE RUNS FINE AND IS CHARGING WELL. I RODE 20 MILES AND CHECKED THE VOLTAGE. IT WAS 13.1 AND DROPPED TO 12.9 TWO HOURS AFTER THE RIDE. MY
IS THE BIKE WAS A FIRST KICK START UP BIKE AND NOW IT TAKES 4 OR 5 KICKS TO START IT UP. IS THIS A LOW AMP ISSUE? SHALL I GET A HIGHER AMP BATTERY?ALSO, MY RIGHT CARB LEAKS GAS AS SOON AS I TURN THE PETCOCK ON IF IT HAS BEEN SITTING A WEEK OR TWO. I HAD THIS ISSUE A FEW MONTHS AGO AND IT SEEMED TO SOLVE ITSELF BUT NOW HAS REARED ITS UGLY HEAD. A FEW TAPS ON THE TICKLER AND TWIST OF THE THROTTLE CURE IT BUT I WOULD LIKE TO FIX IT ONCE AND FOR ALL.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Initially, I do not think so. What concerns me more is "CHECKED THE VOLTAGE. IT WAS 13.1 AND DROPPED TO 12.9 TWO HOURS AFTER THE RIDE", it should not do this.
Firstly, the battery is a lead-acid type, the acid is either a gel or absorbed in fibreglass (AGM) between the plates, is why the battery can be mounted in any orientation except upside down.
As a lead-acid battery, fully charged should measure 12.6V between the terminals, so your meter is over-reading by about 0.5V.
12.3V would indicate a half-discharged battery; if that 0.5V is subtracted from "12.9 TWO HOURS AFTER", your new battery is nearly half-discharged after just two hours!
You can buy your own battery load tester, or have it load-tested by an auto-electrician. If the latter, maybe take it first to somewhere other than where you bought it - if you have to take it back to the seller, avoids the possibility of him not telling the truth when he says he has tested it and it is "fine"?
Another quick load test is: connect your meter across the battery when all switches on the bike are off, note the meter reading, then watch what the meter does when you turn on the ignition switch. As your bike still has points, if both sets are closed, the two coils will draw around 7A~8A, the Volt drop could be significant if the battery is faulty.
Sounds as if the float is sticking, not rising with fuel level to push the float needle down to close the bowl inlet; the tapping or increased vibration from the "TWIST OF THE THROTTLE" loosens the sticking?
Might be nothing more than maybe the bowl gasket is interfering slightly with float movement. However, does your bike still have the (off) white plastic floats and needles? If so, they are all affected by ethanol sooner or later,
should be replaced by black "Stay Up" floats and Viton tipped aluminium needles.
suzook12
Well-Known Member
That's perfectly normal, what you are seeing is what's known as a surface charge. Your charging system will have been throwing around 14.5V at it so initially it can read slightly high. 12.73V is the actual 100% charged mark for a lead acid, 12.8+ for an AGM type. Yes, your meter may be slightly off, but it's close enough, unless you want to pay big money for a calibrated Fluke or similar, and as most batteries are AGM type, puts yours right in ballpark. Flick the lights on for a few seconds, measure the battery under load, and again at rest after 30 minutes. That should dissipate any surface charge and allow the battery to settle to a state of charge reading. With the lights on it shouldn't drop very much at all, about 12.5V ish would be expected......
Last edited:
I only see "surface charge" after a battery has been charged on a trickle charger, without any load on it. I would not expect to see it after riding 20 miles, as the battery has been supplying the ignition and any lights, particularly at the low rpm at the end of the ride.
Just turning on the ignition should dissipate any battery 'surface charge', one set of points closed, the coil will draw around 3.5 Amps from the battery, both set of points closed, the coils will draw around 7A from the battery. Is why I do not expect 'surface charge' after the engine has been running.
Not the information I have. I have seen AGM and gel battery manufacturers claim 12.8V for their batteries fully-charged but never seen it in real life - do not expect to as I am not aware of any chemical difference between liquid acid, acid in a fibreglass mat or acid as a gel? Do you have any more information you can link?
Do not know about the US but ime multimeters available in the UK vary in their calibration, not always by the cost. I do not own a Fluke or similar expensive brand but have a couple of much cheaper brands that have had their calibration checked.
Just check the battery Volts again after another two hours?
suzook12
Well-Known Member
It would depend on your procedures I guess. Most turn off and drop it on the stand rather than sit idling for any time. That process on "most" bikes, kills ignition, lights and anything else almost instantaeneously. So in those circumstances, flipping the seat and cvheacking the battery can indeed see a surface charge.
The information is freely available out there. As for the differences. The difference that creates a higher voltage if I understand this correctly, is that the electrolite is a different strength, and as it doesn't sulfide at the same rate or boil off, if maintains a stronger electrolite......
There is calibration and then there's calibration. A £30 multimeter is 99% of the time perfectly good enough. However, do not mistake the "calibration certificate" that comes in box with a new item as an actual industry standard calibration. From memory, the calibration tests are in the region of £75 on top of the cost of the meter. Some will last 6 months, some 3, some a year, some until battery is replaced. Doing what we do, none of this really relevant, for once, close is close enough. The additional functions of the better meters also come in very useful, especially when entering the realms of fault finding electronic ignitions, frequency counters are a very useful tool. Really expensive ones will have an inbuilt oscilloscope, Interestingly, the number of flukes that fail calibration retests is pretty high. When on the rails, we were on 3 or 6 monthly recals, which invariably resulted in a new fluke..... But they were at a very high standard.......
A couple of hours would usually be fine, although iirc, overnight if no load is applied is the official line. Bear in mind, we are talking small motorcycle batteries here so yeah, couple of hours.
"information is freely available out there", yes. Information everyone agrees on? No. I googled, "agm battery full charge volts":-https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/motorcycle-and-powersport/battery-discharging-charging-characteristics/
... note "may" in the second sentence.
https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/technical-support/maximising-battery-life
https://workshoppist.com/agm-battery-state-of-charge/
I know Motobatt claim 12.8V and there are some even wilder claims out there, ones that would have me checking my meter calibration if I saw them in real life.
The lead acid battery has been around since about the middle of the 19th century. 12.6V is 2.1V per cell, something I learned in school and college over fifty years ago. 12.8V is just 0.03V (three hundredths of a Volt) higher; I perceive laboratory conditions and cherry picking wishful thinking by some battery makers' advertising departments?
My method has been to take my meters to a friendly local auto electrician. He knows I work with 12V (and 6V) vehicle batteries and to only tenths of a Volt. He puts a battery on his bench, connects his calibrated meter to it, then connects my meter to the same battery, tells me whether my meter reads the same as his meter or how much different, no more than +/-0.1V.
Have not met an auto electrician that uses Fluke meters for years, usually for the same reason.
suzook12
Well-Known Member
I'm glad you searched out all of those quotes, all except the last says "or higher", and the last gives a table showing very much higher. That one is only talking about AGM's specifically, the others are for both, so kinda verifies what I said. As in the last article that gives ranges of voltage, gives more of an indication why Yuasa "may be higher" as it appears that nailing an exact figure down is very dependant on other factors....... I have no issues with Motobatts claims and have seen similar figures from those and other batteries. I also have no qualms with the calibtration on my fluke, and have 2 other DMM's to verify it against. At 12v dc, I have never known a fluke to be off, fail yes, accuracy drift, no.....
https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/motorcycle-and-powersport/battery-discharging-charging-characteristics/
... note "may" in the second sentence.
https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/technical-support/maximising-battery-life
https://workshoppist.com/agm-battery-state-of-charge/
I know Motobatt claim 12.8V and there are some even wilder claims out there, ones that would have me checking my meter calibration if I saw them in real life.
The lead acid battery has been around since about the middle of the 19th century. 12.6V is 2.1V per cell, something I learned in school and college over fifty years ago. 12.8V is just 0.03V (three hundredths of a Volt) higher; I perceive laboratory conditions and cherry picking wishful thinking by some battery makers' advertising departments?
My method has been to take my meters to a friendly local auto electrician. He knows I work with 12V (and 6V) vehicle batteries and to only tenths of a Volt. He puts a battery on his bench, connects his calibrated meter to it, then connects my meter to the same battery, tells me whether my meter reads the same as his meter or how much different, no more than +/-0.1V.
Have not met an auto electrician that uses Fluke meters for years, usually for the same reason.
Calibration, unless you know what level your friends is claibrated to, your +/-0.1 could be as much as 0.2 out...... Perfectly adequate for most of what we do, BUT, what accuracy do you have on ohms? Or mA? Or frequency/dwell angle/any other function? Does it matter? Probably not if all you are doing is checking batteries and tinkering with old bikes.
I can assure you, that will be more down to cost. I have yet to meet an auto electrician that requires anywhere near the level of accuracy top end DMM's provide, and auto electricians do not require the traceability that industrial or domestic electricians require, or rail or aircraft industry for that matter, so their calibration standards won't be as severe. I have also never met an auto electrion who owns a calibrated set of crimp pliers whereas the groups above are obliged to have them....
You miss my point. I am not cherry picking so I can post "kinda verifies what I said", I linked those quotes to back up, "Information everyone agrees on? No."
Do the same as I did and follow the links, you can find quotes to "verify" whatever you want.
Otoh, I do not believe Motobatt and other makers who claim 12.8V and higher because not ime.
No qualms with calibration of both my "good" meters.
They are calibrated same as your Fluke. Any auto electrician that works on modern vehicles must have a calibrated meter because vehicle makers often give Volts/Amps/Ohms ranges for fault diagnosis.
How, if they display the same as a calibrated meter measuring the same power source?
We were posting about Volts. But they have all been checked at one time or another.
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
Initially, I do not think so. What concerns me more is "CHECKED THE VOLTAGE. IT WAS 13.1 AND DROPPED TO 12.9 TWO HOURS AFTER THE RIDE", it should not do this.
Firstly, the battery is a lead-acid type, the acid is either a gel or absorbed in fibreglass (AGM) between the plates, is why the battery can be mounted in any orientation except upside down.
As a lead-acid battery, fully charged should measure 12.6V between the terminals, so your meter is over-reading by about 0.5V.
12.3V would indicate a half-discharged battery; if that 0.5V is subtracted from "12.9 TWO HOURS AFTER", your new battery is nearly half-discharged after just two hours!
You can buy your own battery load tester, or have it load-tested by an auto-electrician. If the latter, maybe take it first to somewhere other than where you bought it - if you have to take it back to the seller, avoids the possibility of him not telling the truth when he says he has tested it and it is "fine"?
Another quick load test is: connect your meter across the battery when all switches on the bike are off, note the meter reading, then watch what the meter does when you turn on the ignition switch. As your bike still has points, if both sets are closed, the two coils will draw around 7A~8A, the Volt drop could be significant if the battery is faulty.
Sounds as if the float is sticking, not rising with fuel level to push the float needle down to close the bowl inlet; the tapping or increased vibration from the "TWIST OF THE THROTTLE" loosens the sticking?
Might be nothing more than maybe the bowl gasket is interfering slightly with float movement. However, does your bike still have the (off) white plastic floats and needles? If so, they are all affected by ethanol sooner or later,
speedrattle
Well-Known Member
hmm
i own two fluke meters and two pairs of of calibrated crimpers , one for american style connectors and another for lucas bullets.
actually i gave one of the meters to my techy daughter
i have about eleven or twelve hammers
i own two fluke meters and two pairs of of calibrated crimpers , one for american style connectors and another for lucas bullets.
actually i gave one of the meters to my techy daughter
i have about eleven or twelve hammers
suzook12
Well-Known Member
About the same. My lad is slowly taking over all of it, he's in his first year at college doing automotive and engineering courses
SIR LOIN
Member
GENTLEMEN.I HAVE WHAT MIGHT SEEM LIKE A S
ID BUT HERE IT GOES. MY 73 DAYTONA HAS ONE PETCOCK ON THE LEFT SIDE WITH NO RESERVE SETTING AND 2 CARBS. THE GAS TANK SITS ON THE FRAME TUBE LIKE ON ALL 60'S AND 70'S TRIUMPHS I HAVE SEEN. HOW DOES THE GAS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE TANK GET TO THE FUEL LINE ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TANK SINCE THE GAS SITS LOWER IN THE TANK THAN THE FRAME TUBE WHICH SPLITS THE TANK?MY BUDDY HAS A 650 TIGER WITH 2 PETCOCKS AND HE STATES THAT THE LEFT PETCOCK IS THE RESERVE AND HE ONLY OPENS IT WHEN THE BIKE SPUTTERS.
DOES THIS MEAN THAT HALF HIS GAS TANK IS ONLY USED AS A RESERVE?
MY BIKE ONLY HAVING ONE PETCOCK ON THE LEFT CAN ONLY UTILIZE HALF THE TANKS CAPACITY?
DRAIN PLUG, I HAVE HAD ZERO OIL LEAKS. THE BIKE 
SITS FOR A MONTH WITHOUT LEAKING.
No. Your friend has reserve because one petcock has a tube sticking higher up in the tank. The petcock with no tube is the reserve.
I HAVE WHAT MIGHT SEEM LIKE A S
MY BUDDY HAS A 650 TIGER WITH 2 PETCOCKS AND HE STATES THAT THE LEFT PETCOCK IS THE RESERVE AND HE ONLY OPENS IT WHEN THE BIKE SPUTTERS.
DOES THIS MEAN THAT HALF HIS GAS TANK IS ONLY USED AS A RESERVE?
MY BIKE ONLY HAVING ONE PETCOCK ON THE LEFT CAN ONLY UTILIZE HALF THE TANKS CAPACITY?
I have an OIF bike. Very big tunnel running through tank. Still uses fuel from both sides. Must splash about when riding, it's a mystery.
If you look in the Triumph 73 T100R parts book, your bike's tank is listed as 83-4870 "(3-1/2 U.S. Galls.)" (in reality, it takes a little more empty to full?).
Your bike's tank was normally fitted to what Triumph called "UK & General Export" versions, US market bikes normally had the smaller "2-1/2 U.S. Galls" tank (83-4871 in 73).
However, what is not clear from the 73 T100R parts book is "one petcock on the left side" is correct, but the corresponding correct 82-1717 petcock - that does both 'main' and 'reserve' - is not listed ...
:-
... the pull-for-on plunger at one end does 'main', the other does 'reserve'. It is only the smaller US market T100 tanks that had the separate taps:-
If you consider fitting the 82-1717 tap to your bike, be warned it is a pita to position so both plungers are accessible when sat on the bike - primarily, it does not have a locknut like the separate taps.
While I have machined an 82-1717 to take both a locknut and use the 73-7351 and 83-0002 washers, in the end I found it easier to use a completely different tap that had both 'main' and 'reserve'; let me know if you want any details.At the rear, the bottom and top of the tank are quite close together, much of the fuel in the right side of the tank moves to the left side there. However, if you were stuck miles from anywhere apparently out of fuel, I suspect tipping the bike towards its left side, particularly if you could also raise the front, would get some more fuel from the right to the left sides of the tank.
Your buddy's bike either has the same two taps as listed in the 73 T100R parts book or very similar - as @solomon posted, the 'main' tap has a length of pipe inside the filter so it does not draw fuel from the bottom of the tank; when the fuel level drops to the top of the pipe, the bike misfires and he turns on the other - 'reserve' - tap; this latter tap does not have the length of pipe inside the filter so it does draw fuel from the bottom of the tank.
SIR LOIN
Member
SO APPARENTLY THE GAS SPLASHES FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER AND FEEDS THE PETCOCK OR PETCOCKS? THAT WAS OUR GUESS BUT IT DIDN'T SOUND RIGHT. IF I RIDE IN A STRAIGHT LINE ONLY THE LEFT SIDE OF MY TANK IS USED?
I KNEW I COULD COUNT ON YOU GUYS TO HELP SOLVE THIS MYSTERY.
THANKS AGAIN GENTLEMEN.
I KNEW I COULD COUNT ON YOU GUYS TO HELP SOLVE THIS MYSTERY.
THANKS AGAIN GENTLEMEN.
Looking at back of tank, it would be quite low on fuel until two sides are separate.
If you ride perfectly upright in a straight line on a glass-smooth road and the engine somehow didn't vibrate, the two sides would remain separate once fuel is below tunnel level...
until you accelerate, or brake, and the fuel sloshes around.
Try riding with a coffee cup half-full, and see if you can avoid spilling any!
If you have only one petcock you won't have much in the way of reserve. Just the little that might remain on the other side, and might be usable by lying bike over. You could fit a three position petcock. On/off/reserve. Quite hard to get one though with the correct thread.
