Engine Knock Or Rattle

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zoltt140e

Member
Hi all. I have been working on the 69 tr6r and finally able to take it for a ride. When the engine is under load like going up a hill and accelerating the engine will knock but sounds more like a rattle. The throttle is usually between 1/4 and half throttle when this happens. If I down shift or roll slightly off the throttle it quiets down. I first thought it was the carb but the bike did run ok the last time it was on the road in 1996 and was stripped and cleaned. I did install a morgo oil pump and messed up the ignition advance unit. So I installed a pazon electronic ignition and 6 volt coils in series. So now the bike runs good but still knocks when hot and under load. I set the timing as best I could with a strobe light as my tachometer is frozen and broke the cable so I cannot tell what rpm it is timed at or what rpm I get the knock. Thinking it may be a lean condition I was able to close the choke and the knock/rattle stopped but the bike lost power. Any suggestions on further troubleshooting is appreciated!

Thanks
Zolt
 
69 tr6r
When the engine is under load like going up a hill and accelerating the engine will knock but sounds more like a rattle. The throttle is usually between 1/4 and half throttle when this happens. If I down shift or roll slightly off the throttle it quiets down.
I cannot tell what rpm
I get the knock.
"up hill", "accelerating", small throttle opening, that it goes away if you "down shift or roll slightly off the throttle" suggests detonation or pre-ignition. Both are very bad for any engine.

Take a look at the piston tops. If patches of piston are visible, instead of a uniform covering of soot, those patches were cause by detonation blowing off the soot in those areas. That is very bad. If you do not fix the causes, the engine will hole one or both pistons.

the bike did run ok the last time it was on the road in 1996
That was 25 years ago.

messed up the ignition advance unit. So I installed a pazon electronic ignition
the bike runs good but still knocks when hot and under load. I set the timing as best I could
my tachometer is frozen and broke the cable
I cannot tell what rpm it is timed at or what rpm I get the knock.
So your problem might be nothing more than you have not set the timing accurately, possibly too far advanced?

Set the timing accurately. If you cannot fix the bike's tachometer, a near match Emgo pattern one for sixty bucks is much cheaper than an engine rebuild.

Or buy a cheap one that works attached to an HT lead. Or use a strobe with a rpm indicator. These might require some calculation because they are usually set for a four cylinder engine and distributor, where each spark plug fires only every other crankshaft revolution; otoh, your bike is effectively a single cylinder firing every crankshaft revolution.

Once you know the timing is set correctly, one possibility to alleviate the symptoms the bike is experiencing is retarding the full-advance setting by one or two degrees.

engine is under load like going up a hill and accelerating
throttle is usually between 1/4 and half
Mark the throttle housing beside the handgrip where you can see the mark when seated on the bike.

Mark the handgrip beside the throttle housing with four marks corresponding to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and wot.

When you are riding and experience an unusual condition look at the handgrip marks, you do not have to guess the throttle position.

engine is under load like going up a hill and accelerating
throttle is usually between 1/4 and half
Try using a lower gear and more engine rpm. A '69 TR6R is not a Hardly Dangerous, you cannot ride it like one.
 
"up hill", "accelerating", small throttle opening, that it goes away if you "down shift or roll slightly off the throttle" suggests detonation or pre-ignition. Both are very bad for any engine.

Take a look at the piston tops. If patches of piston are visible, instead of a uniform covering of soot, those patches were cause by detonation blowing off the soot in those areas. That is very bad. If you do not fix the causes, the engine will hole one or both pistons.


That was 25 years ago.


So your problem might be nothing more than you have not set the timing accurately, possibly too far advanced?

Set the timing accurately. If you cannot fix the bike's tachometer, a near match Emgo pattern one for sixty bucks is much cheaper than an engine rebuild.

Or buy a cheap one that works attached to an HT lead. Or use a strobe with a rpm indicator. These might require some calculation because they are usually set for a four cylinder engine and distributor, where each spark plug fires only every other crankshaft revolution; otoh, your bike is effectively a single cylinder firing every crankshaft revolution.

Once you know the timing is set correctly, one possibility to alleviate the symptoms the bike is experiencing is retarding the full-advance setting by one or two degrees.


Mark the throttle housing beside the handgrip where you can see the mark when seated on the bike.

Mark the handgrip beside the throttle housing with four marks corresponding to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and wot.

When you are riding and experience an unusual condition look at the handgrip marks, you do not have to guess the throttle position.


Try using a lower gear and more engine rpm. A '69 TR6R is not a Hardly Dangerous, you cannot ride it like one.
Thank you GrandPaul and Rudie. Interesting video on the rotor. I never knew that can happen. I emptied the gas tank and filled it with 93 octane which didn't fix the problem. I mentioned it ran good in 1996 because the carb jetting and mufflers had not changed so it may not be contributing to the problem. I then marked the ignition pickup plate and the timing cover and retarded the timing slightly. I then took the bike for a ride and adjusted until the engine knock went away. The bike is running really well now. I forget sometimes that these bikes are like when I used to tune my 1969 camaro back in the day.
Thanks again
Zolt
 
Great that it was just timing. That's from normal wear, you have to compensate.
I figured i would check the least expensive things first. I do have my eye on the amal premier carb though. I know about the normal wear thing. I feel it when i get off the bike after a long ride!
Zolt
 

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