Waste Spark Wiring Setup Please Need Help Lol

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So before i start explaining my problem please dont say just block off the other 2 plugs. I finishing a 1969 triumph that and old school friend who past years ago, is what im finishing in his way. this thing is so custom that everything was a pain in the ass but that what makes it what its is. so i got a custom head that was made and machined for 2 14mm and 2 10mm plugs a set of 2 dual coil packs boyer box ign, 750 in 650cc casing, dual 58mm carbs, 19degree rake bo front fender interal springs in frame so it looks ridge but rides like a soft and everything else to a book of 13k in parts. just to paint the picture lol it was dougs vision to have this one off bike and im new to this the last thing this bike needs is correct wiring. my 2 questions are the power to the coils are they wire one pos and one neg each meaning parrelled or do they jumpover in series one pos, a lopp from neg to pos on next and then neg out. next the plugs each cyclinder has a 10mm and 14mm plug do i take a 10 from coil a and 14 from coil b and cross over or do both plugs come from same coil. i think it should cross over for a waste spark. lol and to add to the mess its pos earth. If you can help please do this is a 8 year project with this left then its ready its painted air in tire gas in tank. thanks Lenny
 

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Looking at the photo it looks like a lot of work has been put into the bike. I am sure when some of our classic members read it they would be able to give you a better idea on your question.
 
On the spark issue, it all depends on what ignition is triggering the coils: points, or electronic?

If electronic, which brand? Also if electronic, is it wired positive or negative ground?

I would never trust a Boyer to fire quad plugs, period.
 
Hey thanks for response, Ha yeah so its electric its boyer its a red box and a round electric board where points would be believe in papers i read it was boyer kit as well, i tried these small black dual coils that where given with bike i forgot the name they where British and when i looked them up they are over 100 each, but with ohm reading it looks like someone hooked them up wrong and blow them, so a friend told me to try these Harley Davidson dual coils, 30 each i figure its cheaper to learn aka if i blow them. i got pos+ earth so thats fun to deal with,

1. but what i need to know is do i power and ground each coil independently (parallel) or do i use one power lead in then loop it to second coil and ground out (series)

2. then after that head ach do i cross the plug wires over, meaning coil one 14mm plug to cyclinder 1 do i take coil one 10mm waste spark to cylinder 2 or does it go in cylinder one if that makes any sense to anyone
Thanks - Lenny
 
Sorry, but even standard electrics with instructions are a black art that I have trouble mastering, let alone trying to work out a custom set up. That is way beyond me, good luck and don't let the smoke escape from the wires as we all know, the wires won't work once the smoke escapes.
 
Since it is "wasted spark", it matters not which wire goes to which plug; they ALL fire at the same time.

As to wiring scheme (parallel vs series), the total resistance needs to be within the Boyer's specifications.

Either way will work -

If series, you need (2) 6v coils, to result in one 12v load.

If parallel, you need (2) 12v coils.

Either way, the total load (in ohms) needs to be correctly calculated, or it won't work right.

Your final issue may be the difference in spark plugs. I don't know enough to know how effectively the entire system will end up working.
 
Thank you very much Grandpa you seem to really how you stuff you gave me the best dancer is out of three different forms I posted this question on I am running 12 volt coil packs so I guess doing in parallel with me the right way I have NGK plugs this was all designed by God I grew up in the seventies built all this custom stuff even the head is custard made I talk to the guy at map that made that had only eight of them were made before the mold was stolen and broken the guy actually off at the bottom I head back while assembling it the Pistons a cost of every freaking thing on this bike is custom and it's been a pain going through but I'm trying to build it the way the guy usually designed it would have built it he was very passionate of tryouts and he was one of these old-time is that wanted a hundred percent cost 250 or that date the best it could be so I've gone through it I bought the bike $3,500 with a book of receipts that he has 13 Grand until I drop maybe another eight into building the bike and this is where I'm stuck I have all the parts it's just wiring ignition the boyer is in there and I have reached out to boyer formation they sent me a list I know it's an MK3 boyer box this guy had the best of the best made for map making the head and the Pistons to the British cycle company jay straight so all these guys that you know where the masters of this field and all this is supposed to be a one-off but and all other people in the past and told me to plug the head and just run the two plug thing and all this guy spent the money on the since in the head and doing it I want to do it right I no that he had designed it with eight millimeter wires and NGK 14 and 10 millimeter plugs I read online the different positions of a plug even the head head which is kind of unique for Extra Strength
 
I'm having fun deciding where I want to place virtual punctuation in your posts, and what words you perhaps meant to type, but typed something else.

I will reserve further judgement about the Boyer ignition until you report that it is running well on all 4 plugs!

FOR SURE you need a good quality modern AGM battery, and a KNOWN G OO D alternator stator & rotor, as well as a properly functioning zener diode regulator and 3-plate bridge rectifier, or solid state regulator/rectifier KNOWN to be outputting near 14V. Boyer electronic ignitions are universally recognized to be the most voltage-sensitive of ALL brands on the market.

Don't worry about positive ground being different, it's actually exactly the same thing, only "backwards". REMEMBER that with everythign you connect, ESPECIALLY the Boyer box and coils. Hopefully your coils are marked "+" and "-", they work best when wired exactly as the Boyer instructions state.

I suggest you leave wiring lights and accessories till AFTER you have the basic alternator, battery, ignition and coils wired correctly and the bike running FIRST. I would even buy a simple, heavy-duty SPST toggle switch and use in an in-line connection from the battery directly to the ignition. This will eliminate ANY doubt about false connection thru a keyswitch, and can be quickly de-activated like a kill switch in an emergency over-run situation.
 
Ha Sorry GrandPaul was typing on a phone auto correct made that grand pa no disrespect intended, you are very knowledgeable so i hold the up most respect for you! Ill let you know this weekend how and what happens thanks again its easy after that just headlite and taillight nothing else also its a 3 wire alternator that was the largest at the time of designing this 10 years ago i been looking online found out its called a dual plug head and its suppose to add up to 12hp done right realistically alll i seen so for is 5hp gain on others but my angles for pluggs are different then theres ill send up some pics Thanks Again
 
I'm having fun deciding where I want to place virtual punctuation in your posts, and what words you perhaps meant to type, but typed something else.

Well said GP, I was having exactly the same issue in understanding what was meant.
All good sensible advice as usual GP.

It should be interesting to see whether there is any gain from dual plug heads.
 
... i been looking online found out its called a dual plug head and its suppose to add up to 12hp done right ...
I don't know where you are looking, but if that was the case, every engine on every motorcycle ever built, would have dual plugs!

You'll be lucky to gain fractional HP, maybe a horse and a half, ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL.
 
This is why i was asking, all these people post this stuff, and trying to see if real difference or not, here are some of what i seen. people post things all the time with no brains and i have to try to find a correct way of doing something or not how to blow my bike up lol. when i heard that dual plugging a head where updates for hp, i myself was thinking as well why dosen't everyone do this as well. my thinking of this setup up was it was if anything a better solution to the crappy gas today verse the 70's. but all in all the head was made, the guy had a reason for it i just never found out why he did it before he past away and then it became my goal to finish and in that i was trying to learn why it was an option to do. this was the first bike i built and its british so talk about a learning process lol. here is where my resreach ended and i started to ask forums for help. once again thanks GrandPaul for your help you got me intrested in this book old bikes where can i find it, i tried amazon but no luck send me a link brother. the link below actually shows 6v coil and 12 volt ones but doesnt explain what u did for me so im greatful for info. check out some of BS and good info i had to sort thru...

look at replay #5 for the HP gain so i didnt know if it was tru or bs
Dual Plug Triumph Head? - The Jockey Journal Board

Somewhere in here they mention 2 to 7hp gain again tru or bs
Triumph MC dual plug heads?

just found diagram of the setup here if anyone else needs it
Dual plug head question

This guy gordy said somthing about it
Gordy's Goodworks
 
On their own, dual plugs will gain you very nearly nothing, not worth the potential problems they invite, especially if not done properly.

In very high-end racing engines, with MANY intricately balanced upgrades all working together, the benefits are relatively greater (than the stand-alone performance upgrade) even though still relatively minute overall (when expressed as a line-item percentage increase in performance).

I would never presume to second guess John Healy, he's a definite "known quantity"

You seem insistent to make them work as they were originally implemented, and that's all well and good. I hope it all works out and holds together. You should know within a few hundred miles of getting it running. It'll be real easy to prove, just disconnect the power to the second coil and compare performance.
 
Hi Lenny,

Just found this thread (devil, idle hands, etc. :) ) and, without wishing to denigrate the other posters (several of whom I recognise from other Triumph forums), 'fraid you haven't been given correct information. :(

boyer its a red box
I have reached out to boyer formation they sent me a list I know it's an MK3 boyer box
Someone's misunderstood you; Boyer-Bransden "red box" is specifically MicroDigital. Bransden colour-codes his boxes, "MK3" is - literally - a black 'box'; :) his other one is MicroPower, which is a blue 'box'.

Btw, if the bike doesn't have them already, MicroDigital requires either resistor plugs or caps.

do i power and ground each coil independently (parallel) or do i use one power lead in then loop it to second coil and ground out (series)
Never, ever connect multiple coils in "parallel" to a B-B (or Pazon, Tri-Spark "Classic Twin", etc.).

As a general rule, the primary design criterion of coils to be switched by points or points-replacement e.i. is they draw between 3 and 4 Amps when the rated Volts are applied across them; this generally applies to all makes. If you know Ohm's Law (E=IR aka Volts = Amps x Ohms), for a '12V' coil to draw between 3 and 4 Amps, its primary resistance will be between 4 Ohms and 3 Ohms respectively; for a '6V' coil to draw between 3 and 4 Amps, its primary resistance will be between 2 Ohms and 1.5 Ohms respectively, etc.

When two or more electrical components are connected to the same switch in "parallel", their Amps are added together. This applies whether you're calculating the Amps passing through, say, the ignition switch (ignition + lights + horn + yadda, yadda) or two ignition coils switched by an electronic ignition.

Two '12V' coils connected in parallel to a B-B MicroDigital e.i. will draw between 6 and 8 Amps. http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00081.pdf are the B-B fitting instructions for a MicroDigital on a Triumph twin; they specifically say, "The maximum ignition coil current through the unit must not exceed 5 amps", so between 6 and 8 Amps will fcuk (a technical term) the e.i. 'box'.

Connecting multiple coils to a B-B e.i., they must be in "series" - the box is connected to just one coil terminal - "neg" on a "positive earth" bike - that coil's "pos" terminal is connected to the next coil's "neg" terminal, and so on 'til just the last coil in the series "pos" terminal is connected to battery "pos".

Electrical components in "series", their individual Ohms (resistances) are added together. Problem with that is, when you add the 3-4 Ohms each of two '12V' coils together, you end up with between 6 and 8 Ohms; nominal 12V electrical system and Ohm's Law says the current draw is cut to between 2 and 1.5 Amps respectively. Cutting current draw is good? Not for an ignition coil - they turn input into output and, if you cut the input by half, you cut the output to a quarter; i.e. a coil that could generate 20,000V HT can't generate more than about 5,000V. :(

Bransden allege you can use two '12V' coils connected in series on a twin; however, ime if you contact them about an ignition problem, one of the first questions they ask is, "Are you using 12V coils?"; if you answer yes, they'll advise you fit 6V coils ...

Your next problem will likely be finding dual-output coils specifically with a primary resistance between 1.5 and 2 Ohms ... Fwiw, years ago, one of the Jap bike makers (Kawasaki?) used 'em for a while in normal 12V electrics, in conjunction with a ballast resistor each. God knows why because, if either coil or b.r. failed, it took out the other component; naturally, of course, neither were cheap to replace ...

Fwiw, most people I know with dual-plugged heads use either B-B MicroPower (blue 'box') or - more preferably - Pazon Smart-Fire. These work more like modern ignitions, in that the coils are special low-resistance (0.5 Ohm?) and are charged by a short (micro-seconds) burst of high Volts (400V?).

do i cross the plug wires over, meaning coil one 14mm plug to cyclinder 1 do i take coil one 10mm waste spark to cylinder 2
Not important whether it's "waste spark" or not.

The important thing with any twin-lead coil is the HT circuit is entirely independent and self-contained (unlike a single-lead coil). As such, the HT Volts are across the plug gaps of both the attached plugs, sparks jump plug gaps in compressed fuel/air worse than they do in uncompressed, so certainly Bransden's advice is each twin-lead coil should be connected to different cylinders. That said, certainly the coils he supplies with MicroPower can generate up to 35,000V and I know people racing high-compression six-plug triples with each twin-lead coil connected to one cylinder.

to add to the mess its pos earth.
Don't get too hung-up on "earth"/"ground". All it means is the structure of the bike is attached to battery "pos". DC electrics work exactly the same whether the bike's attached to battery "pos" or battery "neg".

In the case of the (any) e.i. 'box', they have one wire for connecting to battery "pos" and another for connecting to battery "neg" (Red and White respectively on B-B and Pazon), one or other through the bike's switches; no e.i. box "earths" through its mounting. Btw, on your bike, for long-term reliability, the e.i. box Red wire and the "pos" wire from the last coil in the "series" should both be connected to battery "pos", not to some other bit of bike.
 

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