TT600 ignition coil plug cap removal problem

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Mike

Member
I'm trying to change the spark plugs on a TT600; three of the four plug cap coil pack thingies came out of their homes in the cam cover, but the fourth one refused to move. Penetrating oil was duly administered, and the whole thing left for a few hours, after which it appeared to turn. When it 'loosened' I tried to pull it out, but the top sheared off.
Anyone any experience of this, and is there an easy (ho ho!) way to remove it without damaging the engine cases?
 

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mike that sucks ! have you tried pointed pliers or a big self tapping screw and some mole grips !
 
Try some GOOD penetrating oil (not WD-40) and let it sit 24 hours.

Then warm the metal around the plug.

Screw a self-tapping screw down the center....not so large that it will expand and press against the metal wall, but just large enough to get a good "bite" on the plug. Slowly and evenly pull up on the screw.

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Thanks for that guys, yes I've tried the pliers route, but I just cant get any purchase on it. I've filled the hole with a not wd40 penetrating oil and left it 24 hours, I've tapped a 10mm thread down the centre and screwed a bolt in, against a few washers as an extractor, but the centre is plastic and the thread just disintegrates.
NExt is to try a longer bolt to see if that gets any bite.
Two of the others that came out are split; if it split and got water in would it swell and jam against the cylinder head recess? or arc across and do similar antisocial doings?
 
Tapped threads may not give you the bite. I was thinking a self-threading screw with nice "teeth" might work better.

The other thought would be to use a small precision screwdriver and tap (pound) it in around the sides and try to break it up.

Lastly, burn the darned thing, melting it until it turns to charcoal that can then be chipped out.
 
Yeah but I thought I'd try something a bit more delicate before I make with the weapons of mass destruction!! It always makes me a bit twitchy when I have to work closely to aluminium castings (especially at Triumph prices!). I think I've decided to try a longer bolt, and then a large coach screw (as used to attach spurs to fence posts) before I get really nasty.
 
can you lay your hands on an appropriate sized 'eazyout'.
Not sure if thats what you call them over there,basically they are a tapered point left-hand threaded bolt.
 
As the fitment is not threaded an easiout is pointless. I have wound a 8mm bolt down the middle, and applied leverage; all that happened was the thread stripped (look on the bright side mate, you've got a few less bits of pplastic to remove!!! Yaay!). My next step is to use a bigger bolt and repeat the process. The triumph dealer tells me the cam cover is very thin aluminium, so be very careful when I'm bludgeoning it - sort of beat the crap out of it gently, like - ho-hum, try again.
 
An "Easy out" may still work even without threads because they are tapered. The more you turn it, the better "bite" it gets. If you could just break it loose by turning it, it should pull out.

Posted with TapaTalk
 
drill it out to nearly the full diameter then pry the sides in.
Basically get it tomorrow collapse on itself ?

...

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 4
 
Keep the suggestions coming guys - every little helps.
I'm now down to the level of the cam cover to head joint - by using a large (i.e. fence posts to concrete repair spur sized) screw to break the innner, and then prising that out. The main complication is that the insides are plastic and windings of fine copper wire, so I wind the screwq in some way, and then it stops biting and just revolves. At the point I prise it out, and the threads are filled with copper wire (mainly) and bits of plastic. This is both boring and annoying.
I have reached the point where I can't really see what I'm doing, and as I don't want to shell out for a new cam cover I'll probably whip it off so I can better see and access the work.
I'll keep you posted (unless they put the jacket back on, when I'll have to get nurse to do the typing!)
 
Ok guys, I'm down to the cam cover gasket level. I've removed all the shrapnel from the hole, and as the engine is canted forwards in the frame, and the hole is on the far left I can no longer see to work, so I've made the decision to remove the cam cover. This should give me enough room to get the last couple of inches of rubbish out of the hole, as long as I keep most of it out of the engine.
More later.
 
I've cleared the debris off and loosened the cam cover. Having freed it from its gaskets I now find there seems to be only just not enough clearance to get it off. Of course the handbook covers this by saying "remove the cam cover" Aaargh! Don't you just hate it when that happens. There must be some angle I haven't tried so I'll persevere.
Any more clues?
 
I went out yesterday with the club on a charity run, but had ten minutes to spare before I went and the cover came straight off. Miracles on a Sunday, whatever next? Back from the run I managed to get most of the rest out, until it turned freely, and then nothing would screw into it. I drilled obliquely into it and put a self tapping screw in to pull it out, but my wife completed the job as she's got smaller hands than me.
Then I taped a piece of hosepipe to the end of the hoover tube and sucked up most of the debris before removing the protective rag from across the cams. Sucked out the plug hole and swapped the plug. The old one was a bit loose, so that probably helped cause the problem.
Anyway thanks for your help guys.
 
This is the plug from the offending cylinder, seems to have been suffering a bit of leakage from the cylinder.plug.jpgshrapnel.jpgclean head.jpgAnd then there's a collection of some of the shrapnel we got out of the hole before we hoovered it, followed by a picture of the nice clean hole with the nice shiny new plug in the bottom. Now all I have to do is get hold of a new cam box gasket set and sling it all back together (that is rebuild it carefully ahem!)
 
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