Good start on this bike, i will be watching. I love to see new life brought back into old antique Triumphs!
T-120 Old Mans Parts Bike Build
- Thread starter rastus52new
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rastus52new
Member
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Thanks for posting the photos. Obviously not a Windtone, but very similar to another Japanese horn type often recommended in forums as replacements - Nikko YP and SP.
First pic, upside-down lettering, says "MITSUBA" (more completely: US - Mitsuba - Japan). That doesn't tell me much, but I don't have anywhere near your level of knowledge.
rastus52new
Member
Good evening all, Working with the 66 tr6sr motor currently, out of the frame. Prior to installation of motor what is the preferred routing of the crankcase vent? Currently it is just a short metal tube protruding out of the case just below the drive sprocket. Do I add tubing and extend to the vent tube along rear fender?
Secondly the three wire stator wire exits the case right beside the vent tube..what's the best protective place for that to run, to the wire harness?? Thanks in advance, Roger
Secondly the three wire stator wire exits the case right beside the vent tube..what's the best protective place for that to run, to the wire harness?? Thanks in advance, Roger
If you leave it, vented oil vapour is supposed to help lubricate the final drive chain. The better built the engine, the more this is a triumph of hope over reality ...
After a ride, some oil will drip from this. Considered much less acceptable in public today than it was sixty-odd years ago ...
When Triumph connected a hose to the protruding metal tube, the hose was routed up the vertical frame tube behind the engine to an E5370 "'T' piece" (which does not always look like a "T"), the oil tank vent was connected to the smaller diameter tube on the T-piece, a third hose was connected to the T-piece, this hose routed along the frame tube under seat, along the "Lifting handle", through a F3058 "Clip" attached to one of the Lifting handle-fender 1/4" bolts and between the fender and the licence plate to end just below the latter.
Pull the cable relatively tight and ziptie it to the timing side frame tube under the engine.
If the three wires have standard 3/16" o.d. bullet terminals, consider replacing them with terminals from a waterproof connector (jetski electrical connector?), the snap connector sleeves that connect bullet terminals are not water or road debris proof, will corrode quickly under the engine.
When selecting the waterproof connector, use one with slim individual wire terminals and allows the terminals to be slipped out of the waterproofing? Reason is, if you need to remove the alternator stator from the engine, you want to avoid having to cut the terminals off the wires(?) which would shorten the wires, prevent them connecting to the harness wires.
There are no Japanese parts on classic Triumphs.
The best thing to do, if you are not after a 100-point / concourse restoration, is to run a rubber hose to a point behind the sidecover to the largest catch bottle you can fit. Preferrably a clear bottle, so you can see when in needs emptying.
Nidge62
Member
Iv'e just coming to the end of my 1971 t120 tr6, full engine overhaul al new nuts an bolts
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rastus52new
Member
Thanks Rudie. After a good ride or during is there a chance this thing will just puke out an oil pond under the bike? or just simple drips? Drips are ok with me but ice skating on a slick is a no go.If you leave it, vented oil vapour is supposed to help lubricate the final drive chain. The better built the engine, the more this is a triumph of hope over reality ...
After a ride, some oil will drip from this. Considered much less acceptable in public today than it was sixty-odd years ago ...
When Triumph connected a hose to the protruding metal tube, the hose was routed up the vertical frame tube behind the engine to an E5370 "'T' piece" (which does not always look like a "T"), the oil tank vent was connected to the smaller diameter tube on the T-piece, a third hose was connected to the T-piece, this hose routed along the frame tube under seat, along the "Lifting handle", through a F3058 "Clip" attached to one of the Lifting handle-fender 1/4" bolts and between the fender and the licence plate to end just below the latter.
Pull the cable relatively tight and ziptie it to the timing side frame tube under the engine.
If the three wires have standard 3/16" o.d. bullet terminals, consider replacing them with terminals from a waterproof connector (jetski electrical connector?), the snap connector sleeves that connect bullet terminals are not water or road debris proof, will corrode quickly under the engine.
When selecting the waterproof connector, use one with slim individual wire terminals and allows the terminals to be slipped out of the waterproofing? Reason is, if you need to remove the alternator stator from the engine, you want to avoid having to cut the terminals off the wires(?) which would shorten the wires, prevent them connecting to the harness wires.
During a ride, no one can see the road surface; however, I suspect no "pond" as the inlet camshaft is high in the crankcase.
Stopped, varies ime.
Do not know why, maybe inlet cam and rotary valve have to be in a certain orientation either to retain any oil that drains down after the engine stops, or allow it to dribble out?If you do not want to fit a hose on the spigot, you might just have to wait and see what your bike does; however, if you decide later you do want to fit a hose on the spigot, ime it is very difficult to fit the hose with the engine in the frame.
rastus52new
Member
Thanks Good food for thought, I think I'll fit a hose now before engine install.During a ride, no one can see the road surface; however, I suspect no "pond" as the inlet camshaft is high in the crankcase.
Stopped, varies ime.
If you do not want to fit a hose on the spigot, you might just have to wait and see what your bike does; however, if you decide later you do want to fit a hose on the spigot, ime it is very difficult to fit the hose with the engine in the frame.
