My Triumph America has a 12mm allen bolt on the right and 19mm on the left plus 2 allen pinch bolts on each side. Recently the shop replaced my front tyre and did them all up so tight I had to use an extension bar to undo them. This I feel is un-necessary, especially the pinch bolts as they could easily strip. Not having a manual yet can someone tell me the correct procedure, in order of removing the front wheel. I have the right allen key for the pinch bolts and bought a 12 and 19mm half inch drive allen key. My bikes of old had totally different axle arrangements. Also what is the best way to get a workshop manual in Australia?
Removing front wheel
- Thread starter Richard45
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devo
hairy old fart
Gidday Richard
Your right,you shouldnt have to use that sort of leverage to undo them,I would be letting that shop know I was not impressed.
Loosen the pinch bolts on the side of the 12mm allen socket only then back of that allen nut .
Once that is loose you can back of the pinch bolts on the other side and tap the axle out in that direction.The 19mm allen head, is in fact, the end of the axle shaft.
Before you drop it all out,make a note of the position of the speedo sender and cable in relation to the brake caliper.I suggest a couple of close up pics will help.
Putting it all back together is a bit of a juggling act,if the bike is up on a lft,I actually use a small trolley jacj under the wheel to take the weight while I pop it in position,fit the speedo driver in position checking the wee lugs inside are lining up, then slide the axle in stopping before you exit the wheel hub, then slip in the tube spacer before pushing the axle home and installing the 12mm allen nut.
When re-assembling,dont tighten the pinchbolts untill you have torqued up the axle nut, so as the axle can centre in the forks. then you can tighten and torque up the pinch bolts.
If you go here you will find torque settings you will need for reassembly.
https://www.triumphtalk.com/showthread.php/22282-Fork-oil-replacement
Your right,you shouldnt have to use that sort of leverage to undo them,I would be letting that shop know I was not impressed.
Loosen the pinch bolts on the side of the 12mm allen socket only then back of that allen nut .
Once that is loose you can back of the pinch bolts on the other side and tap the axle out in that direction.The 19mm allen head, is in fact, the end of the axle shaft.
Before you drop it all out,make a note of the position of the speedo sender and cable in relation to the brake caliper.I suggest a couple of close up pics will help.
Putting it all back together is a bit of a juggling act,if the bike is up on a lft,I actually use a small trolley jacj under the wheel to take the weight while I pop it in position,fit the speedo driver in position checking the wee lugs inside are lining up, then slide the axle in stopping before you exit the wheel hub, then slip in the tube spacer before pushing the axle home and installing the 12mm allen nut.
When re-assembling,dont tighten the pinchbolts untill you have torqued up the axle nut, so as the axle can centre in the forks. then you can tighten and torque up the pinch bolts.
If you go here you will find torque settings you will need for reassembly.
https://www.triumphtalk.com/showthread.php/22282-Fork-oil-replacement
Thanks Devo, I followed your advice and removed and replaced my wheel just for fun. It all worked as you said but I have to have the spacer in the right side of the wheel rather than slip it in as the axle goes through. I only have a cheap bendy type torque wrench and 40 on it seemed bloody tight so I went to about 30 which was tighter than I would have normally done it. I must get a good one or at least calibrate mine against a good one. Also the lugs on the speedo drive seemed hard to line up but the speedo works ok.
I am glad you were successful. 
Just for the sake of more info, the 24mm front spindle/axle nut for the Bonneville calls for 44 foot pounds.
I have a snap/break type of torque wrench and 44 FP didn't feel like it was too much.
That's what the Haynes book says to do so that's what I did.
You're a little light with 30 FP (and it's probably OK), but I would check it once in a while if you leave at that setting.
You don't want to experience that Kenny Rogers song, "You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel."
I have a snap/break type of torque wrench and 44 FP didn't feel like it was too much.
That's what the Haynes book says to do so that's what I did.
You're a little light with 30 FP (and it's probably OK), but I would check it once in a while if you leave at that setting.
You don't want to experience that Kenny Rogers song, "You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel."
Just for the sake of more info, the 24mm front spindle/axle nut for the Bonneville calls for 44 foot pounds.
I have a snap/break type of torque wrench and 44 FP didn't feel like it was too much.
That's what the Haynes book says to do so that's what I did.
You're a little light with 30 FP (and it's probably OK), but I would check it once in a while if you leave at that setting.
You don't want to experience that Kenny Rogers song, "You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel."
LOL I haven't heard that in a long time.
Thanks Rocky, My America has a 19mm nut on the left and 12mm on the right. As the 19 screws into the 12 I would think that I hold either one with a socket and tighten the other to 44, as you say. Do you think it makes any difference which side I hold when I tighten it. (That's a physics problem) At the stage of doing up the axle I'm told the 4 pinch bolts should be loose so the axle centres. When the axle is tight then I tighten each sides pinch bolts a little at a time. My info says to tighten the pinch bolts to 15 foot pounds. With an ordinary allen key how would I do that? I think I should buy an allen key on a half inch drive to fit to my el cheapo torque wrench. If I strip the bastard I'm up for some big bikkies. In my mechanical days in the 60s a torque wrench (we called them tension wrenches) were a rarity and we learned how to do things up by feel and personally I was never proved wrong. The only time I used (borrowed) a torque wrench was for tightening heads down and various engine components. Have you ever tried to take the wheel off your car with the spanner supplied by the maker after the shop has tightened the bastard up with their air tool. You'll never do it. You can only sit on the side of the road and wait for some big tough bikie to come and help.
I always apply the torque to the nut or bolt I am tightening.
I have a set of socket Allen keys and fit the one I need to an "inch pound" snap/break torque wrench when I only need torque in the lower numbers.
It might be worth investing is a similar set, but you may be able to find the one you need as a single.
But if you don't have those you will have to go by guess. As you said, that will be harder to do with an ordinary key. If it feels tight, it probably is - but don't overdo it.
Knock on wood, I haven't had a car flat tire in many years, but years ago I went to an auto parts store and bought a proper wheel wrench and carried it with me.
I have a set of socket Allen keys and fit the one I need to an "inch pound" snap/break torque wrench when I only need torque in the lower numbers.
It might be worth investing is a similar set, but you may be able to find the one you need as a single.
But if you don't have those you will have to go by guess. As you said, that will be harder to do with an ordinary key. If it feels tight, it probably is - but don't overdo it.
Knock on wood, I haven't had a car flat tire in many years, but years ago I went to an auto parts store and bought a proper wheel wrench and carried it with me.
Thanks Rocky, Not too sure what you mean. I have 2 socket allen keys (half inch drive) so I hold one with a half inch handle and torque the other to x lbs. My old torque wrench does not click but it is a bendy bar just over a foot long with a lbs scale marked on it so you can see how far it bends. I presume your snap/break means the type you set to the foot pounds and it clicks out when you reach the set torque. Must get one of those. Went for a great ride today with a friend who is an experienced rider. My front wheel stayed with me all the way. Must have it tight enough.
Glad the wheel stayed with you and that you had a good ride.
I used one of those torsion bar torque wrench's for a long time and I still have it, but it doesn't get any use now that I have the better break/click type - which is used as you describe.
My post was mostly about the Allen pinch bolts.
Sounds like you're doing fine with torqueing the spindle/axle.
Glad you had a good ride.
I think you will be fine. Just check the torque once in a while to make sure.
